Fanatec CSW/CSR Elite Modders Thread *UPDATE February 2014*
- Thread starter eKretz
- 3,607 comments
- 606,751 views
- 1,603
- IN
- Eric_J2358
That's the wheel fasteners on the Elite. From factory they have thread against thread in the mounting holes when they should have an outer through hole and inner threaded hole.
Edit: must have posted while RXX was composing.
I'll update the first post soon with some of the condensed info.
Edit: must have posted while RXX was composing.
I'll update the first post soon with some of the condensed info.
- 36
- Sussex
Found these on eBay yesterday:
Motor Water Cooling Jacket - http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_o...1313&_nkw=motor+water+cooling+jacket&_sacat=0
Could probably be combined with a 12v PC water cooling pump and radiator.
What size are the fans in the CSR/SCW ??
Motor Water Cooling Jacket - http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_o...1313&_nkw=motor+water+cooling+jacket&_sacat=0
Could probably be combined with a 12v PC water cooling pump and radiator.
What size are the fans in the CSR/SCW ??
Last edited:
- 4,158
- Ottawa
I had never seen those before, they look like they would be easy to install and water seems to be circulating as if a tube was wrap around the engine.
On using thinner belt, which makes a lots of sense, instead of having to grind the existing one, it would be fun to find one that is manufactured thinner.
Thank you guy's, must be the age, I remember now, I only have the original rim.
Last edited:
- 1,603
- IN
- Eric_J2358
@Cote: Hmm, interesting jacket. I've never seen one like that either. Don't like the fact that there're no o-rings at the ends though. I doubt that you will find any factory made thinner belts unless you were to custom order some. (Not cheap).
@breakndish: I believe they are 80mm fans IIRC.
@ibuycheap: I'm not sure there would be room for a plug-in solution. It's already quite a tight fit with the 2 factory plugs, adding more would be difficult without removing those.
@breakndish: I believe they are 80mm fans IIRC.
@ibuycheap: I'm not sure there would be room for a plug-in solution. It's already quite a tight fit with the 2 factory plugs, adding more would be difficult without removing those.
Last edited:
I strongly disagree. There is plenty of room, the wire to the plugs can be pulled back into the housing of the wheel rim and wheel itself respectively.
This is the thread for modders isn't it.
//edit
To be clear I am building the adapter and want information not an adapter for everyone sold to the public.
- 1,166
- The Netherlands
- HoiHman
- HoiHman
I have a question for RacerXX / Ekretz
I just mounted a new motor pack in my CSW this week.
Do you think the longlivity of the motors will improve if i use compressed air to clean them of the residu of the brushes wearing in, after a couple hours of use?
I just mounted a new motor pack in my CSW this week.
Do you think the longlivity of the motors will improve if i use compressed air to clean them of the residu of the brushes wearing in, after a couple hours of use?
- 1,166
- The Netherlands
- HoiHman
- HoiHman
Thanks for the reply RacerXX
So cleaning them with compressed air after a couple hours of use has no real use?
I did read about the water break in, but if i'm not mistaken that was explained generaly.
How would you breakin a fanatec motor pack?
-Both motors at the same time?
-What voltage?
-how long?
-both directions or only one?
Is still usefull to water breakin motors that already have 5-10 hours of use?
- 1,603
- IN
- Eric_J2358
@ibuycheap: well why don't you just remove the entire wire harness back to the board and make your own? Then you needn't cut anything.
I agree with RXX on the water break-in. It helps to smooth out the motors a lot. If you wanted to you could always blow out the motors after the water break-in with compressed air. Maybe once a month as you use them too. Brush dust build-up can cause issues if it packs into the commutator slots, but it takes a while to so so.
I agree with RXX on the water break-in. It helps to smooth out the motors a lot. If you wanted to you could always blow out the motors after the water break-in with compressed air. Maybe once a month as you use them too. Brush dust build-up can cause issues if it packs into the commutator slots, but it takes a while to so so.
- 4,158
- Ottawa
- 36
- Sussex
Im looking up doing water break in's on brushed motors and apparently your supposed to flush out the water with motor cleaner afterward. You also need to re-lube the bearings. Some say tap water is fine some saw distilled is best. Generally Im seeing it recommended to do it @ around 3v for roughly 30 mins. In our case as the motors are working both directions we should be breaking in in both directions too.
My wheel is far from new but due to how the motors are used on FFB wheels I think it would still be beneficial to do. Reason being the commutator/brush connection is probably still quite square as the motor has never been allowed to spin freely and wear a nice curve into the brush where it meets the commutator.
