Fanatec CSW/CSR Elite Modders Thread *UPDATE February 2014*

[superslowme]

Very sorry to hear that Blue, hope you can get it going again. Whether mosfets or something else can they be swapped out?

Not directly related so sorry about this but here is a guy in Hong Kong who make these replacements PCB´s for Laying DDC pumps:

http://www.diyinhk.com/shop/6-ddc-pump

I have bought the one who use the Toshiba TB6588FG controller and it not only bring new life to a dead Laying DDC style pump but it improve everything about it from built in security, stronger etc.. etc.. + they are cheap!
Yeah I know it´s not exactly a forum for Laying DDC pumps but I wonder, is there nobody out there who does same thing but for CSW pcb´s instead? With the right skills it should not be that hard but perhaps there is no market for it?

 

[nubrocket]

I go through bouts of thinking about selling my CSR-E, but looking forward to this mod makes me hang on to it. I don't get to use it much these days but I intend to get into it again someday! Until then the wheel and CS Shifter just mock me. The good in all of this is that it allows me patience in buying these mod parts piecemeal in anticipation of the day that I have time to put it all together again.

 

[Blue028]

Is there a way to measure the MOFSETs to find if there are any faults? Visually I can't spot anything out of the ordinary

 

[eKretz]

What do you have available for equipment? If you have a multimeter with a diode check mode you can compare them to each other and look for any difference. Is not an easy thing to check sometimes because as you check the multimeter is applying a small voltage and current, so the numbers can move around a little bit. Good practice is to use a jumper wire to short across the terminals you check every time before you apply the multimeter probes. (This of course only with NO power applied to the PCB).

 

[superslowme]

Fanatec do sell the PCB as well right?

Though I saw that somewhere but cannot remember and if so how much?

 

[eKretz]

Yup. It can take quite a bit if pestering to get one though. Cost is $50 plus shipping.

 

[Blue028]

Yes, the one I was using was one I bought from them, from memmory it was $60aud

 

[yttam2]

Hi,
the Buhler 1.13.044.236 (t500rs' motor) is suitable to be mounted on the Elite? I would try a single motor mod with this motor, but first i would be sure that it's compatible. Thanks

 

[Blue028]

Hi,
the Buhler 1.13.044.236 (t500rs' motor) is suitable to be mounted on the Elite? I would try a single motor mod with this motor, but first i would be sure that it's compatible. Thanks

its very similar to the motor im using now, and it will not be an easy swap over. i had to make a custom bracket to mount the motor and the shaft size is much bigger than the standard motors so the pulleys need to be modified. also because the motor is so long the PCB cannot be mounted in the standard position. being a single pulley it will also side much further to the side than standard (making it imposible to have the power and xbox buttons mounted in the normal position, and even have the fan in the right side cover) unless you get a shorter belt or add an idler pulley to remove some slack.
then you would also need a better power supply and a more efficient way to cool the motor.

 

[eKretz]

It may also be too much current at stall for the PCB to reliably handle. IIRC it will be very similar to the single Bühler motor that Blue028 is running now.

 

[Blue028]

Eric do you know what currents the PCB are able to safely handle?

 

[yegor]

Hey guys,

I just received the replacement motors from Fanatec. Can you verify if these are the same as the first-batch faulty ones, or they are an improved version?

 

[Cote Dazur]

35$ for the all kit, it sounds like a very good deal, if you applie air cooling to them they might last forever, who knows!

 

[eKretz]

Hey guys,

I just received the replacement motors from Fanatec. Can you verify if these are the same as the first-batch faulty ones, or they are an improved version?

There's no way to tell from external appearance. You'll just have to try them out and see what happens.

 

[eKretz]

Eric do you know what currents the PCB are able to safely handle?

I would not push the board much harder than 10-12 amps max for any length of time unless you modify or add components. For max reliability I'd recommend sticking to 10A or below.

 

[yegor]

35$ for the all kit, it sounds like a very good deal, if you applie air cooling to them they might last forever, who knows!

The total was around $52 with shipping and tax. I bought another set which added $37.

 

[yegor]

There's no way to tell from external appearance. You'll just have to try them out and see what happens.

Thanks Eric!

I apologize for using this thread to receive answers, but I am having a little difficulty understanding what's the proper way of adjusting the belt tension. Can you guys "translate" this?

