Fanatec Gran Turismo DD Pro

  • Thread starter daan
  • 2,392 comments
  • 428,864 views
CBH
Perhaps it's a Software/Hardware Bug for GT7 now when you have the FFB setting up to high for that game. When GT7 came out I had the FFB about 75% when using the 8Nm, and I had no issues with the wheel back then but that was to extreme setting for me to have it set at. So I went to the setting I liked the FFB at . I found a sweet spot with the FFB at 35% at 35% I still FFB feel in the wheel, any higher for me it does not feel right.
Click to expand...
To clarify it doesn’t go that much heavier, maybe like going from 5/1 to 6/1 and it actually feels even better to me that way but it can be a bit exhausting.
Also to add, it never clips.
Never.
I think FFB is a Preference thing though.
Each to his own 😁

@Yard_Sale what you describe is definitely not what I ever experienced.
Not in that Range.
Like I mentioned above a bit heavier nothing special.
Pause the Game and continue and it’s gone .
Happens very occasionally maybe 3-5 times during 10hour+ Sessions.
Also I never ever noticed any clipping in Road Cars, not once.
With my Settings 5/1 no matter if 100% or like I use it at 90%
 
Last edited:
PirovacBoy
To clarify it doesn’t go that much heavier, maybe like going from 5/1 to 6/1 and it actually feels even better to me that way but it can be a bit exhausting.
Also to add, it never clips.
Never.
I think FFB is a Preference thing though.
Each to his own 😁

@Yard_Sale what you describe is definitely not what I ever experienced.
Not in that Range.
Like I mentioned above a bit heavier nothing special.
Pause the Game and continue and it’s gone .
Happens very occasionally maybe 3-5 times during 10hour+ Sessions.
Also I never ever noticed any clipping in Road Cars, not once.
With my Settings 5/1 no matter if 100% or like I use it at 90%
Click to expand...
When you say you Pause the Game and continue and it’s gone to me that is kind of weird, I haves paused the game and nothing changes on my wheel with low FFB. So I guess it may be a FFB issue with GT7 when the FFB is set high with the the other setting you use on the wheel.
 
PirovacBoy
To clarify it doesn’t go that much heavier, maybe like going from 5/1 to 6/1 and it actually feels even better to me that way but it can be a bit exhausting.
Also to add, it never clips.
Never.
I think FFB is a Preference thing though.
Each to his own 😁

@Yard_Sale what you describe is definitely not what I ever experienced.
Not in that Range.
Like I mentioned above a bit heavier nothing special.
Pause the Game and continue and it’s gone .
Happens very occasionally maybe 3-5 times during 10hour+ Sessions.
Also I never ever noticed any clipping in Road Cars, not once.
With my Settings 5/1 no matter if 100% or like I use it at 90%
Click to expand...
I have the same. I don’t recall it happening mid race. Normally at a restart when doing a time trial. A quick pause and it’s gone just like you though.
 
Question for those of you who have the boost kit.
Do you have coil whine from the boost kit?
I now got my replacement, but it also has coil whine. Only slightly, but it is there.
It was the same with my original boost kit and it got much worse over time.
Within two months it went from "barely recognizable while sound is muted" to "very recognizable while game sound is on"
 
Yard_Sale
In GT7, the road cars clip like crazy. The race cars, not as much but frequently. The tomahawk…. Never
Click to expand...
Out of interest, how do you know the FFB in GT7 is clipping? Does it have an indicator for this like in iRacing or Project Cars 2?
 
NikNakTobasco
I have the same. I don’t recall it happening mid race. Normally at a restart when doing a time trial. A quick pause and it’s gone just like you though.
Click to expand...
Exactly, it never happened while driving, only after restart a Race like Time Trial.
It’s barely noticeable though and doesn’t bother me as it’s very minor.
Pause and unpause and it’s gone.
timekiller001
Question for those of you who have the boost kit.
Do you have coil whine from the boost kit?
I now got my replacement, but it also has coil whine. Only slightly, but it is there.
It was the same with my original boost kit and it got much worse over time.
Within two months it went from "barely recognizable while sound is muted" to "very recognizable while game sound is on"
Click to expand...
I never noticed any unusual Sounds with my BoostKit.
It’s absolutely quite.
I use the Wheel every Day and very often play for hours and hours without turning my Base off, sometimes 12+ Hours 😅 and never noticed Coil Whine.
The Power Unit doesn’t even get warm. I unplug it though when I finish Racing or when not in use so it’s never permanently plugged to the Socket.
Have you tried using another Socket or flipping/ turn the Cable 180 Degrees in the Socket.
Might be a Mass/Earth Issue.
Because it’s strange that even after you got your Replacement it’s still there and gets more noticeable the longer you play.
Is it noticeable as soon as you plug it to the Socket.
Even with the Wheelbase turned off ?!
Daz555
Does it have an indicator for this like in iRacing or Project Cars 2?
Click to expand...
No it doesn’t
 
