Fanatec Gran Turismo DD Pro

[CBH]

Can someone try the 911 95- on Willow Springs with the Fanatec recommended settings but with FF SCAL as Linear? I just did it, for fun, and it felt like cheating. It was so damn obvious where the grip was and the steering wheel guided me along the track by itself, I just had to modulate brakes and throttle. I picked this combination because it's so hard to not **** up in the long sweeping corners with a car that hates you.
My partner did great with 1/1 in-game, and so did I but I had to focus a bit. With 5/1 in-game and FF SCAL to linear I didn't need to focus, I had to force a mistake to not go fast. I'm way stronger than she is so maybe 1/1 with FF SCAL Peak felt like 5/1 and FF SCAL Linear to me.

Can someone try it?
(Just be careful with turning NDP off and letting go off the wheel - I'm not responsible for broken hands, dead cats and so on. Use the Fanatec recommended settings if you're doing 5/1 in-game and FF 100.)

(And all is done with 8 Nm.)

The 911 95 is totally stock ?.

 

[Yard_Sale]

Just confirming, the base only can’t be purchased yet?

 

[HugoTwoWheels]

The 911 95 is totally stock ?.

Yes.

Just confirming, the base only can’t be purchased yet?

Correct - can't be bought yet.

 

[Yard_Sale]

Copy.

Next question for the crowd. Does anyone know if the rim that comes with the CSL DD can be used with the old CSL elite base?

Reason being, I’m thinking of buying the DD base for me, then giving my dad my old CSL elite base with that rim (my stock CSL elite rim broke and I have since replaced it with a Mclaren GT3 rim

@DomB_Fanatec, can you confirm sir?

 

[Kalder]

Now that I have a DD wheel I can't blame the wheel anymore if the ffb isn't good, it's simply the game or the settings if it's not right. And is it just me or does GT Sport not have the best ffb? I played Dirt Rally 2 and it totally blew my mind!

And btw, has anyone gotten the GT DD working with wreckfest? It did work with the G29 but I can't get the DD to work

 

[Zaccheus]

Now that I have a DD wheel I can't blame the wheel anymore if the ffb isn't good, it's simply the game or the settings if it's not right. And is it just me or does GT Sport not have the best ffb? I played Dirt Rally 2 and it totally blew my mind!

And btw, has anyone gotten the GT DD working with wreckfest? It did work with the G29 but I can't get the DD to work

GTS has poor ffb, let's hope GT7 is at least a bit better.

 

[HugoTwoWheels]

What are you missing in the GTS FFB? "More immersion/realism" is not descriptive enough.

With NDP Off and INT 1 you really feel the pure signal from the game. There are cons to this though, mostly in form of oscillation if you let go of the wheel.

I'd recommend this to anyone interested in FFB (by developer of ACC):

 

[CBH]

What are you missing in the GTS FFB? "More immersion/realism" is not descriptive enough.

With NDP Off and INT 1 you really feel the pure signal from the game. There are cons to this though, mostly in form of oscillation if you let go of the wheel.

I'd recommend this to anyone interested in FFB (by developer of ACC):

FFB was not that great for GT Sport.

 

[graesand]

User Deleted

 

[CBH]

I think what hugo is saying is that with the possibility of altering more parameters in the signal path on the fanatec, more than the basic two settings in game, which the rest of us can play with, can make a difference.

I wont go as far as saying Gt sport is bad, its just different. As for best FFB i think Rbr with ngp 6 and the recomended settings you can get online or ln discord is the one that come closest to what i want to feel. Keep in mind this is for gravel and snow, last time i played the game i still wasnt completely sure about the tarmac feel. Also the ffb is very different in a corolla or a gt3 car, gt sport try to emulate both, big task and big ask.

Yes GT Sport is different when it comes to FFB, but you should not really test a lot more parameters changes in the signal path on the Fanatec GT DD Pro for GT Sport, because your not going to get a real feel.
In one of my post I said my settings for the GT DD Pro feels like driving my real car, and it does feel like it for that game but it is still missing something to get the feel right.

