Fanatec CSW/CSR Elite Modders Thread *UPDATE February 2014*

  • Thread starter eKretz
  • 3,608 comments
  • 607,307 views
All the relevant specs for the stock motors that I'm aware of are on the first page of this thread. The only thing not there is the stall torque (157mN•m). The only other thing I can tell you is to suggest your combined motors not stall at much, if any, more than 10 amps at 24V. The specs for the Bühler motors are there on the first page too.
 
Guys, big time alert!! Perfect power supplies just showed up on eBay - and looks like he has quite a few!

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mean-Well-S...296?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4d1e931c40

Get 'em while they're hot! There are also a couple other sellers with the same supply but this guy is cheapest and has great (100%) feedback. $33.00 shipped, to me. Total might be a bit different depending on how far away you are from him.
 
OK guys - updated the first post with links to a list of additional necessary items and install instructions. Also a link to the signup form for the GP. The links are at the very end of the first post.

Also - this is part of an email I just sent to the first 5 guys on the list:


Gentlemen,
We are ready for our first set of guys to begin group purchasing! I have gotten the OK from the Bühler USA distributor to order 10 motors (he is still not wanting to let me place the whole order until we do a trial run - they are obsessed with making sure everything will work perfectly) at the GP price, expectant (contingent) upon receiving the order for the rest of the motors after the trial. This email is going to the first five guys on the list only, the rest will have to wait a short while longer.

If you got an email from me you are one of the five. We are ready to begin!
 
Last edited:
Jon Solo
I am reading through this thread...and considering one of my CSR Elite motors is gone...as well as my warranty, this seems like perfect timing! I am not sure what to do, but it seems like I need to get in on a group buy!
Click to expand...

BTW, you need to sign up if you want to participate...the link is added to the end of the first post in this thread.
 
eKretz
Guys, big time alert!! Perfect power supplies just showed up on eBay - and looks like he has quite a few!

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mean-Well-S...296?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4d1e931c40

Get 'em while they're hot! There are also a couple other sellers with the same supply but this guy is cheapest and has great (100%) feedback. $33.00 shipped, to me. Total might be a bit different depending on how far away you are from him.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the heads up! The order has been placed.
 
Hello there!

Sorry for being a first poster and already asking for help, but I thought you have great knowledge of CSW at this point. Yesterday I was playing with the wheel just fine, today as I come home and start the wheel up, the calibration stops after the wheel turning all the way to the right. And it's stuck there, not recognized by my PC. I tried reconnecting to power and USB and tried a firmware update even but nothing helps. I seriously ordered this wheel about 2 weeks ago and there I am done.

Another problem with the clutch that it's spiking hardly from startup. All the way from 0 to 100% constantly. Sometimes it stops for a few seconds but it's kinda useless. The throttle and brake works fine for the first few hours, but after playing for a while, the brake starts acting crazy and randomly, like the load-cell is giving up for some reasons and sometiems gets stuck after pressing it flat out. Same with the throttle although it starts not maxing out despite flatting the pedal out, it simply goes up to 95%. The brake and throttle are perfectly fine after a restart of the wheel though, it still worries me that I can't use it for longer races or longer sessions.

So what should I do for now? My whole set is useless since the PC doesn't recognize it, after the wheel gets stuck facing the right side. Any options or is it a warranty asap?
 
WarLock0722
Hello there!

Sorry for being a first poster and already asking for help, but I thought you have great knowledge of CSW at this point. Yesterday I was playing with the wheel just fine, today as I come home and start the wheel up, the calibration stops after the wheel turning all the way to the right. And it's stuck there, not recognized by my PC. I tried reconnecting to power and USB and tried a firmware update even but nothing helps. I seriously ordered this wheel about 2 weeks ago and there I am done.

Another problem with the clutch that it's spiking hardly from startup. All the way from 0 to 100% constantly. Sometimes it stops for a few seconds but it's kinda useless. The throttle and brake works fine for the first few hours, but after playing for a while, the brake starts acting crazy and randomly, like the load-cell is giving up for some reasons and sometiems gets stuck after pressing it flat out. Same with the throttle although it starts not maxing out despite flatting the pedal out, it simply goes up to 95%. The brake and throttle are perfectly fine after a restart of the wheel though, it still worries me that I can't use it for longer races or longer sessions.

