Fanatec CSW/CSR Elite Modders Thread *UPDATE February 2014*

  • Thread starter eKretz
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When I had my Elite, there was a time when I upgraded my firmware and didnt know I had the damper set to -3. I would check the wheel settings first, turn off, then turn each stting up at a time, testing in between to see which one is making the ffb feel grainy.
 
A bit bereft of time atm, but trying to keep in touch with this thread. I have not found that DRI adds grain, though I have only ever used it in testing, and not as a staple with any of my presets. I do wonder about how many parameters these wheels take into account with their environments, either by design or otherwise. I had a situation where I was driving along adjusting on the fly. At one point when I thought I was adjusting somthing else I found that I was accidentally changing SHO, which I would usually have on zero. Well, the weird thing was that suddenly the feeling of damper changed dramatically. I tried, but could not reproduce the phenomenon. It just seems somtimes that there is a balancing of factors that produce seemingly unique results. So, what factors should come in to play, and have others come across oddities? Are these wheels behaving differently based not purely on the game code and the raw numbers in their settings? How context sensitive are they? Is there more interplay with various parameters than we would expect? So again, what SHOULD matter, and what seems to also matter in our experiences?
 
Yeah, when I had my Elite I noticed that as well, it seems as though some of the settings affect each other a bit. And on the DRI thing, sometimes I would get the grainy feeling and sometimes not. It almost seems like even sometimes adjusting DRI to 1 would make it grainy but then if I would change it back and forth to 0 sometimes it would feel slightly different, and sometimes almost go away.

I guess it makes sense in a way, you have to remember that all these settings are still only being applied to the electronics that are controlling the same 2 motors, so it would make sense that they might overlap some.
 
My understanding of the grainy feeling some time and some time not is that it depends how the 2 motors are aligned with each other, some time the graininess is amplified some times it cancelled each other. as there is slight slipping of the belt the alignement changes.
 
I doubt that Theory, I realize that it is not yours per se.

100% correct, this my understanding of an explanation I got, since it is coming and going it made some sense to me.
The graininess was a little disturbing to me when I got my wheel, as I did not know if it was supposed to be there more than I was really concerned by it. The reviewers were so lyrical on how smooth the wheel was, I even read smooth as butter, so any graininess, even very little was a surprise.
I have had my wheel 3 month now, and it is a fantastic wheel, I highly recommend it, but noobe should be aware of the slight graininess that come and go in intensity, even it you don't touch any adjustment.
Thank you for your research, if someone can get to the bottom of this it is probably you.👍
 
Edit: Nevermind. I'm not getting sucked into this again.

eKretz, keep up the good work. :)

Cote Dazur, I hope you can use your wheel again soon.
 
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Edit: Nevermind. I'm not getting sucked into this again.

eKretz, keep up the good work. :)

Cote Dazur, I hope you can use your wheel again soon.

MR Basher, thank you for your concerns, but I use my wheel every day, spend too much time on it actually, LOL, but loving every minute of it.
Haven't stopped since it got here, I wish everyone could get one.
Even though it is not perfect and could surely be improved, I am using it stock and having a great time.:)
 
Could someone measure the outside and inside diameter of the CSW wheels quick release shaft? I am looking into ordering one, and would like to use one of my quick releases and a spare MOMO alcantara wheel I have rather than buying one of the wheels from fanatec.

Thanks.
 
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I hadn't gone anywhere near a good ol' arcade racing cockpit for many years, but was walking past a cinema a few days ago. I decided to spin the wheel on a Daytona 2 machine and was taken aback by how incredibly free the wheel was when not in use. Is there so little drag, or are they somehow disengaged when not in use? Just made me realise how much better an extremely low drag wheel is/would be as a start point.

Later, I inexplicably had the urge to fire up Daytona at home (rich creamery butter anyone?). In fiddling with settings to find what suited the game I found that I had next to no ffb until I boosted SPR. Basically, SPR acted effectively as a FFB setting. It seems that with so many variables acting on what we get through our wheels, a patient, logical, lateral thinking person might be able to achieve nirvana, while an impetuous, illogical, cogged brained (see what I did there?) person will quickly remove hands from wheel and on to a keyboard. If you know what I mean?

Again, I am struck by how much these wheels observe their environment. I suppose it's the complex equivalent of a game learning the start and end point of the accelerator and brake, but with many more parameters, and in both directions.

Anyway, this Grasshopper looks forward to nirvana.
 
