Fanatec Gran Turismo DD Pro

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Hey guys, just upgraded from g29 to dd pro and raced my first online race yesterday with it (Manu cup).
After about half of the race the steering angle was different than before: I had to turn the wheel much more for the same input in game and the animation in the cockpit was off as well.
I read afterwards if you go to option and then continue the game it should be normal again but I would like to know if someone had the same issue and if there's anything to prevent this (happened in a hairpin and lost 4 positions because of it).
My wheel is set to automatic steering angle.
Would be glad if you could help me.
 
Hey guys, just upgraded from g29 to dd pro and raced my first online race yesterday with it (Manu cup).
After about half of the race the steering angle was different than before: I had to turn the wheel much more for the same input in game and the animation in the cockpit was off as well.
I read afterwards if you go to option and then continue the game it should be normal again but I would like to know if someone had the same issue and if there's anything to prevent this (happened in a hairpin and lost 4 positions because of it).
My wheel is set to automatic steering angle.
Would be glad if you could help me.
I find that perhaps 1:50 starts and the steering rotation input is off so that you have to put in, like triple, the steering input. However this has never happened mid race for me. It is always at the start of a session which is easy to back out and restart.

For races, always do a quick QT. I’ve never had an input error in an actual race if the QT was ok.
 
Hey guys, just upgraded from g29 to dd pro and raced my first online race yesterday with it (Manu cup).
After about half of the race the steering angle was different than before: I had to turn the wheel much more for the same input in game and the animation in the cockpit was off as well.
I read afterwards if you go to option and then continue the game it should be normal again but I would like to know if someone had the same issue and if there's anything to prevent this (happened in a hairpin and lost 4 positions because of it).
My wheel is set to automatic steering angle.
Would be glad if you could help me.
Its been a bug since 1.43. I do a quick pause/resume after almost every cut scene in a race to be safe. Its annoying, but you get quick pretty fast.
 
Have you changed any of your settings for update 1.49?

I generally like my wheel set up but I am wondering if I can do better (almostly certainly!). Did you update your settings and if so what are your new settings?
 
It's definitely due to the firmware updates. I went to help a mate set up his DD Pro and before I updated his gear the F showed up for ages, after it was the same as mine, blink and you'll miss it.
Been using your settings for a long time and loved it, but since the update was wondering if you had made any changes to your set up for the DD Pro?
 
Been using your settings for a long time and loved it, but since the update was wondering if you had made any changes to your set up for the DD Pro?
TBH I haven't even played it since the update. I'll probably have a go later this week, let you know if I change anything.
 
Quick question: I wanna get the McLaren GT3 wheel for my DD Pro. Can anyone tell me what kind of release I need? Is the QR1 Lite enough or do I need a QR2/ QR2 Lite? There are 5 options with one sold out and one costs as much as the wheel itself 😅 Pretty new to the wheel so not much clue (yet!?)

Thanks in advance.
 
Quick question: I wanna get the McLaren GT3 wheel for my DD Pro. Can anyone tell me what kind of release I need? Is the QR1 Lite enough or do I need a QR2/ QR2 Lite? There are 5 options with one sold out and one costs as much as the wheel itself 😅 Pretty new to the wheel so not much clue (yet!?)

Thanks in advance.
You could just get the free QR1 Lite for now but they're not great and can start to slip after a while. I've upgraded to the QR2 on my McLaren wheel, it's very good but bear in mind you have to buy the QR2 Base-Side type C as well.
Don't have any experience of the QR2 Lite, QR2 Pro is not worth the extra cost.
 
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Quick question: I wanna get the McLaren GT3 wheel for my DD Pro. Can anyone tell me what kind of release I need? Is the QR1 Lite enough or do I need a QR2/ QR2 Lite? There are 5 options with one sold out and one costs as much as the wheel itself 😅 Pretty new to the wheel so not much clue (yet!?)

Thanks in advance.
I took the Qr2 (steering wheel and base) and I am very satisfied with it
 
I was just on the Fanatec site considering the QR2 and during checkout there was a $5 "delivery option" added on top of $15 shipping, with tax the total price jumped close to $90, that got my attention.

No explanation of what the extra $5 was for - seems like a "junk fee" to me. I have read that Fanatec is having financial/management problems, and the talk about a Corsair buyout has diminished. Also read that Corsair is having itʻs own problems.

I have the DD Pro, McLaren V3 wheel, and QR1 but havenʻt tried it out yet. Maybe just stick with that until things settle down. But the QR1 doesnʻt seem as solid as it should be.
 
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Quick question: I wanna get the McLaren GT3 wheel for my DD Pro. Can anyone tell me what kind of release I need? Is the QR1 Lite enough or do I need a QR2/ QR2 Lite? There are 5 options with one sold out and one costs as much as the wheel itself 😅 Pretty new to the wheel so not much clue (yet!?)

Thanks in advance.
I am using the Clubsport metal QR1 with my Mclaren GT3 rim. Zero issues. I haven't experienced any disconnects or clunking. Its also a good option if you do not plan on upgrading the base side to QR2 immediately.
 
I haven't played GT7 in several months as haven't had time and don't like playing during the summer with the VR2 headset as it's too hot. Decided to fire up GT7 this evening and everything feels completely different, can hardly feel anything from the sports tires and struggled to complete a lap.
Saw the physics changed a couple of updates ago, have people's general wheel settings changed now?
Thanks
 
I haven't played GT7 in several months as haven't had time and don't like playing during the summer with the VR2 headset as it's too hot. Decided to fire up GT7 this evening and everything feels completely different, can hardly feel anything from the sports tires and struggled to complete a lap.
Saw the physics changed a couple of updates ago, have people's general wheel settings changed now?
Thanks
For most cars I've had to increase the in game FFB strength - generally at 7 or 8, but even at 10 the F1 and SF cars have next to no feedback. Hopefully they will fix this soon...

