Fanatec CSW/CSR Elite Modders Thread *UPDATE February 2014*

  • Thread starter eKretz
  • 3,608 comments
  • 607,324 views
Needing some help… I bought Mabuchi RS 555PH and installed them in my wheel. Either I missed something or the motor are not correct. When I turn on the wheel base the motors only spin in one direction? Did I purchase the wrong motor or did I hook them up wrong?
 
Last edited:
Reverse your motor wires' polarity. In other words, switch the red and black wires. The wheel should spin clockwise first during calibration. If you have it backwards the wheel will spin counter-clockwise and hit the stop and stay there.

Do take note that those are not the same armature wind as the stock motors. Stockers are RS555PH-22130.
 
eKretz
Reverse your motor wires' polarity. In other words, switch the red and black wires. The wheel should spin clockwise first during calibration. If you have it backwards the wheel will spin counter-clockwise and hit the stop and stay there.

Do take note that those are not the same armature wind as the stock motors. Stockers are RS555PH-22130.
Click to expand...


They are spinning clockwise and hit the stop and stay there. I even tried switching the red and black wires with same outcome just in the opposite direction

I thought there was something I was missing but I went over the connections about 10 times and with the same outcome. The motors are stronger than the stock ones and suppose to operate on 9 - 30VDC
 
Last edited:
OK, check that you have your sensors plugged in correctly, and that they are not swapped. The ones on the board are marked ZERO and POS. The ZERO one should go to the hall effect sensor (the metal pin passes through this one) and the POS one should go to the photodiode (U-shaped and wrapped around the encoder wheel). If that is all plugged in properly you may have a damaged photodiode.
 
eKretz
OK, check that you have your sensors plugged in correctly, and that they are not swapped. The ones on the board are marked ZERO and POS. The ZERO one should go to the hall effect sensor (the metal pin passes through this one) and the POS one should go to the photodiode (U-shaped and wrapped around the encoder wheel). If that is all plugged in properly you may have a damaged photodiode.
Click to expand...


I will follow your suggestion when I get home today and report back. Thank you!
 
eKretz
Lol. Tip: Your pump already has a filter built-in if you're using the one I recommended.

:D
Click to expand...
Yup, got the used Medo pump and you're right it does have an internal filter. Didn't know that.

Sometimes its good to risk being wrong to learn what's right. :)
 
Well, I tried switching the cables and nether way worked. A while back the manufacture did send me a code wheel sensor (U-shaped and wrapped around the encoder wheel) since my old one wasn’t centering the wheel correctly, but never used it because the wiring was too short. That’s the only other part replaced in my base. Guessing the part they sent me was wrong, probably why it was too short to begin with.

Once I receive my new wheel I’ll test that sensor and see if that resolves my problem.
 
Nope. Sign up. It won't be too late until the order is placed. And even if somebody misses the first group buy round we can always do another. I will probably try to buy at least a few pairs of extra motors also just to have some spares on hand.
 
Hey all, I was fiddling with my base tonight and happened to remember a guy on iRacing mentioning that his CSW's power switch LEDs were changing colors and independently showing different color patterns. Some of the other guys on iRacing surmised that it must be something added in the newer wheels. I can tell you definitively that it's in the older wheels also - as I've had mine for ages and as you can clearly see it has the RGB LEDs. This means that theoretically it is possible to change the LEDs to any color or combination of colors if there is a way to control them somehow. Anybody have an SDK for the CSW? @K_Soze I'm thinking of you!





 
Last edited:
Aaaand one more thing. I have another set of refurb motors here whose former owner decided to switch to a set of the new motors in the group buy. If anyone's interested get in touch.

Edit: Gone.
 
Last edited:
eKretz
Hey all, I was fiddling with my base tonight and happened to remember a guy on iRacing mentioning that his CSW's power switch LEDs were changing colors and independently showing different color patterns. Some of the other guys on iRacing surmised that it must be something added in the newer wheels. I can tell you definitively that it's in the older wheels also - as I've had mine for ages and as you can clearly see it has the RGB LEDs. This means that theoretically it is possible to change the LEDs to any color or combination of colors if there is a way to control them somehow. Anybody have an SDK for the CSW? @K_Soze I'm thinking of you!





Click to expand...
No sorry, I am not working on car related game :)
Is the SDK available for anyone ?
 
eKretz
Hey all, I was fiddling with my base tonight and happened to remember a guy on iRacing mentioning that his CSW's power switch LEDs were changing colors and independently showing different color patterns. Some of the other guys on iRacing surmised that it must be something added in the newer wheels. I can tell you definitively that it's in the older wheels also - as I've had mine for ages and as you can clearly see it has the RGB LEDs. This means that theoretically it is possible to change the LEDs to any color or combination of colors if there is a way to control them somehow. Anybody have an SDK for the CSW? @K_Soze I'm thinking of you!