Could someone measure the outside and inside diameter of the CSW wheels quick release shaft? I am looking into ordering one, and would like to use one of my quick releases and a spare MOMO alcantara wheel I have rather than buying one of the wheels from fanatec.

Thanks.

The base's QR shaft measures: O.D. 1.499" (38.07mm) I.D. 1.228" (31.19mm).

However, the base won't function correctly without the Fanatec PCB from the factory wheels.
 
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The base's QR shaft measures: O.D. 1.499" (38.07mm) I.D. 1.228" (31.19mm).

However, the base won't function correctly without the Fanatec PCB from the factory wheels.

Is there not a way to adjust FFB and the other settings with software? Or are they only adjustable from the wheel?

And the only two wheels are the BMW wheel and the F1 wheel correct? There aren't any other companies that make them?
 
Is there not a way to adjust FFB and the other settings with software? Or are they only adjustable from the wheel?

And the only two wheels are the BMW wheel and the F1 wheel correct? There aren't any other companies that make them?

The settings are only adjustable on the wheel, but that doesn't really matter. Fanatec has made it where if you try to use any other wheels except theirs the FFB and other settings on the wheel just wont work. Obviously the wheel itself will turn if you use another wheel but you wont have any FFB.

Yes the only 2 wheels that are compatible are the BMW and formula rim. No other companies make wheels and they never probably will. Fanatec has it setup like that where only their rims will work. Smart play on their part from a business stand point. The only way you can use another rim is if you take the QR and electronics from one of their rims and modify it to work on you own. A fellow iracer did this a while back and I posted some pics of it on page 15. Tried to quote it here but pics wouldn't show up for whatever reason but you can go back to page 15 and check out my post.
 
Not everything in this thread makes sense to me, but all that you have written about here does.... (I think). I am guessing that the stock position of belt on pulley is a safeguard of sorts. ie. If it were to slip a position one way or the other there is buffer of one more groove. The logic behind planing back the belt is I am assuming to largely maintain surface contact, but reduce rigidity and therefore drag. That's how it works in my head anyway.

I can imagine that the low drag that you have achieved would feel great, but may have a downside in the exposure of imperfections. Akin to audiophile headphones for listening vs for scrutinising. Sometimes there are things you just don't want to be aware of when the prime purpose is enjoyment, but I realise that the testing and experimenting stage = scrutiny mode.

Great work as always. I wish I could contribute more on here than the occasional thumbs up and "GO TEAM" chant. Grrr...
 
The belt work is interesting, are you shaving the belts with a grinder while running them on a pulley? I wonder if v-notching the inside of the belt at 90° to the v-grooving and shaving only the outside without shaving the inside would accomplish the same thing for flexibility but give better grip?
 
I wonder what kind of belt the Japanese guy is using here...

img_529073_31594259_6


More pics in his blog (translated to english) here:

http://translate.google.co.uk/trans...&sa=X&ei=je9UUb_OAY3APJrJgagC&ved=0CDQQ7gEwAA
 
It almost looks like some kind of urethane rubber. I forgot to comment on his mod of the motors to try to get cooling airflow through them: I am not sure I like that as it will probably spread brush dust everywhere inside the wheel housing. He should maybe go to a forced air system with a filter to do it better.
 
The stock (red) position of the common 2-Rib belt is in the middle two of the four grooves/sheaves. There is no reason for that. Even if you are not much of a DIY modification person, this one is simple. If you ever open your case, you can relieve the motor pulley tension and move the belt one groove closer to the motor (blue in the photo). This costs nothing. It has no side effect to worry about. Only good can come of it. With the covers off it only takes a couple of minutes. The further inward the load from the belt tension is moved, the more stable and grippy the belt drive will be due to lesser shaft flex. Remember that under high FFB, the belt is pulled harder…which bends the shaft more…which leads to loss of tension…which means you need more belt tension to start out with in the first place. This seems to have been overlooked or underestimated on this device.


But this much, much simpler/cheaper arrangement gives you nearly all of that benefit for practically free.


This thread needs a running list of the easy mods for the first post.

1. Drill out double threads on CSR-E
2. Move belt over 1 rib.

This is great info. It is disappointing that you weren't a beta tester because both of these could have been done by Fanatec for basically no cost. (Obviously the best solution would have been to use smaller pulleys but by beta the tooling would have probably been done. )
 
Very good idea, it would aslo be helpful to include a link to each post. I would add to that list:
1)upgraded motors (all different options)
2)one day hopefully a link to cooling systems being used.
3) tools needed to do this. (power supplies, fish scales, software, etc)
 
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