Fanatec Gran Turismo DD Pro
- Thread starter daan
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- 5
- Mancha Real, Jaén
- 335
- Germany
- helmi2398
I am just waiting for the first person here who has a shipping confirmation...
I am laughing, meanwhile I received a shipping confirmation for a delivery the next day. Can't wait for it now!!
I am laughing, meanwhile I received a shipping confirmation for a delivery the next day. Can't wait for it now!!
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- 2,323
- United States
A heads up for US buyers: it appears the California warehouse is out of QR1 Lite adapters.
Some people on Reddit are reporting that their entire order, made weeks ago and now that everything is available, are not being shipped because this free plastic adapter is no longer in stock. If you add a CSL wheel to your cart you will see that there is no way to opt-out. The only alternative is to spend another $100 on the Clubsport QR.
So for those looking to upgrade to the McLaren GT3 or WRC wheel for $200 you will now need to budget another hundred for the quick release or wait until April.
EDIT: to those who pre-ordered the bundle I doubt you have anything to worry about since the GT wheel comes with the QR1 Lite already installed inside the box. /EDIT
Some people on Reddit are reporting that their entire order, made weeks ago and now that everything is available, are not being shipped because this free plastic adapter is no longer in stock. If you add a CSL wheel to your cart you will see that there is no way to opt-out. The only alternative is to spend another $100 on the Clubsport QR.
So for those looking to upgrade to the McLaren GT3 or WRC wheel for $200 you will now need to budget another hundred for the quick release or wait until April.
EDIT: to those who pre-ordered the bundle I doubt you have anything to worry about since the GT wheel comes with the QR1 Lite already installed inside the box. /EDIT
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- 444
- Sweden
- 21
- Oregon
- markemark14
- markblack14
In case anyone wants to know... I can now confirm that the CSL DD Pro works with GT5 and GT6 with the DriveHub flawless with force feedback even. This will tide me over till March 4th. Yay!
- 2,323
- United States
I got my boost kit today and did a league rally in WRC 10 and some hotlaps in Suzuka with the Gr. 3 WRX. The increase in the fidelity and detail of the FFB is incredible. Now I know why the YouTubers push the boost kit so much. It's not the brute force that matters here, but the unlocking of the full dynamic range of the wheelbase. My five laps in GT Sport reminded me of the sensation I had the first time I fired up ACC on my PC with the Logitech G29. And we're talking about Gran Turismo here! Thoroughly impressed! Now I am REALLY looking forward to try next-gen ACC on PS5!
@HugoTwoWheels don't take this the wrong way, but in GTS I was not satisfied with your 1/1 FFB suggestion. Not only does it feel too light, but it also seems that some detail is being lost. Force on 2 was more to my liking force wise but I still wasn't satisfied with the information from the wheel. At 3 and 4 (I never tried 5 or above, would be way too strong) I felt more detail than at 1 and 2. 4 is too strong, even 3 is hairy in high speed turns in Gr. 3, but manageable.
I get the impression that you are against raising sensitivity to 2 or more, and I 100% understand the reasoning behind that. But, as devil's advocate, have you tried upping your FFB sensitivity a notch to see if it brings more detail to your low force value of 1? Just curious because the 1/1 setting felt even more numb than my G29 which is hands down the worst wheel for Gran Turismo.
@HugoTwoWheels don't take this the wrong way, but in GTS I was not satisfied with your 1/1 FFB suggestion. Not only does it feel too light, but it also seems that some detail is being lost. Force on 2 was more to my liking force wise but I still wasn't satisfied with the information from the wheel. At 3 and 4 (I never tried 5 or above, would be way too strong) I felt more detail than at 1 and 2. 4 is too strong, even 3 is hairy in high speed turns in Gr. 3, but manageable.
I get the impression that you are against raising sensitivity to 2 or more, and I 100% understand the reasoning behind that. But, as devil's advocate, have you tried upping your FFB sensitivity a notch to see if it brings more detail to your low force value of 1? Just curious because the 1/1 setting felt even more numb than my G29 which is hands down the worst wheel for Gran Turismo.
