Fanatec CSW/CSR Elite Modders Thread *UPDATE February 2014*

  • Thread starter eKretz
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How about a simple adapter from CSW/CSR-E shaft hole pattern (is that about 6x25mm, I haven't measured) to 6 x 70mm pattern for your average racing wheel.

Im thinking that I would remove all the original wiring from the shaft and QR and leave the circuit board from my BMW wheel connected just as a dongle to make FFB work. I can add paddles and other button functions by using an USB board from an old joystick or get a custom board like Bodnar for that purpose.

My goal here is to have a sturdy and light wheel to replace the heavy beemer wheel. I like the round model, but Im only using the shift paddles most of the time and QR adds just pointless slop and a fragile connector. The QR is attached to the shaft with thin bolts so Im wondering whether a simple drilled plate would be Ok. Should the adapter have some sleeve to firm things up?

Or if I could just thread the bore in the shaft and use a hollow bolt if I want to route wire thru there.
 
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Do you think its possible to rig up the csw collar to work on the csr elite pcb? I was seriously thinking about it especially with the universal hub

Yes, easily for CSR-E rims. As for whether the actual CSW rims will function with the Elite PCB I couldn't say. Not sure what the extra two wires do function-wise, never bothered to get an actual pin out.
 
So what's the status on our bull order? If that isn't ready would it be possible for me to go ahead and place an order with you Eric? I'm ready to go and money in hand. Just let me know when and where to send payment. I'm taking some time off next week and would love to be able to put together the new motors. Thanks
 
Waiting on a return email from the distributor still. If I don't hear from them by Monday I'm going to call them again. I called Wednesday or Thursday and got an email from them with some questions. Responded and answered all the questions but haven't heard back yet. I had a motor block ready to go because one of my previous orders switched to wanting to buy new motors but it sold already. I don't currently have any motors to offer, that's why we are doing the group purchase. If you want to just try to get a couple motors outside the GP it will cost you $120+ per motor rather than $70 per motor - that's up to you.
 
Yes, easily for CSR-E rims. As for whether the actual CSW rims will function with the Elite PCB I couldn't say. Not sure what the extra two wires do function-wise, never bothered to get an actual pin out.

Do you think the original QR could just be removed? Can you mount the new universal hub directly to base with the five threads that the current QR is using on both sides? Then Id just put that slim QR like Blue028 has on the new hub.

The CSW rims might have (looking at the pictures http://members.iracing.com/jforum/posts/list/3225762.page ) a microcontroller/logic in them to handle the signals from buttons and pots and forward them thru serial/parallel connection to the controller in the base.
 
MMH
Do you think the original QR could just be removed? Can you mount the new universal hub directly to base with the five threads that the current QR is using on both sides? Then Id just put that slim QR like Blue028 has on the new hub.

The CSW rims might have (looking at the pictures http://members.iracing.com/jforum/posts/list/3225762.page ) a microcontroller/logic in them to handle the signals from buttons and pots and forward them thru serial/parallel connection to the controller in the base.

I think you are right on that - there are more buttons/functions than wires for sure. And we know that the rims have onboard PCBs and firmware.

One could possibly mount the universal hub as you surmise but there's no way to tell for sure until we get them in our hands. One negative downside of that though is we lose the ability to use the original formula rim or BMW rim. Those on-wheel controls are kind of nice.

I am considering making a mod that moves the buttons, etc. to the front of the base and going with a plain mechanical quick release also so the lightest rims can be used - sort of like Blue. Maybe take the guts from my spare formula rim to do that and just use the new $100 Fanatec wheel rims all by themselves.
 
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Ok sounds like a plan. Just let me know and we can get squared up first thing next week or whenever you get the goods. Thanks as always

Not sure which you are saying here. You want to go with the GP or say "damn the torpedoes" and buy 2 motors at $120 apiece?
 
Not sure which you are saying here. You want to go with the GP or say "damn the torpedoes" and buy 2 motors at $120 apiece?
I'm thinking damn the torpedoes unless the group order is coming in a couple days from now...if it's going to be a week or longer I'm ready to rock. So approx. $240 will get me everything I need motor wise to have a fully functioning wheel with the new motors? I am still a bit confused on just exactly what I need or what I must have in order for this upgrade to work properly..sorry about my ignorance of this subject. Don't have a lot of extra time to read this entire thread although I sort of keep up..
 
No, $240 would be just the motors themselves. That's why we're doing the GP. To get all the mod work and parts to bolt the motors into your wheel you need to add $220 to the motor cost unless you can do all the machining yourself. Then you'll need the air pump, tubing and power supply if you want to run the motors at full power.
 