Last edited:
timekiller001
Question for those of you who have the boost kit.
Do you have coil whine from the boost kit?
I now got my replacement, but it also has coil whine. Only slightly, but it is there.
It was the same with my original boost kit and it got much worse over time.
Within two months it went from "barely recognizable while sound is muted" to "very recognizable while game sound is on"
Click to expand...
No. Mine is completely silent.
 
PirovacBoy
I never noticed any unusual Sounds with my BoostKit.
It’s absolutely quite.
I use the Wheel every Day and very often play for hours and hours without turning my Base off, sometimes 12+ Hours 😅 and never noticed Coil Whine.
The Power Unit doesn’t even get warm. I unplug it though when I finish Racing or when not in use so it’s never permanently plugged to the Socket.
Have you tried using another Socket or flipping/ turn the Cable 180 Degrees in the Socket.
Might be a Mass/Earth Issue.
Because it’s strange that even after you got your Replacement it’s still there and gets more noticeable the longer you play.
Is it noticeable as soon as you plug it to the Socket.
Even with the Wheelbase turned off ?!
Click to expand...
No, it's just when the wheel is turned on. And then the noise is depending on what I'm doing, if I'm turning, if there's resistance (force feedback) etc.

I'll try another outlet later, but I doubt that's the issue.
 
Interesting data point…

Yesterday I jumped into the game and within no time, my wheel was beginning to go light again. Frustrated, I got back on the interwebz seeing if there was anyone else to experiencing my same issue, and I came across a Reddit thread about the scotch tape fix for the plastic QR. curious, I tried it… as my wheel does creak there somewhat often being that I run high torque values.

It worked

The wheel felt more solid, the FFB more communicative, and the rim NEVER ONCE WENT LIGHT.

It then hit me like a ton of bricks. When the rim slips ever so slightly in the QR, it’s sensed it the connection and thus the base, causing it to go light. A safety thing I’m assuming? Kinda like how a DD1 will go into low torque mode when you attach a CSL rim.

Anyways, it made a world of difference in a way I wasn’t expecting. The FFB still isn’t up to par with even GTS, but at least I’m not tearing my hair out anymore trying to figure out why the wheel is going light no matter how low I set the torque values
 
Yard_Sale
Interesting data point…

Yesterday I jumped into the game and within no time, my wheel was beginning to go light again. Frustrated, I got back on the interwebz seeing if there was anyone else to experiencing my same issue, and I came across a Reddit thread about the scotch tape fix for the plastic QR. curious, I tried it… as my wheel does creak there somewhat often being that I run high torque values.

It worked

The wheel felt more solid, the FFB more communicative, and the rim NEVER ONCE WENT LIGHT.

It then hit me like a ton of bricks. When the rim slips ever so slightly in the QR, it’s sensed it the connection and thus the base, causing it to go light. A safety thing I’m assuming? Kinda like how a DD1 will go into low torque mode when you attach a CSL rim.

Anyways, it made a world of difference in a way I wasn’t expecting. The FFB still isn’t up to par with even GTS, but at least I’m not tearing my hair out anymore trying to figure out why the wheel is going light no matter how low I set the torque values
Click to expand...
Fanatec should include sellotape with every purchase. Seems to be their fix for everything. They’d send it out with a separate tracking number of course though.
 
Ok so I had the crackling noise on my gt3 wheel suddently, thought a bit of what I did recently and the only thing I did was tighting up a bit the nuts on the back of the wheel for the qr, turned out it was a bad idea, unscrewed those a bit so that they are just tight but didnt really put any force and the noise disapeared. Super happy it didnt needed tape or anything. Did two 1 hour race yesterday with the wheel working as intended, checked the qr connection point after and nothing moved.
 
RX-7_FD3S
Ok so I had the crackling noise on my gt3 wheel suddently, thought a bit of what I did recently and the only thing I did was tighting up a bit the nuts on the back of the wheel for the qr, turned out it was a bad idea, unscrewed those a bit so that they are just tight but didnt really put any force and the noise disapeared. Super happy it didnt needed tape or anything. Did two 1 hour race yesterday with the wheel working as intended, checked the qr connection point after and nothing moved.
Click to expand...
The torque spec for the QR bolts is 1Nm.
 