 

[Yard_Sale]

@DomB_Fanatec , will the new CSL GT7 DD rim and pedals hook up with a year-ish old CSL elite base?

My plan is to buy the CSL DD package, then give the rim and pedals to my dad (along with my old CSL base)….. keeping the DD base for myself to use along with my Mclaren rim. I’d give him my stock CSL elite rim, but the joystick got stuck a month ago and is no longer usable.

Thanks

 

[HugoTwoWheels]

An update, if anyone's interested.

I've settled on the settings recommended by Fanatec, but changing NDP to OFF and INT to 1. This is a bit harsher, and will oscillate if you let go of the wheel, but provides quicker and more clear FFB. NDP is dampening everything and INT is intrapolating the FFB signal. I understand why Fanatec recommends NDP 25 and INT 3 - it's clear and crisp enough but safer than NDP OFF and INT 1 (it's softer and won't oscillate).

I don't notice any difference between LIN and PEAK, except that LIN is much weaker. So I'm sticking to PEAK.

There's zero reason to fiddle with the other settings if speed is your primary concern, no matter what some youtuber shouts at you. However, if you want to feel something else than what the game developers have intended, go ahead and fiddle. It's like using an equalizer when listening to music. I just want what the game developers intended (I also use neutral sounding speakers/headphones at home for music).

In-game, with 8 Nm, I use 1-1 with high downforce cars and 2-1 or 3-1 with road cars. That's simply what I'm quickest with and find it easiest to be consistent with. 5-1 in-game and 100% FFB, with 8 Nm and GT wheel, is for impressing friends and feeling manly on forums. With a heavier and bigger wheel however, that force will most likely be needed with road cars.

Only occasionally something happens on screen that should be felt in the wheel but isn't. This has to be entirely the fault of the simplistic FFB in GTS. Otherwise, everything that happens and affects handling is felt extremely clearly in the wheel. There's no rumbling, vibration, cogging or whatever except for this - perfect smoothness.
I wouldn't complain if the FFB is completely unchanged in GT7, but sure, I wouldn't mind an improvement.

--

If anyone's using the desk clamp, pull the wheel upwards toward the ceiling when tightening the last bit. That will prevent flex vertically. Horizontally there's no flex.
The QR1 Lite is perfectly solid and quiet as well.
And if you bolt your desk to the wall, there's zero flex from anything - you get perfect silence and clear FFB.
Use zip ties on the pedal plate and a strap through those and around your front leg of your office chair to stop it from moving.

--

If I'm mistaken about something, please tell me. And if you have further advice, please share!

 

[CBH]

An update, if anyone's interested.

I've settled on the settings recommended by Fanatec, but changing NDP to OFF and INT to 1. This is a bit harsher, and will oscillate if you let go of the wheel, but provides quicker and more clear FFB. NDP is dampening everything and INT is intrapolating the FFB signal. I understand why Fanatec recommends NDP 25 and INT 3 - it's clear and crisp enough but safer than NDP OFF and INT 1 (it's softer and won't oscillate).

I don't notice any difference between LIN and PEAK, except that LIN is much weaker. So I'm sticking to PEAK.

There's zero reason to fiddle with the other settings if speed is your primary concern, no matter what some youtuber shouts at you. However, if you want to feel something else than what the game developers have intended, go ahead and fiddle. It's like using an equalizer when listening to music. I just want what the game developers intended (I also use neutral sounding speakers/headphones at home for music).

In-game, with 8 Nm, I use 1-1 with high downforce cars and 2-1 or 3-1 with road cars. That's simply what I'm quickest with and find it easiest to be consistent with. 5-1 in-game and 100% FFB, with 8 Nm and GT wheel, is for impressing friends and feeling manly on forums. With a heavier and bigger wheel however, that force will most likely be needed with road cars.

Only occasionally something happens on screen that should be felt in the wheel but isn't. This has to be entirely the fault of the simplistic FFB in GTS. Otherwise, everything that happens and affects handling is felt extremely clearly in the wheel. There's no rumbling, vibration, cogging or whatever except for this - perfect smoothness.
I wouldn't complain if the FFB is completely unchanged in GT7, but sure, I wouldn't mind an improvement.