Fanatec's instructions:

The right way to set the belt tension is to set it hard first. Then you losen up only 2 or 3 screws and you continuously loosen the belt tension but after every step you turn the wheel against force (set sen to 90° and overturn this soft stop). You losen it that far until the noise comes up. Then you tighten it a little bit more by just pushing the screws semi tightened to the right. When the noise is gone the tension is perfect even if some slipping is still there which is perfectly normal by design.

 

[eKretz]

Thanks Eric!

I apologize for using this thread to receive answers, but I am having a little difficulty understanding what's the proper way of adjusting the belt tension. Can you guys "translate" this?

Fanatec's instructions:

Not sure what they are referring to when they say noise, but best for me is to adjust exactly how he told you - in small increments until you get where you want to be. It doesn't matter if you start overly tight or a little loose. Just keep tweaking the tension and testing against the soft stop until you only have a very small amount of slippage. This will give you the best combo of belt life and feel.

 

[yegor]

Not sure what they are referring to when they say noise, but best for me is to adjust exactly how he told you - in small increments until you get where you want to be. It doesn't matter if you start overly tight or a little loose. Just keep tweaking the tension and testing against the soft stop until you only have a very small amount of slippage. This will give you the best combo of belt life and feel.

What is considered "soft stop"? I keep hearing this and kind of have an idea what it is, but still it's not clear. Also, how do I determine if the slippage amount is very small?

 

[eKretz]

It is the software stop (changeable by altering the SEN setting), rather than the hard, or mechanical stop provided by the black collar that rides on the threads of the steering shaft inside the base.

The slippage should be such that the belt slips a little bit when you are past the soft stop but not continuously or rapidly, or one tiny tweak tighter.

 

[yegor]

Oh, I see. Thank you!

 

[yttam2]

It may also be too much current at stall for the PCB to reliably handle. IIRC it will be very similar to the single Bühler motor that Blue028 is running now.

Is there any way to power the motor separately from the PCB, so that you do not risk burning it? Someone recommended me a controller for DC motors, but I have no idea what it is.

 

[eKretz]

Is there any way to power the motor separately from the PCB, so that you do not risk burning it? Someone recommended me a controller for DC motors, but I have no idea what it is.

Yes, but it would be a lot of very intricate work for someone not well versed in electronics and soldering. The motors are run with an H-bridge that is given a signal to turn off or on and by what percentage of full power by the microcontroller. You could intercept this signal and route it through your own higher capacity H-bridge but it would add quite a lot of complexity and cost, as well as time, to the modding of your wheel. IMO, there wouldn't be a whole lot of benefit to doing so. The Bühler setup at 24V is pretty simple and very reliable. Going with anything much more powerful will put you at odds with belt traction anyway. One could always change to synchronous belt drive or alter pulley diameters and use a different RPM motor, but that gets you into the realm of a wheel like the new SimX Accuforce as far as what it would cost, which kind of kiboshes the idea - for me at least.

 

[superslowme]

The total was around $52 with shipping and tax. I bought another set which added $37.

My English is not the best either so I most likely misunderstood you here now, but I am curious it´s in my nature anyway so just gonna ask you straight out:

You say "....I bought another set which added $37"

Did you but an extra motor block apart from the one you needed to fix your wheel again or did you opt for a more expensive motor block that added $37 to original price?
Sorry to ask but just curious here, most likely my English messing up like I said.

Anyways apart from the new motor block, do you have any plans form here on, what you gonna do? Sell your Elite + buy CSW or just modify the Elite right away, if you still have plans on modifying at all that is? I´m no expert really but from everything I´v read so far about these wheels is any indication I absolutely recommend that you cool those motors either way, whether stock or Buhler´s to be on the safe side.

 

[MartyU]

Thanks Eric!

I apologize for using this thread to receive answers, but I am having a little difficulty understanding what's the proper way of adjusting the belt tension. Can you guys "translate" this?

Fanatec's instructions:

Had my CSW apart to fix some kinking in the cooling hoses with the Buhler mod and checked the motor belt tension which is working well where I have it. Pushing the belt between the motor pulleys gives about 1/4 inch of movement. That would seem too loose but turning against the soft stop creates minor slippage at the small side of the idler pulley which shows the motor belt is tight enough. Minimum is best for low drag and good feel of light forces.

