Fanatec Reveals Direct Drive ClubSport DD and DD+ Wheel Bases: Available to Pre-Order Now

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Hi, I've had the Extreme bundle since last Wednesday, I too have a very slight electrical noise that can only be heard with total silence in the room, but for me it's ok, I won't replace it, my CSL Pro made an absurd noise, without headphones I couldn't play, and it was ok for Fanatec, this already with the TV sound can no longer be heard.

I heard that the first game compatible with FullForce will arrive in March, I think it's GT7, with the February update, I can't wait.
I went back to the forum for the setup, since I'm using the Pro ones, but I don't find them good for the DD+, to be honest I didn't think I'd find any already, but it's better this way, thanks FMW.

However, I would like to start creating a setup for myself, rather than continuing to use those of others, do you know if there are any guides? To understand how to best set it?

Last thing, do you think it is better to create a specific thread for the settings or if possible, change the title of this one. Because I was creating a new one, to have a thread like the one for the CSL DD Pro, but then I decided to take a look in here first
Did you update drivers/flash firmware etc?
 
These are my GT7 settings for CS DD+ but they are not for everyone, remember to never take your hands off the wheel.

Tuning Menu Settings:

  • SEN Auto
  • FFB 100
  • FUL is irrelevant at the moment
  • NDP Off
  • NFR Off
  • NIN Off
  • INT Off
  • FEI 100
  • FOR 100
  • SPR 100
  • DPR 100
In-Game Settings:
  • Force Feedback Max. Torque: 5
  • Force Feedback Sensitivity: 1
 
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These are my GT7 settings for CS DD+ but they are not for everyone, remember to never take your hands off the wheel.

Tuning Menu Settings:

  • SEN Auto
  • FFB 100
  • FUL is irrelevant at the moment
  • NDP Off
  • NFR Off
  • NIN Off
  • INT Off
  • FEI 100
  • FOR 100
  • SPR 100
  • DPR 100
In-Game Settings:
  • Force Feedback Max. Torque: 5
  • Force Feedback Sensitivity: 1

What base did you have before this? I’m running similar specs with my DD1 with the exception being IG values of 6-1, with my FOR setting being 120.

I’m curious to see how the new CSW base at strong settings stacks up against a DD1
 
FMW
Once you guys get your PLUS bases installed and want a starting point for GT7, here's a TUNING menu setup I worked on today in preparation for the league race I participate in. It felt pretty good. Keep in mind, the base is mounted on a rigid aluminum extrusion rig. I'm using the Fanatec BMW GT2 V2 wheel, which is 320mm in circumference, so small diameter wheels and lighter weight wheels may not like the FFB at 50. Try lowering it a couple of clicks at a time.

SEN auto
FFB 50
Full Force 0-This function is not present in GT7 yet or any game for that matter until the game is patched with this feature
NDP 5
NFR 10
NIN 5
INT 3
FEI 100
FOR 100
SPR off
DPR off
BLI user pref
MPS auto
BRF 85 (user preference. I have load cell pedals with very strong elastomers)

In game
FFB MAX Torque 3
FFB Sensitivity 2

With FFB at 50, you're essentially running a constant force of 7.5-8nm. If you're coming from a GT DD Pro you had the option called Force Effect Scaling in the tuning menu. (Provided you had the BOOST power supply) PEAK or CONSTANT were your two choices. With PEAK, you had peak forces that could reach 8nm. If you selected constant, your FFB was a constant and smooth 5nm. The DD Plus has a constant 15 NM with FFB at 100, so for me the FFB at 50 felt really good. Lots of dynamic detail at the bottom end of the force and top.

If you think you want or need stronger FFB try one click at a time with the FFB setting. One click at a time may achieve what's best for each person. Also, you can try raising the FFB Max Torque in the game, but I feel turning this up too high can dull the FFB detail.
So, I'm waiting for my DD Extreme to be delivered, but I have a Logitech G Pro at the moment.

I have a couple of questions.

Is GT7 allowing the full 15nm or is it limited to 7nm like it is for the Logitech G Pro wheel?

