Fanatec Gran Turismo DD Extreme Wheel

[RS60NR]

455 was very stable for most people not having other issues, or with the WQR from 457 and seemed to have the best FFB. I’m on 464 w no issues as my base seems to have tolerance for any update so far. FFB is mostly the same. Eventually I want fixes for PBME so will need to update someday anyway

My settings:

SEN auto
FFB 60 - use 100 w FOR at 60 for GR1 oscillation - make a 2nd setup for ease of switching
FUL 50 - default not used yet
NDP 28
NFR 5
NIN off
INT 4
FEI 100
FOR 100
SPR 100
DPR 100
BLI 80
SHO on
MPS auto
BRF 75 CSP V3

In game Torque 5 sens 8

 

[FMW]

Hey all, no issues, but information sharing in case anyone's interested. BTW, huge help from this thread on knowing what's been happening with DD+.

Purchased DD+ thru Black Friday deal. Ordered Friday and received it Tuesday (ships from Dallas).

Checked S/N on shipping box / retail box / base unit = they're all the same S/N, so working with a new unit, and the shipping box clearly marked CS DD+ US.

Here are out-of-box FW versions on the unit. I don't plan to update these FW unless I am forced(pun) to.

• Base: 2.0.0.17
• QR: 0.6.6.5

I've logged only few hours but so far no issues. Listening for Coilwhine or disconnects, so far so good.
Using below setting:

• FFB 65
• NDP 5
• NFR 3
• NIN off
• INT 2
• FEI/FOR = 100
• SPR = off

Coming from DD Pro 8NM, only playing GT7. First impression (still very early) = not a noticeable jump from DD Pro other than more force. Nice to have, but not a significant jump, Yet (still early, need to test various cars).

Question = is it recommended to unplug the power brick when not in use? plug / un-plug in daily basis, or keep it plugged in 24/7. I assume plugged, but not sure what's good hygiene for these base power bricks. For my DD Pro, always had it plugged in, only unplugged during heavy thunderstorms. Thanks for you feedback in advance!

I've yet to see FANATEC recommend one way or the other, if you should leave the power brick plugged in 24/7 or not. Personally, I disconnect mine from the surge protector behind my TV entertainment center because I slide my rig from one room to the family room when anyone wants to drive. So for me, unplugging is a necessary thing. With that said, I've had no issues doing it. I did it with my old CSW 2.0, GT DD Pro and now the CS DD+. If I were to have a dedicated spot for the RIG with it's own TV/Monitor, leaving it plugged in should be no issue. I would however plug it into a quality surge protector.

 

[TSXChef]

Thanks all, appreciate your feedbacks.
In terms of power brick, I'll leave it plugged-in, I'm probably over thinking it.

In terms of setting, these are mostly carry over from DD Pro 8nm --> DD+. I mainly play GT7, rarely play ACC
SEN auto
FFB 65 - I mainly drive GR4, GR3, sometime GR2, and this generally works without me making changes between cars
FUL 50 - default not used yet
NDP 5 - I tried using higher setting, but to me it feels more "free" to get this value lower. 30 is nice if I'm looking for some restriction
NFR 3 - I don't like lot of friction, keep it low so I don't restrict making quick turns
NIN off - similar to SPR below, I turn this off to avoid light force near center area when I make turns
INT 2 - sometimes use 1 also but not 0(zero creates all kinds of noise / vibrations)
FEI 100
FOR 100
SPR off - though I like the wheel to return to center, but I find it larger light force near center when I turn. Having it Off narrows it IMO
DPR off - I think NA
BLI off - don't use vibrations
BRF 63 CSP V3 - I use 2x13mm Red + 1x cut-down 13mm Red elastomers for my V3

In game Torque 4 sens 8

Finally as a side note, My DD Pro center wheel sits +3 to the right at rest, DD+ sits -1 at rest. Is it that hard for Fanatec to center the wheel when setting the magnets in the body?! I'm asking too much, I know :-)

 

[BWX]

I leave the brick plugged in, but only because I have it connected to a sine wave uninterruptible power supply.

I'd most likely leave it plugged in in the winter (no lightning to worry about), but in the summer if not for the UPS I'd unplug it when not in use just because of power surges/ power outages, and lightning storms.

These are good to have for sensitive electronics, PCs, your PS5, home theater, etc..

I have a Generac automatic natural gas powered whole home generator but that takes 20 seconds to kick on in case of power failure. With these UPSs, if there's a power outage or surge, my mesh network stays up, PC, PS5, wheel, TV, etc.. all stay on.

