Oh, you’re right of course I meant the GT DD Pro.The CSL DD is not compatible with GT7...
There is no difference in overall FFB feel on a CSL DD. Only cosmetic improvements and Joltfix.
Works ok for me but I've copied it below for you.Hello guys !
I've just received my DD Pro and I've just discovered that it was the worst time to install it because of this 1.15 update . In the comments I've seen some people saying it was good and even better than before the update (like Maurice on Fanatec recommended settings post) so I decided to install it instead of my CSL Elite PS4 .
As the Direct Drive settings are entirely new to me I wanted to check the recommended settings on the @Jordan 's article here : https://www.gtplanet.net/gran-turis...ed-the-fanatec-gt-dd-pro-heres-how-to-fix-it/ but it's a blank page ? Do you have the same problem ?
I just successfully updated the GT DD Pro base to the latest firmware along with the V3 pedals earlier this morning. Wish FANATEC would release an Apple Mac OS version...Anyway, I will be testing your settings and @Jordan in a little bit. Cross fingers!Would be interesting to hear some thoughts from People who have upgraded to the latest Firmware.
Especially if there is some change for the CSL DD in combination with GT7.
I can’t imagine any improvement as the Signal is being sent by the Game itself but who knows…
Try @Jordan and @PirovacBoy settings with your GT DD Pro. Both are really good settings. I've currently mapped both their settings so I can use either or, depending on the car and track. Maurice's settings are good too, but for my taste at the moment Jordan's and PirovacBoy's are better for me.Hello guys !
I've just received my DD Pro and I've just discovered that it was the worst time to install it because of this 1.15 update . In the comments I've seen some people saying it was good and even better than before the update (like Maurice on Fanatec recommended settings post) so I decided to install it instead of my CSL Elite PS4 .
As the Direct Drive settings are entirely new to me I wanted to check the recommended settings on the @Jordan 's article here : https://www.gtplanet.net/gran-turis...ed-the-fanatec-gt-dd-pro-heres-how-to-fix-it/ but it's a blank page ? Do you have the same problem ?
Well,a look at his profile pic revealed it early for me 😀If anyone is wondering SimRacer925 is Mr.Maurice Böschen.
I'm playing with those settings right now and it's good but it seems really "strange" specially after my CSL Elite. I have the feeling that a lot is missing about the road texture, kerb, offroad... but I'm not a regular player so it's difficult to remember . I should reinstall my CSL Elite back to be sure of that but now that everything is installed...Try @Jordan and @PirovacBoy settings with your GT DD Pro. Both are really good settings. I've currently mapped both their settings so I can use either or, depending on the car and track. Maurice's settings are good too, but for my taste at the moment Jordan's and PirovacBoy's are better for me.
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Thank you @Abarth_71 & @FMW !
For me the strength has never been an issue because I was used to a FFB Max torque between 3-5 with my CSL Elite in GT Sport (never understood guys that needed to use the maximum resistance in each corner...).
I'm playing with those settings right now and it's good but it seems really "strange" specially after my CSL Elite. I have the feeling that a lot is missing about the road texture, kerb, offroad... but I'm not a regular player so it's difficult to remember . I should reinstall my CSL Elite back to be sure of that but now that everything is installed...
What "FFB Sensitivity" is supposed to do ? My understanding was : Smooth the game signals with 10 = original / sharp and 1 = smoother / less noise (an FEI like but in the game), but it seems to do nothing with Fanatec wheels (it was like that in GT Sport, at least in blue mode). Am I dreaming ?
OR, maybe the description of the setting is vague and people (me) are not smart enough to know and think that ffb at 10 means “more” so sensitivity at 10 also means “more”… Now, I am “smart enough” to know that at this time in history words don’t really have actual meaning, they are just place holders.I support this 100%. Went from G29 to DD pro and all the time 1 for sensitivity has more detail than anything else. It gets "spongy" if you go above 1. A lot of people do this much to my surprise but I guess that is what it's all about, tweak to suit your tastes
Are you sure ? I've tried switching between 1 and 10 and there is no difference at all. Do you have a use case where I could feel the difference ?We're all mostly running 1 on this setting. I've found that turning it up past 1 (with update 1.15) results in less fidelity with the curbs and road. To me turning up sensitivity with update 1.15 dulls the driving feel at the moment...
Yes, this option should be at maximum to get the most "raw" signal from the game and after that we have INT or FEI to smooth it directly from our fanatec wheels. I'm pretty sure this is a bug on Fanatec wheels as it was already the case with my CSL Elite on GT Sport (no difference at all between min and max FFB Sensitivity in blue mode but it was obvious in purple mode).... which is strange and counter-intuitive, but I've heard this mentioned by YouTube streamers.
Are you sure ? I've tried switching between 1 and 10 and there is no difference at all. Do you have a use case where I could feel the difference ?