So what should I do for now? My whole set is useless since the PC doesn't recognize it, after the wheel gets stuck facing the right side. Any options or is it a warranty asap?
Click to expand...


I'd recommend a warranty replacement on the wheel and your pedals. The sooner you get in touch with them, the better. Also, make a short video showing what happens with the wheel and pedals as they normally ask for that as proof and I'm sure they collect info about it. However, keep in mind sometimes their support takes a week or more to respond, sometimes within a couple days, but I'd plan on a week before you hear back from them and I'd request an RMA in your first email so hopefully they will get one started for you in the first reply email. Fanatec products are great when they work and aren't when they don't. Good luck!


Jerome
 
I can't really send proof of my pedals malfunctioning though, hence the Wheel not wanting to startup still, and I can't really make an hour long sessions to show my throttle/brakes along with the clutch, without the wheel. I'm not sure how good they are at answering the phone, but I might even call them tomorrow and hope for the best. Now I still have some faith that someone here knows a solution for the wheel problems.

PS.: I tried about 25 more times with the startup procedure and
 
@WarLock0722 it's possible that you have a faulty or dirty position sensor, but I'd get them going on the warranty coverage rather than mess with it yourself. Regarding your issue that only happens after lengthy racing, I'd just keep the camera ready every time you race so you can catch the evidence when it happens - as soon as you notice it grab the camera and take a video.
 
My CSW is almost done now, just back cover and drawing of air lines and some small stuff to do.

Although tested it out for 3 laps in F1 2013 @Australia yesterday before going to bed after doing some work all day and initial thoughts were, wow, just wow!

Will get back later on when driven some more. Good stuff eKretz, good stuff indeed that belt just slip when forcing wheel to a halt so strong compared to stock motors. :dopey:
 
currito
Hello everyone. This is my first post at this forum.
I found this motor signed by Johnson Electric pretty similar. Please check http://disti-assets.s3.amazonaws.com/testco-inc/files/datasheets/16795.pdf
Could this motor replace our Mabuchis?
Thanks mates
Click to expand...

Possibly but there are a few considerations:

1.) Not as strong as the Bühler motors
2.) Probably not as reliable as Bühlers
3.) The cost I found for the Johnson motor looks to be about $40 per motor unless you do a bulk purchase. I for one would rather have the Bühler motors for a little more.
4.) That motor stalls at higher amperage than stock - which means it's going to develop more heat than stock and almost certainly heat fade and probably burn up like stock unless you beef up the cooling.

But go ahead and buy a set and try them out - let us know what you think!
 
I was just considering if they could be a right replacement :)
Otherwise, air or water cooling? Can we use a standard pc water cooling (radiator+pump) with a jacket on the motor?
- Water cons: leakage, expensive? / advantages: efficient, quiet
- Air cons: noisier, less efficient / advs: easier, no additional psu required, cheaper?
What do you think mates?
 
Although a water jacket just cover the outside/walls of motor while air lead hot air away from internal parts so could be up for discussion what is more effective right? Just my 2c have not tried water but yeah other then that it is appealing cause of the noise from air pump
 
currito
Could a brushless motor be a cooler replace?:confused:
Click to expand...

No not the way the firmware and power supply are set up. Fanatec have the motors pulling almost their full stall current unless you turn the FF setting down. The only way to get motors to survive this and not fade or self-destruct is to use the stoutest, best-made motors you can find and keep them as cool as possible. If Fanatec had done things a little differently it would have made things a lot simpler. If we could access the firmware and write our own we could drop the maximum current to the motors and boost the low end a bit to get perfect linearity and low heat so we probably could get away with either a near silent air pump or maybe even just use the fan cooling. Especially if making a switch to brushless since the armature on a brushless is basically swapped with the brushed motor. The magnets are on the motor shaft and the coils are on the inside of the can outside of the magnets mounted on the motor shaft. That makes it a lot easier to cool the wire, (especially would make a water jacket on the can much more efficient) where most of the heat is coming from.
 
eKretz
Guys, big time alert!! Perfect power supplies just showed up on eBay - and looks like he has quite a few!

