Fanatec CSW/CSR Elite Modders Thread *UPDATE February 2014*

  • Thread starter eKretz
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I have yet to buy a bigger power supply...for now I only have the standard Fanatec adapter rated at 24V/5A.
This would be nice, if it stays cheap: http://www.ebay.de/itm/161310266728?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

So 18 volts could be a problem...maybe a stupid question: what if I use a 18V supply then?

Also the motors have a power range from 9 to 36 Volts...what is the coherence to the 18 Volts?

I can't say what will happen if you run it at 18V. It may run and it may not be enough voltage when the motors stall. I'm not sure what you're asking re: coherence?
 
I meant the voltage...how is it possible, that the motor is rated at 18 Volts, but has a power range up to 36 Volts? Is this normal for e-motors? Again I'm sorry for possible stupid question! :)
 
eKretz, Yesterday I replaced the two motors of my CSW with two brand new Mabuchi RS555PH purchased on ebay because one of the two stock motors gets burned. With my big surprise I found that the new motors have more than twice power of the old stock motors, although it should be the same. To get same ffb power I had to change the "for" setting from 100 to 40!!! Strange but it's better this way.
Now I have the problem of the auto shutting down when wheel reaches the extremes of its travel.
Could the PSU you suggest solve the problem?
Thanks a lot in advance and sorry for my english.
Enzo.
 
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I meant the voltage...how is it possible, that the motor is rated at 18 Volts, but has a power range up to 36 Volts? Is this normal for e-motors? Again I'm sorry for possible stupid question! :)

Yes, it's normal. The motors are rated nominally in watts - so at a lower voltage they can take more amperage and at a higher voltage they can take less amperage. You might do OK if you lower your FF setting with those motors to limit amperage.
 
eKretz, Yesterday I replaced the two motors of my CSW with two brand new Mabuchi RS555PH purchased on ebay because one of the two stock motors gets burned. With my big surprise I found that the new motors have more than twice power of the old stock motors, although it should be the same. To get same ffb power I had to change the "for" setting from 100 to 40!!! Strange but it's better this way.
Now I have the problem of the auto shutting down when wheel reaches the extremes of its travel.
Could the PSU you suggest solve the problem?
Thanks a lot in advance and sorry for my english.
Enzo.

Yes, you probably got a different armature wind than the stock motors, so they are drawing more amperage. Also if your stock motors were old they were probably considerably weaker than when new. If you get a little more powerful supply that might work but first you need to see what the stall amperage is to make sure you don't cook your PCB. You shouldn't go much over 10 amps or so total. Running more powerful motors without cooling may present you with another problem however - more power = more heat.
 
eKretz, Yesterday I replaced the two motors of my CSW with two brand new Mabuchi RS555PH purchased on ebay because one of the two stock motors gets burned. With my big surprise I found that the new motors have more than twice power of the old stock motors, although it should be the same. To get same ffb power I had to change the "for" setting from 100 to 40!!! Strange but it's better this way.
Now I have the problem of the auto shutting down when wheel reaches the extremes of its travel.
Could the PSU you suggest solve the problem?
Thanks a lot in advance and sorry for my english.
Enzo.

sounds like the same motors i first used as a replacement, iirc the draw samething like >10a at stall.
i warn you though if these are the same motors i first use they burn out even faster than the stock motors. i went through six of them in only a few months (i bought a bulk packof them)
wich killed the PCB eventualy as well
 
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Yes, it's normal. The motors are rated nominally in watts - so at a lower voltage they can take more amperage and at a higher voltage they can take less amperage. You might do OK if you lower your FF setting with those motors to limit amperage.

That makes sense. Thank you very much for your fine explanation and your help in general!

I also wanted to ask you...If the motors work out for me, I will need proper cooling solution. Do you sell your cooling solution separately? Hoses, tubes, quick reease etc.? If so, what would be the costs, with shipping to Austria/Europe?

I guess now it's time for some experimenting...unfortunately I only have time in about 3 Weeks for this project. Can't wait...
If it's done and working, I will be more than ready for the new Fanatec wheel rims. :)
 
That makes sense. Thank you very much for your fine explanation and your help in general!

I also wanted to ask you...If the motors work out for me, I will need proper cooling solution. Do you sell your cooling solution separately? Hoses and tubes to the motors etc.? If so, what would be the costs, with shipping to Austria/Europe?

I guess now it's time for some experimenting...unfortunately I only have time in about 3 Weeks for this project. Can't wait...

Yup, I do. A couple of guys have went with that option. PM me to discuss details.
 
We past the May 23 so is it May 31 when we supposed to pay up for Buhlers or have I misunderstood that perhaps?

