General Model Kit Building Thread

Ok you all here is the first step till I'm done.
Here you see it's painted.
Gran-Turismo_Skyline-GT-R_R3417.jpg


Now the roof stencils are off and the trunk stencils are off.
Gran-Turismo_Skyline-GT-R_R3418.jpg


Gran-Turismo_Skyline-GT-R_R3419.jpg


Now I will go back and repaint the hood and fix the look aroung the stripe, and put on the Company logo.
Gran-Turismo_Skyline-GT-R_R3420.jpg


Now the wheels you see here will not be on the car at the end. They are just for these shot.
Gran-Turismo_Skyline-GT-R_R3421.jpg


Gran-Turismo_Skyline-GT-R_R3422.jpg


You know I think the just befor I do the black I should paint on a white ptrip just under the line on where the black starts so I can make some stencils for the word Gran Turismo .......hummmmm. Well that's what's next. Oh and one more thing so far as the GT logo for the sides, I was thinking of do them with Bare Metal Foil. But I'm still thinking on that two. You Know that the japanese love to put chrome images on there car.
See here:->
BNSports_ps13blue1.jpg


Well what do you all think now?
 
Are you going to put clearcoat over the entire paintjob?

The paint edges for the logos and stripes are going to stand out a bit, and a coat of clear should help hide 'em a little.
 
Hmm, I think that painting the lighter colour on a two-tone body first would have made this job a bit easier... (Paint the roof and rear end silver, then mask it and paint the body red.)

Excellent work and pictures, though.
 
Do you know that once you paint any thing silver and put any othere color over it and try to mask it the tape will pull up any color it's over? I'm using Enamels. Go back an look at the start. The Orange needed white to look brighter. Orange over silver looks dark.
Any way here's where I stoped.
First I was going to Free hand the game logo but that is not what I did. I copyed the logo from the top of my game disc and cut out the logo then I cut the clear tape wile laying over the copyed image.
Gran-Turismo_Skyline-GT-R_R3423.jpg

Gran-Turismo_Skyline-GT-R_R3425.jpg


Once that was done I masked off the full car and painted the white line I need for the GT logo.
Gran-Turismo_Skyline-GT-R_R3424.jpg

Gran-Turismo_Skyline-GT-R_R3426.jpg


Once the white was dry I put on the logo stencils.
Gran-Turismo_Skyline-GT-R_R3427.jpg


An put on the black. what you think? I was goint to wate till I had the Rays logo on and Bridgestone logo's on, But I wanted you all to see I'm getting there.( I'm goint to tuch up on the GT logo and othere things once I'm done and the car is fully dry.
Gran-Turismo_Skyline-GT-R_R3428.jpg


Gran-Turismo_Skyline-GT-R_R3429.jpg


Gran-Turismo_Skyline-GT-R_R3430.jpg

I'm goint to take a small brake till the car body is fully dry. (Then I'll be back at it.)
 
I built the 1990 Corvette ZR1 from GT4. I'm working on the '96 Grand Sport too, but I'm gettin kind of sick of Corvettes, so I got some NSX's and Skylines on the way.
mikes001.jpg

videos005.jpg
 
Hummmm so how do you feel about you name now? I have that same kit to my kit is a Re-issued one. I can wate to see what you have on tap for you NSX,Skyline kits.
 
I still love 1:1 Vettes, but these AMT kits are getting on my nerves. I actually started a little work on one of my NSX kits today, the Mobil 1 PIAA car. It's in my Fotki right now, but it should be a locked folder. I'll get a few pictures pf it up a little later.
 
Cool can wate to see it, I'm bizzy painting the big GT images or logo on the sides of the GT-R with there shadows. I will have new pics up soon.
 
I hate that HOC masking clear masking tape. It keeps coming up from the subject, I have to stop and push it back down. (Note to self use Clear MT for real car painting).
Here's the GT logo.
Oh I know I need to tuch it up alot!
Gran-Turismo_Skyline-GT-R_R3431.jpg

Gran-Turismo_Skyline-GT-R_R3433.jpg

Gran-Turismo_Skyline-GT-R_R3434.jpg

Gran-Turismo_Skyline-GT-R_R3435.jpg


Sorry for it be-ing fuzz in that one.
As for the wheels the Aoshima wheels look good but the Tamiya wheels lokk closer to the real ones. so I'm goint to mold the tamiya wheels for this build and otheres.
In the image the Aoshima wheels are on the Left (Painted) and the Tamiya are on the right (Un-painted)
Gran-Turismo_Skyline-GT-R_R3436.jpg


I cut out the under side of the RB26 so I can (once I get the body done) drop in a resin motor.
 
