Fanatec Gran Turismo DD Pro

  • Thread starter daan
  • 2,392 comments
  • 429,039 views
I could afford it no problem, it's just the hassle of then dealing with selling something 😅

Then again, I'd have to off my CSL Elite base too.
The differences is you could offer a complete setup that would get someone off a controller! You would be helping the racing world a better place. You’re part in helping others…. :cheers:
 
Has anyone tried the load cell brake pedal to this kit? I have zero issues braking with perfect precision, but it's always fun to try new stuff - maybe I'm missing out on something.

From what I've understood about this matter, potentiometer, hall effect sensor or load cell, in combination with springs, rubber inserts and foam, can all feel and behave exactly the same. The difference is that you can tailor the pressure and travel needed much easier with a load cell. There's of course also the benefit of changing the required pressure needed for 100% braking effect in the driver.
So, if I'm correct, and I'm happy with the standard brake pedal, and configure a load cell to be comfortable on my gentle foot in a sock, there would be no difference? However, if I want to simulate a race car, formula car, or wear shoes, I'd need a load cell since there are no available mods for the standard kit?

When looking at opinions of people with load cell, it seems to me they don't even know how this stuff works... It's all just "yeah bro, get the load cell - you'll be much faster!". Youtubers are crap as well, with their nonsense flashy review - there's very little technical description, if any at all.
 
Has anyone tried the load cell brake pedal to this kit? I have zero issues braking with perfect precision, but it's always fun to try new stuff - maybe I'm missing out on something.

From what I've understood about this matter, potentiometer, hall effect sensor or load cell, in combination with springs, rubber inserts and foam, can all feel and behave exactly the same. The difference is that you can tailor the pressure and travel needed much easier with a load cell. There's of course also the benefit of changing the required pressure needed for 100% braking effect in the driver.
So, if I'm correct, and I'm happy with the standard brake pedal, and configure a load cell to be comfortable on my gentle foot in a sock, there would be no difference? However, if I want to simulate a race car, formula car, or wear shoes, I'd need a load cell since there are no available mods for the standard kit?

When looking at opinions of people with load cell, it seems to me they don't even know how this stuff works... It's all just "yeah bro, get the load cell - you'll be much faster!". Youtubers are crap as well, with their nonsense flashy review - there's very little technical description, if any at all.
The standard hall effect sensor brake pedal has long travel and low pressure.
The CSL Load Cell Kit has short travel and pressure which can reach 60kg if BRF is set to 100%. Note that the pedal travel is not adjustable. The higher the BRF value you use, the longer the travel will be.
If you use a low BRF value you don't need cockpit, but if you want to use high BRF value and high pressure you will need a cockpit.
 
I wonder does anyone's DD Pro turn on the PS5? Mine doesn't and I find this puzzling since it's an official product. Is it because it uses USB and not Bluetooth?
 
I have F1 DD1 and it will not turn on the PS. I use the ARC HDMI on TV to turn on PS5 (or the other way around; PS5 turns on TV). Either way, I’m firing up the Fanatec system independently.
 
Hi Guys,

I've just got this wheel in anticipation of GT7 and I'm pretty happy with it. I applied the recommended settings from a couple of pages back, but I was wondering if you guys have other settings for F1 2021 and ACC on PS5 both in the wheel and in game?

Thanks in advance.
 
Hi Guys,

I've just got this wheel in anticipation of GT7 and I'm pretty happy with it. I applied the recommended settings from a couple of pages back, but I was wondering if you guys have other settings for F1 2021 and ACC on PS5 both in the wheel and in game?

Thanks in advance.
If you haven't check the Fanatec forums. They are a good starting point:


 
If you haven't check the Fanatec forums. They are a good starting point:


Thanks, I'll give those a try.
 
Thanks, I'll give those a try.
I don't play all the games they have recommended settings for, but I've glanced through them and noticed that they only seem to change a couple of things in the Tuning Menu, for good reason. Regarding in-game settings, just copy them and don't fiddle.

If you start with the entirely standard settings and only fiddle with FF, NDP and INT, you'll be happy. FF is strength, INT is intrapolating a low frequency FFB signal so that it doesn't buzz and feel harsh in your hands, and NDP is adding dampening so that it doesn't oscillate when you let go of it as a by product of poor FFB signal from the game.

For me, on a 8 Nm wheel, FF 30-60, INT 1 and NDP Off works best so far. I tried it quickly in ACC on PC and it was equally fine there. Fanatec recommended settings of higher INT and NDP - but lower than standard - are also excellent, and a bit safer since it won't ever oscillate. FF is a matter of preference (in my opinion, most people have this too high if speed is the primary objective).

The rest of the settings seem to be available for those wanting to simulate a specific feeling that they experience in real life and like. I don't care - I just want to feel the signal from the game as pure as possible.
 
I don't play all the games they have recommended settings for, but I've glanced through them and noticed that they only seem to change a couple of things in the Tuning Menu, for good reason. Regarding in-game settings, just copy them and don't fiddle.

If you start with the entirely standard settings and only fiddle with FF, NDP and INT, you'll be happy. FF is strength, INT is intrapolating a low frequency FFB signal so that it doesn't buzz and feel harsh in your hands, and NDP is adding dampening so that it doesn't oscillate when you let go of it as a by product of poor FFB signal from the game.

For me, on a 8 Nm wheel, FF 30-60, INT 1 and NDP Off works best so far. I tried it quickly in ACC on PC and it was equally fine there. Fanatec recommended settings of higher INT and NDP - but lower than standard - are also excellent, and a bit safer since it won't ever oscillate. FF is a matter of preference (in my opinion, most people have this too high if speed is the primary objective).

