Fanatec Gran Turismo DD Pro

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Sunnyb255
Perhaps I've missed this information regarding the DD Pro but what are the settings Fanatec used in their "A" and "C" auto settings?
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In A Setup the game developer can enter his vision for the settings, if not these settings are used in A and C Setup:

SEN AUTO
FFB 100
FFS PEAK
NDP 50
NFR OFF
NIN OFF
INT 11
FEI 100
FOR 100
SPR 100
DPR 100
 
super_gt
In A Setup the game developer can enter his vision for the settings, if not these settings are used in A and C Setup:

SEN AUTO
FFB 100
FFS PEAK
NDP 50
NFR OFF
NIN OFF
INT 11
FEI 100
FOR 100
SPR 100
DPR 100
Click to expand...
I'd always start with those settings, in all games, and then lower INT and NDP until they're lowered too much. What "too much" is, is individual. NDP 50 and INT 11 is very safe and conservative.

If you look at the recommended settings from Fanatec officially, for different games, you'll see a pattern...
 
Does anyone get bad wheel vibration at low speed in Logitech G923? I thought it was just this car but it does it on a few other cars and tried a controller and it vibrates bad aswell. Does anyone know of a fix ?
 
Beoplay
Does anyone get bad wheel vibration at low speed in Logitech G923? I thought it was just this car but it does it on a few other cars and tried a controller and it vibrates bad aswell. Does anyone know of a fix ?
Click to expand...
1. You are in the wrong thread as this is a thread about the FANATEC GT DD PRO and not Logitech.
2. Thats a Physics issue of the game at low speed.
 
fmq75
Same for me.The QRL on the GT wheel was fine but on the McLaren not.So i put the one from the GT on the McLaren but it started“slipping“ soon after that as well.The tape trick do work very well for me though (but i only have 5nm).Well,the slaughtered GT7 FFB comes at least with a positive side effect.Less force means less slip as well 🤡
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HugoTwoWheels
I just put a small strip of electrical tape in the groove of the shaft. Took me 1 minute and didn't cost anything. Problem solved.
Should some play develop in the future, I'll put another strap.

I often have to do some kind of modification when I buy stuff. This is no exception. But, here the modification is just a bit of tape...

Not sure what would need to be done for this fix to be unnecessary. Maybe a much more expensive quick-release? I'd take the cheap QR Lite and some tape in that case.
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PirovacBoy
Same here, today I received my new QR Lite.
It’s so snug I even had to remove the Tape from the Shaft I was using with the old one
So it’s wait and see how long it‘ll take until it’s Shot too.
The old one lasted 3Weeks until it started to develop slipping.
The Tape Fix worked perfect though, so actually the new one wasn’t necessary but anyway new is new 😅
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The new QR held for exactly two days - slip is back and worse than before. I hate this.
Will try tape now. So ridiculous for this price

I just saw these marks on the shaft of the DD Pro - the slip is massive
IMG_20220602_202617.jpg
 
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timekiller001
The new QR held for exactly one day - slip is back and worse than before. I hate this.
Will try tape now. So ridiculous for this price

I just saw these marks on the shaft of the DD Pro - the slip is massive
View attachment 1156724
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That’s insane.
What FFB Settings are you running?!
I mean, the Shaft on my Wheelbase looks exactly the same, but on both Sides.
It’s an imprint from the inside of the quick Release.
I also went back today to my old quick Release.
Not because of slipping but because of lack of fine Details in the FFB.
I have a very fine Sense for the small Details and for some Reason those Details were completely missing with the new QRLite.
On the other Hand it felt more connected and somehow more precise but nothing like the old one did in terms of fine subtle Details.
Very strange.
I can’t comprehend how that is even possible but as soon as I reattached the old one and wrapped Aid Tape around the Shaft all of the fine Granular Details are back.
I can now probably understand why some people complain about not feeling the fine Details.
But the FFB Strength is more than sufficient with the new Settings @Jordan has posted in his Article.
It would be quite interesting to measure the current NM output with the updated FFB.
I‘m sure it should be somewhere between 3-4NM on average with peak Forces around 5NM.
Still a lot less than the Peak 8nm we had before but nevertheless still more than enough to provide an overall excellent Driving Experience under the current FFB Implementation.
 