Are you sure ? I've tried switching between 1 and 10 and there is no difference at all. Do you have a use case where I could feel the difference ?
Yes, this option should be at maximum to get the most "raw" signal from the game and after that we have INT or FEI to smooth it directly from our fanatec wheels. I'm pretty sure this is a bug on Fanatec wheels as it was already the case with my CSL Elite on GT Sport (no difference at all between min and max FFB Sensitivity in blue mode but it was obvious in purple mode).
Thank you so much for posting that. I just got a DD Pro and couldn't believe how bad it was, virtually undriveable. Your settings make it much better.@Abarth_71 and @Yard_Sale
Please try the following Settings and report back.
I just tweaked them today and to me they just feel incredibly Strong and detailed.
These are the ones my Statements are based on.
8NM Boost Kit
SEN: AUTO
FFB: 100
FFS: PEAK
NDP: 10
NFR: 10
NIN: 10
INT: 3
FEI: 100
FOR: 120
SPR: 0
DPR: 0
GT7 in Game Settings:
Force Feedback Max Torque: 10
Force Feedback Sensitivity: 1
If you don’t experience extreme Forces and highly detailed FFB than something is definitely very wrong.
…for good reasonCrazy how this thread has disintegrated into the GT7 ****** FFB thread.
It’s a thread for the official gran turismo wheel at a time where PD have intentionally broken the FFB. What did you expect?Crazy how this thread has disintegrated into the GT7 ****** FFB thread.
According to Fanatec this is completely normal. Try the tape fix as outlined previously. It may help.Hello fellow GT DD users....
I could do with a bit of help to work out if my GT DD has an issue or not if possible please....
When I go over a high kerb, or hit a sausage kerb, it feels like the wheel jumps a cog and I get a horrible loud noise which sounds like a metal to metal clonk. It obviousely isn't jumping a cog because there are no cogs, but thats what it feels like. It's like all feedback is lost for a split second.
Does everyone get the same thing? I'm hoping, lots of people say "Yes, thats normal"
Personally I hate it, and it doesn't sound like it's doing the wheel any good.
I have the QR1 and 8nm boost kit with V3 pedals and I'm using a set up from @PirovacBoy (thanks dude!). Firmware on everything is up to date.
I have loosened the clamp, checked the shaft is pushed in as far as possible and re-tightened to 10nm. There is a very slight bit of play, but it is only very slight.
My old T-GT never did anything like it, and playing GT7 it felt really good.... perhaps I should have saved the money and stuck with Thrustmaster.
It’s almost certainly the qr1. You can RMA it but dealing with Fanatec CS may make you want to jump off a cliff.Tape fix didn't work for me - I tried all the solutions. It sounds like my click-clonk noise is coming from inside the wheelbase, but who knows. I love this wheel otherwise.
I've read 15 Nm, and tightened accordingly. 10 Nm should be enough though. I've got zero play there. The only slight play I got in high FFB situations with the QR Lite was fixed with electrical tape.I have loosened the clamp, checked the shaft is pushed in as far as possible and re-tightened to 10nm. There is a very slight bit of play, but it is only very slight.
If you hear noise like in this video, then it is QR1, watch the video to the end to find out how to reduce the noise.Hello fellow GT DD users....
I could do with a bit of help to work out if my GT DD has an issue or not if possible please....
When I go over a high kerb, or hit a sausage kerb, it feels like the wheel jumps a cog and I get a horrible loud noise which sounds like a metal to metal clonk. It obviousely isn't jumping a cog because there are no cogs, but thats what it feels like. It's like all feedback is lost for a split second.
Does everyone get the same thing? I'm hoping, lots of people say "Yes, thats normal"
Personally I hate it, and it doesn't sound like it's doing the wheel any good.
I have the QR1 and 8nm boost kit with V3 pedals and I'm using a set up from @PirovacBoy (thanks dude!). Firmware on everything is up to date.
I have loosened the clamp, checked the shaft is pushed in as far as possible and re-tightened to 10nm. There is a very slight bit of play, but it is only very slight.
My old T-GT never did anything like it, and playing GT7 it felt really good.... perhaps I should have saved the money and stuck with Thrustmaster.
If you hear noise like in this video, then it is QR1, watch the video to the end to find out how to reduce the noise.
The other option is to use the bolt provided with QR1.
I used 6mm wide sheet metal, the thickness is 0.2 mm.
Yes, I already went thru that (...and yes, I jumped off the cliff). They offered my a 30% discount for the QR1 metal (not QR1 lite - plastic version). So, I indulged and got the metal QR and I'm also using the set screw - but still no change in the "click-clonk."It’s almost certainly the qr1. You can RMA it but dealing with Fanatec CS may make you want to jump off a cliff.
If you hear noise like in this video, then it is QR1, watch the video to the end to find out how to reduce the noise.
The other option is to use the bolt provided with QR1.
I used 6mm wide sheet metal, the thickness is 0.2 mm.