Fanatec Gran Turismo DD Pro

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The CSL DD is not compatible with GT7...
There is no difference in overall FFB feel on a CSL DD. Only cosmetic improvements and Joltfix.
Oh, you’re right of course I meant the GT DD Pro.
Aren’t they the same ?!
Thanks for clarification I would have been surprised if there would have been any significant changes.
 
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Hello guys !

I've just received my DD Pro and I've just discovered that it was the worst time to install it because of this 1.15 update :banghead:. In the comments I've seen some people saying it was good and even better than before the update (like Maurice on Fanatec recommended settings post) so I decided to install it instead of my CSL Elite PS4 :D.

As the Direct Drive settings are entirely new to me I wanted to check the recommended settings on the @Jordan 's article here : https://www.gtplanet.net/gran-turis...ed-the-fanatec-gt-dd-pro-heres-how-to-fix-it/ but it's a blank page ? Do you have the same problem ?
 
Hello guys !

I've just received my DD Pro and I've just discovered that it was the worst time to install it because of this 1.15 update :banghead:. In the comments I've seen some people saying it was good and even better than before the update (like Maurice on Fanatec recommended settings post) so I decided to install it instead of my CSL Elite PS4 :D.

As the Direct Drive settings are entirely new to me I wanted to check the recommended settings on the @Jordan 's article here : https://www.gtplanet.net/gran-turis...ed-the-fanatec-gt-dd-pro-heres-how-to-fix-it/ but it's a blank page ? Do you have the same problem ?
Works ok for me but I've copied it below for you.

GT DD Pro Advanced Settings​

  • SEN: AUTO
  • FFB: 100
  • FFS: PEAK
  • NDP: 10
  • NFR: 10
  • NIN: 10
  • INT: 3
  • FEI: 100
  • FOR: 120
  • SPR: 0
  • DPR: 0

GT7 In-Game Settings​

  • Force Feedback Max Torque: 10
  • Force Feedback Sensitivity: 1
 
Would be interesting to hear some thoughts from People who have upgraded to the latest Firmware.
Especially if there is some change for the CSL DD in combination with GT7.
I can’t imagine any improvement as the Signal is being sent by the Game itself but who knows…
I just successfully updated the GT DD Pro base to the latest firmware along with the V3 pedals earlier this morning. Wish FANATEC would release an Apple Mac OS version...Anyway, I will be testing your settings and @Jordan in a little bit. Cross fingers! :D
 
Hello guys !

I've just received my DD Pro and I've just discovered that it was the worst time to install it because of this 1.15 update :banghead:. In the comments I've seen some people saying it was good and even better than before the update (like Maurice on Fanatec recommended settings post) so I decided to install it instead of my CSL Elite PS4 :D.

As the Direct Drive settings are entirely new to me I wanted to check the recommended settings on the @Jordan 's article here : https://www.gtplanet.net/gran-turis...ed-the-fanatec-gt-dd-pro-heres-how-to-fix-it/ but it's a blank page ? Do you have the same problem ?
Try @Jordan and @PirovacBoy settings with your GT DD Pro. Both are really good settings. I've currently mapped both their settings so I can use either or, depending on the car and track. Maurice's settings are good too, but for my taste at the moment Jordan's and PirovacBoy's are better for me.

1654376231154.png
 
Thank you @Abarth_71 & @FMW !

For me the strength has never been an issue because I was used to a FFB Max torque between 3-5 with my CSL Elite in GT Sport (never understood guys that needed to use the maximum resistance in each corner...).
FMW
Try @Jordan and @PirovacBoy settings with your GT DD Pro. Both are really good settings. I've currently mapped both their settings so I can use either or, depending on the car and track. Maurice's settings are good too, but for my taste at the moment Jordan's and PirovacBoy's are better for me.

View attachment 1157404
I'm playing with those settings right now and it's good but it seems really "strange" specially after my CSL Elite. I have the feeling that a lot is missing about the road texture, kerb, offroad... but I'm not a regular player so it's difficult to remember :confused:. I should reinstall my CSL Elite back to be sure of that but now that everything is installed...

What "FFB Sensitivity" is supposed to do ? My understanding was : Smooth the game signals with 10 = original / sharp and 1 = smoother / less noise (an FEI like but in the game), but it seems to do nothing with Fanatec wheels (it was like that in GT Sport, at least in blue mode). Am I dreaming ?
 
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Thank you @Abarth_71 & @FMW !

For me the strength has never been an issue because I was used to a FFB Max torque between 3-5 with my CSL Elite in GT Sport (never understood guys that needed to use the maximum resistance in each corner...).

