- 670
- West Virginia
- xWARMACHINE84x
Confirming round #2
So the Z car is turbo stock.
For you tuners, what is the optimum way to build PP numbers?
I did exhaust, manifold, intake, anti lag, intercooler.
But watching a little of the replay I saw that the fastest Z had a different turbo. Is it optimal to just go big turbo?
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I’m curious the same, I tuned power adders to get 640 pp, assuming we can tune way above and then use power restrictor too keep torq curve.
The parts noted are correct. All drivers must use the sequential racing trans.Can I get a clarification that ALL of these mods MUST be installed on ALL cars?
Required Parts List (All parts below must be installed as noted/if available)
-Power Restrictor
-Ballast
-Fully Customizable LSD
-Racing Brake Kit (Slotted ONLY)
-Racing Brake Pads
-Brake Balance Controller
-Full Customizable Suspension
-Fully Adjustable Transmission
-Racing Clutch Kit
-Racing Hard Tire Compound
-Racing Exhaust System (may apply Sports or Semi-Racing for desired sound)
Also on the transmissions…I have the option of fully customizable manual and fully customizable racing. The latter being sequential racing. Which are we supposed to use? Sequential adds 10pp.
Clarified in 1st post. All drivers had the correct trans installed.So the Fully Customizable Racing Transmission.
NOT the Fully Customizable Manual Transmission.
Your description is sort of grey. It just says Fully Adjustable Transmission. The racing adds 10pp (in my car) and would affect your tuning plans.
If you are playing around PP/power, you can almost accuratly use the acceleration stats on the tuning page, ignore shifting revs at this point.For you tuners, what is the optimum way to build PP numbers?
He was packing more hp...430 to be exact. When you place less df at front and more at the rear, the pp value decreases, affording room for more hp. Also, looking at his tune vs your tune, he only added 37kg to his car to reach weight vs 176 for you. Both of you placed this weight at the rear. I imagine the difference in weight and its placement at the rear had a different overall pp effect. When placed at the rear pp goes up. He placed less weight resulting in less pp hit, whereas your 176kg hit you harder. Definitely consider your parts list. I tey to build just whats needed to hit the spec windows, then dial in from there. Got a month to the next one.Just watching some replays now and the fastest Z has a ton more speed on acceleration and of course hits 5-7mph faster on the straight. It hits nearly 2.0 bar on the boost gauge and mine only hits 1.
This is making me rethink my parts list for sure.
50/50 isnt necessarily be the best weight distribution, this depends on the whole setup, tyres have a traction potential that needs enough weight to make them work instead of spin, this weight needs to be at a very certain spot depending on the torque and also the height of the center of mass (which the game doesnt allow to change nor gives any info about); lower center of mass means a bias towards the rear, higher center of mass means bias to the front. This is only for acceleration.Yeah I was looking at my options. I watched the replay and he has the sport muffler and the big turbo. So I will build around those parts. I see how big a difference it makes for sure. I was trying to hit the magical 50/50 balance which is why I added that much. Had no idea it was going to kill me in the end
Yeah, that can all go back to what car you chose to start with. If you prefer 50/50 you should’ve picked a car with a natural weight bias set to that. Like a BMW or something mid/rear engine. You’ll burn pp trying to get a Camaro or Mustang to mimic that feeling you’re looking for. The only way around it is through the suspension, not the weight. You can chase your tail for hours if you start moving weight around. Then swapping up aero and engine packages. Then realize that the car you’ve picked just doesn’t fit your style. Another thing is you can’t freak out because another car is out performing you at one particular track. You may go somewhere different and realize that the car you’ve chosen suddenly has an advantage at that venue. And it’s the same way with really fast drivers. They’ll start loosing pp and become human by the end.50/50 isnt necessarily be the best weight distribution, this depends on the whole setup, tyres have a traction potential that needs enough weight to make them work instead of spin, this weight needs to be at a very certain spot depending on the torque and also the height of the center of mass (which the game doesnt allow to change nor gives any info about); lower center of mass means a bias towards the rear, higher center of mass means bias to the front. This is only for acceleration.
Considering cornering and being fast in general, include into weight distribution would be brake potential and aero settings, both again also influenced by suspension settings.
I lack the math to calculate all these things, so I dont bother looking up any way to calculate this stuff, but for those interested enough I am sure there are sources available - I instead try to setup by gutfeeling and personal prefence until the car does fit my habbits.
You will have to go and buy a stall of cars. Buy like 6. Then go to livery editor and label them a, b, c, so forth. Then start with bolt ons. Use the other cars for internal engine combos. It’ll save you time and you can compare one to other more easily. Paint one red, one blue, one yellow. Whatever you need to do. Then go to TT so you can keep record of your times.I’m not sweating the performance of other types of cars. Just the other car just like mine I have a subpar build which is why I’m losing performance. So I’m trying to figure out the optimal way to build PP in this particular car.
I signed in quickly to say the sport muffler is because I prefer the sound, and the big turbo is to reduce low RPM torque to reduce wheel spin on corner exits. If you have any other questions, PM me on PSN. I don't like coming here anymore and only read this thread while signed out. Which I'm going to do right now after this post. 👍Yeah I was looking at my options. I watched the replay and he has the sport muffler and the big turbo. So I will build around those parts. I see how big a difference it makes for sure. I was trying to hit the magical 50/50 balance which is why I added that much. Had no idea it was going to kill me in the end
So basically you found the more torque, the faster you are. With these cars being so low on horsepower, I see no need for a lot of downforce. They’re tight as it is. You start cranking that rear wing up and it’s just going to tighten you up. Then make a bunch of drag that will slow you down. Mechanical grip is the way to go. You have low hp on a racing hard. The grip is there, you just have to find it through the suspension. Probably at this hp we should be on a sport medium, maybe even a hard. I know I’ve fought tight from the center off more often than anything else with the Camaro.Did some basic testing tonight. Big turbo/sport muffler. No other power mods. Stg 1 weight reduction. Picked up 16hp and 36lb/ft. Took about .5 off my time. Gave me about 6mph top speed before bus stop.
For you to get 35hp more you must be running much lower downforce. Or have things like big bore etc. I tried a bunch of combos of power mods like that and honestly the big turbo was always better. Even when various combos of other mods were used (with stock turbo) and they yielded more power or torque, my top speed and times were worse.
This game is weird.
Big turbo and more detuned it is.
I still like having the 50/50 balance. It rotates and handles better but bigger power numbers and the stopwatch doesn’t lie.