Just wanna make sure I have not missed and emails here and made rest of you wait for me, honestly I do not check emails every day
 
I'm ready to rock. Might as well start collecting funds this week. Anyone who wants to jump on board could do so in the next 5 days or so, before we place the order.

Sound like a plan???
 
I was planning to move on it at the end of the month but if you guys are getting impatient then we can get going early as long as we have our 15 guys. Nubrocket sent out an email recently to make sure everyone who is signed up is ready to go.
 
Installed the Buhlers in my CSW over the weekend did a two hour league race tonight. Daytona road course, at night, and it rained. The FF in those tricky low grip conditions was better than I've ever experienced. Strong, smooth and sensitive. Had to turn the 'For' down from 90 to 60 to have the same force feel as the OEM motors.

The increased motor torque is enough to cause the idler pulley to steering shaft belt to slip when turning against the soft limit. Tightened it some so it slips less but I doubt I'll be running the FF high enough for the belt to slip.

Thanks Eric. Well done.
 
You are welcome! Very glad to hear you're enjoying it. That's one more notch on the positive side - and so far none on the negative yet... Besides old Stanley anyways, who hasn't even used this mod, but sure seems to hate it.
 
I'm on the list of 15 and have been known to be extremely impatient especially when it comes to things as serious as my FFB...I CANT WAIT FOR THESE MOTORS TO BE IN MY WHEEL BASE! Whenever you guys are ready I think most of us are ready to pay up and get going for sure.
It would also be nice to send out a comprehensive list of all the parts and hardware that we will need or want to make this a complete package (PSU details, cooling solutions, tools etc.) I realize that most all of this is somewhere in the 70 someone pages of this thread but would be super awesome for the important stuff to be condensed to a single list as a PDF or its own sticky.
Thanks for all of your hard work Eric and all the others in doing the R&D on this platform. I can only imagine how good my Elite will finally be once this kit is installed.
 
Tip: If using an external air pump for Eric's motor mod it might be good to filter the air inlet. I have my pump on the carpeted floor under the pedal box. Gets kinda dirty down there so I attached a light weight athletic sock to the intake fitting. Call me anal but it bugged me to think of air born dirt flowing into the pump and and FF motors.
 
I will work on a little text file with the suggested hardware such as the pump and power supply. The other hardware such as new spacers and fasteners, etc. are included - everything internal to the wheel all the way to the Q.R. fittings where you hook up your external tubing from your air pump. I can post the instructions I send with the kits also if you guys would like. I think it can be uploaded to the Google Drive thing that nubrocket set up.
 
Wondering if using following settings on F1 2013 PS3, will FFB fade?
- 100 FF from wheel and 70 from in-game settings, FOR 100, rest off
If you stop driving (but still in-game) does motors shut down?
 
Wondering if using following settings on F1 2013 PS3, will FFB fade?
- 100 FF from wheel and 70 from in-game settings, FOR 100, rest off
If you stop driving (but still in-game) does motors shut down?

Are you talking about stock motors? You do realize this is the modding thread, right? Lol. I can't help you with that question. I race F1 on PC.
 
Yes i know lol
i take randomly this game as example (you said previously temperature of motors gets hot quicker on GT6)
if you take care about CSW motor and not driving during long sessions, i believe not everyone need to modd and swap these stock motors right?
 
Yes i know lol
i take randomly this game as example (you said previously temperature of motors gets hot quicker on GT6)
if you take care about CSW motor and not driving during long sessions, i believe not everyone need to modd and swap these stock motors right?

I'm not even going to attempt to answer that one. I am so unsure of the stock motors that I don't feel like I can give you an accurate answer.
 
That Huayra is a vicious pig in terms of speed but I have to say the Zonda R sounds much meaner. I think it is my favorite sounding non-F1 sim car.

ooh oke:D really mmmm :odd:

kinda offtopic and i know its the wrong thread but .. but could someone tell me the correct FOV and 3 screens settings for AC ? i use 3x 23inch screens
 
ooh oke:D really mmmm :odd:

kinda offtopic and i know its the wrong thread but .. but could someone tell me the correct FOV and 3 screens settings for AC ? i use 3x 23inch screens

Can't help you with the screens but it sounds like you like the sound of the Huayra better, eh? On my 5.1 system with a beast of a receiver the Zonda sounds much better to me.
 
To all the group buy participants: I'm going to call the distributor today to lock in the details of the group purchase. I will let you know what is going to happen and when after I have made the call.
 

No, I was curious about a comment you replied to earlier from some one on my ignore list, I replied to it as I thought it was so insignificant.
But then I changed my mind as I have better thing to do than exchange with some individuals.:rolleyes:

Note to self, whom ever is on the ignore list is there for a good reason, bothering to try to understand why an odd comment is there in the first place is a waste of my precious time.:lol:
 
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