Fanatec CSW/CSR Elite Modders Thread *UPDATE February 2014*

[Michelcleo]

Hey,
Had another play.

In the last few month i've cme to realise something, the t500rs holds up very well to 60% power for sessions, it's once want more power and start creaping over 70% the motr strugges to stay cool.

Wth mofset heatsinks, the stock fan blowing on them powered from somewhere else 24/7, 1 on the motor heatsink and 1 ontop the motor with abit of double sided foam and a ziptie.

After some good sessions with the wheel in its current state i can get 78% power throughout a 30 min session with no loss of power and teh motor stays cool/warm.

Remove the motor fan and it lasts about 20 min before motor is very hot and there's loss of power, at the same time i notice my wattage reader is allso pulling 10 less watts.
Wheel watts at any gain while old pulls arnd 57watts, when motor s ht and theres loss of power wheel pulls abut 45watts.

Just thought some of you may want to know and look at some pics

 

[RacerXX]

delete

 

[Michelcleo]

Me and the cockpit are doing fine, we've been bashing Pcars MP mostly so have no real issues ntill the other day when went back upto a higher power and then started to get bugged again.

Been looking at the rc motor air coolers but the UK do'nt seem to have anything?
Closest i can find is something like this http://www.integy.com/st_prod.html?p_prodid=9609&p_catid=28 but could do with a bigger diameter but having issues finding bigger.Ive read in a few forums some of these type of coolers will happily fit larger motors as they stretch open, if it's not perfect i could allways use some thermal padding

 

[eKretz]

Hey michelcleo, thanks for the update! I sort of wonder why the motors in these wheels aren't open can motors to let more of the heat out. The MOSFETs on that T500 are big, can you tell me what number is on them? I'm curious what they're rated for, can't make it out in your photo. That is a BIG old cap too. The CSW has multiple little guys instead of a big one. I bet your added fans and sinks are helping quite a bit.

 

[eKretz]

BTW, hi Thomas, I see you! =)

 

[BrEaKnDiSh]

@ Michelcleo

The mosfets are TO-220 style chips (thats the reference to the shape of the ic and not a part number) and there are specific heatsinks available for that type of chip.

See here: https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=t...83,d.d2k&fp=4085c1f5447c3a0c&biw=1440&bih=719

You could remove the screws and carefully stand them up to fit bigger heatsinks, or use the ones that slide under between the back of the ic and the PCB.

Also your fan would be more effective blowing over the motor heatsink. You have it blowing half over the motor can and not on the heatsink.

Hope this helps

 

[eKretz]

Good advice on the MOSFET cooling, but the one fan is blowing directly into the heatsink, it won't get much more effective than that. I see the other one as more of an auxiliary fan, so it is only helping add a little cooling to the can.

The CSW and Elite use D-PAK (TO-252) vs. the T500's TO-220s.

 

[bermudakid]

delete

 

[eKretz]

As an FYI for all, I'm working on the motor setup with my motor guy and we're looking at neodymium magnets and open cans so we can evacuate the heat directly from the windings, brushes and armature rather than waiting for the heat to soak into the can. I'm starting to work on fabbing a duct setup so we can run air from a side fan through the motor cans and out the opposite side fan, avoiding brush dust contamination of the board and belts. We are expecting a significant increase in torque and a drop-in fit. We have put the innovative cooling approach on hold until we see how the air cooled setup works, since it'll be cheaper and simpler for all with air cooling.

 

[Michelcleo]

Thanks for the tips guys, pctures are from a quick setup, works good enough for the moment untill i can find a 48/49/50/51mm motor heatsink.

The fan on the can does wonders, without it the heat just builds and builds, it does'nt do much but it does cool down the side of teh can that has no heatsink and helps the heat to stop building up so much.

I got teh fan off center as if its centered it does'nt hit the hot side very well, the idea is to blow around and down under it and have the little fan blownig on the heatsink, it all works good but could be better bt not much pint untill i get this and see if it will stretch onto the can ?
Not ordered yet but its the largest i can find in the uk ? but its 5mm short in diameter at least, not much so it cold stretch over the can.
https://www.rcgeeks.co.uk/Hobbywing...-mm-with-5V-Cooling-Fan-ComboC4?keyword=large heatsink&category_id=0

This one is 46mm but again not in uk ?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Integy-Br...adio_Control_Control_Line&hash=item5d3cb168e5

We measured teh can at just under 51mm, something like 50.89763


Cant see what the numbers on the mofsets are as there covered with heatsinks now and insde the wheel, sorry

The mosfets are TO-220

I was actually looking in maplins at these type of heatsinks

 

[Michelcleo]

Anybetter hehehe


It sure does'nt look pretty but not bothered as long as i can have more power for longer that's all that counts.
Must remember to put all the screws away safely just incase rma is needed one day.