Also, as I understand it, if you have the wheel FFB set to 50, that limits the wheel to 7.5-8nm, but it will only produce 7.5-8nm if in game ffb max torque is set to 10, if you have it set to 3 in game then the game is only outputting 30% of the available ffb torque.
I thought the best way to set FFB in GT7 is to have your wheel set to 100% and set the in game ffb max torque to your preference, so in game max ffb set to 5 will be 7.5-8nm, 10 would be 15nm etc
Because it is limited for the G Pro at the moment, Logitech recommend setting the wheel to 11nm (100%) and in game ffb max torque to 10, that will give the full 7nm available, but it would be the full 11nm if it hadn't been limited by polyphony.

Is it different for Fanatec set up?
 
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These are my GT7 settings for CS DD+ but they are not for everyone, remember to never take your hands off the wheel.

Tuning Menu Settings:

  • SEN Auto
  • FFB 100
  • FUL is irrelevant at the moment
  • NDP Off
  • NFR Off
  • NIN Off
  • INT Off
  • FEI 100
  • FOR 100
  • SPR 100
  • DPR 100
In-Game Settings:
  • Force Feedback Max. Torque: 5
  • Force Feedback Sensitivity: 1
This is what i was planning on and exactly what i want. No strange add on effects, just a good piece of kit, with the proper input(sdk..api..whatev), and let the chips fall. Hopefully Full Force finally bridges any remaining communication gaps and we can all just drive
 
Also, as I understand it, if you have the wheel FFB set to 50, that limits the wheel to 7.5-8nm, but it will only produce 7.5-8nm if in game ffb max torque is set to 10, if you have it set to 3 in game then the game is only outputting 30% of the available ffb torque.
I thought the best way to set FFB in GT7 is to have your wheel set to 100% and set the in game ffb max torque to your preference, so in game max ffb set to 5 will be 7.5-8nm, 10 would be 15nm etc
Because it is limited for the G Pro at the moment, Logitech recommend setting the wheel to 11nm (100%) and in game ffb max torque to 10, that will give the full 7nm available, but it would be the full 11nm if it hadn't been limited by polyphony.

Is it different for Fanatec set up?
I think with Fanatec the in-game FFB slider changes the linearity of the FFB instead of the max torque.
 
So, I'm waiting for my DD Extreme to be delivered, but I have a Logitech G Pro at the moment.

I have a couple of questions.

Is GT7 allowing the full 15nm or is it limited to 7nm like it is for the Logitech G Pro wheel?

Also, as I understand it, if you have the wheel FFB set to 50, that limits the wheel to 7.5-8nm, but it will only produce 7.5-8nm if in game ffb max torque is set to 10, if you have it set to 3 in game then the game is only outputting 30% of the available ffb torque.
I thought the best way to set FFB in GT7 is to have your wheel set to 100% and set the in game ffb max torque to your preference, so in game max ffb set to 5 will be 7.5-8nm, 10 would be 15nm etc
Because it is limited for the G Pro at the moment, Logitech recommend setting the wheel to 11nm (100%) and in game ffb max torque to 10, that will give the full 7nm available, but it would be the full 11nm if it hadn't been limited by polyphony.

Is it different for Fanatec set up?
I'm not sure how Logitech was handling their hardware limits. All I know is that at FFB 50 with my in game settings, GT7 already feels more powerful than my DD Pro set up. I tried FFB 60 last night and it was nuts. That 10 increase made the forces feel 20% or so more powerful. I can't imagine what 100 will feel like, but if you're 6'4" and built like the ROCK, that might be your sweet spot. =) I will try 100 later today after my bike ride.

Hi, I've had the Extreme bundle since last Wednesday, I too have a very slight electrical noise that can only be heard with total silence in the room, but for me it's ok, I won't replace it, my CSL Pro made an absurd noise, without headphones I couldn't play, and it was ok for Fanatec, this already with the TV sound can no longer be heard.

I heard that the first game compatible with FullForce will arrive in March, I think it's GT7, with the February update, I can't wait.
I went back to the forum for the setup, since I'm using the Pro ones, but I don't find them good for the DD+, to be honest I didn't think I'd find any already, but it's better this way, thanks FMW.

However, I would like to start creating a setup for myself, rather than continuing to use those of others, do you know if there are any guides? To understand how to best set it?

Last thing, do you think it is better to create a specific thread for the settings or if possible, change the title of this one. Because I was creating a new one, to have a thread like the one for the CSL DD Pro, but then I decided to take a look in here first
This video is a little old, but the information is spot on. It clearly explains what the FANATEC settings do. BOOSTED MEDIA-FANATEC Settings EXPLAINED
 
These are my GT7 settings for CS DD+ but they are not for everyone, remember to never take your hands off the wheel.