Seems like there should be a recommended spec for belt deflection to adjust the belts correctly. I intended to take some measurements when I had the wheel apart but forgot in my hurry to get it working again.

 

[K_Soze]

My English is not the best either so I most likely misunderstood you here now, but I am curious it´s in my nature anyway so just gonna ask you straight out:

You say "....I bought another set which added $37"

Did you but an extra motor block apart from the one you needed to fix your wheel again or did you opt for a more expensive motor block that added $37 to original price?
Sorry to ask but just curious here, most likely my English messing up like I said.

Anyways apart from the new motor block, do you have any plans form here on, what you gonna do? Sell your Elite + buy CSW or just modify the Elite right away, if you still have plans on modifying at all that is? I´m no expert really but from everything I´v read so far about these wheels is any indication I absolutely recommend that you cool those motors either way, whether stock or Buhler´s to be on the safe side.

I admire Ekretz's mod but I think waiting for ps4 compatibility / Fanatec direct drive wheel (like Simsteering or Accuforce) news could be a good strategy unless your wheel is already out of order. (in the real life, my wife and my three daughters return to school so waiting is my only option).

Edit : I mean money is not falling from trees

Edit2 : too much wine (Friday nice souper), you don't speak about your own wheel. I have to read carefully before trying posting in English XD

 

[yegor]

My English is not the best either so I most likely misunderstood you here now, but I am curious it´s in my nature anyway so just gonna ask you straight out:

You say "....I bought another set which added $37"

Did you but an extra motor block apart from the one you needed to fix your wheel again or did you opt for a more expensive motor block that added $37 to original price?
Sorry to ask but just curious here, most likely my English messing up like I said.

Anyways apart from the new motor block, do you have any plans form here on, what you gonna do? Sell your Elite + buy CSW or just modify the Elite right away, if you still have plans on modifying at all that is? I´m no expert really but from everything I´v read so far about these wheels is any indication I absolutely recommend that you cool those motors either way, whether stock or Buhler´s to be on the safe side.

I bought 2 sets of the same stock motors. I thought to get a spare one just in a case.

I think I will keep my wheel for a while. The absence of the CSW on the Fanatec store cooled me off.

I would like to modify the CSR E, but won't have time until this Winter, after that -- we'll see.

 

[superslowme]

I bought 2 sets of the same stock motors. I thought to get a spare one just in a case.

I think I will keep my wheel for a while. The absence of the CSW on the Fanatec store cooled me off.

I would like to modify the CSR E, but won't have time until this Winter, after that -- we'll see.

Ok I see, yeah though there was only one version of the motor block available but had to ask to satisfy my own curiosity..

Unless you plan on this or any other mod in the coming months + going to keep your Elite then yeah at that cost I think it was a smart move to buy an extra setup, they do not exactly have a reputation of being bulletproof and to sit at home and wait for weeks for a new motor-block is not fun should they burn out again?

@K soze, yeah agreed + me too have to watch my economy very carefully and money do indeed not grow on trees.
Regarding ps4 I have to admit I am a PC only kinda guy but the direct drive wheel sound like a interesting idea I did not even know about those Fanatec plans?? Would have to change their manufacturing technical strategy somewhat then I suppose, surely they would be forced to look at a quality motor for such a wheel if the motor itself going to be the center piece or perhaps I´m wrong and just assuming without more knowledge?

Either way that sounds like exciting project and hope the support for CSW is not taken off line shortly after launch?

 

[eKretz]

I'm pretty sure it won't be. Thomas made some comments in the iRacing forums along the lines of having different tiers of wheels. I think CSW owners are safe for at least a little while yet.

 

[yegor]

Had my CSW apart to fix some kinking in the cooling hoses with the Buhler mod and checked the motor belt tension which is working well where I have it. Pushing the belt between the motor pulleys gives about 1/4 inch of movement. That would seem too loose but turning against the soft stop creates minor slippage at the small side of the idler pulley which shows the motor belt is tight enough. Minimum is best for low drag and good feel of light forces.

Seems like there should be a recommended spec for belt deflection to adjust the belts correctly. I intended to take some measurements when I had the wheel apart but forgot in my hurry to get it working again.

I replaced the motors and adjusted the tension of the belt just by rotating the wheel and making sure it feels "right" -- I don't know how else to describe -- and it feels right