It's nice to have a few UPSs around the house especially on your modems and network and of course PCs. I have 5 or 6 now but working on upgrading them all to sine wave only as the batteries die on them even though you can replace the batteries for cheap. Then I replace batteries on old non-sine wave UPSs and use them on less sensitive electronics.

It's good insurance, these wheels are expensive, and even good sine wave UPSs are relatively cheap these days.

edit link to last two I bought

Amazon.com

Amazon.com

Edit 2- I'm glad someone brought this up.
Just noticed that the APC 1500VA sine wave UPS is as cheap as it's been for a long time today.
I just bought another one for 220 bucks!

 

[Kriptical]

462
Plugged in to a upc

300mm DDX wheel
In game torque: 10
Sensi: 8
SEN auto
FFB 100
FUL 00 - default not used yet
NDP 22
NFR off
NIN off
INT 3
FEI 100
FOR 100
SPR 100
DPR 100

330mm round
In game torque: 10
Sensi: 8
SEN auto
FFB 100
FUL 00 - default not used yet
NDP 14
NFR off
NIN off
INT 3
FEI 100
FOR 100
SPR 100
DPR 100

My settings were arrived at by driving a road car i was familiar, or relatively familiar with, and taking corners around 60ish mph and adjusting until things felt normal in VR. After that kinda figured i’d just let the chips fall where they may, as i’ve never driven a race car. Will say race c is a trip this week. (300mm)

 

[Andy Lapi]

In game torque 10, FFB 100 ! Do you practice body building? 😂

 

[TSXChef]

In game torque 10, FFB 100 ! Do you practice body building? 😂

I was thinking the same for Kriptical's in-game Torque 10, 100 FFB, that's a workout then some, impressed!

Also adding to my setup for GT7 only

• Controller sensitivity = 4 (I still don't know if this impacts wheel, placebo or not, but landed with 4)
• PS5 accessories, controller, accessories, vibration intensity = Strong(standard). Having different setting between PSN accounts will have an impact on wheel strength

Finally a question for those on V3 pedal, playing GT7. Which firmware do you use? and if 1.35, do you have any brake input delays? I read someone mentioning brake input delays on FW1.35, so I'm still on 1.32. Thanks.

 

[super_gt]

Controller sensitivity = 4 (I still don't know if this impacts wheel, placebo or not, but landed with 4)

Logitech G Pro Racing Wheel

I got the Pro Wheel with Pro Pedals and the RS Shifter & Handbrake but the shifter doesn´t work in GT7. The firmware of the shifter is the latest and it´s recognized and working on my PC in G Hub. However, in GT7 it doesn´t work. I plugged the shifter in a USB-Port of the base (like the...

www.gtplanet.net

 

[Kriptical]

Hah. Haven’t been to a gym in decades lol

Part of landing on ffb 10 meant including the strength necessary to hold yourself in place in the car while cornering. I basically went on some back roads which had elements close to the nord and eiger and paid attention to how much force my arms exerted when cornering at various levels of aggression and then went to the game and tried to get close. I think relative to my subaru(daily driver) 10 is a smidge heavy, but 9 was too light. So went 10. The weight of the Subaru’s wheel is heavier than my gm’s or fords, and any of my trucks or vans. But its what i have now so it kinda is what it is.

I’ve found it interesting that much more ndp or any nfr/ndp make the wheel feel artificially heavy and begins to homogenize the driving experience. By keeping it low there is more of a direct correlation between grip and weight. The red bull is an interesting example. The wheel feels comically light when your slow. You can yank it like your driving a box truck. But hauling cookies through some of those sweepers, which can be held while going flat out…if you believe…. 😂, can get ya a little sweaty.

when your experimenting with settings, its useful to turn on automatic transmission and stick to things you know or are close. If you can line those things up then everything else should fall into place. And if it doesn’t, that’s on pd. That said things feel pretty natural when in vr. Except for the clownish oscillation, of course.

Btw! I think its on the current driver thread over at fanatec(but not sure)…anyway..someone was asking about oscillation in gt7 and fanatec(marcel) was like, thats a gt7 problem and we have nothing to do with it. Which confirmed what we’ve suspected.

(https://forum.fanatec.com/discussion/32001/fanatec-driver-464-release-version/p5)

 

[RS60NR]

Finally a question for those on V3 pedal, playing GT7. Which firmware do you use? and if 1.35, do you have any brake input delays? I read someone mentioning brake input delays on FW1.35, so I'm still on 1.32. Thanks.

Stay on 1.32 if its working fine for you. I’m on same I think as its been so long since I checked.