Tuning Menu Settings:

  • SEN Auto
  • FFB 100
  • FUL is irrelevant at the moment
  • NDP Off
  • NFR Off
  • NIN Off
  • INT Off
  • FEI 100
  • FOR 100
  • SPR 100
  • DPR 100
In-Game Settings:
  • Force Feedback Max. Torque: 5
  • Force Feedback Sensitivity: 1
Good evening Mr Super GT
I just came across your post and your settings made me curious
Could you explain why you chose to basically keep all or almost all available settings turned off
And what would you say what is the MOST noticeable difference to the GT DD Pro in comparison to the new Wheelbase besides of course the increased NM Output.

What is your approach in setting up the FFB... what are you looking for?
 
Good evening Mr Super GT
I just came across your post and your settings made me curious
Could you explain why you chose to basically keep all or almost all available settings turned off
And what would you say what is the MOST noticeable difference to the GT DD Pro in comparison to the new Wheelbase besides of course the increased NM Output.

What is your approach in setting up the FFB... what are you looking for?
These settings that are turned off can slow the steering wheel down and worsen the oversteer feel, which is very important to me as I constantly drive on the edge of oversteer, but the steering wheel can oscillate if let go, but since I always hold the steering wheel with at least one hand this is not a problem for me.
CS DD+ is significantly faster than GT DD Pro which makes it more detailed and oversteer is felt earlier and more precisely.
 
I agree with Super_GT regarding the difference between the GT DD Pro and the DD Plus. It feels faster. It’s not night and day, like going from a tried and true Logitech, but it’s definitely noticeable especially if you’re involved in competitive racing. Personally, I noticed this last night during my league race. I wasn’t faster, but I was able to be more consistent with my apexes and limits due to the ability to catch oversteer quicker.

At this point, I’m more curious about the electrical noises people are reporting with the base. While slight as I’ve mentioned in previous posts, I’m just curious if everyone has it?
 
These are my GT7 settings for CS DD+ but they are not for everyone, remember to never take your hands off the wheel.

Tuning Menu Settings:

  • SEN Auto
  • FFB 100
  • FUL is irrelevant at the moment
  • NDP Off
  • NFR Off
  • NIN Off
  • INT Off
  • FEI 100
  • FOR 100
  • SPR 100
  • DPR 100
In-Game Settings:
  • Force Feedback Max. Torque: 5
  • Force Feedback Sensitivity: 1
Are some of these only available through PC? In game there's about 2 or 3 of these settings that do not allow me to change them strictly through the wheel for GT7. I can select them, they show the value, but will not go up or down to be adjusted.
 
Heads up to those U.S. customers for the DD+ Extreme. Just checked my order number for FedEx, and it shows label created. My order was placed on the 9th.
 
Are some of these only available through PC? In game there's about 2 or 3 of these settings that do not allow me to change them strictly through the wheel for GT7. I can select them, they show the value, but will not go up or down to be adjusted.
There's a tuning menu button on all Fanatec wheels/button boxes, press that and you'll be able to change these FFB settings.
 
FMW
At this point, I’m more curious about the electrical noises people are reporting with the base. While slight as I’ve mentioned in previous posts, I’m just curious if everyone has it?
If I get really close to the base I can hear a very small humming noise, which is actually even smaller than the same noise on my DD Pro.
 
A
There's a tuning menu button on all Fanatec wheels/button boxes, press that and you'll be able to change these FFB settings.
As stated in my post, through the on wheel menu I can access and change all but 3 of them. Therefore I asked if I need to be on PC to change the others.
 
Heads up to those U.S. customers for the DD+ Extreme. Just checked my order number for FedEx, and it shows label created. My order was placed on the 9th.
Also ordered on the 9th. Just attempted to find using the order number as a reference #.

No joy :/

Happy to hear yours is making progress!
 
A

As stated in my post, through the on wheel menu I can access and change all but 3 of them. Therefore I asked if I need to be on PC to change the others.
Are you in the “auto” menu or “advanced” tuning menu? Auto only allows for a few setting changes, whereas advanced gives you access to all.
“Auto” is the default menu. To access “advanced”, you must press and hold for 3 seconds the button that gets you into the tuning menus.
 