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- 444
- Sweden
1/1 with 100% in the wheelbase equates to about 5/1 (as Fanatec always recommends) and maybe 30% in the wheelbase, roughly as it feels in my hands. For cars like Gr.2 and faster, especially formula cars and Red Bull competition car, this works best for me. Any higher and I just get slower and more tired (I'm very fit, strength and endurance wise).
There are some oddities or bugs with 1/1 so I've settled with 5/1 and changing strength in the wheelbase instead.
With Gr.3 cars, 40-50% seems best for me. And with N300 cars, around 60%. 100% is just stupid - unless for impressing friends.
This is with the GT DD wheel. And I'm all about what makes me faster, not detail and immersion on the straights. I want to be able to drive on the limit consistently for 90 minutes in league races, with lap times within a couple of seconds and hardly any mistakes. So I need the strength to be enough to let me know what's happening - any more and it's just unnecessary resistance making me tired. Too little and I get a hard time predicting and catching slides.
Raising ffb sens in-game does bring out more detail in low ffb situations since it increases the floor of the dynamic range. However, there's a huge downside to this - it all becomes compressed, making it harder to differentiate between grip and slide. @DomB_Fanatec confirms this in some posts, and it's probably why Fanatec recommends it. Even on a G29, I'd rather have a huge deadzone in the middle and sloppy feeling, than having a hard time noticing understeer and slight oversteer. If there were no downsides to high ffb sens, there wouldn't be an option to change it.
Yeah, it doesn't feel "real", but I prefer it that way, and I'm sure it's intended that way. I really dislike the FFB in ACC. GT Sports feels infinitely more intuitive to me - when driving, the ffb "disappears" and I only focus on the racing. That's immersion to me, not the FFB in ACC.
A side-note: I actually believe that you need less ffb strength the more skilled you are. Let someone totally new to the game try the Porsche 911 81- or 95- on comfort tyres. It'll be impossible for them to drive it with low ffb strength, but at 100% ffb strength anyone can drive it since it becomes so obvious where the limit is and it becomes super hard to oversteer on lift-off into corners - the wheel doesn't let you.
Also, the smaller and weaker you are, the less ffb strength you'd need. Someone who's 100 kg, male, strong, un-skilled, using a 32 cm wheel, will probably need far beyond what a CSL DD/GT DD can deliver.
So, in conclusion, the ffb strength should be as low as possible while still allowing you to feel everything that's needed for handling.
Or, as high as possible, without making you tired or making it sluggish to dominate the wheel with lightning fast precision.
Makes sense? Please prove me wrong or give advice. I gain nothing from being correct (let's put ego aside).
I am at 50% ffb and I am still 1/1 in game setting for GT Sport, and that is my limit as being faster. @Pfei I have tried in game 2/1 and 3/1 and guess what, I am slower over several laps using them settlings. So to me in game 1/1 setting is better if you want to be consistant.
I have settled on using my CSL Elite rim all the time now than the GT rim, because I have tested both and the CSL Elite comes well ahead on feel and class.
- 2,323
- United States
@CBH @HugoTwoWheels Oh I definitely wasn't challenging your settings, just asking if you feel enough detail with FFB torque at 1. I personally don't. Gave it another spin this morning and settled on 2. 3 is just way too strong. 2 gives me a great balance between force and detail. Using official Fanatec base settings.
- 444
- Sweden
If you want more detail, start with the recommended settings by Fanatec but lower INT until it starts feeling too harsh. I left mine at 1. In GT7, hopefully it can be turned off entirely, since I'm assuming the FFB signal will be of higher frequency so that intrapolation in the wheelbase isn't needed.
Also, NDP kills some detail (quickness). If you don't have problems with dangerous or annoying oscillation, turn it off.
I still get ffb detail at 1/1 even using these setting below. Talking about settings it's like if I gave someone a really good car setup for a online Tim Trial, and they may not like it and change a few thing on the car to suit their driving style. So I guess everyone has there own preference even when it comes to the wheel settings as well.