I'm playing with those settings right now and it's good but it seems really "strange" specially after my CSL Elite. I have the feeling that a lot is missing about the road texture, kerb, offroad... but I'm not a regular player so it's difficult to remember :confused:. I should reinstall my CSL Elite back to be sure of that but now that everything is installed...

What "FFB Sensitivity" is supposed to do ? My understanding was : Smooth the game signals with 10 = original / sharp and 1 = smoother / less noise (an FEI like but in the game), but it seems to do nothing with Fanatec wheels (it was like that in GT Sport, at least in blue mode). Am I dreaming ?

Force Feedback Sensitivity in GT7​

The Force Feedback Sensitivity setting dictates the exact point at which your steering wheel provides force feedback to you. In simple words, this means that you get to determine at what point you receive information about contact with the track surface to your hands.

Just like Force Feedback Max Torque, the greater the number you set here, the more responsive your steering will become. Likewise, a lower number will result in lesser sensitivity.

We're all mostly running 1 on this setting. I've found that turning it up past 1 (with update 1.15) results in less fidelity with the curbs and road. To me turning up sensitivity with update 1.15 dulls the driving feel at the moment...
 
@Jordan and @PirovavBoy I tried both your settings with the latest Fanatec PC Driver 442 with the GT Pro Base being updated to 1.1.7.5
With that said, both your settings are holding up. The update to the base didn't break anything, but if things feel different, I can't tell at the moment. Ran a League race tonight at MT. Panorama using a BMW Z4 GT2 car. Ended up using PirovacBoy's settings for that and everything felt great. For the Nations cup, using GT2 cars, I ended up using Jordans settings and that seemed best for that car and race. So, it looks like I can keep alternating between both settings even with the new Fanatec update! Glad it didn't break anything.:D
 
I support this 100%. Went from G29 to DD pro and all the time 1 for sensitivity has more detail than anything else. It gets "spongy" if you go above 1. A lot of people do this much to my surprise but I guess that is what it's all about, tweak to suit your tastes
OR, maybe the description of the setting is vague and people (me) are not smart enough to know and think that ffb at 10 means “more” so sensitivity at 10 also means “more”… Now, I am “smart enough” to know that at this time in history words don’t really have actual meaning, they are just place holders.
 
FMW
We're all mostly running 1 on this setting. I've found that turning it up past 1 (with update 1.15) results in less fidelity with the curbs and road. To me turning up sensitivity with update 1.15 dulls the driving feel at the moment...
Are you sure ? I've tried switching between 1 and 10 and there is no difference at all. Do you have a use case where I could feel the difference ?

... which is strange and counter-intuitive, but I've heard this mentioned by YouTube streamers.
Yes, this option should be at maximum to get the most "raw" signal from the game and after that we have INT or FEI to smooth it directly from our fanatec wheels. I'm pretty sure this is a bug on Fanatec wheels as it was already the case with my CSL Elite on GT Sport (no difference at all between min and max FFB Sensitivity in blue mode but it was obvious in purple mode).
 
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Are you sure ? I've tried switching between 1 and 10 and there is no difference at all. Do you have a use case where I could feel the difference ?

Oh yes, there's difference. With 10 the wheel goes from light to heavy much quicker and easier, which is neither good nor bad.
Use what feels best and what you're fastest with. Just have in mind that your preference might change with changing the max torque setting.

If you can't feel the difference, my guess is that you're way off the optimal range, having a wheel that's either too light all the time or too heavy all the time.
 
Are you sure ? I've tried switching between 1 and 10 and there is no difference at all. Do you have a use case where I could feel the difference ?


Yes, this option should be at maximum to get the most "raw" signal from the game and after that we have INT or FEI to smooth it directly from our fanatec wheels. I'm pretty sure this is a bug on Fanatec wheels as it was already the case with my CSL Elite on GT Sport (no difference at all between min and max FFB Sensitivity in blue mode but it was obvious in purple mode).

Pick a car you like to drive and a specific track you like to drive at. I will run that car and track, so I can better convey the difference in what I feel. Also, what @HugoTwoWheels is saying is on point from my experience.
 
@Abarth_71 and @Yard_Sale
Please try the following Settings and report back.
I just tweaked them today and to me they just feel incredibly Strong and detailed.
These are the ones my Statements are based on.

8NM Boost Kit

SEN: AUTO

FFB: 100

FFS: PEAK

NDP: 10

NFR: 10

NIN: 10

INT: 3

FEI: 100

FOR: 120

SPR: 0

DPR: 0


GT7 in Game Settings:

Force Feedback Max Torque: 10

Force Feedback Sensitivity: 1

If you don’t experience extreme Forces and highly detailed FFB than something is definitely very wrong.
Thank you so much for posting that. I just got a DD Pro and couldn't believe how bad it was, virtually undriveable. Your settings make it much better.
 