--

If anyone's using the desk clamp, pull the wheel upwards toward the ceiling when tightening the last bit. That will prevent flex vertically. Horizontally there's no flex.
The QR1 Lite is perfectly solid and quiet as well.
And if you bolt your desk to the wall, there's zero flex from anything - you get perfect silence and clear FFB.
Use zip ties on the pedal plate and a strap through those and around your front leg of your office chair to stop it from moving.

--

If I'm mistaken about something, please tell me. And if you have further advice, please share!

@super_gt said this by Increasing INT and decreasing FEI will make the GT DD to feel smoother, and if feel a lot smoother by them settings. There's no rumbling, vibration and just very smooth going around corners.

 

[HugoTwoWheels]

@super_gt said this by Increasing INT and decreasing FEI will make the GT DD to feel smoother, and if feel a lot smoother by them settings. There's no rumbling, vibration and just very smooth going around corners.

Yep, sounds right. FEI is smoothening, where lower than 100 makes it smoother. @DomB_Fanatec said somewhere that INT was the preferred smoothing option, while lowering FEI is more crude (detail killing). So low FEI and high INT would make it smooth. I don't want it smooth however when there's slight grip loss - I want it sharp and clear so I can react as quickly as possible (still a lot slower than the best).

I've never tried a belt based wheel but I imagine that some of these settings emulate that stretching of the rubber belt. You can easily make the DD feel very mild and "rubbery", or you can have it very sharp and clear.

 

[CBH]

Yep, sounds right. FEI is smoothening, where lower than 100 makes it smoother. @DomB_Fanatec said somewhere that INT was the preferred smoothing opting, while lowering FEI is more crude (detail killing). So low FEI and high INT would make it smooth. I don't want it smooth however when there's slight grip loss - I want it sharp and clear so I can react as quickly as possible (still a lot slower than the best).

I've never tried a belt based wheel but I imagine that some of these settings emulate that stretching of the rubber belt. You can easily make the DD feel very mild and "rubbery", or you can have it very sharp and clear.

Just over a months time we will try in out the GT DD on GT7, and I can't wait for that. By the way the tire physics in GTS are not that good.

 

[HugoTwoWheels]

Just over a months time we will try in out the GT DD on GT7, and I can't wait for that. By the way the tire physics in GTS are not that good.

I think I'll be using the exact same Fanatec tuning settings no matter the game. If GT7 has an excellent FFB signal, with high frequency, I'll turn INT off as well.
I'm curious however if the AUTO setting will have any signal sent to it from GT7, since it's the official wheel of the game.

And yeah, GTS maybe has no tyre physics at all. There are just varying levels of grip. I just tried with a road car, switching between comfort and racing tyres - I didn't notice anything but different grip levels.

I noticed something else though, which was expected. If you get a grainy/sandy/grinding feeling in the FFB, increase INT if you don't like it. On Off it's definitely noticeable, on 1 it's in most instances not noticeable/distracting.

 

[Yard_Sale]

Dudes, what’s the quickest way to get a CSL Dd with the boost kit?

 

[HugoTwoWheels]

Dudes, what’s the quickest way to get a CSL Dd with the boost kit?

GT DD Pro express and a separate official or DIY boost kit. (Don't start a discussion on DIY and warranty. And yes, this kit would be worth the money even if it was two or three times the price.)

 

[super_gt]

will the new CSL GT7 DD rim and pedals hook up with a year-ish old CSL elite base?

The pedals are compatible, I say that from personal experience.

You will probably need to update the base to the latest firmware.

 

[Yard_Sale]

GT DD Pro express and a separate official or DIY boost kit. (Don't start a discussion on DIY and warranty. And yes, this kit would be worth the money even if it was two or three times the price.)

Yea, was thinking that but it says the express bundle is sold out now

 

[HugoTwoWheels]

Yea, was thinking that but it says the express bundle is sold out now

Try VPN from EU and see if they'll send to US?