I'm on DD Pro 8NM
 
For most cars I've had to increase the in game FFB strength - generally at 7 or 8, but even at 10 the F1 and SF cars have next to no feedback. Hopefully they will fix this soon...

I'm on DD Pro 8NM
Thanks for the quick reply, I couldn't believe it felt so different and broken, then I remembered how PD like to make things worse for no apparent reason.

I'll try changing the in game FFB strength.
 
Thanks for the quick reply, I couldn't believe it felt so different and broken, then I remembered how PD like to make things worse for no apparent reason.

I'll try changing the in game FFB strength.
I didn't like how it felt at first, but I do actually prefer it now (I mostly do Gr2,3,4 races) and I find myself a little bit faster/more competitive in most of the daily races.

I've been using settings from @PirovacBoy
• Wheelbase Settings (DD Pro 8nm)
• FFB: 100
• NDP: 25
• NFR: 5
• NIN: 3
• INT: 3

• In-Game Settings
• FFB Max Strength: 8 GR4, 6 or 7 GR2 and GR3
• FFB Sensitivity: 8
 
I didn't like how it felt at first, but I do actually prefer it now (I mostly do Gr2,3,4 races) and I find myself a little bit faster/more competitive in most of the daily races.

I've been using settings from @PirovacBoy
• Wheelbase Settings (DD Pro 8nm)
• FFB: 100
• NDP: 25
• NFR: 5
• NIN: 3
• INT: 3

• In-Game Settings
• FFB Max Strength: 8 GR4, 6 or 7 GR2 and GR3
• FFB Sensitivity: 8
Thanks, I'll give that a try and see if there are any improvements to the feel
 
I didn't like how it felt at first, but I do actually prefer it now (I mostly do Gr2,3,4 races) and I find myself a little bit faster/more competitive in most of the daily races.

I've been using settings from @PirovacBoy
• Wheelbase Settings (DD Pro 8nm)
• FFB: 100
• NDP: 25
• NFR: 5
• NIN: 3
• INT: 3

• In-Game Settings
• FFB Max Strength: 8 GR4, 6 or 7 GR2 and GR3
• FFB Sensitivity: 8
I gave these settings a go and the cars felt much better, you can definitely feel the shape and bumps of the track much better than last time I was playing.
Thanks again for your help.
 
How are folks getting on with their GT DD Pro's, any issues/common faults? Also, is there a big step up from this to the new dd+/dd Extreme? Trying to weigh up purchasing a used GT DD Pro or go for a DD Extreme. Obviously pretty big difference in price but is it justified?
 
Had mine for over two years now and it's been great, no issues at all other than the crap QR Lite. Not interested in upgrading to the DD+, 8Nm is fine with me. I'm not paying £1000 just for FullForce, which no games support at present AFAIK, and a few more Nm.
 
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I have both. The 8nm Pro is really good value at the price and it does a good job. But it felt just a bit lacking in strength. The 5nm is not enough unless price is a big issue but you could start and buy the bigger PS later.

I was back and forth on the + but now having it for 6 months it really was a worthwhile upgrade - just really has added depth to the experience. so if you can swing it the DD+ would be the choice - no regrets.

Didn’t get either GT wheel, but. if that’s in the mix, then the extreme looks way better

No issues w either base
 
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No experience with anything but the DD Pro, and my time with it has been nothing short of excellent. I super enjoy my time with it. It's been pretty flawless as far as software etc as well. I've never updated it as it's always been pretty stellar. I've upgraded to QR2 because I did initially have an occasional disconnect but that went away with the new QR completely. It's plenty strong for me. Someday I'll upgrade but not until it makes sense.

You will likely be very happy with whatever you buy.
 
I’ve had a DD Pro for the last 10 months. It’s been a good introduction to direct drive but my run with it hasn’t been flawless. I’ve had issues with the wheel disconnecting, a third party shaft clamp seems to have solved that issue though. Other than that, I’m always worried about the base bricking itself, having that happen to my CSL load cell pedal.

That said, I’ve been wanting something which I won’t be worried about bricking itself, something with a more open ecosystem and I’ve since moved to racing on PC, so I’ve actually ordered myself a Simagic Alpha Mini and GT Neo wheel which should arrive today.
 
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Got my DD Pro with 8NM for 3 months now and I love it. No problems at all. Although I don't use the standard wheel much. Upgraded to a Formula V2.5 because a formula wheel feels better for racecars imo but I guess that's just personal preference.

One thing I noticed is that it can be a real money sink with all the stuff they offer. With the cockpit,second wheel, load cell, pedal kit and QR2 for both wheels and the base I'm sitting at around 2000€ so far 😂
 
Four months in on my DD pro 8nm with Clubsport QR1 and the V3 pedals.

I love it. 8nm is more than plenty for me. Coming from a 10 year old G29, it feels like heaven.

I have had no major issues whatsoever. The only thing that was slightly tricky to calibrate was the load cell. Once I got it dialled in to my liking, there has been no need to touch any calibration software on the pc since.

I have upgrade to the 455 firmware, but in all honesty, I don't think its necessary to do. Just added stress of the base bricking itself, and to me its made zero difference in anything. I will not be touching firmware again. As @330_D once told me, ''If it aint broke, dont fix it.''
 
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