Hello fellow GT DD users....

I could do with a bit of help to work out if my GT DD has an issue or not if possible please....

When I go over a high kerb, or hit a sausage kerb, it feels like the wheel jumps a cog and I get a horrible loud noise which sounds like a metal to metal clonk. It obviousely isn't jumping a cog because there are no cogs, but thats what it feels like. It's like all feedback is lost for a split second.

Does everyone get the same thing? I'm hoping, lots of people say "Yes, thats normal"

Personally I hate it, and it doesn't sound like it's doing the wheel any good.

I have the QR1 and 8nm boost kit with V3 pedals and I'm using a set up from @PirovacBoy (thanks dude!). Firmware on everything is up to date.

I have loosened the clamp, checked the shaft is pushed in as far as possible and re-tightened to 10nm. There is a very slight bit of play, but it is only very slight.

My old T-GT never did anything like it, and playing GT7 it felt really good.... perhaps I should have saved the money and stuck with Thrustmaster.
 
Hello fellow GT DD users....

I could do with a bit of help to work out if my GT DD has an issue or not if possible please....

When I go over a high kerb, or hit a sausage kerb, it feels like the wheel jumps a cog and I get a horrible loud noise which sounds like a metal to metal clonk. It obviousely isn't jumping a cog because there are no cogs, but thats what it feels like. It's like all feedback is lost for a split second.

Does everyone get the same thing? I'm hoping, lots of people say "Yes, thats normal"

Personally I hate it, and it doesn't sound like it's doing the wheel any good.

I have the QR1 and 8nm boost kit with V3 pedals and I'm using a set up from @PirovacBoy (thanks dude!). Firmware on everything is up to date.

I have loosened the clamp, checked the shaft is pushed in as far as possible and re-tightened to 10nm. There is a very slight bit of play, but it is only very slight.

My old T-GT never did anything like it, and playing GT7 it felt really good.... perhaps I should have saved the money and stuck with Thrustmaster.
According to Fanatec this is completely normal. Try the tape fix as outlined previously. It may help.
 
I have loosened the clamp, checked the shaft is pushed in as far as possible and re-tightened to 10nm. There is a very slight bit of play, but it is only very slight.
I've read 15 Nm, and tightened accordingly. 10 Nm should be enough though. I've got zero play there. The only slight play I got in high FFB situations with the QR Lite was fixed with electrical tape.

Cyclist's got torque wrenches at home. For the rest of you... It's expensive, and shouldn't be needed. :/
 
Hello fellow GT DD users....

I could do with a bit of help to work out if my GT DD has an issue or not if possible please....

When I go over a high kerb, or hit a sausage kerb, it feels like the wheel jumps a cog and I get a horrible loud noise which sounds like a metal to metal clonk. It obviousely isn't jumping a cog because there are no cogs, but thats what it feels like. It's like all feedback is lost for a split second.

Does everyone get the same thing? I'm hoping, lots of people say "Yes, thats normal"

Personally I hate it, and it doesn't sound like it's doing the wheel any good.

I have the QR1 and 8nm boost kit with V3 pedals and I'm using a set up from @PirovacBoy (thanks dude!). Firmware on everything is up to date.

I have loosened the clamp, checked the shaft is pushed in as far as possible and re-tightened to 10nm. There is a very slight bit of play, but it is only very slight.

My old T-GT never did anything like it, and playing GT7 it felt really good.... perhaps I should have saved the money and stuck with Thrustmaster.
If you hear noise like in this video, then it is QR1, watch the video to the end to find out how to reduce the noise.
The other option is to use the bolt provided with QR1.



I used 6mm wide sheet metal, the thickness is 0.2 mm.

DSC01164.JPG

DSC01163.JPG
 
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If you hear noise like in this video, then it is QR1, watch the video to the end to find out how to reduce the noise.
The other option is to use the bolt provided with QR1.



I used 6mm wide sheet metal, the thickness is 0.2 mm.

Jeez it's like a bloody jackhammer 😮
 
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It’s almost certainly the qr1. You can RMA it but dealing with Fanatec CS may make you want to jump off a cliff.
Yes, I already went thru that (...and yes, I jumped off the cliff:banghead:). They offered my a 30% discount for the QR1 metal (not QR1 lite - plastic version). So, I indulged and got the metal QR and I'm also using the set screw - but still no change in the "click-clonk."
 
If you hear noise like in this video, then it is QR1, watch the video to the end to find out how to reduce the noise.
The other option is to use the bolt provided with QR1.



I used 6mm wide sheet metal, the thickness is 0.2 mm.

what gauge is that? aluminum or steel?
 
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