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mean-Well-S...296?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4d1e931c40

Get 'em while they're hot! There are also a couple other sellers with the same supply but this guy is cheapest and has great (100%) feedback. $33.00 shipped, to me. Total might be a bit different depending on how far away you are from him.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the link eKretz! Power Supply is order, paid, and being shipping soon.
 
Hi eKretz,
I'm following this discussion for months, but I have never been sure of spending 200€ for two motors (I'm a CSR Elite owner, and it works fine). Now, after 2 Mabuchi changed on my other wheels (a CSR standard and a GT2), I've decided to change the motors of my CSR Elite. But I want a more reliable and more powerful, but I don't know what motor I can take. I saw these motors on eBay, two Buhler 1.13.046.418 , here: http://www.ebay.it/itm/Buhler-Motor-18V-9-36V-1-13-046-416-2-Stuck-/221279949424
The specs are these:
Buhler type 1.13.046.418
Operating voltage 18V (9-36V)
Collector: copper 7 piece
No load current: 150 mA
Load current: 1.5 A
Max Power Output: 29W
Torque: 60 MNCM
Speed: 3000 rpm
Dimensions: approx d40 x L80 mm
Axis d: 4 mm l 15 mm with belt drive (front) d: 4 mm x 13 mm (rear)
2x ball bearings
Weight: 390g
So, these motors can be installed in my CSR Elite or they are not suitable?
Thanks...
 
Get in on the group buy and you can get two motors for €111. The motor you have posted will not fit without machining - just like the ones we use with the mod - and the relevant important specs aren't listed.
 
@eKretz, i am interested but i live in Europe

1. Could you give me an estimate for the buhlers shipped to the netherlands?

I understand that for optimal performance the Buhlers need to be aircooled, but i'm pretty sensative to noise

2. If i understood right, you will be sending out complete motorpacks? Would it also be possible to run them without the aircooling on the standard Power supply?
3. If 2 is possible how would the rate the buhlers (strength/torc) vs the standard Fanabuchi's?
4. Is there an estimated shipping date for the group buy?
 
HoiHman
@eKretz, i am interested but i live in Europe

1. Could you give me an estimate for the buhlers shipped to the netherlands?

I understand that for optimal performance the Buhlers need to be aircooled, but i'm pretty sensative to noise

2. If i understood right, you will be sending out complete motorpacks? Would it also be possible to run them without the aircooling on the standard Power supply?
3. If 2 is possible how would the rate the buhlers (strength/torc) vs the standard Fanabuchi's?
4. Is there an estimated shipping date for the group buy?
Click to expand...

PM'ed you.
 
eKretz
Get in on the group buy and you can get two motors for €111. The motor you have posted will not fit without machining - just like the ones we use with the mod - and the relevant important specs aren't listed.
Click to expand...

Ok, i could be interested to buy them......but I have some questions:
-When will you send the motors and what's the final price with the shipping?
-I have to buy anything else over the motors to complete the mod? (and how much I have to spend in total?)
-I read that with the standard power supply the motors don't work over 80% FF, with a 30V power supply the problem is solved? And what are the specs of the power supply that I should buy?

Thanks, and congratulations for the mod 👍

EDIT: Another question....the correct motors are the 1.13.044.401 or .404?
 
Last edited:
Guys, all that info is on the front page of this thread, at the end of the first post. The motors that are most often found are the 404's, but the new motor we will be getting through the GB has a new number: 1.13.049.402.

You can buy just the motors if you want to do the machining yourself, that is completely up to you. There is a good bit involved to make them fit - if you don't have access to at least a metal turning lathe you won't be able to make these work very well if at all.
 
Last edited:

Similar threads

P
Replacing motor in Logitech G920
Replies
13
Views
17K
aero_360
A
S
  • Question
T300 wheel "slipping" when turning to the left.
Replies
0
Views
649
SaltedOnion
S
S
Help with Logitech g920!!!!
Replies
0
Views
3K
skippyenthalp
S
I
Drive hub + csw 2.0
Replies
2
Views
416
igorp4561
I
hawkeyez
Logitech G923 rattle fix
Replies
26
Views
20K
hawkeyez
hawkeyez

Latest Posts

Back