Click to expand...
When you hold the power button for I think 20 seconds or so it will turn blue for reflashing the firmware or something. forget exactly now.
 
eKretz, did you follow the fanatec news on new wheel rims, static shifter paddles and universal QR hub systems so we can use our own wheel rims from the car junkyard ... and with luck maybe a bit more forgiving for the stock mabuchi motors?? :lol:

and yes!! you are right:D the zonda is truly a vicious beast.. pffff:P
 
Last edited:
I did, it's been interesting to see all the developments. I'm glad that they came out with something like this. I also think I'm going to work on a quick release mechanism/device for the rim to hub interface so we don't lose that functionality. I am interested to see what the weight of the hub is though.
 
I'm thinking more along the lines of something that doesn't add any more distance between the hub and the wheel. 2 QR's seems to be a lot of opportunity for slop to be introduced.
 
Last edited:
two QR's or such distances doesn't seem to add much stability to me either:indiff: maybe completely change the elite axle for a QR axle from a broken/incomplete CSW base:idea: or isn't this possible:confused:
 
bruzski
two QR's or such distances doesn't seem to add much stability to me either:indiff: maybe completely change the elite axle for a QR axle from a broken/incomplete CSW base:idea: or isn't this possible:confused:
Click to expand...
This would be doable I think with a little tweaking but might not be cheap. The only thing really needed I think is the collar though, not the whole shaft. Used CSW bases go for $150+ from what I have seen, even incomplete/non-working. But the QR mechanism I'm talking about would be for holding the wheel rim to the universal hub, to make it easier/quicker to swap just the rim itself.
 
The amount of wires inside the steering axis is different in the csr-r to the csw I think, csr has 10 I think the csw has more, can someone confirm? if they are different (it would be hard to wire up I think) you would probably need to change the pcb in the base to get the functionality of the csw rims
 
IMAG0627_zpsaetzfihx.jpg
.

IMAG0628_zps20ld5uur.jpg


Here is the slim QR, I used a flat piece of metal to bolt onto the shaft then an adaptor (to adapt 70mm-74mm pcd or vice versa) which has threaded holes so I was able to just bolt the QR straight to that.

Here is the finnished rim with paddle shifters I made

IMAG0632_zpsoyptlsk0.jpg


IMAG0634_zpsalgxfyzm.jpg


IMAG0635_zpsckgazqnt.jpg


I managed to pick up a couple brocken csr rims that I though t I would make something out of now that imm getting a bot more confident in my electronic capabilities

Gonna have to do this in 2 posts, phone being dodgy
 
Last edited:
IMAG0638_zpsce5li1eb.jpg


IMAG0639_1_zpswc3d7xvl.jpg


I wanted a formula rim but after contacting fanatec and finding they are unwilling to sell me one I settled for adapting the standard csr rim, the pcb has been damaged but with any luck I should be able to patch it up.

IMAG0636_zpsnwq4dziw.jpg


This one is just to add the LCD and a few buttons to a rim. Although the pcb for this one has had the connector ripped clean off the board so I'm going to hard wire it back up (hopefully)

IMAG0640_1_zps77klzgu1.jpg


All this means I will have the rewire all the connections in the wheel I made previously for the paddle shifters so that I can get them fully functional but I'm reasonably confident I can do it. I also plan on covering all the polished alloy of the csr rims with carbon fibre to make them look a bit snazzier
 
Blue028
The amount of wires inside the steering axis is different in the csr-r to the csw I think, csr has 10 I think the csw has more, can someone confirm? if they are different (it would be hard to wire up I think) you would probably need to change the pcb in the base to get the functionality of the csw rims
Click to expand...

CSW 12 wires
CSR-E 10 wires
 

Similar threads

P
Replacing motor in Logitech G920
Replies
13
Views
17K
aero_360
A
S
  • Question
T300 wheel "slipping" when turning to the left.
Replies
0
Views
649
SaltedOnion
S
S
Help with Logitech g920!!!!
Replies
0
Views
3K
skippyenthalp
S
I
Drive hub + csw 2.0
Replies
2
Views
416
igorp4561
I
hawkeyez
Logitech G923 rattle fix
Replies
26
Views
20K
hawkeyez
hawkeyez

Latest Posts

Back