FMW
Are you in the “auto” menu or “advanced” tuning menu? Auto only allows for a few setting changes, whereas advanced gives you access to all.
“Auto” is the default menu. To access “advanced”, you must press and hold for 3 seconds the button that gets you into the tuning menus.
Thank you! First Fanatec, had no clue there were hidden settings options.

I tried what Super GT offered and it was mostly good, (other than his FFB, jesus that's strong...) but I had to adjust 2 things to make the wheel more friendly for... a new and far more casual Fanatec user, coming from a T300.

SEN Auto
FFB 60
FUL is irrelevant at the moment
NDP 3 (if you have this at 'off' the wheel does that weird oscillating thing when you are at center, which means you can't let go off the wheel or it will zip back and forth endlessly)
NFR Off
NIN Off
INT 5 (this is interpolation. If you have this off, the wheel feels like garbage to me, as a casual player. It feels cheap and broken, clunky, almost like being back on a gear driven wheel, like my old-school driving force GT wheel.)
FEI 100
FOR 100
SPR 100
DPR 100

In game settings I went with
Max Torque 5
Sensitivity 1

Basically I tried to get as close as I could to Super GTs settings, but put the FFB way lower cuz I'm a casual gamer. And I had to get rid of the crazy back and forth nonsense when the wheel is sitting at center untouched. And I couldn't stand the feel or noise of the wheel without a little interpolation smoothing out the game inputs. But I tried to use the lowest amounts to just get rid of the annoying parts, and keep the best of everything else.

If you're like me and are having a hell of a time getting the V2 brake pedal to 100% without destroying your back into your racing seat, or bending my pedal base to its absolute limits, I had to drop it down to 15-25% on the wheel setting so I could reliably get to 100% braking power without feeling like I'm leg pressing 300lbs. (With the three 65 bushings). But I've never had a load cell brake.

This is for GT7, and for reference, I really only drive GT3 cars. I am normal human quick, but not an alien by any measure.

Hopefully that helps anyone in a similar situation as me. Basically as close to SuperGTs settings as I can, just with 2 QoL adjustments for casual racers. Everyone can adjust their FFB settings to their preference obviously, it's the other things that seem to matter for gameplay.

Good luck!
P.s. I have no done any software or firmware updates. Straight out of the box and into GT7.
 
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Thank you! First Fanatec, had no clue there were hidden settings options.

I tried what Super GT offered and it was mostly good, (other than his FFB, jesus that's strong...) but I had to adjust 2 things to make the wheel more friendly for... a new and far more casual Fanatec user, coming from a T300.

SEN Auto
FFB 60
FUL is irrelevant at the moment
NDP 3 (if you have this at 'off' the wheel does that weird oscillating thing when you are at center, which means you can't let go off the wheel or it will zip back and forth endlessly)
NFR Off
NIN Off
INT 5 (this is interpolation. If you have this off, the wheel feels like garbage to me, as a casual player. It feels cheap and broken, clunky, almost like being back on a gear driven wheel, like my old-school driving force GT wheel.)
FEI 100
FOR 100
SPR 100
DPR 100

In game settings I went with
Max Torque 4
Sensitivity 1

Basically I tried to get as close as I could to Super Gats settings, but put the FFB way lower cuz I'm a casual gamer. And I had to get rid of the crazy back and forth nonsense when the wheel is sitting at center untouched. And I couldn't stand the feel or plains of the wheel without a little interpolation smoothing out the game inputs. But I tried to use the lowest amounts to just get rid of the annoying parts, and keep the best of everything else.

If you're like me and are having a hell of a time getting the V2 brake pedal to 100% without destroying your back into your racing seat, or bending my pedal base to its absolute limits, I had to drop it down to 15-25% on the wheel setting so I could reliably get to 100% braking power without feeling like I'm leg pressing 300lbs. (With the three 65 bushings). But I've never had a load cell brake.

This is for GT7, and for reference, I really only drive GT3 cars. I am normal human quick, but not an alien by any measure.

Hopefully that helps anyone in a similar situation as me. Basically as close to SuperGTs settings as I can, just with 2 QoL adjustments for casual racers. Everyone can adjust their FFB settings to their preference obviously, it's the other things that seem to matter for gameplay.