 

[eKretz]

Haha, you should rename that wheel FrankenMaster!

 

[Michelcleo]

I sure should as it's a beast lol

The 2 larger fans actually work extremely good considering most of teh can does'nt have a a heatsink, just done 3 laps of nurburg ring at 85%, finished, turned fans off and the motor is alot cooler now, not even hot, just warmish and wheel weight stayed virtually the same throught the 21 or so minutes

I'll know for certain what power i can keep cool with these fans, i'll have about a 2/3 hour sessoin of multiplayer tonight and thnk i'll stick at 78% power and see how it holds up, shold be enough power for my fans to keep cool all night.

Edit, just felt the can about 4 minutes after racing, can is hot but i turned the fans off so theres alot of internal heat by the looks of t, fans do keep the can cool thugh so this in turn will cool the internals much better i'd think.

 

[BrEaKnDiSh]

@ Michelcleo

Could you post the numbers on the belts in your wheel please.

 

[Michelcleo]

outer belt



Inner belt




Both Gates.

 

[Cote Dazur]

I sure should as it's a beast lol

The 2 larger fans actually work extremely good considering most of teh can does'nt have a a heatsink.

Are the fans blowing on the engine or are they extracting the hot air? Have you tried both?

 

[Michelcleo]

Are the fans blowing on the engine or are they extracting the hot air? Have you tried both?

Only blowing on, have'nt tried extracting as there would'nt be much air moved under the motor.

If i tried extracting with current setup the fans hit motor/heatsink, blowing on i can rest the fans casing on the motor/heatsink.

 

[BrEaKnDiSh]

Thanks Michelcleo

 

[RacerXX]

delete

 

[eKretz]

Haha, nice! Give 'em hell!

 

[RacerXX]

delete

 

[BLACK86]

Whats the wheel drag difference between stock csre/csw and the t500 anyone?
Guess i really want to know if the drag on t500 is less

 

[RacerXX]

delete

 

[eKretz]

What review is that graph from? Don't think I've seen that one. The RXX mod decimates all!! hehe

 

[RacerXX]

delete

 

[eKretz]

Ohh, lol. That graph looks like it came from a review and you added yours in. Nice! Yeah Imay try some of the low-drag mods before too long, I still haven't got my initial drag test done to see where it's at stock. Are you able to get a decent reading at such a low pull with the fish scale?

 

[RacerXX]

delete

 

[eKretz]

Picked up a new soldering iron after my nearly 10 year old one croaked last week. I highly recommend a good iron for anyone who does much soldering. The good stuff just makes everything so much easier and more pleasant. Here's my new one:

Fast heat, goes from room temp to 650F in about 9 seconds. Pretty amazing compared to my old one, which took a few minutes. This one has a nice standby feature too, when you set it down, after 20 seconds idle time it drops back the temp to whatever you set standby temp to in the menu, I have mine set at 350F, and it comes back up to 650 in about 3-4 seconds as soon as you pick it up (motion sensor). Really a nice piece of gear.

 

[mrbasher]

Nice, good move. A "real" soldering iron is a necessity in my opinion. This must mean you have been using that Weller soldering gun all this time... Yikes.

Be sure to get some good solder too. I use this: AIM Solder 209AXT No-Clean Cored. They come in 1 pound rolls and will last quite some time.

Be sure to keep the tip clean and tin it after each use before shutting it off. The tip will last a LONG time if you do that.

 

[eKretz]

Nah, not the Weller, I've had a cheap 80W Radio Shack adjustable temp iron. That Weller gun just magically appeared at my house at some point; someone probably gave it to me and I forgot all about it. I don't think I ever even plugged it in until I tried it out before putting it on eBay actually. Those things are useless for any fine work. That's good advice on the tips; I've been doing exactly as you recommended for the nearly 10 years I had the RatShack model and I only had to replace 1 tip the whole time. I have a couple big rolls of Kester 60/40 rosin core that should last me forever.