SEN AUE
FF 50
FF SCAL PEAK 1
NAT DAMP 30
NAT FRI OFF
NAT INE 80
FFB INT 20
FEI 10
FORCE 070
SPRING 100
DAMPER 100
BRK.LVL 100
SHCK.VIB 100
BRAKEF. 40
- 2,323
- United States
I just finished 2nd in the Road to GT7 event with the WRX at Suzuka despite being 17th seed in an A/S room and with a total lack of confidence and practice and also having not played GTS for two years. I used the McLaren GT3 V2 rim that arrived today and bumped the in-game torque to 3 since the wheel is 30mm bigger than the GT rim.
The GT DD Pro has totally transformed GTS compared to my Logitech. It's such a different (and better) experience.
The understeer rattle is much more pronounced than with the GT rim. Like double I would say. It's annoying. Anyone have any ideas to tone down that ridiculous understeer shaking?
The GT DD Pro has totally transformed GTS compared to my Logitech. It's such a different (and better) experience.
The understeer rattle is much more pronounced than with the GT rim. Like double I would say. It's annoying. Anyone have any ideas to tone down that ridiculous understeer shaking?
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- 2,426
- The failed experiment entitled “California”.
The only thing I can think of, is coming down on the FEI setting.
Its funny. I for one like the under steer rattle that GTS gives us. I figure, that if they can’t accurately simulate the wheel going light from under steer, might as well have some indication for us to interpret. Which in all honesty, I think PD programmed under steer FFB like that in purpose
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As @Yard_Sale said put the FEI setting down to it stop the rattle when understeering.
- 444
- Sweden
I also found 1/1 with 100% FF to have more pronounced rattling effects than 5/1 with lower FF. I'm assuming this is a bug.
The other bug with 1/1 is that the wheel would sometimes become heavier after entering menus during a race. Doesn't occur with 5/1.
And the third is the wheel sometimes turning fully to one side during menus while racing.
--
If I recall correctly, Fanatec recommends increasing INT instead of lowering FEI, for a more sophisticated smoothening.
Look through this if you want to tinker with settings other than FF, INT, NDP.
fanatec.com
The other bug with 1/1 is that the wheel would sometimes become heavier after entering menus during a race. Doesn't occur with 5/1.
And the third is the wheel sometimes turning fully to one side during menus while racing.
--
If I recall correctly, Fanatec recommends increasing INT instead of lowering FEI, for a more sophisticated smoothening.
Look through this if you want to tinker with settings other than FF, INT, NDP.
Fanatec
fanatec.com
What you are saying is true when you are playing GT Sport so really it's not ment for that game, but I don't know about other games like ACC.I also found 1/1 with 100% FF to have more pronounced rattling effects than 5/1 with lower FF. I'm assuming this is a bug.
The other bug with 1/1 is that the wheel would sometimes become heavier after entering menus during a race. Doesn't occur with 5/1.
And the third is the wheel sometimes turning fully to one side during menus while racing.
--
If I recall correctly, Fanatec recommends increasing INT instead of lowering FEI, for a more sophisticated smoothening.
Look through this if you want to tinker with settings other than FF, INT, NDP.
Fanatec
PirovacBoy
Premium
- 1,456
- Cologne/Germany
- PirovacBoy
Hi @Pfei could you share your thoughts and impressions on your V2 Rim. Like making some comparisons to the Original GT DD Pro Rim.
The Original Rim has 28cm in diameter, compared to the 30cm in the V2.
Does it make a difference in handling?! Is it harder to make fast corrections due to its bigger diameter?
How about the Button Support? Can I map them as I like in GTS.
What about the FFB Effects being translated to the V2 Rim, again, in comparison.
I couldn’t find any info on the Original GT Rims‘ weight.
The V2 Rim should weigh around 1.1kg as far as I’ve read.
I recently upgraded from my Original T300GT Rim to an Open Wheel Add-On Rim and I noticed a big difference in FFB. Although they have the same size, the lighter Weight of the Open Wheel Add-On definitely gives more detailed FFB.
I personally do prefer the lighter Open Wheel, hence I‘m curious to hear your thoughts.
And actually, the main Reason I’m asking for this is the fact that 2 days ago, I sold my complete previous Setup including my beloved Playseat Challenge and placed my Order on the GT DD Pro Premium Bundle and the all new Playseat Trophy.
So actually, I’m very excited to get my hands on them.
