JogoAsobi
Premium
- 2,578
Edit:
It can not be swapped easily.............
Christiaan, thanks much for the info, very appreciated.
Edit:
It can not be swapped easily.............
I'll try some with and without. I believe I've just left it on default (100) for now. However it may not matter in my case. Since as I mentioned in the video, CSP/ABS rumble isn't working for me since I have the pedals connected direct USB to the PC, and in the latest driver/firmware this is only available when pedals are connected to the wheel (it worked before.) As far as other wheel rumble effects, I do not even know what games implement these in code (if any?) Maybe pCARS since the wheel lights and other features work; I'll check...Mike I can see mods coming for the CSW.
A compatible QR adapter is all that is needed to add "branded rims" and is bound to appear. I've already seen one on ebay which looks nearly identical.
However I wonder if the "data" port on the wheel allows Fanatec to do their own dash very similar to the "Monsta" but also include Fanatec controls for wheel functions? Well Thomas?
What are the thoughts of testers on using the BMW rim with and without "rumble".
I ask just to get an impression of how a branded wheel would compare to the BMW.
Mike I can see mods coming for the CSW.
A compatible QR adapter is all that is needed to add "branded rims" and is bound to appear. I've already seen one on ebay which looks nearly identical.
This is probably not going to happen. I've got an impression reading some reviews that you need fanatec wheel connected to get force feedback. If you take it off, it also cuts the force feedback. I of course may be wrong and misunderstood something, but maybe someone could confirm or test it out.
This is probably not going to happen. I've got an impression reading some reviews that you need fanatec wheel connected to get force feedback. If you take it off, it also cuts the force feedback. I of course may be wrong and misunderstood something, but maybe someone could confirm or test it out.
You didn't misunderstood. The rims have their own electronics and firmware. If the base can not communicate with the firmware in the wheel, the base will basically go in a sort of hybernate mode and won't function until a compatible wheel is attached.
So basically Fanatec have protected their CSW product, that's clever...
^^^
never bet against the modding community. Never. Ever.
lemansfanaticWell if modders were so smart you'd think they would have been able to figure out how to make one of the worlds best selling wheels (G25) to work on an Xbox 360's XID protocol by now... (I know there is an adapter out there but it doesnt work). So they do have their limmitations.
the_greezeHere's one for you guys: is the hole mounting layout the same on the CSW as the CSR-E? I'm talking about the holes in the bottom of the wheelbase (laid out in a triangle pattern) not the angled clamp-thingy.![]()
As far as i am aware of this is the same. Though i do not own a CSR E to compare.
yes, Thomas said it was exactly the same dimensions. You can find a schematic with the exact dimensions on Thomas' wheelsite, sorry I dont have the link but a quick googlesearch will help you
Indeed 16 bit, but with the difference that the T500 has a motor mounted sensor and the CSW like the CSR Elite a steering column mounted one. Thus it is more precise as it uses the rim's position and not the motor's position as this turns constantly to produce rumble.
RaitzigerAlso this means that centering is more accurate as it does make any difference even if gears have slack or not in them.
JogoAsobiLogi,
Did the RC shock addition to the CSP V.2 Brake do away with the foam slug and metal spacer the V1's used that could be swapped out for Tuning Kit replacements for further stiffening?
No it did not. This has remained the same as far as I can tell 25mm metal and 25mm foam inserts are still used when I took that apart just now.
JogoAsobiHmm, the V.1 tuning kit came with 24MM and 30MM metal rods, I went with 30MM to shorten the throw on mine. One foam slug in tuning kit was of same length but much stiffer (one I used), and the other was slightly longer and thinner than the stock one.
Forgot to ask this as well, I know the clutch mechanism is different to offer more realistic feel, but are the spring dimensions used in V.2s the same as the V.1s?
....and how different are the dimensions of the RC spring you substituted on the V.2s with the brake spring from the V.1s.?
Just trying to figure what I can and cannot migrate to the V.2s because I am not excited about buying another tuning kit down the road in addition to CSP V.2s. I was not happy with the stock CSP pedal's resistance and the tuning kit parts really improved them for me.
Huh? I do not get your question on the RC Spring dimension? I put those measurements in the comment section of my video. The springs that I bought are from an RC Shop and do not come out of a tuning kit at all.