Was doing the tape trick… and it was working well till yesterday. FFB and s starting to go light again. I guess I should recheck the torque on my bolts, but I have a feeling I need to get the upgraded QR

What’s the deal with these things? Worth it? Did they solve the issue? Guess you have to use the bolt with them to get them to function properly? Someone give me the lowdown.
 
All I know is it may be worth waiting for the QR2 to be released first brudda.

Apparently manufacturing tolerances of the QR1 and the drive shaft meant that the combination of a narrower shaft and wider QR1 was possible (luck of the draw I reckon) and could result in "play".

The QR2 will apparently solve this. Shouldn't be too long now 'cause they've been hinting at it for a year (at least) that I know of.
 
Last edited:
Yard_Sale
Was doing the tape trick… and it was working well till yesterday. FFB and s starting to go light again. I guess I should recheck the torque on my bolts, but I have a feeling I need to get the upgraded QR

What’s the deal with these things? Worth it? Did they solve the issue? Guess you have to use the bolt with them to get them to function properly? Someone give me the lowdown.
Click to expand...
I got the QR1 and it’s useless. Literally unusable, I have to use the plastic one. Currently setting up an RMA where they’ve told me that they will issue a refund once they confirmed the item is defective. Pretty obvious how that’s going to go.
 
The thing that gets me is that my wheel goes completely light after a high load situation and I hear the creak. I need to test it in other games though before I lose my chit. I’ll try it in GTS and ACC AON Monday
 
the creek did happen on mine as well in ACC.It‘s the qr lite that came with the McLaren and yesterday i exchanged it with the GT wheel and removed all tape.It works (for now),the one from the GT is more tight.I‘ll try to get a replacement from fana but for now i‘m good,i don‘t use the GT Wheel anyway.
 
Last edited:
I just recently dived into ACC and would like to use it for Single Player Stuff.
I‘m on PS5 so what Settings for your FFB are you using both in Game and for your Wheelbase?
The Fanatec recommended ones feel pretty damn good.
The only thing I’m unsure about are the Road Effects.
Would you advise using them a bit let’s say between 0-50 or is it a no go.
Hope to get some clarification, thanks in advance :)
 
As far as i know zero road effects ingame because its already in the normal FFB setting and i can confirm,the road fx ARE strong,even with only 5nm Adapter 😁
 
Just coming back to add, that after a couple of months on the DD Pro:

Definitely happy with the upgrade to the G29, which I actually really liked. The precision the wheel gives you has been translating into more speed for me. You go from trying to hit your marks, to looking for places to ADD SPEED. It's kind of like when you go from trying to make par to looking for scoring opportunities...

Hit the apex? Ok, good, apply a little more throttle now to build more speed on exit. Catch the slide? Ok, straighten the wheel and squeeze the throttle to build more speed. Etc.

While I wasn't sure I was getting more pace using it, racing on GTS at DTG this week gave me the chance to really see... I'm within 1% of the top times and putting in qualifying speed laps on every lap of the race. This wasn't my MO in the past, I had to scrap for positions. Now, part is just me 'locked in' here and in the car, but I was typically 2.0 - 2.5% behind Gr3 leaderboard times in the past. Never have I been that consistently fast in a Gr3 Daily Race.

And in races... so much more control to work in close traffic, to allow setting up for passes, and also so much more control to defend when you see someone is going to hit you or disrupt your line. Racecraft opportunities really open up when you have the confidence a nice wheel and pedal set gives you.

The wheel gets a lot of attention, and the load cell brake is nice, but you can't overlook how much better the throttle pedal is... one of my strengths is throttle control, and this thing really lets me fine-tune things real-time... it's so nice.

Definitely say it's 'worth the money' if you accept that it's not cheap. And I can imagine the even higher-level wheels might be as well... given how this one compares to the G29.

1653243680129.jpeg

(and: finally got my main account up to A+ status, even if it's less impressive with GTS participation waning, happy with that)

KosmoKazi
Just a sort of 'first impressions' review, as a G29 user who upgraded to the DD Pro. It is certainly night and day compared to the G29... and I have to say I was never unhappy with the Logitech wheel- you simply can't beat it in bang-for-the-buck. And with the AXC Sim TrueBrake, the braking control was a little better than the stock one, for not a lot more money.

That said, I was convinced that I would not only get more fun out of a better wheel and pedal set, but that I could eventually race better and maybe be a little quicker in spots, with more feedback and control. When I got a taste of how much better the physics model was in GT7, I knew I had to upgrade.