A different topic: Who knows what the difference is between max torque in-game and FFB in the wheelbase? The recommended 5/1 with 100%, with the GT wheel and 8 Nm, is too strong with fast cars. Lowering in-game FFB feels somewhat different from lowering it in the wheelbase. When using the recommended 5/1 and lowering to 40% instead, the FFB rattling effects feel much softer.

 

[Yard_Sale]

Try VPN from EU and see if they'll send to US?

A different topic: Who knows what the difference is between max torque in-game and FFB in the wheelbase? The recommended 5/1 with 100%, with the GT wheel and 8 Nm, is too strong with fast cars. Lowering in-game FFB feels somewhat different from lowering it in the wheelbase. When using the recommended 5/1 and lowering to 40% instead, the FFB rattling effects feel much softer.

Check this vid out


So, I just ordered the 8nm version. Have you guys gotten your wheel to clip yet? And if so, how high did you have the torque set? I plan on running this thing as high as I can without clipping

 

[HugoTwoWheels]

Check this vid out


So, I just ordered the 8nm version. Have you guys gotten your wheel to clip yet? And if so, how high did you have the torque set? I plan on running this thing as high as I can without clipping

Thanks! I like Z28gaming - I'll check it out!

On 100% and 5/1 it's stupid heavy with the GT wheel and doesn't clip. Above 5 max torque it should clip, as it's above 100% gain, I guess.
My G29 was definitely crap above 5/1.

This daily race C, Gr.2, I'm running 5/1 and 30%... Or 1/1 and 100%...
Anything heavier and I get slower.

Edit: I just tried his advice. It's crap - clipping as hell. But he'd be faster than I am no matter what, even without FFB.
Youtubers all want to be so special and make it so complicated. Just follow @DomB_Fanatec recommended settings on the Fanatec forums and possibly tweak a few parameters if you understand them. Otherwise, the recommended settings are far better than any Youtuber's trying to have uncovered the secret magic formula.

Edit 2: Just tried ACC on PC. What an orgy of sensations... With G29 it was utter crap (so much plastic rattling that it is difficult to differentiate from the small signals ACC is sending). I still prefer the FFB in GTS, but I totally understand why many like the FFB in ACC. If you're into ACC and get a DD wheel, you won't be disappointed.

 

[CBH]

Check this vid out


So, I just ordered the 8nm version. Have you guys gotten your wheel to clip yet? And if so, how high did you have the torque set? I plan on running this thing as high as I can without clipping

I have FFB wheel setting at 70% and in game 1/1 setting with no clipping, and that is with the 8Nm booster kit.

 

[Yard_Sale]

It says mid March. Maaaaaaybe I’ll get it sooner. I think Fanatec has a distributer somewhere in Los Angeles, and I’m just down the road in San Diego. I really wanted a DD1, and I was ready to buy a rig and everything (currently on a heavily modded playseat challenge), but with no availability for 6 months, and GT7 coming out soon….. my hand was “forced” into treating myself to a DD wheel now

 

[Yard_Sale]

The pedals are compatible, I say that from personal experience.

View attachment 1109685
You will probably need to update the base to the latest firmware.

Will these new CSL pedals hook up to my old CSL elite wheel base?

 

[super_gt]

Will these new CSL pedals hook up to my old CSL elite wheel base?

Yes.

 

[PJTierney]

I wonder...

• Wait until a standalone base is available...
• ...or buy the bundle and try to sell off the wheel and pedals since I already have a set that has Xbox chips in them

🤔

 

[Kalder]

I wonder...

• Wait until a standalone base is available...
• ...or buy the bundle and try to sell off the wheel and pedals since I already have a set that has Xbox chips in them

🤔

Good luck with that second option, I've gone to a 2nd hand website (in the Netherlands) and found lots of people are trying to sell their wheel and pedals only that came with the GT DD Pro.

 

[PJTierney]

Good luck with that second option, I've gone to a 2nd hand website (in the Netherlands) and found lots of people are trying to sell their wheel and pedals only that came with the GT DD Pro.

I could afford it no problem, it's just the hassle of then dealing with selling something 😅

Then again, I'd have to off my CSL Elite base too.