- 532
- Canada
Fanatec CSW/CSR Elite Modders Thread *UPDATE February 2014*
- Thread starter eKretz
- 3,608 comments
- 608,874 views
- 4,178
- Ottawa
This morning I tried to remove the pulleys from my extra set of motors, I had no problem removing the hex head, but the pulleys seem to be glued, I cannot slide them out.
Any advice?
Any advice?
- 164
- United States
- FatnSlo
- FatnSlo
Have to use heat to expand them or a puller to get them off.
I was going to change the grub screw in the pulleys to an Allen bolt, it wouldn't look as neat but wouldn't have to retap the thread for a lager grubscrew
- 1,603
- IN
- Eric_J2358
That's another thing - some of the screws I've had the (dis)pleasure to remove seem to either have been already damaged by the Chinese fellow who put the wheel together or are just made poorly and way too large of a hex. Maybe he or she was using a worn hex wrench. Some are fine and some I had to drill out. Jerome's for instance were both stripped out/rounded and had to be drilled. I have been able (had to) to use a 1/16" hex wrench on some of them, which is .003" (almost .1mm) oversize. That's a lot for such a small hex. Even a tiny bit over is enough to allow the hex to round off on such a small hex head. It's very important to use good quality, properly sized hex wrenches for the smaller sizes. I recommend Wiha, Wera or Felo wrenches as my favorites.
As far as the pulley, FatnSlo has got you covered. Some of the stock pulleys have slid right off for me and some needed a puller. Sometimes they put so much threadlock compound on the setscrew that it leeches into the bore and sticks the shaft in the pulley too. Gentle heat will break the threadlock loose.
- 9,737
- Portland, OR
- Jump_Ace
- JUMPxACE
Yep, one of the pulley socket screws got stripped the first time I tried to disassemble it. Some joker put too much loctite in there. Did you use loctite at all for my setup Eric?
Jerome
Jerome
LogiForce
Premium
- 4,078
- Groningen, Netherlands
- LogiForce86
- LogiForce
eKretz... what the heck did you do to this? It calibrates like it thinks it can beat Speedy Gonzales or something. lol
I wouldn't put a finger in the wheel's rotation arch, that's a thing I am pretty sure about.
Link to video: http://s240.photobucket.com/user/eKretz/media/Fanatec Mods/IMG_0375.mp4.html
I wouldn't put a finger in the wheel's rotation arch, that's a thing I am pretty sure about.
Link to video: http://s240.photobucket.com/user/eKretz/media/Fanatec Mods/IMG_0375.mp4.html
- 1,603
- IN
- Eric_J2358
Haha, that's not calibration buddy, that is a Wheelcheck test being conducted. There's no way to get the wheel to do anything like that on calibration because the CSW base only sends a limited voltage to the motors on startup. That crazy beast speed and power is the reason I mentioned earlier when I was talking about F1 2013 that I had to make sure I had a good grip on the wheel when I hit the gravel if I went off line.
- 20
- Switzerland
- geg_geg
Finishing up a couple of drop-in motor blocks for guys. Motors gasketed, getting ready to apply sealant to the air passages to make sure they're air-tight. Then it's bolt in the motors and solder on the new leads. And out the door.
One of those is mine
Good job Eric go go go 
Looking forward to install it in my CSW
- 1,603
- IN
- Eric_J2358
Lol, yes sir! I know you are chomping at the bit! (English expression that means you are really wanting it, having difficulty waiting). Waiting on the sealant to dry on both motor blocks - after soldering tomorrow it's into the post for both of them! Now remember while I've got you here and paying attention - when you get your motor block the first thing you should do is take a toothbrush and rubbing alcohol and scrub the pulley grooves before you install. Then I would put on a pair of latex or nitrile rubber gloves to install the belt so you don't get any oil from your fingers on it or the pulleys. Your pulley setscrews aren't Loctited because you will need to move them to install the belt. You'll need to loosen the setscrews (2mm or 5/64" hex wrench - they are the same size) and slide the pulleys down toward the motors then slip the belt over them and slide them back up to tighten them. A 4.5mm hex wrench between the motor mount and the motor side face of the large diameter of the pulley should get you pretty close on location, then apply Loctite (if you want to, you don't have to) and tighten the setscrews. Tension your steering shaft belt (with the wedge tool) and then tension your motor belt.
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- 20
- Switzerland
- geg_geg
Ok I got the picture. Do you think i have to clean the belt too? I have touched it with my fingers. Do you have a trick to tension the motor belt? what tension i have to put? I am going to make the wedge tool this week-end and fine tunning my deadening sound box for the air pump. By the way, are the quick release 6mm or 4mm? i think 4mm but not sure.
- 1,603
- IN
- Eric_J2358
I actually have both sizes right now, just tell me if you prefer one or the other. I accidentally ordered some 6mm a while back but I prefer the 4mm because the thicker hose is harder to rotate for the quick release. It wouldn't hurt to clean the belt, but for that I would just use some warm soapy water. The reason you need to get everything clean now is the additional torque you're going to have - this makes it easier to get belt slip. You can easily tension the motor belt by hand or using a small block of wood to push the motor mount bolts outward by levering against the bolt heads next to them.
- 4,178
- Ottawa
Looking forward to read the comments about those new motors
- 1,603
- IN
- Eric_J2358
Hey guys, just had a visit from fellow Indiana resident Derickh as he was dropping off his CSW for the Bühler mod work. He got to race some F1 2013 with my modded wheel at both 24V FF100 and 36V FF80 levels. Stay tuned and hopefully he will give some impressions soon.
- 532
- Canada
Lucky Ducky derickh, Hey eric Have you tried the New Lotus 125 on Assetto ?
- 532
- Canada
FREEKIN INSANE FUN!!!!!!!! FFb is the best ive felt yet from AC. I settled on 110 FOR, 120-130 was FUN but i could tell it was a bit much on the motor's and a little tiring on the arms lol
PS this is the S1 version im referring to, the stock 125 isn't anywhere close to the same level of fun.
Hello All,
What an awesome job eKretz has done. I highly recommend getting this mod done. The 24v ff100 felt like a "BEAST" compared to the original motors. The 36v ff80 level made the "BEAST" really come alive. I really had to hold on tight when I went of track and even the rumble strips. I am really looking forward to getting the "new" base back and not have to worry about my wheel losing force feedback and possibly dying while in a race (which is what happened when my motors cut out). Thanks Again Eric for doing this mod and bringing it to us.
What an awesome job eKretz has done. I highly recommend getting this mod done. The 24v ff100 felt like a "BEAST" compared to the original motors. The 36v ff80 level made the "BEAST" really come alive. I really had to hold on tight when I went of track and even the rumble strips. I am really looking forward to getting the "new" base back and not have to worry about my wheel losing force feedback and possibly dying while in a race (which is what happened when my motors cut out). Thanks Again Eric for doing this mod and bringing it to us.
- 1,603
- IN
- Eric_J2358
If anyone else feels that way I'd be happy to remove my stuff. Seems relevant to me, but I'd like to hear from others on the subject. I revised the first post to include all info for new readers so they don't have to comb through 40+ pages. I'm not sure what you mean by revisions to other posts. The only revisions I have made to other posts were error corrections AFAIK.
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