Im hoping to get a bit more power from doing a break in. Any thoughts?
My wheel is far from new but due to how the motors are used on FFB wheels I think it would still be beneficial to do. Reason being the commutator/brush connection is probably still quite square as the motor has never been allowed to spin freely and wear a nice curve into the brush where it meets the commutator.
Im hoping to get a bit more power from doing a break in. Any thoughts?
- 1,603
- IN
- Eric_J2358
The motors don't need to rotate quickly to break in the brushes. They just need to have current put through them while the comm moves. Slow or fast makes no difference, although when moving quickly you'd get more even wear on both the comm and brushes. The brushes are serrated so they actually do break in fairly rapidly compared to the old school square/flat brushes.
I copy/pasted this from an earlier post on the subject:
You can connect it to a battery, but if there is any problem you get a self-destruct pretty rapidly. The point of doing it the way he did was to limit the amperage delivered to the motor in case of an uh-oh. Especially when using a dirty used or oily motor you can add to the conductivity of the water and cause a problem. If you use a new motor in reverse osmosis or distilled/deionized water you should be ok. I also didn't let it run for 20 minutes. I used my bench power supply and just slowly turned up the voltage. I started at 6v for 1 min. then 12, 24, 30, 36 for ~30 seconds each. I only ran mine for about 3 minutes, but also in both directions for 6 minutes total.
Even running on a battery at set voltage you will get most if not all of the benefit. Do run both directions though. I'd recommend running at 12V if you don't have variable voltage capability for at least a few minutes in either direction.
You do need to oil the bushings and motor shaft afterwards but you don't necessarily need to flush with any kind of solvent or motor cleaner. Blowing out with air would be great but even that isn't strictly necessary. I would probably recommend against motor cleaner or solvent actually since it can soak into the brushes and make them wear faster and also because it tends to be flammable.
I copy/pasted this from an earlier post on the subject:
You can connect it to a battery, but if there is any problem you get a self-destruct pretty rapidly. The point of doing it the way he did was to limit the amperage delivered to the motor in case of an uh-oh. Especially when using a dirty used or oily motor you can add to the conductivity of the water and cause a problem. If you use a new motor in reverse osmosis or distilled/deionized water you should be ok. I also didn't let it run for 20 minutes. I used my bench power supply and just slowly turned up the voltage. I started at 6v for 1 min. then 12, 24, 30, 36 for ~30 seconds each. I only ran mine for about 3 minutes, but also in both directions for 6 minutes total.
Even running on a battery at set voltage you will get most if not all of the benefit. Do run both directions though. I'd recommend running at 12V if you don't have variable voltage capability for at least a few minutes in either direction.
You do need to oil the bushings and motor shaft afterwards but you don't necessarily need to flush with any kind of solvent or motor cleaner. Blowing out with air would be great but even that isn't strictly necessary. I would probably recommend against motor cleaner or solvent actually since it can soak into the brushes and make them wear faster and also because it tends to be flammable.
- 577
- NC
Yup it's definitely better, the modified-for-more-flex-and-wrap three-rib belt. Ran F1 2012, Dirt 3, and Horizon Rally. I actually have *more* grip than the 2 rib belt as shown for 100% sure on the ammeter. About .4 amps higher current (= more torque, period) is coming from reduced slip which loads the motors a bit harder. Yet my drag is solidly lower than ever. I think that I can grind down the belt a bit more since belt traction is decent but will wait a few days for that. My Rennsport stand is taking such a beating when I "crash" that I need a more stable platform. Fortunately my cockpit shows up on Tuesday.
I did not have a chance to make my only-active-when-needed-yet-passive idler brackets. That will allow even a bit less belt tension. Normally this would increase slip. But with the idlers I described the other day I should be able to have them do nothing at all to hurt drag/feel below about 50% FFB. Since they would not be touching the belt. And then they'd be increasingly active for high FFB signals and especially for sudden reversals. Any drag they introduce would be tiny compared to the huge forces already taking place at those times. In other words active only when needed, and out of the way doing no harm to "feel" the rest of the time.
I did not have a chance to make my only-active-when-needed-yet-passive idler brackets. That will allow even a bit less belt tension. Normally this would increase slip. But with the idlers I described the other day I should be able to have them do nothing at all to hurt drag/feel below about 50% FFB. Since they would not be touching the belt. And then they'd be increasingly active for high FFB signals and especially for sudden reversals. Any drag they introduce would be tiny compared to the huge forces already taking place at those times. In other words active only when needed, and out of the way doing no harm to "feel" the rest of the time.
Last edited:
