Here is my new setup and those shoes that are on the gas and brake, those are my bowling shoes. I use those for racing with now. Why? Two reasons:
1 - They are the narrowest shoes I own so my feet don't hit the wrong pedal accidentally.
2 - The heel part of the shoes is plastic that provides stability against the pedal floor and the toe part is slippery as to provide NO resistance when controlling the throttle and I have great control now
Something I have never heard of people doing before, kind of like Rocky being the first to hit raw meat 💡
Here are some pics in case you are like me and said 'WTF? The G25 gear shifter doesn't fit the playseat gear shift holder!?!?!'
So basically, there are four screw to unscrew at the bottom of the G25 shifter as that triangle base with the black screw (for mounting to tabletops) won't fit in the metal casing on the playseat adapter. There are two easily visible and then two hidden down deep, one on the left and another on the right and you ca see them dangling from the piece I am talking about. NOTE: I had to buy a specific 3" long by 3/16" wide screwdriver to fit not only the hole but the phillips head screw.
Then since you don't need that you can use the two hex screws and screw them into the bottom of the G25 shifter sitting on top of the playseat mount.
UPDATE: I've had some questions on how to use G25 Pedals on a DFGT wheel, so here's some steps!
Why not have the best of both worlds; the buttons on the Driving Force GT Wheel with the precision and quality of the G25/G27 pedals? I’m betting you do and this quick guide will help you do just that. A good friend of mine Strop over at GTPlanet.net originally posted he successfully did ‘operation wheel-lovechild’ and after seeing it firsthand, I always wanted to do the same. His post can be found here, however he just has pics of the final product. So I’m here to fill you in on the details. I don’t own a G27 wheel, so I’m assuming it will be the same procedure since the G25 and G27 are so similar. Let me know if it does or doesn’t work if you are a G27 owner.
NOTE: Before I do anything, I have to let you know that you may lose any remaining warranty with Logitech, so proceed with caution.
Step 1: Required Equipment
– Logitech G25/G27 Wheel
– Logitech Driving Force GT Wheel
– Size 2.5 Hex/Allen Wrench (I’m assuming metric size here)
– Average Size Phillips Screwdriver
– Small Size Phillips Screwdriver (one that would fit most common laptop screws)
– Needle Nose Pliers
– WD-40 (only recommend if your pedals squeak a little, you may as well fix that while you are at it)
– About 20 Gauge Speaker Wire (very small)
– Electrical Tape
– Scissors
– Post-It Notes
– Pen
– Tape
– About 2 Hours, Maybe More Depending On Your Wheel Setup
Step 1 – Once you have gathered these common tools, the first thing we want to do is open up the Driving Force GT Pedal Stand. Flip it over and unscrew all the top and middle screws and remove the cover. Inside you will find the gears to the pedals and more importantly, the pedal wires. One recommendation I have before you remove the wires off the DF-GT, is to write down what order they originally were in, in case you need to refer to it later (take a picture, write it on a post-it, etc.) and the same goes for the G25 pedals in the next step. We will need to use our needle nose pliers to firmly but gently remove the wires from the gears. Once that is done for all the cables on both pedals you will notice you can’t easily take the wires out. You will need to unscrew the screws holding the gears in place first. Once that is done we have our much needed wire in hand.
Step 2 – Next, do the same for the G25 pedals. Here, its a little more confusing because of the clutch pedal wires, but I would recommend doing one pedal and quickly labeling it for a reference later if needed (seriously, you never know). Once the cables are detached from the pedals go ahead and grab the DF-GT wires (hopefully you labeled the wires so you know which is which) and look at my pedal connection picture below. It is a colorful/graphical layout of how these cables get connected and is really all you need if you have experience running speaker wire for surround sound, etc. When you think all the cables are connected, double check your work and then move on to step 3, testing.
Step 3 – Now that we basically have everything connected, fire up your PS3, insert the Gran Turismo disc and connect the pedal and power cables to the wheel. It’s a good sign if it starts to calibrate. Go into a free run and test out the brakes, gas, shifting, views…Everything, to make sure its all working. NOTE: When I did this it always calibrated, and I didn’t know I had the wrong wires until testing, i.e. pressing the brake or gas had the opposite effect.
Step 4 – Finally, we can put it all back together (if you haven’t yet already). Step 4 is where you can hit a gray area and void the warranty on the wheel if needed to send it in. I have a cockpit with a flat surface and am going to try leaving the pedals exposed like my friend at GTPlanet did. I also have another requirement, for comfort, and that is to widen the gap between the gas and brake pedals so I can A) left-foot brake and B) to provide more room for-…well, I’m a guy
What I had to do to achieve this was get some speaker wire and cut the Red and Black cables connecting from the gas to the brake, the Green cable coming directly from the main line. Even if you plan on using the G25/G27 Pedal Stand, you will find the wires are just barely too short to connect between the pedals. So unless you have a setup exactly like Strop’s at GTPlanet where the pedals are exposed and next to each other, you will need to extend the wires; voiding any warranty.
Step 5 – Extending the wires can be tricky if you haven’t done it before. But I’ll break it down as easy as I can. First, cut the Green cable from the main line to the Brake in the middle. Next to the same with the Red and Black cable going from the Gas to the Brake (again, refer to the pedal diagram, that should clarify any confusion on this step). Once the cables are cut in the middle Carefully take a pair of scissors and Gently cut just the exterior plastic cover over the copper wire. Just enough to use your nails and pull the coat off at the line you cut. Then twist the exposed cable tightly and do the same for the other side of the Green cable as well as the speaker wire and Red and Black cables. Once they are all cut and wound tightly, match the two ends up (speaker wire and colored wire) and twist them together tightly and wrap them (yes, tightly) in small strip of electrical tape. NOTE: I recommend cutting the colored cables in the middle because you can continue to use the metal connector on the end and don’t have to mess with re-clamping or anything like that. Once you do that, just put the G25 Pedal Stand back together (don’t forget the two screws under the carpet traction strip!) and Enjoy! I’ll be posting pictures of my setup once I figure out how I want to mount the pedals to my Playseat Evolution. There are holes for each pedal and holes on the Pedal Plate so I should be able to get something together, if not drill my own smaller holes for a more custom fit. Remember, the clutch pedal from the G25/G27 won’t be used. Feel free to post any questions if you get stuck or email me at
jumpace@gmail.com. Here’s the cable diagram I mentioned earlier:
Jerome