I was thinking about adding an Open Wheel to my Order, but have not decided yet on which one to choose.
I‘m kind of stuck between the V2 Rim and the F1 eSports V2 Rim, or the Formula V 2.5 / X Rims.
The sheer Amount of choices just blows my Mind.
But anyway, I’d really appreciate to hear your thoughts. Give us your insights and let us know what you think.
I‘m sure there are quite a few People out there to gladly hear your opinion
- 2,323
- United States
These are initial impressions. Please keep in mind I am basing this on literally a single online race in GT Sport with the McLaren GT v2 rim so take it with a pinch of salt for now.
ACC on console does allow the rotary dials to be mapped, however only as + or -. I haven't even tried console ACC yet. I am waiting for the next gen version.
PC obviously is a different story. Everything is mappable.
I stand corrected, the McLaren is 20mm bigger, not 30mm.
It took me about five minutes to adjust. Yes, it's different, but no so much that you have to "unlearn" anything after using a smaller wheel. It's like going karting after sim racing. Everything feels different but you're up to speed in no time. If anything I felt more confident since it's a bit smoother with the inputs. And I had no problem saving the WRX when the rear end started stepping out on worn tires, or quickly reacting to the car ahead moving under braking to block me.
Button support depends on the game. GTS is very limited and I knew that before ordering. I haven't messed around with mapping, but the rotary encoders do not work in GTS. The big P and N buttons are hard-coded to Share and Options on all games and can't be remapped. The little red switches in GTS default to increasing or decreasing values in you HUD (like brake bias) which is convenient but cycling through the HUD system is through the funky switch (whose rotary functionality also doesn't work). In a nutshell all buttons except P, N and the rotary dials can be mapped. I did not try the clutch paddles.
ACC on console does allow the rotary dials to be mapped, however only as + or -. I haven't even tried console ACC yet. I am waiting for the next gen version.
PC obviously is a different story. Everything is mappable.
The FFB felt identical when switching to the McLaren except you will notice a small loss in force through your hands since the resisting bending moment from your arm is larger due to the bigger diameter. In other words the base is kicking out the same torque but because of the longer distance to your hands it's easier for you to resist. The difference is small but noticeable and as noted earlier I changed in-game FFB torque from 2 to 3 to compensate. To summarize: yes, you will have to do some adjustments when switching rims but no, you will not loose or gain any detail.
The GT rim weighs 1045g so both are nearly the same weight. Both are budget rims and it shows but the McLaren feels more solid and higher quality. And it's a lot more fun to race with!
Congrats on your new rig! Yes it is mind-blowing all the choices there are. I have a WRC wheel in the mail now. I can't stop buying stuff 😂
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PirovacBoy
Premium
- 1,456
- Cologne/Germany
- PirovacBoy
@Pfei thanks on the quick response.
So actually like you said, turning up FFB in Game compensates the small loss of torque, right?! Very cool.
Other than that, there is no significant difference, that’s how I‘d summarize your impressions.
But anyway, keep us updated on your long term thoughts.
As I’m not in a rush and still haven’t decided on which Open Wheel to go with, it would be cool to hear if you notice any new up/downsides.
Btw, Fanatec Homepage states that the Bundle should be available on March 14th.
I wonder if there’s any chance I might get my Order earlier. I live in Germany, so I might have an advantage over you Guys sitting across the Ocean
How long did it took them to deliver your Bundle, from the Moment you placed your Order until it was finally delivered?
Maybe some others here might share their experiences with their Order.
I just hope for a delivery before March 4th.
Maybe @DomB_Fanatec might have some answers.
Please, don’t disappoint me, keep my hopes high
So actually like you said, turning up FFB in Game compensates the small loss of torque, right?! Very cool.
Other than that, there is no significant difference, that’s how I‘d summarize your impressions.
But anyway, keep us updated on your long term thoughts.
As I’m not in a rush and still haven’t decided on which Open Wheel to go with, it would be cool to hear if you notice any new up/downsides.
Btw, Fanatec Homepage states that the Bundle should be available on March 14th.
I wonder if there’s any chance I might get my Order earlier. I live in Germany, so I might have an advantage over you Guys sitting across the Ocean
How long did it took them to deliver your Bundle, from the Moment you placed your Order until it was finally delivered?
