DiRT Rally 2.0 General Discussion

[GTMajarcus]

Softlock automatically sets the lock of each car to the correct one for the specific car. R5's will use 540, Grp A 720, some older cars 900 etc.
This requires that you set your wheel to 900 in your driver and have Steering Saturation set at 100.

An issue I’ve been finding is that Soft Lock doesn’t seem to be working at times. In Dirt Rally leaving it on worked for all the cars I used, while in Dirt Rally 2, for some cars the steering feels way too lose, to the point of almost not being able to get around corners.
I’ve set saturation to 60 as @MarcoM suggested previously and that seemed to do the trick well enough.

 

[PzR Slim]

An issue I’ve been finding is that Soft Lock doesn’t seem to be working at times. In Dirt Rally leaving it on worked for all the cars I used, while in Dirt Rally 2, for some cars the steering feels way too lose, to the point of almost not being able to get around corners.
I’ve set saturation to 60 as @MarcoM suggested previously and that seemed to do the trick well enough.

A simple way to test this is just to come to a stop and then move the steering wheel lock to lock. Compare what wheel rotation you get in game to what you would get with the real car. If it's the same and but feels loose then that's just what that car is like to drive for real. Guess then it's a decision for each person if they want a more realistic or more manageable experience.

 

[bogani]

A simple way to test this is just to come to a stop and then move the steering wheel lock to lock. Compare what wheel rotation you get in game to what you would get with the real car. If it's the same and but feels loose then that's just what that car is like to drive for real. Guess then it's a decision for each person if they want a more realistic or more manageable experience.

If you are used to 540 and suddenly pop in a car with 900 it will feel extremely unresponsive in comparison. I'm guessing that is what you feel when saying "loose"?

 

[PzR Slim]

If you are used to 540 and suddenly pop in a car with 900 it will feel extremely unresponsive in comparison. I'm guessing that is what you feel when saying "loose"?

I was quoting @GTMajarcus who said it felt loose. Obviously going from 540 to 900 is going to feel unresponsive. My point was that if it's the same in game as in the real world then it's not wrong. However, it's up to each of us individual if they want it to be correct or more manageable.

 

[MarcoM]

With loose I mean that you have to turn more than you expect (both from your feeling and from what you see the steering wheel on screen is doing).

In Assetto Corsa and PC2 this is taken care of automatically. I thought it was the same in DR1. I never have fiddled with Softlock in DR1. Perhaps it was off all the time.

 

[tunaphis]

After 12 hours no racenet problems (ps4 pro) but the chopping and reversal of stages is a major letdown imo.The long stages are very well done but after that it's all downhill.Knowing this I'm still undecided about spending more on dlc.
Using 4g phone as hotspot.

 

[fernandito]

Let us know if there is a firmware update plz. Btw, I really liked the game with the controller, then I hooked up my t300 and loved it.

Edit" I know I could just google it but your already doing that right? lol.

 

[Scaff]

I loaded this up a few days ago. It helps, but it certainly doesn't fix the lack of FFB.

 

[Pfei]

I loaded this up a few days ago. It helps, but it certainly doesn't fix the lack of FFB.

That firmware update is a month old. That's why it doesn't fix anything.

 

[fernandito]

I loaded this up a few days ago. It helps, but it certainly doesn't fix the lack of FFB.

yep I have finished trying this new firmware and the ffb is meh when it comes to road feel. Tyre slip and other effects are ok though, but the lack of road makes it for one big no-no. Oh well back to controller I guess. Much better control and feeling of the car with the xbox1 pad.

BTW, not related to ffb, but did you do what I suggested you some pages back about you not properly calibrating your wheel at 1080º?, I saw your video and you stopped at 95% in the first step/full lock reach, which means you didn't pass the soft lock introduced some firmwares back. You have to pass it to reach full 1080º.

 

[Pfei]

Got the PS4 version so I can have some leaderboard battles with a mate, but on my standard PS4 the graphics are incredibly blurry. Almost looks cell-shaded.

Massive pity - should have gone for the Xbox One X version...

Maybe Codies can optimise and improve it in a patch?

Sorry, I just COULD NOT RESIST doing this:

Being serious now, though. Does it really look that bad on PS4 and XBox One?

 

[MarcoM]

I think it looks pretty awesome and that is on a standard slimline ps4.

 

[Scaff]

yep I have finished trying this new firmware and the ffb is meh when it comes to road feel. Tyre slip and other effects are ok though, but the lack of road makes it for one big no-no. Oh well back to controller I guess. Much better control and feeling of the car with the xbox1 pad.

BTW, not related to ffb, but did you do what I suggested you some pages back about you not properly calibrating your wheel at 1080º?, I saw your video and you stopped at 95% in the first step/full lock reach, which means you didn't pass the soft lock introduced some firmwares back. You have to pass it to reach full 1080º.

I didn't stop at 95%, that's as far as it goes when calibrating.

 

[fernandito]

^You didn't pass the soft lock trust me. Do it. You are not properly calibrating your wheel at 1080º. I have same wheel.

 

[Scaff]

^You didn't pass the soft lock trust me. Do it. You are not properly calibrating your wheel at 1080º. I have same wheel.

Ah, will give that a go and 'ease' it past the softlock

 

[MagpieRacer]

There's no soft lock while calibrating?

 

[JeffKill]

Got to try it out for a few hours last night. The physics are very familiar after playing Dirt Rally so much, but definitely improved. I'll be spending a lot of time with DR2.