I bought the DD Pro GT7 bundle wheel/pedals and added the Load Cell pedal. I skipped the 8 N-m power pack for now. I left the original brake pedal on as a clutch, though I've never used one in the game, so it's superfluous. I wish they just offered a package with the LC to avoid the wasted cost, etc.

Pluses:
  • Good build quality and it's nice to have a great, smooth, quiet, solid wheel and pedals both. Sturdy brake plate and good quality stiff pedals, and the compact wheel base seems really well made.
  • The elimination of the notchiness of the (gear-driven?) G29, it's almost too smooth!
  • More feedback info is available for sure... I've not driven back to back, once I tore the G29 down it was down, but there must be lots more info provided through the DD Pro
  • It did ship a little before their promise date, that was nice (but...)
  • The load cell offers really nice brake control, and is much more realistic in 'feel' esp when combined with the improved GT7 model. Modulation is more natural, even than the TrueBrake (to be fair, AXC Sim was very open about that reality compared to the load cell).

Minuses (not strictly compared to the G29 but overall):
  • Rubber grip is not as nice as the leather one on the G29, which I was always really happy with. Sweaty hands are again a problem and I don't want to wear gloves.
  • High frequency feedback seems muted in the DD, maybe this could be overcome with the 8 N-m power pack? I could play with damping settings, perhaps, but haven't had a chance to really explore those. I do think it makes sense that the single motor and lower powered DD unit would fall a little short here.
  • Power cord was a little short, had to use the Logitech one to reach my outlet
  • Didn't come with screws for hard mounting... come on, $1000 in and I still need to buy $3 worth of screws? My $400 OW seat came with hardware to mount three different wheels, as an example. (though not quite exactly what I needed for this, as it turns out)
  • Wish the D-pad on the wheel was really a D-pad and not a little joystick, harder to use and also seems less robust.
  • Thought the special (TCS/BB/FuelMap) controls were dials, but they are also little joysticks... they seem kind of cheap in feel and when clicked it's not a really high quality tactile response.
  • Maybe I'm just used to where the buttons on the Logitech wheel were, but the placement of some of them on the Fanatec seems less than ideal, and not as easily accessed in the heat of the battle.
  • As a side note: Fanatec didn't send me the FedEx tracking info when it shipped, they shipped it ground (again... kind of cheap on a pre-order...) and required a signature... so it was a bit of a hassle to get it received. Not the best, given the premium nature of the company overall.
Overall though probably a really good option if a G29 isn't 'good enough' for you. I don't regret it and am looking forward to racing with it more, to get more familiar with it. Anyone on the fence should feel ok with the idea of upgrading it, if you are somewhat serious about the game and want the most immersive experience.

Now, as to whether I can put that all to use and be faster and race better... TBD. But I'm looking forward to it.

View attachment 1135038
Click to expand...
 
Last edited:
Yard_Sale
Really? The consensus seems to be the exact opposite?
Click to expand...

Yes, really.

That dead spring effect beyond slip limit is gone. Now I feel everything that's happening. Even before that point the FFB is much more dynamic and detailed.

I'm assuming there's some sort of bug going around for people who aren't happy. I can't imagine anyone not being happy when feeling what I'm feeling now. To me, it's perfect now - nothing happens that I can't feel very clearly.

However, I've had to increase FF to 100 and in-game max torque to 10.
 
After GT7 Update 1.15 GT DD with 90W power supply in purple mode feels a bit stronger and with better feel for oversteer then GT DD with the boost kit in blue mode.
Sorry, but the feeling of oversteer in blue mode is complete garbage, the steering wheel is too slow.
 
Last edited:

Similar threads

Famine
Fanatec Gran Turismo DD Pro Wheel Bases & Bundles Are Back in Stock (For Now)
Replies
23
Views
6K
timekiller001
T
Famine
Fanatec Gran Turismo DD Pro 5Nm Back in Stock in Europe, Other Regions to Follow
Replies
2
Views
2K
Famine
Famine
yassermshok
Fanatec GT DD Pro pricing
Replies
6
Views
3K
IfAndOr
IfAndOr
Famine
Fanatec Reveals Direct Drive ClubSport DD and DD+ Wheel Bases: Available to Pre-Order Now
16 17 18
Replies
515
Views
77K
super_gt
super_gt
Famine
Fanatec Launches $100 Shaft Extension for ClubSport Direct Drive Wheel Bases
Replies
21
Views
3K
rsspyder21
rsspyder21

Latest Posts

Back