Fanatec Podium Direct Drive Wheel Bases Thread

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Good stuff! You won't regret it.

My PSU is silent as well, except for the fan that cuts in and out, no electrical hum that others are mentioning. The PSU is also cold to the touch and the DD itself stays cool. Admittedly I do not crank the ffb right up to full.
 
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On this higher end I'm sure people will not regret with any of the DD wheelbases it is just when you constantly compare everything you might loose your mind :D

Got an sms that my buttkicker mount is finally on its way. Got to start thinking about the cable management.

What do you people do with the PSU (I'm thinking about mounting it underneath the base of the rig) and Buttkicker amp remote + main cables?

The rig looks awesome
The wheel and pedals look awesome

All those wires are a mess.

Slightly off topic:

Can someone recommend good hdmi cable (on the longer end 5-7m)? Especially with DD want to get back to some RF2 and ACC racing and need to plug my PC or my laptop (Being disabled it is not ideal to carry it back and forth) to the TV.

I put my PSU's under the pedal deck they are out of the way then and can't get knocked there
 
now that would piss yea off.
now lets see how long it takes them to take care of it
stuff is bad sometimes but they ought to get you a replacement in 2 days id say
 
Hi


I used g29 for 2, t300rs for 3 years. I bought v2.5 2 months ago. Mostly I use it with medium power. I don't like too much power. The problem is: when I played too many hours with it, BB motors make me feel losing its productivity. There is losses in feedback. My goal is not too much power. I want to get healthy feedbacks from product. I mean I want reality. DD1 motor take my attention. Actually I want to buy it. 5 years warranty with 1300 euros prices. But It hasn't security key. It's price must be nearly 100 euros. Totally 1400 euros. DD2's price is 1500 euros. There is 100 euros difference between them. Which product should I prefer? I have also BMW GT2 wheel. Should I prefer Fanatec podium DD1-DD2?
 
Hi


I used g29 for 2, t300rs for 3 years. I bought v2.5 2 months ago. Mostly I use it with medium power. I don't like too much power. The problem is: when I played too many hours with it, BB motors make me feel losing its productivity. There is losses in feedback. My goal is not too much power. I want to get healthy feedbacks from product. I mean I want reality. DD1 motor take my attention. Actually I want to buy it. 5 years warranty with 1300 euros prices. But It hasn't security key. It's price must be nearly 100 euros. Totally 1400 euros. DD2's price is 1500 euros. There is 100 euros difference between them. Which product should I prefer? I have also BMW GT2 wheel. Should I prefer Fanatec podium DD1-DD2?
If you want to buy 5 years warranty, and there only 100 different with DD2 , I will go for DD2 , unless you will get a Killswitch and carbon case cover
 
If you want the 5 yr warranty, go the DD2.
Extra Power, quicker wheel acceleration, kill switch & carbon cover is a no brainer for the extra $100.
 
For those of you playing ACC what are your recommendations for DD1 BRF setting and in-game brake gamma setting? Thanks!
 
now that would piss yea off.
now lets see how long it takes them to take care of it
stuff is bad sometimes but they ought to get you a replacement in 2 days id say
Wonder if they set any Podiums aside for exchanges instead of sales for issues such as this?
 
Unfortunately after a short period of enjoying the new DD1 I had to submit a support ticket on Friday. My unit is broken. PowerSupply is still working ok. After they watched my short video they concluded it has to be a PCBA defect on the motor driver (thanks to the quick answer from Dom and support).

Have to return the unit and it will be replaced by a new one immediately...According to the mail I received it is a direct replacement RMA so it seems they have spares for this kind of issues. I will get another mail with RMA procedure and then I can send it for return. Hopefully by the end of this week a new DD1 unit?!

For now remounted the CSL Elite and wait for a unit swap.

 
This is a joke question, but I am still going to ask. Can I pay you more money to unlock the max torque values on the Podium Racing Wheel I just ordered? :P (but no seriously? maybe? eh? eh?) haha.
This is not possible.

Just mounted my DD1! Super excited to try it out. However when I went to go update the firmware it said that I would be downgrading and that my installed firmware is newer than the one that would be flashed. Should I still do it? I also don't have the FEI option in my settings which is strange.
Yes you should. The firmware found in the current driver package will give you an FEI setting.

Does iRacing need to be set to CSW 2.5 compatibility mode? I’m not getting nearly as much force feedback as I am in F1 2018 so I assume it’s an issue with the settings.
No it works in PC mode. iRacing's FFB behaves VERY differently to F1 2018, and the recommended settings we have (for both Tuning Menu and in-game) are also very different. Please check that you have applied all values correctly. iRacing's FFB is also affected massively by the type of car you are driving, whereas all the cars in F1 2018 are essentially the same. You may have to individually tweak the FFB per car in iRacing in order to find the right strength.
 
Unfortunately after a short period of enjoying the new DD1 I had to submit a support ticket on Friday. My unit is broken. PowerSupply is still working ok. After they watched my short video they concluded it has to be a PCBA defect on the motor driver (thanks to the quick answer from Dom and support).