Maybe some others here might share their experiences with their Order.
I just hope for a delivery before March 4th.
Maybe @DomB_Fanatec might have some answers.
Please, don’t disappoint me, keep my hopes high
- 2,323
- United States
I have seen Europeans on Reddit getting the warehouse processing emails for their preorder bundles so it's possible.
Eight days with FedEx ground from warehouse processing to delivery. I ordered while their warehouse was shut down so under normal circumstances it probably would have been ten days. I did 2-day on my handbrake and that took a total of four days. The McLaren FedEx ground took eleven days from order to delivery. FedEx ground is very slow and Fanatec is also very slow at processing orders, printing shipping labels and organizing the pick-up. However in Europe everything seems to be much quicker.
- 2,323
- United States
One thing I forgot to mention about the McLaren wheel is how the shift paddles are a single piece of metal and it rocks. That means you can upshift or downshift with either paddle. That's useful if you are on a straight and fiddling with settings with one hand, you can still upshift with your other hand, no matter which hand you are doing the fiddling with.
PirovacBoy
Premium
- 1,456
- Cologne/Germany
- PirovacBoy
Front to back push/pull or vice versa, I get it. Awesome, that’s definitely a cool feature on the single piece Shifter Plate.
How is the tactile feel of the Shifter. I read it’s magnetic which is a must if you ask me.
I have had my Thrustmaster Open Wheel Add-On upgraded with the 3d rap Magnetic Shifter Mod and it completely transformed the experience. I‘m all in for these immersive Gimmicks.
Btw, how do the Shift Paddles work on the Original GT Rim.
Are they Magnetic too ?! Big bummer for me in case they wouldn’t, if you ask me.
And therefore definitely a Reason to Upgrade.
I‘m almost convinced that I’ll go with the V2 Rim.
It seems to be a decent Value and a true bang for buck Rim.
- 2,323
- United States
Yes the paddles are magnetic and feel great, even if they are a bit on the loud side, which is an easy fix with some felt if you want. The GT rim has normal click shifters which also feel good. I don't mind either way, they both feel fine.
The McLaren rim is definitely a great buy for the money.
The GT rim feels good and the paddle shifters are good as well, but it is good rim for a spare just in case the CSL Elite has an issue.
I said in one of my posts a few days ago about the GT rim has nightmare button layouts on the wheel, and it turns out they are not as bad after all, once you get use to the layout of the buttons. So I may switch the rims from time to time instead of just using one rim.
- 1,785
- Illinois
- no1needs2perish
Oh man, Pfei, I finished 3rd just behind you! (I’m no1needs2perish) Don’t know how you pulled it off in that WRX, it was slow in the straights! Well done!
I ditched my setup last minute and went with a tune on the Aston DB9 from an alien. It was very good but a problem for me since I refuse to use ABS (long story). So I had to be very careful since the car’s ass wanted to pass the car’s front on braking. Your pit strategy is what got me because I do better chasing. I had 16 second lead most of the race, so I didn’t push. Realized late that you and 1st probably got your 2 pits out of the way.
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- 2
- Norway
After consuming a lot of information from the posts from all of you, i just bought myself the fanatec GT DD pro. I was about to buy the logitech g923, but it seems like its a big difference in what kinda product you get. And it said it was ready to ship. I did not get the better pedal like some of you advice to get, but im comming from logitech g27, so it will be a major upgrade anyways i belive. Is there something i ought to do before i start using it? Or is it Just plug and play?
I bought it so i could race in GT7 if that is relevant info. Wow, im looking forward to start using it!
I bought it so i could race in GT7 if that is relevant info. Wow, im looking forward to start using it!
- 335
- Germany
- helmi2398
As it is a ready to drive set, you can start directly after you receive it.
I recommend to setup the recommending settings of Fanatec, because it feels very different compared to the standard setup you drive in auto modus.
The best thing you can do:
Install the driver on your PC. Install newest firmware. Try different setups just before GT7, so you will be able to be ready in two weeks.
I received mine last week, and now have a first setup which feels better than the recommended setup from Fanatec. You don't need much time for build a new setup.
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