Fanatec CSW/CSR Elite Modders Thread *UPDATE February 2014*

  • Thread starter eKretz
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Assuming one of you guys will know this! What's the best way to repair the fabric coming away from the wheel on the CSR? (Specifically the section on the right side of the rim)

I've used google and found a medium contact adhesive is best. Is it a case of sticking it back with the wheel assembled or can the plastic grip be removed to do a better job?
 
single motor specs;

model no. 1.13.044.428
24V - ~13A stall
no load current 210mA
5000rpm no load @24V
the can is 103mm long by 52mm diameter

unfortunatly i cant find the torque ratings
the motor on ebay goes for about $30 and is listed as a brand new item.

EDIT: how does one go about getting the wheelcheck program?
 
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Assuming one of you guys will know this! What's the best way to repair the fabric coming away from the wheel on the CSR? (Specifically the section on the right side of the rim)

I've used google and found a medium contact adhesive is best. Is it a case of sticking it back with the wheel assembled or can the plastic grip be removed to do a better job?

you can probably get it stuck back on neater if you take the platic apart, even replace the material if you really wanted too
 
single motor specs;

model no. 1.13.044.428
24V - ~13A stall
no load current 210mA
5000rpm no load @24V
the can is 103mm long by 52mm diameter

unfortunatly i cant find the torque ratings
the motor on ebay goes for about $30 and is listed as a brand new item.

EDIT: how does one go about getting the wheelcheck program?


Is it this one:

http://www.goldmine-elec-products.com/prodinfo.asp?number=G19615

Although what´s up with the price here?

$12 ??? Sounds too good to be true right, so what am I missing here?
 
Hehe, like thirty bucks wasn't? Makes you wonder why Fanatec couldn't pony up the extra $8 it would have taken. That's retail price, and for only 1 unit!!

Surely there's a reason why the T500 uses a specific motor that costs around $100 though.
 
OK glad I found it then, although they only ship to 7 nations (US included) + minimum order is $50.

Would only be fair to add that information but yeah the price was amazing makes me wonder why??
 
This single motor is not really as easy as the twin setup, you can't use the standard bracket or even have the wheel inside its normal case. Using the twin buhler setup will be easier, and it's a really nice improvement over stock

Yeah agreed Blue028, and may I say what an improvement it is indeed!

Have run a few hours in total with Erics Buhler mod installed now and can say it was really easy to install, very very detailed instructions with pics inside the package when it arrived so no real confusion about installing them.
Although I did go for the complete package including new bracket, pulleys etc, had the air pump (15-25l/m depending on pressure resistance, aka: dual diaphragm 15w) + power supply MW NES-350-24) with DC cord/plug for pcb at home already so just hooked it up and ready to go.

The difference is quite amazing, in a way it´s like a totally new wheel all together in terms of strength cause the FF is so much stronger, I´ll even say even stronger then I first anticipated before order. With that being said I don´t run at full FF like I did back with stock motors cause it´s not needed now, don´t even have heat fading anymore which is great cause but then again I don´t have the stock thermistor hooked up to motors. In case anyone wanna order thermistor to go with those Buhlers my multimeter said 10K Ohm so that´s what I order + 1.25mm M JST 2 pin connector just to be on the safe side.

At first I notice some lack of sensitivity from the wheel but after spoken to Eric I found out it´s my fault, to much tension on the belt I did the mistake of trying to tighten it up as much as I can. I did that cause when hitting software stop on wheel belt just kept slipping uncontrollably from the power of those Buhlers, did not think about the fact that it won´t happen like that when playing in games so loosen it up a bit and so far all seams great.
I´m very happy with this mod, I´m quite poor so I took a hit when order this mod but it´s so worth it, every penny of it you will not regret it if you take the jump and order imho! It´s not just that it´s more resistance in wheel but everything gets amplified with this mod obviously, like for example hitting curbs or going off road you can truly feel it in the wheel a lot better now.