So I just got the CSW Mod package from Eric, these were rebuilt Buehlers, not the new ones (and I tested in iRacing as that is what I run the most). The mod package is awesome, definitely increases the feeling you get for what the wheels and steering rack are doing. Also since the torque is so much greater there is much less notching as the motors do not have to use 100% of their torque to give you the feeling of bumps and curbs. I have my force set pretty high, and there is no fade at all, WOW is all I can say. The build quality is amazing, to the point that it actually exposed some problems with the build quality of the Fanatec (as the accuracy of Fanatec's mount holes is not 100%, this was not Eric's fault as even my stock motor mount did not fit correctly either). Another hiccup I had was that I had the first version of the CSW base, which means the first time I turned on my wheel it did not work correctly (and a major rise in blood pressure and heart rate). Eric and his great documentation talk about this though (my wheel calibrated the wrong direction at first so failed calibration) and I realized I needed to change my motor polarity which was an easy five minute fix and everything worked great.

I really appreciated Eric's documentation and visuals along with the detailed step by step instructions. While I do not have the base 100% assembled again (as it really does not matter as my cockpit does not expose the wheel base too much and I wanted to be able try it before I make permanent changes to the case) I have enjoyed running lap after lap with it. While it has not made me faster (nothing will, but I do this for the experience, not the gaming), I have to say that it is dramatic the experience I get in the apex of a corner as I can feel even more the wheels falling off in their grip and can catch the back end sliding out (and in the whole process loosing even more momentum speed, thanks Eric!). The advantage of this is a much better learning experience as I can now run a more consistent laps at the limit, or feel where I am pushing an apex by coming in too hot.

I have a Meanwell power supply and the Medo USA pump. The powersupply is great, very quite, the pump is another story, but there are some things to say about it that are not negative. This is a forced pressure ventilation, the pump is kind of loud, not super loud, but enough you do not want to run it when the sim is turned off as it increases the ambient noise. I have mine placed in a closet right next to my sim and the 1/4" vinyl hose running out to my cockpit. This is great for removing the pump noise, but this exposed another source of noise, the air itself!!! The amount of air being forced through the motor housings creates a very noticeable sound of blowing air. One one hand it sounds like a leak, but then it is re-assuring as you KNOW that those big Buehlers are being cooled off. If you are noise sensitive this will be an issue, I have six ButtKickers along with the eight servo's in my GS-4 SimXperience seat plus my 5.1 speakers or Astro headset so I already have a noisy cockpit (and darn it, isn't racing suppose to be loud... unless you are racing a 2014 F1 V6, hehehe).

As I have said the driving is great, this is the best you can do right now compared to a dedicated Servo motor, and as of right now there is only one solution for that and it cost ~$6-7k. I have been lucky enough to try that wheel and while it is in another league, the comparison for force and torque and the ability to pull the wheel violently is MUCH closer. This will still not rip your hands off the wheel so it is not a wrist breaker, but it is an economically viable option until the other anticipated direct servo wheel comes out this fall.

This requires some ability to mod your wheel, and you HAVE to be comfortable taking your wheel apart and hacking it up. I was very confident though as Eric provides some great support and is THE most responsive person I know to emails. You can tell he does this because he loves racing and our hobby/obsession!

One final important note and one I just really noticed why I like high torque wheels (the Bodnar is the perfect example). In many sims, especially iRacing, when you start to lose your steering in a corner two things happen in the sim: 1. the wheels squeal (audio) and 2. the wheel torque falls off dramatically (physical) as the grip of the front tires is lost. In a low torque wheel (CSW is currently the best wheel in the under $1k range) the amount of torque that you loose as your traction falls off is minimal compared to amount of torque you had at the apex or turn in. This results in the feeling that when your front wheels start to lose their grip, you have to REALLY feel it. In higher torque wheels (and I would put Eric's into this category for the upcoming reason), when the front wheels lose their grip in a turn the fall off for the torque is DRAMATIC, which allows you to catch the spin much much sooner than on the lower torque wheels. I know there are aliens out there that by some gift from above can hear a mouse squeak and know that they have gone past the edge of the envelope for their tires, I am not that gifted though. I really appreciate this mod as I can feel the grip of the tires, and more so when I lose that grip and the torque falls off and the wheel I was holding at that perfect angle is now turning even more and I can catch it.

This was a great mod which I have enjoyed very much and think for the price is well worth it!
 
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Great Tim, super glad that you're enjoying it! I have taken note of the hole issue on some motor mounts and will watch closer for that also in the future. Some of my stock motor mounts were the same and I had trouble getting them to bolt in also. I think they drill and tap the holes before they bend the bracket, so it is not so easy to make sure they stay at the proper distance between holes. Let me know if you have trouble getting that final screw in Tim; as I said if it doesn't work with a little tweaking I'll send you a replacement mount.