PirovacBoy
That’s insane.
What FFB Settings are you running?!
I mean, the Shaft on my Wheelbase looks exactly the same, but on both Sides.
It’s an imprint from the inside of the quick Release.
I also went back today to my old quick Release.
Not because of slipping but because of lack of fine Details in the FFB.
I have a very fine Sense for the small Details and for some Reason those Details were completely missing with the new QRLite.
On the other Hand it felt more connected and somehow more precise but nothing like the old one did in terms of fine subtle Details.
Very strange.
I can’t comprehend how that is even possible but as soon as I reattached the old one and wrapped Aid Tape around the Shaft all of the fine Granular Details are back.
I can now probably understand why some people complain about not feeling the fine Details.
But the FFB Strength is more than sufficient with the new Settings @Jordan has posted in his Article.
It would be quite interesting to measure the current NM output with the updated FFB.
I‘m sure it should be somewhere between 3-4NM on average with peak Forces around 5NM.
Still a lot less than the Peak 8nm we had before but nevertheless still more than enough to provide an overall excellent Driving Experience under the current FFB Implementation.
Click to expand...
I am running and have always run the recommended settings from the Fanatec forum.
Also the updated ones after 1.15, although I turned down the NDP (dampening) to 20 now.

I also tried the ones mentioned in the article, but I'm not really a fan of those.

And by the way, that was just one side of the shaft, the lines are on top left, top right, bottom left and bottom right, so probably the same as you have. And the ones on top right and bottom left are the most visible, the other two aren't as strong.
 
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timekiller001
I am running and have always run the recommended settings from the Fanatec forum.
Also the updated ones after 1.15, although I turned down the NDP (dampening) to 20 now.

I also tried the ones mentioned in the article, but I'm not really a fan of those.

And by the way, that was just one side of the shaft, the lines are on top left, top right, bottom left and bottom right, so probably the same as you have. And the ones on top right and bottom left are the most visible, the other two aren't as strong.
Click to expand...
Just do the Tape fix and you’ll most probably never ever again experience the Wheel slipping on the Shaft.
The Day I did so was a complete Game Changer and it didn’t happen once since then.
Thanks again to @fmq75 and @NikNakTobasco who introduced me to that Fix and by the way saved me a lot of Money.
Try to use some grippy Tape though or something with a sticky Surface.
I use Aid Band Tape and it sticks like Glue 😅
 
Regarding the "tape fix"...

You're trying to eliminate the occasional "popping sound" that comes from where the rim connect to the shaft? Or the rim itself is actually slipping on the shaft? You're just putting a strip of tape along the top ridge that runs along the top of the shaft?

I do hear the popping occasionally, especially when testing higher levels of force feedback strength, but I'm not aware the rim is actually slipping at all.
 
I heard a lot of creaks and cracks from the GT wheel itself, nothing from around the shaft/QR Lite. I've now upgraded to the McLaren GT3 V2 (also QR Lite) and it's silent. Just think the lower quality of the GT wheel was the issue, for me at least.
 
NikNakTobasco
My mclaren wheel rattles like crazy with all the loose buttons.
Click to expand...
True, but I meant there's no creaking/cracking noises anymore, sounded like the GT wheel was going to break apart sometimes.
I have the volume up loud so forgot about the rattles on the McL but tbh mines not too bad. Might try removing the dials and put a layer of felt underneath to see it that helps.
 
Jordan
Regarding the "tape fix"...

You're trying to eliminate the occasional "popping sound" that comes from where the rim connect to the shaft? Or the rim itself is actually slipping on the shaft? You're just putting a strip of tape along the top ridge that runs along the top of the shaft?

I do hear the popping occasionally, especially when testing higher levels of force feedback strength, but I'm not aware the rim is actually slipping at all.
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Hey Jordan, the occasional Popping you mentioned is actually the Inner Part of the QR Lite slipping on the Shaft.
It happens when higher Forces start to occur around the Shaft and the QR.
It seems like it’s not gripping properly and therefore ever do slightly starting to slip, which then causes a Rattling Effect.
Just simply put some Tape around the Shaft 1 Time around should be enough to fix the Issue.
Mine is working like a Charme since I did it.
 
Abarth_71
I heard a lot of creaks and cracks from the GT wheel itself, nothing from around the shaft/QR Lite. I've now upgraded to the McLaren GT3 V2 (also QR Lite) and it's silent. Just think the lower quality of the GT wheel was the issue, for me at least.
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I have also both wheels and what you descibe has nothing to do with it.I love the McLaren but it initally rattles like a box of tic tacs ;)
I did two mods on this thing to to silence the shifter and buttons.It‘s awesome now.
 
FMW
Have you guys tried using the better Quick Release? I know it's spendy, but it's on my BMW GT2 V2 wheel rim and haven't had any slip issues or weird crackling sounds. https://fanatec.com/us-en/accessori...VYC4JPVE*MTY1NDIwOTkzMC4xLjEuMTY1NDIwOTk1Ny4w
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Many people have problems with that one too, with many frustrated the lateral/rocking movement in the quick release, which is a problem the QR Lite does not share.