Good luck!
P.s. I have no done any software or firmware updates. Straight out of the box and into GT7.
Wait, you have your brake force between 15-25%, or you mean you backed it off by that much from 100%? Lol
 
Wait, you have your brake force between 15-25%, or you mean you backed it off by that much from 100%? Lol
I have it at 15 on the wheel setting.
I play in socks, and sit in a semi f1 style sitting position.
20 is fine, but seems unnecessary. At 25 I'm really putting stress on my back/seat and the base of my Playseat is flexing at the pedals. I believe if I race at that level long term, I will eventually break this rig.
15 feels much safer. 20 will probably be where I settle in down the road maybe?
Embarrassing, but... maybe as the bushings break in, or I get used to the feeling, I can get it higher again.
 
I got my DD+. Had to update firmware, otherwise wouldn't even be recognized by PS5.

Couple of notes. When I first powered the base on, there was an obnoxious coil whine. Very different from what I'm accustomed to with GPUs and such. This was constantly changing in both pitch and volume. Sounded exactly like what a storm wind blowing in from gaps in doors or windows sounds like. Was already feeling the disappointment of having to send it back, but after the firmware update and a couple of hours of use, I'm not sure anymore. It seemed almost gone when I turned it off a moment ago. Will have to keep an ear on it.

Anyone else had a weird sharp clunk in GT7 every now and then on certain corner entries? I have this especially when driving road cars with comfort tyres in Tsukuba on turns 7 and 10. Not every time, but more often than not. It kind of feels like QR movement, but I don't think it is that since my QR2 feels super solid otherwise.
 
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I got my DD+. Had to update firmware, otherwise wouldn't even be recognized by PS5.

Couple of notes. When I first powered the base on, there was an obnoxious coil whine. Very different from what I'm accustomed to with GPUs and such. This was constantly changing in both pitch and volume. Sounded exactly like what a storm wind blowing in from gaps in doors or windows sounds like. Was already feeling the disappointment of having to send it back, but after the firmware update and a couple of hours of use, I'm not sure anymore. It seemed almost gone when I turned it off a moment ago. Will have to keep an ear on it.

Anyone else had a weird sharp clunk in GT7 every now and then on certain corner entries? I have this especially when driving road cars with comfort tyres in Tsukuba on turns 7 and 10. Not every time, but more often than not. It kind of feels like QR movement, but I don't think it is that since my QR2 feels super solid otherwise.
Feels like hitting a pothole in a real car? I have it on occasion with my DD Pro. I chalk it up to a track anomaly or sharp curbing usually. It happens in the same places when it happens. I never really paid attention but I'll try and see if I can replicate next time I find a spot where it does it. Usually it seems to do it when I'm fast. I feel it when I'm having a good lap or particularly good session the most.
 
Feels like hitting a pothole in a real car? I have it on occasion with my DD Pro. I chalk it up to a track anomaly or sharp curbing usually. It happens in the same places when it happens. I never really paid attention but I'll try and see if I can replicate next time I find a spot where it does it. Usually it seems to do it when I'm fast. I feel it when I'm having a good lap or particularly good session the most.
Something like that, yes. Might be a natural occurence then. Thanks for the info 👍
 
re: chunking. Could it be gt7 ‘clipping,’ Have you tried knocking the ffb down in game to see if it persists?
I did. Went down to max torque 2, no change. But messing with NDP and INT seems to help. To me, there just seems to be a specific FFB signal in GT7 that makes this sudden clunk when the car is doing a fast weight transfer and turn-in. Haven't noticed it with T-GT II, so either Fanatec specific or just something that a strong, very fast wheelbase brings out. I'm pretty sure this can be tweaked out.

On my other issue, I don't know what exactly did it but the coil whine is practically gone. On first start up I could hear it from the next room. Now I can't hear it sitting in the rig.
 
This is what i was planning on and exactly what i want. No strange add on effects, just a good piece of kit, with the proper input(sdk..api..whatev), and let the chips fall. Hopefully Full Force finally bridges any remaining communication gaps and we can all just drive
These settings that are turned off can slow the steering wheel down and worsen the oversteer feel, which is very important to me as I constantly drive on the edge of oversteer, but the steering wheel can oscillate if let go, but since I always hold the steering wheel with at least one hand this is not a problem for me.
CS DD+ is significantly faster than GT DD Pro which makes it more detailed and oversteer is felt earlier and more precisely.
I'm trying to remain strong and wait for FullForce implementation/reviews but yall are making it hard lololol.
 
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