Have to return the unit and it will be replaced by a new one immediately...According to the mail I received it is a direct replacement RMA so it seems they have spares for this kind of issues. I will get another mail with RMA procedure and then I can send it for return. Hopefully by the end of this week a new DD1 unit?!

For now remounted the CSL Elite and wait for a unit swap.



Bad that it happened but good that you are getting another one soon, mine just gave me a little bit of a scare while playing FM7 on XB1 the whole wheel and base froze and no button presses were registered I even tried to change modes from XB to PC and nothing I couldn't even turn it off with the button on the back I had to unplug it for about 30 seconds and plug it back in that seem to fix it, played for about 1 hour and all good for now.
 
Unfortunately after a short period of enjoying the new DD1 I had to submit a support ticket on Friday. My unit is broken. PowerSupply is still working ok. After they watched my short video they concluded it has to be a PCBA defect on the motor driver (thanks to the quick answer from Dom and support).

Have to return the unit and it will be replaced by a new one immediately...According to the mail I received it is a direct replacement RMA so it seems they have spares for this kind of issues. I will get another mail with RMA procedure and then I can send it for return. Hopefully by the end of this week a new DD1 unit?!

For now remounted the CSL Elite and wait for a unit swap.

...... what the .... :guilty:

why after so many years , Fanatec still got so many issues on the first gen product , is it we always need to wait until v1.5 or v2 come out then safe to buy ?:indiff:
 
PCBA defects could happen. Bad soldering or something broke during shipping etc.
I would start to worry if it is an engine problem or some design flaw (bad cooling, some parts breaking each other etc).

My CSW V2 had a PCBA problem and a dodgy cooling fan.
 
PCBA defects could happen. Bad soldering or something broke during shipping etc.
I would start to worry if it is an engine problem or some design flaw (bad cooling, some parts breaking each other etc).

My CSW V2 had a PCBA problem and a dodgy cooling fan.

My CSW V2 also died, when I turned it on it would just turn to one side a few times then it would just stayed there and never finished calibrating, I also had a PWTS just died while playing, fixed for free along with a shifter.
Never bought the CSW 2.5 or CSL bases because I seemed to always get the faulty Fanatec products, so I went with the Leo Bodnar and GIMX which gave me the best results in PC and consoles (I still believe it feels better than my current PS4 DD, maybe the new software will fix that )
 
Well, my CSW V2 still works fine since the beta days that I was lucky to be a part of.
Sometimes people are just lucky with certain brands and sometimes they just have the worst of luck every time.

I personally used to have it with Seagate harddrives. No matter what I always got one that was either completely dead on arrival or it made clacking noises or it would start to go bad within 3 months.
Hence I always was a Maxtor or Western Digital kind of guy when it came to harddrives in the past. Yet in computershops they would always tell me the return rate of Seagate was lower than that of Maxtor or WD. Which made me frown as it certainly was not my experience.

So yeah... it's weird how lady luck operates at times.
 
Hey @DomB_Fanatec and everyone - I spent the whole weekend testing out the DD1 on iRacing (I'm a new member). The wheel worked flawlessly on the entry level/rookie Miata car but once I got my D racing license and moved up to the Skippy (Skip Barber Car) there were major issues. If I got into a collision with the wall the wheel would lock into that position and would not return to normal when I restarted the track. I would have to to turn my wheel base on and off for it to work. Any ideas?
 
New mounting solution from SimLab:



This looks sweet. Plus the profile pieces in between would make it easy to mount button boxes there or whatever you want really.
Also you'll have a bit more leg room than with the wheel deck I reckon, depending on how you positioned everything.

I wonder what that thing will go for? :)
 
Hey @DomB_Fanatec and everyone - I spent the whole weekend testing out the DD1 on iRacing (I'm a new member). The wheel worked flawlessly on the entry level/rookie Miata car but once I got my D racing license and moved up to the Skippy (Skip Barber Car) there were major issues. If I got into a collision with the wall the wheel would lock into that position and would not return to normal when I restarted the track. I would have to to turn my wheel base on and off for it to work. Any ideas?
Mine locked in one position with GT Sport one time too. Restarted base to unlock it and it hasnt done it since. I kinda wondered if the FEI was set too high. The tire flex vibration was really strong when turning hard and thats when it locked up. Turned FEI down from 70 to 60.
 
This looks sweet. Plus the profile pieces in between would make it easy to mount button boxes there or whatever you want really.
Also you'll have a bit more leg room than with the wheel deck I reckon, depending on how you positioned everything.

I wonder what that thing will go for? :)

My guess would be $100 USD, would have been nice if they released this sooner since I had to buy the wheel deck for the P1 in order to use my new PS4 DD wheel

In the iracing forum someone from Fanatec said they are coming out with the regular side connection for the Fanatec cockpit and also a version for 8020 cockpits, lets see which come to the market first

Exact quote from Dominic Brennan

The Podium bases have the same triangular mounting hole pattern as the CSL and ClubSport bases, so you can easily mount them from below on most wheel plates/decks. Our side mounted brackets will be available soon. They have been redesigned to support aluminium profile uprights (as well as the RennSport).



Another one bites the dust

 
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