Fanatec Gran Turismo DD Extreme Wheel
- Thread starter super_gt
- 1,270 comments
- 163,424 views
- 192
- Lamia city
- 2,555
- Upstate NY
- BWX232
Yeah that makes sense actually, since it is the latest most stable FW. I was wondering if they maybe had a newer version but maybe they just went with the known good one.
- 1,733
- United Kingdom
In the new update
2. Controllers
- Adjusted the Tuning Menu Auto Setup parameters for the Fanatec® Podium to better suit the Torque Mode:
・When in High Torque Mode, selecting Auto Setup (AS) will set the optimum parameters;
・When in Low Torque Mode, the force feedback will be weaker. Please adjust the setting in Custom Setup as follows:
SEM: Auto
FFB: 100
NDP: 50
NFR: 5
NIN: Off
INT: 3
FEI: 100
FOR: 100
SPR: 100
DPR: 100
2. Controllers
- Adjusted the Tuning Menu Auto Setup parameters for the Fanatec® Podium to better suit the Torque Mode:
・When in High Torque Mode, selecting Auto Setup (AS) will set the optimum parameters;
・When in Low Torque Mode, the force feedback will be weaker. Please adjust the setting in Custom Setup as follows:
SEM: Auto
FFB: 100
NDP: 50
NFR: 5
NIN: Off
INT: 3
FEI: 100
FOR: 100
SPR: 100
DPR: 100
- 2,555
- Upstate NY
- BWX232
Have PD ever put Fanatec wheel settings in the patch notes like that? I guess even if they aren't saying anything about newer wheels, at least they're working on wheels and settings. At least it's on their radar. It was kind of funny watching the world series and those guys' hands oscillating back and forth down the straights. edit- also interesting they have SPR DPR at 100 when everyone says they aren't used in GT7. I think I can feel a difference when they are on but everyone says they aren't used.
Last edited:
PirovacBoy
Premium
- 1,461
- Cologne/Germany
- PirovacBoy
- 511
- United States
I haven't seen them do it before either... I've been complaining that they need to be more communicative, hopefully this the start of them doing that...
Nobody seems to know what the heck this game is doing. The physics are changing update to update... The FFB is changing... PD doesn't seem to understand it themselves.
Iterative improvements are amazing and appreciated. But whatever this is... This is annoying. PD is reminding me of Mercedes in the current F1 regs, their wind tunnel correlation is miles off lol.
- 609
- Aliso Viejo, CA
- Renown787B
According to the official FANATEC forum, SPR and DPR are not used in the game. https://forum.fanatec.com/discussion/25219/gran-turismo-7-ps4-ps5-fanatec-recommended-settings/p7
Maybe this was changed in one of the updates since this was posted???
Maybe this was changed in one of the updates since this was posted???
- 248
- China & USA
Has anyone tested FFB with open wheelers after GT7 1.52 update? Has it been fixed or is it still weak?
Last edited:
PirovacBoy
Premium
- 1,461
- Cologne/Germany
- PirovacBoy
SPR and DPR don't have a direct effect on what these two parameters actually are meant to be used for.
Yet, they have a very subtle impact on the center spring behavior or let's say the initial feel around the wheel shaft.
To put it in another perspective, it doesn't do exactly what it's supposed to do, but it still has some very minor impact which to me is noticeable when turning them completely off or having them set to their default values.
Last edited:
- 609
- Aliso Viejo, CA
- Renown787B
Easy enough to test, I suppose, if it's mostly a center feeling that you're noticing. I've had mine set to off since the DD Pro, and now with the DD+. I'll try it later tonight after work. Should be a fun test.
PirovacBoy
Premium
- 1,461
- Cologne/Germany
- PirovacBoy
Yep it's indeed easy to test.Easy enough to test, I suppose, if it's mostly a center feeling that you're noticing. I've had mine set to off since the DD Pro, and now with the DD+. I'll try it later tonight after work. Should be a fun test.
When I turn them both off completely the wheel becomes slightly more nervous around it's center position.
The initial firmness is gone.
It's very subtle but to me still noticeable.
I crave these small little things 😅
- 2,555
- Upstate NY
- BWX232
Hmm... it doesn't even have BLI and SHO though. When you say logged, do you mean you set it to auto and then check what the settings are on the wheel with the game running? I thought those settings were controlled by the Fanatec CP when you hook it up to your PC and then they stay that way, and the game doesn't control those at all. But not totally sure. Or are you using Fanalabs or some other software to check? I don't use Fanalabs since all the problems with disconnects so not sure what you can do in there now. I quit using it to eliminate it as a source of issues when testing for disconnects on PC basically.
Edit- oh those settings are for your pedals.. That's why I don't see them on my Elite V2 pedals.