Sorry for my English do not really have the vocabulary to express what I feel but if your one of those who consider this but in doubt, well don´t doubt it anymore it really makes such a difference and you don´t have to do any machining at all if you go for full package like I did it´s easier then building IKEA furniture and faster done too I think. :D

Sure glad I found this thread and thank you GTPlanet community cause it made my Fanatec CSW what it should have been form day, could not be happier with wheel atm!
 
I agree 100%, the only reason I'm experimenting with the single motor is because I actually really like tinkering with the wheel :P and also one of the twin buglers suffered a fatality, pretty sure it has stemmed from running them with no cooling at the beginning but I will be getting more of the twin buhlers once the group order goes through.
 
I agree 100%, the only reason I'm experimenting with the single motor is because I actually really like tinkering with the wheel :P and also one of the twin buglers suffered a fatality, pretty sure it has stemmed from running them with no cooling at the beginning but I will be getting more of the twin buhlers once the group order goes through.

Yeah I can understand the mod part, if you have access to space, tools and time I can see the fun in that.

Sorry to hear about the Buhler gone dead on you, I was tempted to run low FF without the noisy air pump as well but since I had the air pump already I did not dare to and now reading that I´m glad I did not. Thanks for that info appreciate it and should act as a warning for us who are tempted to run noise less skipping the pump.

I mean when you take those Buhlers in your hand you immediately notice the weight and quality build, you simply cannot miss that part compared to stock Fanabuchis imho cause they feel like little Chinese cheap motors in comparison which they are I suppose. Feels like some proper industry quality to the Buhlers though and watching pics from inside them kinda back it up if any doubt, my point is it´s hard to believe it´s easy to kill these motors but lots of heat can probably do it I suppose so sorry one died on you and again thanks for sharing that info to rest of us.
 
Yeah, I'm not going to work on the single motor approach unless I get a special request on an individual basis. The setup we have now fits in the wheel base nicely for the most part and that seems to be pretty important to a lot of guys. On top of that, those motors are not cheap either - once the surplus supply runs out we'll be in the same spot we were with the dual motors - needing to buy new ones. I also see that the minimum starting voltage is more than double the smaller Bühler motors - so I'd guess the bigger motor will have an even bigger hole in the linearity as I predicted earlier. Lastly, the current dual setup has a proven track record and are holding up very well; how's that saying go? If it ain't broke, etc.
 
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I just want to publicly thank eKretz for providing a real solution for the failing motors of the Fanatec CSR-E/CSW model line. Thanks to eKretz my CSR-E is not a $550 paper weight it would be today since Fanatec does not sell replacement motors (even though they claim they do).

Although I have had eKretz Buhler kit for my CSR-E since early March, it was not until this last weekend I installed them as I was waiting for my current set of Fanatec ‘V2’ stock motors to fail again which they did after about a year of use.

Installation was fairly easy since I had experience in changing the motor block already. I have the air pump for cooling installed in my basement under the floor of my cockpit with a short airline running to the back of the wheel from the floor. Since the air pump is plugged in to a basement outlet I use a remote controlled power strip to power it on and off from my cockpit.

I am using a eBay 360 watt 24V Chinese power supply (looks exactly like the Mean Well) to power the wheel.

I’m not going to go much in to how different it feels (it feels better), just that eKrterz’s solution really compliments the wheel. The motors are stronger, more precise feeling and have bearings which makes the whole system feel smoother.

Dealing with eKretz was a pleasure and I would not hesitate to recommend his services to anyone.

Thanks eKretz!
 
Does anyone know where I can buy that 4 pin Molex connector shown below?

IMG_20140113_175148.jpg
 
Funny how easily you find things just knowing the proper name… Thanks eKretz!
you will soon learn that eKretz knows everything about that wheelbase...
...and it is JST...they do the main 12pin ZH connector in there as well...
i have not found the main 12pin cable though
 
OK glad I found it then, although they only ship to 7 nations (US included) + minimum order is $50.

Would only be fair to add that information but yeah the price was amazing makes me wonder why??

That site is surplus secondhand items. Fanatec would have had to buy the motors new, and they wouldn't be anywhere near $8 - let alone $30 - brand new from Bühler.
 
