Fanatec CSW/CSR Elite Modders Thread *UPDATE February 2014*

[Markofq]

hehe I don't dring coke , don't know for CSW base

 

[eKretz]

Marko, increase your belt tension at the wider belt/pulley. I used a lever to push out on the pulley to keep it tight while tightening the bolts. This eliminated nearly all my slip with 40VDC driving the Buhler motors, so it should easily be able to handle stock motors unless you have a problem with grease or something on the pulley or belt.

 

[Markofq]

Marko, increase your belt tension at the wider belt/pulley. I used a lever to push out on the pulley to keep it tight while tightening the bolts. This eliminated nearly all my slip with 40VDC driving the Buhler motors, so it should easily be able to handle stock motors unless you have a problem with grease or something on the pulley or belt.

I did use all my fingers strenght to tighten that belt, didn't think lever is needed.
I cleaned both pulley and belt with IPA, will have to try with more tension with some lever, but that will add to the drag

 

[eKretz]

No not really, that belt doesn't seem to affect drag much at all compared to the motor belt. I just kept adding a little more tension until mine stopped slipping and I didn't feel hardly any difference in the drag. It's hard to get enough tension on that belt with just your fingers. The motor belt can be tensioned with fingers though.

 

[RacerXX]

delete

 

[RacerXX]

delete

 

[BrEaKnDiSh]

For way stronger "ABS" pulsing, I used much larger motors fitted with tungsten counterweights. I used the stock signal to trigger a relay to send a fiercer signal to them. That way I could adjust the effect and not burn up the circuit board. You can also get some improvement by adding a second similar-to-stock vibe motor from an old game controller. The cool thing about that option is that the slightly different RPMs leads to a realistic ABS beat effect as they go in and out of phase. Note other adjustments, wire tucking, base plate addition...

Above you can see one of my cushy add-ons to the heel plate on my pedals…it's tool drawer liner wrapped around the piece. Mostly I use the soft "diamond plate" though, as it is thicker…you can see my thumb depressing it as an example.

Nice mod!

The problem with that method in what I want to do it is that I want to retain the variable level of the signal feeding the rumble motor. I cant see that being possible using a relay. What Im pondering is using stronger rumble motors mounted on the chassis and seat etc. I guess I could find a motor driver that will simply boost the DC signal?

I've also asked my audio buddies over on pinkfishmedia.com about attenuating the DC signal and converting it to AC 'line level' so it can be fed to an amp and drive a buttkicker!

 

[BrEaKnDiSh]

Some nice CSR mods here:

http://insidesimracing.tv/forums/topic/7284-update-pics-video-of-my-rig-csr-elite-mods-formula-rim/

 

[RacerXX]

delete

 

[eKretz]

That Elite mod looks awesome, but he seems to have added quite a bit of weight to the wheel. That's why I'm contemplating making a wheel from carbon.

 

[RacerXX]

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[RacerXX]

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[K_Soze]

RacerXX : The Colin Chapman of the quick release : "Light is Right !"
I love that

 

[ibuycheap]

RacerXX : The Colin Chapman of the quick release : "Light is Right !"
I love that

It probably works better than that crappy and heavy fake sparco that people keep using.

 

[RacerXX]

delete

 

[Mr Latte]

Nice mod!

The problem with that method in what I want to do it is that I want to retain the variable level of the signal feeding the rumble motor. I cant see that being possible using a relay. What Im pondering is using stronger rumble motors mounted on the chassis and seat etc. I guess I could find a motor driver that will simply boost the DC signal?

I've also asked my audio buddies over on pinkfishmedia.com about attenuating the DC signal and converting it to AC 'line level' so it can be fed to an amp and drive a buttkicker!

You want to talk to Mr Basher.
I have already discussed this possibility regarding the best method and using a tactile unit. He may have an update soon perhaps.

 

[mrbasher]

You want to talk to Mr Basher.
I have already discussed this possibility regarding the best method and using a tactile unit. He may have an update soon perhaps.

You are correct. Well on the way actually. Currently experimenting but I've got the better part of it worked out now, mostly in my head.

It will not work like the Fanatec pedals do.

 

[Carson79]

Guys I just replaced the motors in my CSW as per Fanatec instructions but the wheel won't centre or calibrate properly on start up it will only start calibrating if moved right or left and then pulls really fast and stays locked left or right.
I've updated the firmware and tired centring the wheel manually but no joy.
Any idea's?

 

[LogiForce]

Guys I just replaced the motors in my CSW as per Fanatec instructions but the wheel won't centre or calibrate properly on start up it will only start calibrating if moved right or left and then pulls really fast and stays locked left or right.
I've updated the firmware and tired centring the wheel manually but no joy.
Any idea's?

Give the long belt that goes around the motors more slack. You might have the belt tension too high, resulting in a too high resistance for the motors to overcome.

Also double check the sensor, sensor cable and code wheel state to be sure.

 

[fatkrakr]

Did you rewire the connectors on the motors? When I recieved my replacement motors I needed to switch the wiring around. My wheel did the same as your saying before i switched them.

 

[Carson79]

All taken care of already. It was the wires. Thanks Henk :-)

 

[fatkrakr]

I dont know why Fanatec send the pdf on how to swap the motors, yet dont bother to include anywhere that the wires need switched around. You need to find that info on your own. Its a pretty important step in the process.

 

[mrbasher]

I dont know why Fanatec send the pdf on how to swap the motors, yet dont bother to include anywhere that the wires need switched around. You need to find that info on your own. Its a pretty important step in the process.

Maybe because somewhere along the line, the wires were switched on some wheels and they have no idea who has what? They should at least mention: "If *this* happens, swap the wires"

 

[fatkrakr]

No need for it ever to get to the "if this happens" state. A simple note saying to look at the wires to make sure they match your old motors is all thats needed. I had to unmount and tear my wheel back apart to fix it.

 

[LogiForce]

Maybe because somewhere along the line, the wires were switched on some wheels and they have no idea who has what? They should at least mention: "If *this* happens, swap the wires"

Or just not solder them to the motors and use FAST-ON connectors/plugs instead that you can push right onto the leads of the motors (or remove them for that matter).
Not everyone has a soldering iron, is handy enough or has the guts to swap wires in their expensive gear.

 

[mrbasher]

Oh I completely agree with the both of you. I was just "supposing"

 

[eKretz]

Regardless, they ought to do something.

 

[HoiHman]

Regardless, they ought to do something.

If you take the back cover of the wheel and send them a picture of the PCB board, it's very easy for CS to determine which wiring is needed.

All they need to do is : Ask

 

[fatkrakr]

Its not hard to figure out if you need to switch the wires "IF" you know to look. Thats all Im trying to say. Its an important bit of info.

 

[eKretz]

If you take the back cover of the wheel and send them a picture of the PCB board, it's very easy for CS to determine which wiring is needed.

All they need to do is : Ask

Of course all they need to do is ask; the point is they shouldn't have to. The correct orientation should be something that's in the instructions with the replacement motors as an application note at the very least. It would be even simpler for Fanatec to include the information and photos on a photocopied sheet with the motors so people can determine the correct polarity and whether they need to switch the wires without having to install the motors, find a problem, and wonder WTF while contacting Fanatec customer service again.

Many here on the modding thread would have no problem working it out themselves, especially as this has happened to several people already and been discussed here, but the vast majority of people who own these wheels are the "average consumer" who knows not much about repairs or modifications or even how a DC brushed motor works in the first place.