I’ve seen the delay reported several times and so have avoided updating as have not seen any advantage - only if you are having issues

I am not and have not wanted to bother downgrading if thats the case, as that FW is in a driver way back before 450

 

[rsspyder21]

In game torque 10, FFB 100 ! Do you practice body building? 😂

I was thinking the same for Kriptical's in-game Torque 10, 100 FFB, that's a workout then some, impressed!

Hah. Haven’t been to a gym in decades lol

Part of landing on ffb 10 meant including the strength necessary to hold yourself in place in the car while cornering. I basically went on some back roads which had elements close to the nord and eiger and paid attention to how much force my arms exerted when cornering at various levels of aggression and then went to the game and tried to get close. I think relative to my subaru(daily driver) 10 is a smidge heavy, but 9 was too light. So went 10. The weight of the Subaru’s wheel is heavier than my gm’s or fords, and any of my trucks or vans. But its what i have now so it kinda is what it is.

I’ve found it interesting that much more ndp or any nfr/ndp make the wheel feel artificially heavy and begins to homogenize the driving experience. By keeping it low there is more of a direct correlation between grip and weight. The red bull is an interesting example. The wheel feels comically light when your slow. You can yank it like your driving a box truck. But hauling cookies through some of those sweepers, which can be held while going flat out…if you believe…. 😂, can get ya a little sweaty.

when your experimenting with settings, its useful to turn on automatic transmission and stick to things you know or are close. If you can line those things up then everything else should fall into place. And if it doesn’t, that’s on pd. That said things feel pretty natural when in vr. Except for the clownish oscillation, of course.

Btw! I think its on the current driver thread over at fanatec(but not sure)…anyway..someone was asking about oscillation in gt7 and fanatec(marcel) was like, thats a gt7 problem and we have nothing to do with it. Which confirmed what we’ve suspected.

(https://forum.fanatec.com/discussion/32001/fanatec-driver-464-release-version/p5)

Ya, running FFB 100 and in-game torque at 10 is no thing in a lot of cars at the moment. It was DEFINITELY a thing 10 months ago before PD fiddled with the game's FFB model or whatever we're calling it. Right out of the box when I received it, I tried running my DD+ on FFB 100/torque 10 and it was borderline physically impossible in a lot of the faster cars, and certainly not enjoyable or realistic. That's no longer the case.

 

[Kriptical]

Indeed. I think mine was at 4 or something back then. Never tried 10 before the nerf.

10 isn’t anything crazy at the moment.

Besides. They say 15nm is what’s experienced in most road cars..so figured i’d go for the whole dynamic range. 🤷‍♂️

 

[rsspyder21]

Indeed. I think mine was at 4 or something back then. Never tried 10 before the nerf.

10 isn’t anything crazy at the moment.

Besides. They say 15nm is what’s experienced in most road cars..so figured i’d go for the whole dynamic range. 🤷‍♂️

I’m someone who historically has run my wheel resistance/FFB rather high going back 20+ years to the first Logitech wheels. But I did so back then because otherwise there was like no resistance and it was difficult to keep cars from wandering down straights let alone having good feel in corners.

In the past few months I’ve made myself lower it on my DD+ because the days mentioned above are long gone, and loads of wheel weight isn’t realistic or necessary.

I’ve driven all manner of sports cars and supercars on tracks as fast as I can and never gotten out of a car with my arms and shoulders screaming at me. Even something like the 992 GT3 RS and all its downforce isn’t hard on you like that. Yet I can make it a workout on my DD+. So now when I feel it in my arms after three laps on the sims, I know I need to dial it back if I’m looking for a more realistic experience.

That said, sometimes it’s just fun to turn it up and give yourself a workout if you’re looking to up the intensity of the sim fun factor. Lately, I’ve been running the Mazda LM55 around the short Kyoto Miyabi layout with the wheel torque cranked up. Holy hell is that an intense way to play/drive. You never get a break physically because the lap is so short and the speeds so high and the braking zones at the end of the lap/chicane being demanding of hard braking and precision to generate quick lap times. It’s one of the most visceral things I’ve experienced in GT. (I only drive in VR anymore.) The other day I did 12 laps and was shaking my head when I got out of the seat, saying, “Eeeesh that’s a hell of a wild ride.” 🤣

 

[TSXChef]

Stay on 1.32 if its working fine for you. I’m on same I think as its been so long since I checked.

I’ve seen the delay reported several times and so have avoided updating as have not seen any advantage - only if you are having issues

I am not and have not wanted to bother downgrading if thats the case, as that FW is in a driver way back before 450

Thanks for your feedback RS60NR. You make lot of sense, don't temper if it ain't broke.

Only reason I was considering 1.35 was Fanatec comment below in driver 442

• Fixed brake input flickering of CSP V3

I don't really notice it flickering, so I'll let it be for now.