 

[GTMajarcus]

A simple way to test this is just to come to a stop and then move the steering wheel lock to lock. Compare what wheel rotation you get in game to what you would get with the real car. If it's the same and but feels loose then that's just what that car is like to drive for real. Guess then it's a decision for each person if they want a more realistic or more manageable experience.

After reading your post I checked the wheel using the method you described. I was using the Lancia Fulvia, had steering saturation set to 100 and Soft Lock On.
To get the wheel on the screen to turn to 90 degrees (full lock) I had to turn my wheel to approx 135 degrees. I did not have this issue with Dirt Rally.
I then put steering saturation to 60, did the same test, and this time the degree of rotation of the wheel on the screen matched my own wheel.
Soft Lock definitely does not seem to be working the same as it did on Dirt Rally.

 

[paulpg87]

Sorry, I just COULD NOT RESIST doing this:

View attachment 802679

Being serious now, though. Does it really look that bad on PS4 and XBox One?

Tried on a base PS4, 4k TV. It looks pretty outdated. Surely not even close to the footage released. I remember dirt1 being better but there was a lot less processing power used for environment and surface. However is just personal taste in considering It good or bad. Surely you can't say wow

 

[tbtstt]

Seems like we might have confirmation of the return of kit cars...

 

[fernandito]

Ah, will give that a go and 'ease' it past the softlock

You can also set it to 900º and it will give you a full 100% lock (hard lock) read in that screen when calibrating. Otherwise if you like me prefer1080º (to cover entire car rosters in games like assetto and project cars, games that adjust each car rotation on the fly for you), then overcome that soft lock until you reach the hard one and it reads 100% (1080º). I recommend doing this step anti-clock wise on this wheel.

There's no soft lock while calibrating?

Thrustmaster added a soft-lock on firmware 25 (a year and a half or two back) for the 1080º setting. You have to pass a tiny soft lock beofre reaching full 1080º and the hard lock, otherwise you stay at 1040º (this is the old chocie for classic cars such as the F40), and badly calibrated with the subsequent 40º offset. TM explanation to this was "It is to protect the wheel hard locks"

 

[torque99]

delete

 

[PzR Slim]

After reading your post I checked the wheel using the method you described. I was using the Lancia Fulvia, had steering saturation set to 100 and Soft Lock On.
To get the wheel on the screen to turn to 90 degrees (full lock) I had to turn my wheel to approx 135 degrees. I did not have this issue with Dirt Rally.
I then put steering saturation to 60, did the same test, and this time the degree of rotation of the wheel on the screen matched my own wheel.
Soft Lock definitely does not seem to be working the same as it did on Dirt Rally.

Sorry, I meant the wheels of the car not it's steering wheel. I turn the steering wheel off in settings so have no idea what it is doing.

 

[Kinna39]

Tried on a base PS4, 4k TV. It looks pretty outdated. Surely not even close to the footage released. I remember dirt1 being better but there was a lot less processing power used for environment and surface. However is just personal taste in considering It good or bad. Surely you can't say wow

Yeah agreed - I was close to attempting a return to swap it for the xbox version (as I have a One X) but opted not to so I can compare times with a mate on PS4... that's more important to me than the fidelity of graphics.

 

[MagpieRacer]

 

[MarcoM]

After reading your post I checked the wheel using the method you described. I was using the Lancia Fulvia, had steering saturation set to 100 and Soft Lock On.
To get the wheel on the screen to turn to 90 degrees (full lock) I had to turn my wheel to approx 135 degrees. I did not have this issue with Dirt Rally.
I then put steering saturation to 60, did the same test, and this time the degree of rotation of the wheel on the screen matched my own wheel.
Soft Lock definitely does not seem to be working the same as it did on Dirt Rally.

That’s why I switched softlock OFF. And set saturation to 60. Ik looks good and more importantly it feels like it should.

 

[GTMajarcus]

That’s why I switched softlock OFF. And set saturation to 60. Ik looks good and more importantly it feels like it should.

Same. I took your advice in a previous post and turned saturation to 60. I’ll keave it there until I hear Soft Lock is fixed, or maybe it will remain like that. Either way saturation at 60 does the trick.

 

[GTMajarcus]

Sorry, I meant the wheels of the car not it's steering wheel. I turn the steering wheel off in settings so have no idea what it is doing.

No worries. What I thought you meant actually seems like a good way to test the steering inputs to see if they line up with how they should be with the car, so it was a helpful post either way.

 

[speedy10]

Ok... so I decided and go for this new game. I just ran two career races (with lancia) and the feelings are... strange.. I could not figure out a good FFB configuration, since I using g29 wheel. The game looks good, it s a shame that new content will be available on paid dlc.
Can someone share a good FFB config? I m running the game on ps4.

 

[Sertsa]

Hi all. I was and kind of still am excited for this game, but I'm undecided on getting it in the near future. I'm having a general principle objection to $60 (for XBox) not being enough to get Sweden and Monaco stages, especially as the snow/ice rallies are my favorites. I'm also concerned about the online connection for career mode--especially as my connection for games isn't that great--and how much the game will work when the servers are shut down (GT5 and 6 might make me paranoid for that, as the original DIRT still has the online events. I wonder if they'll continue).

So I guess this isn't much of a discussion post, but I wanted to vent somewhere. I'm sure I'll get this game at some point, but for now I'll try holding out.