Fanatec CSW/CSR Elite Modders Thread *UPDATE February 2014*
- Thread starter eKretz
- 3,608 comments
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- 4,162
- Ottawa
Just for the record, easy test this time, I am getting 360° on my Elite, far from his 900° on his G27, but more than 90°.
RacerXX what is your low drag wheel doing?
G27 might have less drag than a belted wheel, but would not all the subtleties that this state might bring be lost in the gears play?
- 2,858
- Australia
Ah, very perceptive. Though I daren't call it intuition. Yes, deep down we are all about the misogyny here.
Seriously though, what ridiculous behaviour! I am sympathetic toward the possible true catalyst for your remarks, but please do not visit erroneously manufactured slights on our characters. Shame on you.
On topic: Loving your work with drag RXX. I feel like it is a less considered aspect of wheels, certainly from the consumer side, but evidently also on the development side.
Also, in my efforts to bring low tech to new lows, I give you my latest "mod". I was surprised that no-one seemed to be at all disturbed by the clack sound that one gets when the pedals on a set of csp return to rest. It bothered me, so I took some thin, hard cardboard and cut a piece to the width of the csp's foot plate, and around 30mm wide with a bend through the middle. Chuckling to myself all the while, I drilled (yes drilled) three holes in one side to allow for the hex screws that hold the foot plate and now my cardboard in place. Once in place it stays remarkably static and I am really happy with the feel, and muted, non-distracting sound. May eventually use some thin rubberised plastic or something instead, but I like it.
- 1,603
- IN
- Eric_J2358
LOL, LeMans. Go to your local hardware store and pick up some rubber pipe insulation sealing tape. I have used it all over my Fanatec gear. It's a thin rubber tape maybe .02" thick with pretty good adhesive on one side. I've silenced my paddle shifters, pedals...all sorts of uses for the stuff.
Miss Joan, put the hackles down. The "boys" were merely commenting in a humorous fashion about your earlier post regarding my son being in grave danger with the power supply when they saw my new soldering iron.
Miss Joan, put the hackles down. The "boys" were merely commenting in a humorous fashion about your earlier post regarding my son being in grave danger with the power supply when they saw my new soldering iron.
- 1,326
- SC
- 2,858
- Australia
Nice, makes me wonder what those responsible for coding ffb for games are using since as I think you already pointed out, you are limited by what they give you to work with. It would be sensible to work with the purest and most transparent wheel possible and scale back from there, but is that what they are actually doing? Code only for the subtleties that you would feel and the "fudgey" wheels will miss a lot of it, code only for said "fudgey" wheels and yours will get the dumbed down version.
- 2,858
- Australia
Light as a Real Feel Wheel over here. Just don't appreciate gender issues being addressed so flippantly. Someone may need to read The B.... ah..... Person Who Cried Wolf.
- 1,603
- IN
- Eric_J2358
Ugh, I got my replacement transistors to fix my board the other day and last night I went to do the R&R when I discovered that the leg of the transistor was vaporized. This wasn't really a problem except that it took out the SMD pad and part of the trace with it, leaving a small crater in the board. I am attempting a repair by taking a piece of 28 AWG copper wire and flattening it, then tinning it and cutting to length to replace the trace and pad. Next I mixed up some epoxy and filled the crater on the board. After that dries thoroughly I'll epoxy the new trace to the board and solder it to the existing trace (again, after thoroughly drying). Then solder the new transistor in. BTW, this transistor blew because of user error on my part this time, not my son. I was probing board voltages with my crappy unshielded multimeter leads when I shorted a leg of the transistor and watched as it put on a mini light show while burning up. I recommend that for SMD work if you don't have a good set of shielded leads to wrap all but a tiny bit at the tip with electrical tape when probing. I learned my lesson.
I have also contacted Fanatec about a replacement board just to have a spare around since I am doing a lot of experimentation, you never know when something might kaboom, and repairs are totally possible but they can take time to trace when there are not physical signs of damage. The price for a complete replacement board for the CSW is $50, which is reasonable IMO. The Elite might be more since it has the wireless proprietary Microsoft gizmo on the board, I didn't ask. It might also be cheaper or the same since the board is a bit less complicated than the CSW board.
I have also contacted Fanatec about a replacement board just to have a spare around since I am doing a lot of experimentation, you never know when something might kaboom, and repairs are totally possible but they can take time to trace when there are not physical signs of damage. The price for a complete replacement board for the CSW is $50, which is reasonable IMO. The Elite might be more since it has the wireless proprietary Microsoft gizmo on the board, I didn't ask. It might also be cheaper or the same since the board is a bit less complicated than the CSW board.
- 1,603
- IN
- Eric_J2358
Yeah, I saw your thoughts earlier in the other thread. There are some interesting ideas there. I should think by implementing some of the low drag ideas it should help my linearity also. I remember when booting my wheel with the Bees I never seemed to see the calibration twitch, almost like it had stopped doing it. Not sure what was going on there, but I'll be taking a closer look once I get my repairs finished.
BTW, that guy that you referred me to (that you recently visited) never did answer my email.
BTW, that guy that you referred me to (that you recently visited) never did answer my email.
- 36
- Sussex
Anyone got a spare Fanatec Motor I can buy?
Yes, I have been one of the lurkers, been following this thread for some time now.
RacerXX ......... I think Fanatec should hire you (or at least consult you & toss some $$ your way)!
I have a question for you concerning my CSW with F1 rim, which I have had for less that a month. I have checked the screws around the electrical connections inside the wheel hub. They were OK on the base, loose on the wheel. I tightened them up, so I'm good there.
One issue is the jolt I get when moving the wheel away from center. At about 3/8" rotation left & right (measured from rim circumference) there is no FF. I call this the FF Dead Zone. As far as the sensor output is concerned there is no dead zone, move the wheel and there is an immediate reaction at any point in wheel rotation, which is the good part.
When I do position the wheel at or through the 3/8" left or right of center I get a big jolt, almost as much as the vibrations at the max wheel rotation positions. I tried this in iRacing (used Wheel Check & Atlas to set up wheel FF), Nascar 2003 Season, GPL, all with similar results. Going down a straight and moving the wheel to pass produces quit a jolt left & right as well as entering turns, etc. I don't run massive FF, I'm more concerned about what the front/rear wheels are doing. I don't get oscillations, just the jolt.
One other issue is that my wheel rotation stops are a bit weird. Sometimes I have firm stops left & right. It vibrates at the stop and then with a little bit more force applied by me it is a solid stop. But sometimes only one side will do this and it has also switched sides. When it does this the stop will not vibrate at the max wheel rotation and it feels mushy and is easy to turn past the initial resistance and never feels firm. I haven't had this change on the track, just when turning on the CSW & checking it before racing.
So Racerxx, as someone who knows his **** about this stuff do you think I have a problem with my wheel, motors, etc. as far as issue number two? I assume issue number one is driver/firmware related.
RacerXX ......... I think Fanatec should hire you (or at least consult you & toss some $$ your way)!
I have a question for you concerning my CSW with F1 rim, which I have had for less that a month. I have checked the screws around the electrical connections inside the wheel hub. They were OK on the base, loose on the wheel. I tightened them up, so I'm good there.
One issue is the jolt I get when moving the wheel away from center. At about 3/8" rotation left & right (measured from rim circumference) there is no FF. I call this the FF Dead Zone. As far as the sensor output is concerned there is no dead zone, move the wheel and there is an immediate reaction at any point in wheel rotation, which is the good part.
When I do position the wheel at or through the 3/8" left or right of center I get a big jolt, almost as much as the vibrations at the max wheel rotation positions. I tried this in iRacing (used Wheel Check & Atlas to set up wheel FF), Nascar 2003 Season, GPL, all with similar results. Going down a straight and moving the wheel to pass produces quit a jolt left & right as well as entering turns, etc. I don't run massive FF, I'm more concerned about what the front/rear wheels are doing. I don't get oscillations, just the jolt.
One other issue is that my wheel rotation stops are a bit weird. Sometimes I have firm stops left & right. It vibrates at the stop and then with a little bit more force applied by me it is a solid stop. But sometimes only one side will do this and it has also switched sides. When it does this the stop will not vibrate at the max wheel rotation and it feels mushy and is easy to turn past the initial resistance and never feels firm. I haven't had this change on the track, just when turning on the CSW & checking it before racing.
So Racerxx, as someone who knows his **** about this stuff do you think I have a problem with my wheel, motors, etc. as far as issue number two? I assume issue number one is driver/firmware related.
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- 1,603
- IN
- Eric_J2358
If I may throw my $.02 into the ring, (you seemed awfully intent on getting an answer from RXX) the "clunk" in the center of the wheel is a known issue with iRacing. David Tucker, the author of the WheelCheck program, recently released an updated version that addresses this and also allows linearity to be tweaked. Look for the wheelcheck thread in the API/Development forum section at iRacing.