Last edited:
- 2,555
- Upstate NY
- BWX232
Anyways this is what my CSL Elite V2 pedals are doing now when hooked up to GT DD Extreme in GT7.
I guess load cell is failing, it's falling out of calibration, but also there's an invisible phantom glitch every few seconds that resets the upper brake deadzone limit when in calibration screen in GT7. I wonder if anyone else has that glitch where it resets the upper calibration. Might be pedals, might be FW/ wheel.. not sure. 🤷♂️
I guess load cell is failing, it's falling out of calibration, but also there's an invisible phantom glitch every few seconds that resets the upper brake deadzone limit when in calibration screen in GT7. I wonder if anyone else has that glitch where it resets the upper calibration. Might be pedals, might be FW/ wheel.. not sure. 🤷♂️
Oshawa-Joe
Premium
- 5,156
- Hillsdale
- Oshawa-Joe
RS60NR
Premium
- 249
- United States
Auto setup slot can be used by the game dev to set values for the game in use - you can’t change them except probably pedal related BLI. Its documented somewhere can’t recall but part of the SDK for devs to set. Latest patch notes for GT mentions this for Podium so was curious what was set for DD+
FUL 50 is the default for all the menu slots first time so that may be why its 50 for Auto as well - don’t think GT sets anything for it yet
The Fanatec CP does not set this as its not active on a console. To see those values you can just go to the AS setting one down from setup 1 in the tuning menu and scroll across - there are dots or other indicators depending on your display showing you can’t change them.
- 20
- Central Pole Position
- Elimin4torecK
I was supprised to see you guys discuss SPR and DPR being effective or not.
Important to say I am still testing different settings on my DD Pro since 2 months of using it (classicaly switching from G29).
Still just being confused and not finding my sweet spot for more then one car.
So once I like these with one car I find it annoying with another one.
Yesterday I was shocked and annoyed how badly Upd 1.52 twaeaked the FFB.
PD's Settings for Podium are NO go for my DD Pro.
And having all my 5 saved variations failing I tested Auto Setting. And I was shocked how well it tuned it. It felt really neat.
Then i started to play again with my own tuning looking for some setup for Drifting (meaning wheel to follow the front wheel without unnecessary damping or torques agains).
And NDP made my day.
Setting it OFF gave back the front wheels control on the Fantec Wheel. For smooth feeling it find it best between 6-12 whle OFF is bit rough.
As long as I don't find it yet comfy for drifting (as much as I don't find myself drifter) my first test gives a nice feel for what is happening with the car, the side Gforce and feedback from the wheel which imput to react with. Feel like theres is a chances to restrain the spinouts again.
[edt. now I see you guys spoke about DPR and myself about NDP. Still I understand DPR like Master Gauge, meaning OFF=MaxFFB 100%=MinFFB]
Important to say I am still testing different settings on my DD Pro since 2 months of using it (classicaly switching from G29).
Still just being confused and not finding my sweet spot for more then one car.
So once I like these with one car I find it annoying with another one.
Yesterday I was shocked and annoyed how badly Upd 1.52 twaeaked the FFB.
PD's Settings for Podium are NO go for my DD Pro.
And having all my 5 saved variations failing I tested Auto Setting. And I was shocked how well it tuned it. It felt really neat.
Then i started to play again with my own tuning looking for some setup for Drifting (meaning wheel to follow the front wheel without unnecessary damping or torques agains).
And NDP made my day.
Setting it OFF gave back the front wheels control on the Fantec Wheel. For smooth feeling it find it best between 6-12 whle OFF is bit rough.
As long as I don't find it yet comfy for drifting (as much as I don't find myself drifter) my first test gives a nice feel for what is happening with the car, the side Gforce and feedback from the wheel which imput to react with. Feel like theres is a chances to restrain the spinouts again.
[edt. now I see you guys spoke about DPR and myself about NDP. Still I understand DPR like Master Gauge, meaning OFF=MaxFFB 100%=MinFFB]
Last edited:
- 609
- Aliso Viejo, CA
- Renown787B
Well, I did have time to mess with this. As I mentioned, I had SPR and DPR set to off forever. It was common thought that 100 or off made no difference, so I opted for off. Anyway, I did about 20 laps in my Porsche GT4 2016 car around Red Bull Ring since it was the last track we raced in our League. Felt great as always. Come to discover, putting on SPR and DPR to 100 does have a very slight affect. It's not a night and day thing, but I do see what you mean. It affects the center position feeling. If I had to put a percentage on what I feel, it would be 5%. I switched back and forth between off and 100 and it's there. That said, I think the only way you would ever notice this difference, is your base needs to be on a solid rig. I use an aluminum extrusion rig from Sim Lab, so the base does not move, so maybe that’s why I was able to feel the difference.