The rest of the settings seem to be available for those wanting to simulate a specific feeling that they experience in real life and like. I don't care - I just want to feel the signal from the game as pure as possible.
Thanks, that's very useful information to know.
 
Will this will mount to just about any cockpit? I have only ever used a wheel stand, I need to upgrade this as well.
 
Needing a windows pc for updates might be a problem for me. My laptop is in it’s final days.
 
Needing a windows pc for updates might be a problem for me. My laptop is in it’s final days.
It will definitely work without an update. Any PC will do so maybe you can borrow one for the 5 minutes it takes to update if you are not getting a new one.
 
Was this before brexit?
My last order was in 2021. If I remember correctly, Fanatec’s store prices don’t include VAT, so when it comes to the UK you have to add 20% or so right away. On top of this is whatever UPS charge for handling.
 
Last edited:
Hey there, is it possible to use a Thrustmaster or Logitech shifter with this base on PS4/5? Or will you need a Drivehub for this?
 
In Europe it appears that the preorders are shipping early. Lots of people getting the warehouse processing email.
 
I received that mail some hours before. I am crazy now and can‘t wait. Would be awesome to receive the wheel before GT7 release.
I wonder whether I receive my ordered GT DD before March 14th after reading this.
This message just after the express preorder was dropped to 750€.. seems that I had a good feeling about it.
 
I got my Express bundle yesterday. McLaren GT3 wheel, boost kit and handbrake arriving this week. WRC wheel and load cell brake will be my March treat.

The base is amazing. The directness and fidelity of the FFB in GT Sport blows the Logitech G out of the water. I did a lot of GTS Race B Interlagos recently, and after just five laps with this DD I was able to improve my time by five-tenths. It's incredible how timely and informative the forces are. Gives me more confidence to push since there are feelings there that weren't present with the G923. Huge improvement in GT Sport. WRC 10 is a disaster. The game is still forcing me to use the Logitech preset. There is no way to change it. And I had to do a lot of tuning just to get the FFB serviceable. Not sure what's up with the game "forcing" me to continue using the Logitech setup. Kinda weird in a game that has the Fanatec logo plastered all over it!

I really dislike the GT wheel rim. It looks and feels solid, and I don't mind the toy look, but the button layout is horrible. I can't reach any mappable button with my thumbs. The d-pads make a loud and annoying click. My thumbs get stuck between the wheel rim and the colored Gran Turismo sticks. It's just terrible ergonomically speaking.

Mounting on the NLR GTLite was a nightmare. The pedals were easy, but the very limited position options on the wheel plate had me bolting and unbolting three times before I got something serviceable, albeit too close to me for my liking.

Later I will update the firmware and give it a spin on PC. Also looking forward to ACC PS5 on the 22nd.
 
Last edited:
I really dislike the GT wheel rim. It looks and feels solid, and I don't mind the toy look, but the button layout is horrible. I can't reach any mappable button with my thumbs. The d-pads make a loud and annoying click. My thumbs get stuck between the wheel rim and the colored Gran Turismo sticks. It's just terrible ergonomically speaking.
I feel the same way about the buttons as well. I have small hands and all the buttons require quite a lot of reaching. The d-pad is so stiff that I'm worried about breaking it just by normal use. I'll be using other wheels as soon as they arrive.
 
Last edited:
I got my Express bundle yesterday. McLaren GT3 wheel, boost kit and handbrake arriving this week. WRC wheel and load cell brake will be my March treat.

The base is amazing. The directness and fidelity of the FFB in GT Sport blows the Logitech G out of the water. I did a lot of GTS Race B Interlagos recently, and after just five laps with this DD I was able to improve my time by five-tenths. It's incredible how timely and informative the forces are. Gives me more confidence to push since there are feelings there that weren't present with the G923. Huge improvement in GT Sport. WRC 10 is a disaster. The game is still forcing me to use the Logitech preset. There is no way to change it. And I had to do a lot of tuning just to get the FFB serviceable. Not sure what's up with the game "forcing" me to continue using the Logitech setup. Kinda weird in a game that has the Fanatec logo plastered all over it!

I really dislike the GT wheel rim. It looks and feels solid, and I don't mind the toy look, but the button layout is horrible. I can't reach any mappable button with my thumbs. The d-pads make a loud and annoying click. My thumbs get stuck between the wheel rim and the colored Gran Turismo sticks. It's just terrible ergonomically speaking.

Mounting on the NLR GTLite was a nightmare. The pedals were easy, but the very limited position options on the wheel plate had me bolting and unbolting three times before I got something serviceable, albeit too close to me for my liking.

Later I will update the firmware and give it a spin on PC. Also looking forward to ACC PS5 on the 22nd.
True about the button layout on the GT rim and the d-pads annoying clicks, them click sounds should be a soft sound. I may end up using my CSL Elite wheel instead of the GT wheel, because of the nightmare button layouts on the wheel.
 
CBH
True about the button layout on the GT rim and the d-pads annoying clicks, them click sounds should be a soft sound. I may end up using my CSL Elite wheel instead of the GT wheel, because of the nightmare button layouts on the wheel.
I feel the same way about the buttons as well. I have small hands and all the buttons require quite a lot of reaching. The d-pad is so stiff that I'm worried about breaking it just by normal use. I'll be using other wheels as soon as they arrive.
Agreed. As soon as I get the WRC wheel I am going to sell the Gran Turismo rim.
 
CBH
The question is who is going to buy the GT rim.
Believe it or not I have seen a few people asking on Reddit, Twitter, YouTube etc... if anyone has a wheel to sell. So who knows. I'll give it a shot on eBay for $150 and see what happens.
 

Latest Posts

Back