That site is surplus secondhand items. Fanatec would have had to buy the motors new, and they wouldn't be anywhere near $8 - let alone $30 - brand new from Bühler.

Ok thanks my friend, felt there had to be something cause it was just too cheap to be true hehe..

I´m glad at least you can find somewhat cheap Buhlers on Ebay and such sites but that´s only for the guys (like you) who know exactly what they are doing and can fully understand the specs to match up with the rest of the wheel, if they can find them that is?

For us not so tech savvy guys it´s amazing we can get the hole package through you cause I would not even dare to try modding myself without knowledge just trying taking chances and buying stuff online hoping it will fit and work well, that could easily become more expensive in the long run and it will jeopardize the wheel itself and at least mine is still under warranty.

...or was I should add I guess I kinda burnt that when mounting my Buhlers, although I knew it would work and be an improvement so no biggie really, like you said they are tested and we know what we get at this point.
So happy I took the step and bought the hole package directly from you, only thing I would change if I could would have been to find this site and buy it earlier! :sly:
 
Haha, there are many motors available surplus, but that window narrows considerably when you're looking for a motor that fits the specs we need. And even further when you are looking for a known good and very reliable brand of motor. I saw a very good candidate on that surplus site a few weeks back but they were already sold out when I tried to purchase a couple. The motor in question sells for $300 each new. EG had them for $30.
 
Haha, there are many motors available surplus, but that window narrows considerably when you're looking for a motor that fits the specs we need. And even further when you are looking for a known good and very reliable brand of motor. I saw a very good candidate on that surplus site a few weeks back but they were already sold out when I tried to purchase a couple. The motor in question sells for $300 each new. EG had them for $30.

Yeah that´s about what I was trying to say but vocabulary is not enough, to find the correct one and know that is the right one + will work for our needs can be tricky and me personally would not wanna take a chance even if I find really cheap Buhlers anywhere online. Although with that being said should I find any extremely cheap that are refurbs or even newI will tell you guys + perhaps even buy a few myself I suppose. Can be nice to have playing around with or find other use for if they do not work for this particular application right? I know some cheapo chinese DC motors looking like the Fanabuchis are being used in cordless tools like drills, wind generators and such applications but should not a Buhler be superior even for that?
 
Yeah, in most cases you won't find another motor that is better than the Bühler for peanuts unless they're surplus. I'd steer clear of the no-name Chinese stuff unless you just like taking your wheel apart to change them and having downtime from racing every time they fail. To me, buying those is "penny-wise pound-foolish" as they say.
 
Agreed better stick to what we know work and been tested properly right..

I would not wanna change a thing in my wheel atm really cause don´t really think it can be much better for that kinda money, yes I would like a monster single motor wheel like those really expensive high end gear but this feels like a sweet spot for most people demanding a good wheel on a budget that is possible for blue color people at this point.

Who knows maybe in the future we will have a DIY solution, controller board running some free and available software + motor etc but then again those big motors are really pricey as well so I guess that kinda explains why they do cost so much. For now I´m really happy with your mod and thankful you have the interest, knowledge and time on your hands.

So curious about the centrifugal pump you testing out and looking forward for the results later on, that´s the only drawback with the mod, the noise. But we all different and some might not even care that much, me I´m sensitive to noise so play with headphones on now to cut most of it out. Wish we had DC motors that could be effectively cooled form the outside using a water jacket but you cannot have it all I guess? :D
 
Yeah, well even the rotary pump makes a good bit of noise. I'm working on minimizing that now. What would be really awesome would be to circulate nonconductive liquid through the inside of the motors like I'm doing with air now! I've tried a few experiments with it but it's not practical since I can't keep the motors liquid-tight.
 
Yeah, well even the rotary pump makes a good bit of noise. I'm working on minimizing that now. What would be really awesome would be to circulate nonconductive liquid through the inside of the motors like I'm doing with air now! I've tried a few experiments with it but it's not practical since I can't keep the motors liquid-tight.
And liquid cooling will increase friction. Soon a mineral oil wheel cooling (like some PC ;) )
 

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