My advice for anyone with either quick release is to do the mods (like tape etc) to keep things nice and snug and then wait for Fanatec to release their brand new quick release.
 
FMW
Have you guys tried using the better Quick Release? I know it's spendy, but it's on my BMW GT2 V2 wheel rim and haven't had any slip issues or weird crackling sounds. https://fanatec.com/us-en/accessori...VYC4JPVE*MTY1NDIwOTkzMC4xLjEuMTY1NDIwOTk1Ny4w
Click to expand...
From what people reported this one isn't without flaws either.
Some people don't have any issues, some people say the issues are worse than compared to the plastic QR. And as I said before, I've now reached a point where I don't give Fanatec any more money.
 
Surely we have a legal case against PD,
We spend a lot of money after reading reviews about how good DD wheels are & then PD basically NERF the whole feedback system,
It would have been better to NERF the 1 or 2 cars that they felt people were having issues with.
 
NikNakTobasco
Any benefit to updating for a DDpro solely used on gt7?
It’s a bit of a faff to wheel out my old windows machine just for this.
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Not particularly but I've updated anyway. They've made a few changes inc the loadcell if you have one.

CSL DD / GT DD PRO
  • Fixed rare and brief jump of steering wheel position. Most noticeable in iRacing by a rapid steering angle change only visible for ~1 frame. Could be felt as a jolt like sensation.
All Bases
  • Fixed BRF getting reset after base restart.
  • Fixed Advanced Clutch Bite Point getting set to 0 in Setup 5.
  • Fixed Auto Setup (A_S) getting shown as active in the wheel display when switching to it. Now only gets shown as active if currently used by a game.
  • Fixed Auto Setup (A_S) not getting shown as inactive in some cases after the game closed.
  • Fixed some cosmetic issues in the Tuning Menu.
  • Fixed BLI Tuning Menu setting also shown if no accessory is attached which supports it.
  • Fixed that only one MPS input could get send at a time when two MPS get turned at the same time.
  • Fixed Clutch Bite Point value getting shown while Tuning Menu is open.
  • Tuning Menu now gets closed when wheel gets detached.
  • Changed Tuning Menu setting "FF" to "FFB" on 1” OLEDs and 7-seg displays.
  • Changing Tuning Menu mode via the driver now also shows an info on the wheel display.
  • Improved mode change text.
  • Removed preceding 0 on TM values.
Load Cell Pedals
  • Note: Pedals can only get updated via USB
  • Caution: Never plug in RJ12 and USB at the same time. Unplug RJ12 before using USB to update and unplug USB again before using RJ12 again to connect pedals to base.
  • Fixed brake input flickering of CSP V3.
  • Improved lower end dead zones to prevent ghost input.
  • Improved upper dead-zones in auto calibration to prevent saving a too high value if pressed hard against the end stop.
  • Improved standard values in automatic calibration so the first slight input is not directly at 100%.
  • Improved automatic calibration so short peaks at max against the end stops don't set a calibration which can't be reached anymore afterwards. Max input now needs to stay for ~2sec to get auto calibrated again.
 
So...last night I finally tried @Jordan DD Pro settings for patch update 1.15. Oh my! As I mentioned before, I really like @PirovacBoy settings. I've been using his for the past week. For comparison sake, I tried both settings at the current Suzuka Time Trial challenge. I'm so torn. Both recommended settings are really good. =) I was able to set my fastest time with Jordans settings though. While I feel really comfortable with both, Jordan's settings allow me to take the final chicane faster. The wheel lightens up really nice in the middle of the chicane. The feeling through there is sublime is the best way I can describe it. Anyway, thanks to both you guys! I feel like I can use either one depending on the track and car =)

It will be interesting to see if these settings will need to be tweaked, given the new firmware that was just released. :D
 
Would be interesting to hear some thoughts from People who have upgraded to the latest Firmware.
Especially if there is some change for the CSL DD in combination with GT7.
I can’t imagine any improvement as the Signal is being sent by the Game itself but who knows…
 
PirovacBoy
Would be interesting to hear some thoughts from People who have upgraded to the latest Firmware.
Especially if there is some change for the CSL DD in combination with GT7.
I can’t imagine any improvement as the Signal is being sent by the Game itself but who knows…
Click to expand...
The CSL DD is not compatible with GT7...
There is no difference in overall FFB feel on a CSL DD. Only cosmetic improvements and Joltfix.
 

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