Fanatec CSW/CSR Elite Modders Thread *UPDATE February 2014*

  • Thread starter eKretz
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Regarding the power supply, I have started to look at a few but gotta have to find as cheap as possible do to my low budget so I wonder...

I found this 24V, 10A, 240W

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-Switching...180?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item20de5ef78c

But it´s $76 incl shipping to my location but what you (eKretz) recommended is it not?

Then I found this one but still it says: 24V, 14.5A, 360W (choose right model in drop down list)

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mean-Well-M...t=LH_DefaultDomain_0&var=&hash=item565abe9b61

..and that one is only $49 with free shipping?

Both says they are Meanwell but I don´t know much a about these things really, this mod will be very expensive for me personally and have to sacrifice some other stuff when paying for this mod so gotta be as cheap as can be yet I will not pay this amount for a upgrade only to mes it up by being too cheap for my own good!
Want a simple bolt on package that I can basically just hook up and run with no complications along the way if you know what I mean.

+ Another Clubsport related issue I have but not sure if the right place cause it´s about my CSP v2?
Anyway so sorry if OT don´t wanna create angry reactions and/or unnecessary work for admins so keep it short and please do correct me if I went overboard here?
As you know many have load cells fail every now and then but I´m getting tired of paying for imho expensive Fanatec stock cells so I wonder, is it ok to solder the connector on these and still use safely?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/261432803492?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

I tried it out just for fun (only cost $5 for x4 cells) and seam to work just like stock Fanatec although unplugged it right away after test/experiment cause do not wanna take any risks when I don´t have any real knowledge about them?
I do not use ABS or stomp the break, nor do I use max settings on the adjustable knob in fact I run the opposite of that and have grown to appreciate a sensitive break.

Is my suggestion a option I can even consider?
 
This might be something to note. I think that the USB-board in my V2 peldals rested directly on the metal plate it is attached to and short circuited itself. There were three screws present and one corner had a vacant hole. I managed to get one of the four plastic spacers to fall out under the board but it was nowhere near the corner that was missing the screw. Im waiting for a reply from F.

I'll probably put some tape on the mounting point to prevent any possibility of electricity conducting in wrong places. :grumpy:

Those load sensors look similar to originals...
 
Superslow - the 2nd power supply should do fine. Save money if you can for sure, I believe all of the Meanwells from that series have cooling fans also.

You can certainly use those load cells as long as you get them wired right - as a matter of fact I just crimped new connectors on 3 of them for someone from GTP so he could use them too.
 
As you know many have load cells fail every now and then but I´m getting tired of paying for imho expensive Fanatec stock cells so I wonder, is it ok to solder the connector on these and still use safely?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/261432803492?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

I tried it out just for fun (only cost $5 for x4 cells) and seam to work just like stock Fanatec although unplugged it right away after test/experiment cause do not wanna take any risks when I don´t have any real knowledge about them?
I do not use ABS or stomp the break, nor do I use max settings on the adjustable knob in fact I run the opposite of that and have grown to appreciate a sensitive break.

Is my suggestion a option I can even consider?

Just used my spare load cell so needed to get more. Thanks for that link. Gonna give them a try.
 

That same power supply is for sale at Fry's Electronics if you have one in your area. Maybe call and see if it's in stock:

http://www.frys.com/search?search_type=regular&sqxts=1&cat=&query_string=meanwell


Also, @eKretz has fixed my CSR Elite pedals too! I replaced the load cell sensor, had him wire it all up and ship the wires back to me. As a side note, I also replaced the foam insert, but it didn't make a difference : / Now my brake pedal is equally responsive as my gas pedal. Thanks Eric! :bowdown:

Now about those PS buttons... :P


Jerome
 
eKretz thanks for reply, appreciate it and will go for the stronger 14.4A supply then.

Blue, regarding the load cells I´m not sure about 25 or 50kg, actually I assumed it was 50kg load cells when I order these 50kg and they looked like a perfect fit mechanically with same measurements. Perhaps I even read it somewhere before but cannot confirm? I even suspect Fanatec use all cheapo Chinese electronics for there stuff + even manufactured there so maybe not so strange after all? My point is that I would not be surprised at all if the load cells are in fact the very same type of cells maybe from same source even but again I cannot confirm?

eKretz I don´t have any crimp tools or supplies but solder and used heat shrink tubing, first on individual wires + a outside layer around them as well for some extra strength/looks. Honestly I can say it does not look as good as the stock but I´m a noob with little experience with these things but hey it´s fun and I should do it more often so I can learn.
It´s a nice feeling when you see those solder joints getting better and not looking like big blobs anymore and have molten plastics on the end of the wires, many guys online was right, less is more in this case. :dopey:
Although a crimping tool sounds smart, anyone happen to know what the very small 2 pin connector is called for load cells? When I have the mod done I will drive a lot more and expect to go through them load cells.