On a similar topic. There was some discussion on the Sensitivity setting within the GT7 menu settings. I evaluated that too. Since update 1.49, I’ve used 7 and 8. Come to discover, the higher this value, the more oscillation the wheel exhibits in a long straight. I’ve now settled on Sensitivity 2 and raised the Max Torque from 4 to 5. No more oscillation. I can now take my hands off the wheel at Fuji to have a sip of coffee in long endurance races. LOL
- 511
- United States
I'd just like to take a moment and show appreciation to everyone who shares their analysis/thoughts/feedback. I know it's a forum and it comes with the territory but I also realize all/most of us are busy as hell lol. Taking the time to provide insight that can help myself/others is greatly appreciated.
Last edited:
- 2,555
- Upstate NY
- BWX232
Do you remember when it started doing that or when you first noticed?
RS60NR
Premium
- 249
- United States
That’s one way to damp it out, what you are doing with sensitivity is adjusting compliance in the steering system, 1 being really soft and 10 being really tight. So lowering sensitivity is like adding a softer rubber bushing which is absorbing the oscillation. But you loose some steering precision
Another way to lessen is to reduce the FOR setting on the Fanatec wheels - this part of the feedback seems coupled to the suspension movement - but keep FFB same so steering force is still good. Helps w many but not all of the affected
Trade offs - Unfortunately suspension modeling still needs more refinement
- 310
- way ahead of you, leaving you in the pixie dust
I would not reference posts from 2.5 years ago. It might as well be from my first Gran Turismo.
Most folks are creating their own issues. I have not had any oscillations or nonsense behavior. I also don't assume that something is one way and so should try to double down on changing something because of an assumption. Ever see those self tuning nightmares that barely idle and are obnoxiously loud and run so rich they have to change spark plugs weekly... Yah. It's obscenely common in the "car scenes" and has been for many decades. Clearly there's no way they messed it up. 🤷♀️
I strongly encourage, just like IRL track events. absolutely do not change anything until you are able to run consistent times in the upper decile. Then you are ready to make minor changes and compare to the baseline. Basic scientific method here, but what's a computer scientist & engineer gonna do to help those who certainly won't listen to a girl.
More often than not the loose nut behind the wheel needs to tune themselves first.
- 2,555
- Upstate NY
- BWX232
So I can't adjust my FFB on my own wheel that I paid $1000 for with my own money unless I am one of the fastest/ most consistent drivers in the world? ok.. LOL!
Seriously though, how fast someone is doesn't mean anything, at all.. I adjust my FFB so it feels right to me, or as close as I can get to what I perceive as feeling right to me. It's all personal taste and has nothing to do with how fast you are IMHO. I'll sacrifice outright speed on the lap timer for immersion, and often do. Life isn't always about competition, sometimes it's just about relaxing and having some meaningless fun!
edit- spelling
Last edited:
Oshawa-Joe
Premium
- 5,156
- Hillsdale
- Oshawa-Joe
- 1,026
- United States
Re: oscillations on the ddX: umm. Good for you?
I run 10/8 in game, wheel at 100/100/100. Ndp 35 and the rest off.
Not a lot of voodoo in my settings but the feelings great and the personalities of the cars are pretty well reflected. Except on straights with fast cars, 4wd prototypes being the worst offenders, where the wheel suddenly turns into a washing machine stuck on stupid. I haven’t changed a thing since receiving the wheel around march. 454, 10.2 yada. (Because fanatecs been a dumpsterfire in the firmware dept and i didn’t want to temp fate. )Now maybe your on 457 with the hotfixes, and thats the solution because dropping for to 60-80, int to zero or dropping in game sensitivity down to 1(for prototypes) all mostly work but are compromises I’d rather not make.
Also, most of us regular posters here sre solution oriented folks who i’d wager employ the scientific method regularly in our attempts to find realistic settings which make sense for a variety of users.
Finally, we talk about solutions and performance of the wheel here largely in an attempt to squeeze the most realistic feeling out of the 15nm model. Not the l33test set up to pwn gt7. We really don’t care about peoples resumes but whether their observations, theories, and hypotheses make sense and are relevant to whatever issue we are chewing on at the time. Intelligent comments stand on their own.
Now if you have something interesting to say about a hot fix and whatever that 240hz thing was you were going on about not so long ago and how it might pertain to the issue being discussed..great!
But breezing through and implying the oscillation thing isn’t real or likely somehow self inflicted(when even the logitech wheel users have been mentioning it) isn’t helpful.
Last edited:
- 310
- way ahead of you, leaving you in the pixie dust
Post a video over your shoulder and with telemetry. My streams show great ways to see what is factually going on with inputs and analytic data feeds. Posting videos has led others to observe things which is critical when without recordings many things might be left out intentionally, by accident, or by not even knowing. Without video to review, it's extreme speculation and assumption.
Similar threads