Tim also bought the same pump I'm using and a little enclosure helps cut the noise dramatically. Another thing you guys might like to try is running your pump off of a dimmer switch to slow it down a bit. I'm currently getting ready to trial a new rotary pump with a 24VDC brushless motor (should be able to run it off the same power supply as the wheel) that doesn't pulsate.
 
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Like I had said, the motor mount was Fanatec's problem as even the stock mount does not line up correctly at all.

The dimmer on the motor is an interesting idea, but only matters when I am not racing (as it is already in a sound insulating box). I would be interested in knowing how the 24Vdc motor works, especially since if it is low wattage you could run it off the Meanwell power supply's second output.
 
As soon as I get it up and running I will post up. I plan on checking the noise levels side by side of the Medo pump and the new one. The nice thing about the new one also is it will be variable speed and come with a pot to adjust the speed. I believe it will run off the Meanwell, that's another reason I went this direction.
 
As soon as I get it up and running I will post up. I plan on checking the noise levels side by side of the Medo pump and the new one. The nice thing about the new one also is it will be variable speed and come with a pot to adjust the speed. I believe it will run off the Meanwell, that's another reason I went this direction.

Did you ever find a Medo pump in the US? Any chain stores carry them?


Jerome
 
Huh? You're using a Medo pump now. I don't think any chain stores have them but some specialist aquaria stores might. The new pump I'm testing is a Gast. You might be thinking of the pump that @geg1020 is using? I haven't found that one but there might be something very similar made by another manufacturer. There aren't any real good aquarium supply places near me (small city) or I would go have a try at finding a suitable but more quiet replacement. Anybody live in a big city that has a good aquarium shop?
 
Ok guys, didn't hear from the distro today so I emailed again and found out that he's been out of the office all day due to a family medical emergency. He did get back to me via email and will do his best get back to business in the next day or two. He also sent me a couple datasheets for the motors and there are some slight changes from the old to the new but it looks like they should all be improvements. The new motors have a slightly larger motor shaft and also are slightly longer (more torque). He is also going to check if Bühler have any of the older motors as N.O.S. that we can get. I'll keep you updated as I find out more.
 
I'm currently getting ready to trial a new rotary pump with a 24VDC brushless motor (should be able to run it off the same power supply as the wheel) that doesn't pulsate.


I would be interested in the brushless motor setup. I was in the process of looking into doing this myself.
 
Eric, with the new rig I'm building I will be able to hide the pump and everything else in the dashboard. *Using a real GT2 Porsche dash*

Can I send my wheel to you so that when I get it back all I have to do is plug it in?

One caveat. My wheel is one of the original Beta tester wheels, I was a beta tester.

Thanks
 
Sounds good Eric I think I will stick with the GB since it seems close. Is there any possibility of ordering EVERYTHING through you so it all comes at the same time? If not no big deal I can find it all I'm sure through previous posts. Thanks again and can't wait to feel the TORQUE!
 
I would be interested in the brushless motor setup. I was in the process of looking into doing this myself.

The brushless motor is running the pump, you do understand that it's not running the wheel? Just want to be certain I didn't post in an unclear manner and you're misunderstanding. I got the brushless pump spinning last night and it makes a bit of noise with the fittings out, but it quiets down quite a lot with the fitting holes partially covered. I'm going to hook everything up with an intake muffler and give it another go.
 
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Eric, with the new rig I'm building I will be able to hide the pump and everything else in the dashboard. *Using a real GT2 Porsche dash*

Can I send my wheel to you so that when I get it back all I have to do is plug it in?

One caveat. My wheel is one of the original Beta tester wheels, I was a beta tester.

Thanks

Yes, it will cost a bit more if I need to do all the disassembly/assembly but you will also save a little since I can mod your stock parts (motor mount/pulleys) rather than providing new ones. I'll send you a PM after the group buy is under way. I might recommend you update your PCB to the newest one ($50 from Fanatec) but that's up to you.
 
Sounds good Eric I think I will stick with the GB since it seems close. Is there any possibility of ordering EVERYTHING through you so it all comes at the same time? If not no big deal I can find it all I'm sure through previous posts. Thanks again and can't wait to feel the TORQUE!

I don't recommend that people do this unless they really don't care about cost. This would require you to pay shipping twice on several items - to me, then to you. I will get a list made of all necessary stuff to use the mod and add it to the first post soon.
 
Also what kind of modding would I be looking at to replace the stock ELITE wheel with a real Momo race wheel 350mm?

Check out the first post. At the bottom there is a link to a Japanese blogger who did this. I think maybe Fanatec used his work to develop their universal hub.
 
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