EDIT: Sorry about the cost for them load cells guys, I converted my currency very sloppy into $ and messed up, it would be something like $8-9 for 4 of them including shipping. + I just took a link from Ebay, search for "load cell 50kg" and more options will come up just like it.
 
Hmm, the connector on my load cell is a 3-pin. The connector is a JST ZH. Soldering is fine if you don't have the tools for the crimp work, just be sure you insulate the joints well (sounds like you did) so they don't short to each other or anything else.
 
What do you think will happen if the wires are shorted? The sensor will get damaged or the board or both. Just thinking what I might need after the recent episode with the pedals.
 
I don't think the sensor would be damaged, probably just not work right. There is a possibility that something on the PCB could be damaged I suppose though.
 
Hmm, the connector on my load cell is a 3-pin. The connector is a JST ZH. Soldering is fine if you don't have the tools for the crimp work, just be sure you insulate the joints well (sounds like you did) so they don't short to each other or anything else.

Again thanks for some good information, now that I know what type of connector to buy I don´t need to re-use old connectors (they are cheap online) and perhaps not even solder anymore if I buy crimp tools and do it like you did? Seeing the cost for connectors + load cells (and possibly crimp tools) it will pay for itself in the long run compared to buying cells from Fanatec but to be 100% honest it´s not like I go through load cells like I change underwear but have used a few of them already and plan on driving a lot more after motor swap. Don´t know if just a coincident or low quality cells though?
 
Again thanks for some good information, now that I know what type of connector to buy I don´t need to re-use old connectors (they are cheap online) and perhaps not even solder anymore if I buy crimp tools and do it like you did? Seeing the cost for connectors + load cells (and possibly crimp tools) it will pay for itself in the long run compared to buying cells from Fanatec but to be 100% honest it´s not like I go through load cells like I change underwear but have used a few of them already and plan on driving a lot more after motor swap. Don´t know if just a coincident or low quality cells though?
The pedals are like many of Fanatec's products, they are mostly made of quality materials, but their is a key component that they will source the cheapest, lowest quality part they can find and stick it in their product.
 
IIRC, were'nt the stock load cells only rated at 25 kg? If so these load cells might be a bit of an upgrade

I don't know the load cell amount of the originals, @eKretz do you know? I'd assumed they were the same *shrug*


Jerome
 
Sure you can buy the crimp tool but even the cheapest ones are about $60. The little wires are not very easy to work with either, very easy to crimp too far and cut/weaken them. If you're not very experienced with crimping etc. I think I'd stick to soldering. Not sure what the stock load cells are rated for but these replacements work great so I would not even worry about the specs.
 
The pedals are like many of Fanatec's products, they are mostly made of quality materials, but their is a key component that they will source the cheapest, lowest quality part they can find and stick it in their product.

Yeah that´s how I see it as well, the metal parts /and some other materials) for example look/feel really good and give a solid impression worthy of the cost for clubsport stuff but the electronics in them or at the very least some of them components like motors and load cells seam to be purely cheapo Chinese through and through. Designed in Germany built in China right, like many things these days to cut costs I assume? At least forums like this exist with smart and helpful people in it, for that I´m very grateful, makes a difference for sure.

@eKretz yeah I had a look online and saw that they were somewhat expensive these crimp tools and I have no experience at all with them so maybe I´ll be better off sticking to soldering them after all, it´s not like I need to make hundreds of them either. Have no close friends who us Fanatec´s game ware either so it´s only for myself.
 
Regarding breaking in motors, when my CSW was new I started with very little FFB and slowly stepped it up over time but I wonder is there a better method + will what do you recommend for breaking in when we get the Buhler´s if even needed?
 
They should want you...on their staff! But just don't move overseas buddy.



Jerome
 
Are still on target with the bulk order? Are we going with the May 23rd deadline or end of month?

If we have approximately 15 people, might as well start collecting dollars and get the ball moving. If a few more people join before the end of the month, great. But I suspect it won't move the price drastically and it's unlikely we will hit the 30 person threshold in the foreseeable future.
 
Yeah we will probably go with the 15. When we hit the 23rd or the end of the month we need to do another email to make sure everyone is on board because a few have PMed me to say they wouldn't be able to go through with the order due to moving and some other circumstances.
 
Yeah we will probably go with the 15. When we hit the 23rd or the end of the month we need to do another email to make sure everyone is on board because a few have PMed me to say they wouldn't be able to go through with the order due to moving and some other circumstances.

Can you PM me those names or remove them from the list to ensure we're seeing an accurate count?

I, too, may need to bow out due to some life-ish circumstances. I even have my wheel up for sale. :(

That said, I'll stick it out and contribute if my non-participation drops us below the 15 threshold. I don't want to be that guy. I would like to think that I could sell my 2 motors to a future racer, though. :)

Per the list we currently have 18 folks signed up for the 15+ price.
 

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