Most of the time Testors for both (Enamel)paint and (Clear)cement. I'm now starting to try othere type's of paint. Othere paints have a lot of steps to do. but once I get all the tuch ups done I will cover the body with Dupli-Color Crystal Clear Acrylic Enamel from a can. LOL I hope it works.
www.duplicolor.com
I want to get in to using the HOC Kustom Kolors better.
 
I agree - excellent!

Couple of Q's.

1. What brand of masking film do you use?
2. Do you take it off immediately after painting, or leave it a few minutes?
3. I assume you give the colour a very light sand after you've peeled off the mask after it's dry just to take the raised edges down... right? (Say in this case, the orange over the white on the fine detail on the boot.)
4. How on earth do you mould off those rims?! What material do you use for the new castings?! Tell me everything about that shizzle!!
 
Dude, your killin on those graphics. When are you gonna post some of these new pics on SA? As for me, here are some pics of my Grand Sport's progress with a screen shot of course...
mikes002-2.jpg

mikes001-1.jpg

mikes001.jpg
 
Looks good. The paint on the hood came out nicely, although it appears to be a slightly different hue then the rest of the body.
 
Venari first as to your list->
1. House of Kolor: Kustom color clear masking.
2. I leave it on for a few minutes.
3. Some time if I don't for-get.
4.How on earth do I mold the wheel and what type of material's do I use for the new castings?
I use Alumilite Quick set for noncomplex molds. And some times the High Strength for more complex molds. If your only going to do wheels you should only use Quick set.
AlumiliteRubberImage1.jpg

If you don't have a Hobby shop near you go here.

http://www.alumilite.com/index.php?page=home
5. Tooth picks!!!!! lotsssssssssssssss Of Tooth picks!!!!!!

As for the full (shizzle) as you call it you need a full tutorial on it. Hummmmmmmm let's see ok first you need some things here's a list of what I used to do my molds'.

Wheel Mold making 101 (Material list)
1. A clean place to work. aka your desk or some thing flat and clean did I say "CLEAN" ya know what um say'in.
2. A Buckit of Legos to make your mold box or box'es.
3. Like the image up there a full box or kit from alumilite casting kit. Don get the starter kit it will not have all the things to do a two part mold like this.
I know I have a full box image I just can't fined it now but here's what's in the box.
dodge_sidewinder_conceptBuild_up14.jpg

you get one can or jar of RTV Rubber two long jars of 2 part resin the catlist for the rubber and mold release for two part molds, Mixing sticks and cups.
3. I hope you have the wheels that you will need to work with.
4.One jar of Mold Builder Liquid Latex Rubber. (For filling in the wheel cavity)-[open space]
5. Time to do the work. "OK" if you have all that stuff let's get to it!

My first Wheel Mold & Casting Tutorial on GTP (hope this helps) with lot of images.
ok this is what your mold should look like once your done.
Mold-MakerPart21.jpg


1. First you need to fill in the wheel cavity with the liquid laytex and let dry. see here->
Mold-MakerPart22.jpg

I'm not using to original wheel here,sorry hope you can keep up.
2. Once it's dry like in the wheel image of the NISMO Wheels here.
Gran-Turismo_Skyline-GT-R_R3436.jpg

this it what laytex looks like dry.(the wheel set on the right)
By now you should have built you Lego box (only you know how mini wheels you want to work with) I suggest you only do two at the time if this is you first time. I know I know why? you have to work quick with this resin cures or get's hard fast like 60 sec. fast.
You will need to use your tooth picks to work out the bubbles!
3. Ok now that the Lego box is made. you need to mix up you RTV Quick set Silicone or rubber what ever you want to call it. Reed the manul that tells you how to mix the catlist with the rubber and pour in over the wheel that are in the middle of your Lego box. once you let it dry over night. it look's like this(Remeber) this is only one side of the mold.
Mold-MakerPart27.jpg

4. Pull the laytex rubber that you used to fill the wheel with out. it will look likt the red wheel in the image above after it's out. Now don't pull the wheel out!!!! Now you need to rub on the Mold Release that's in you kit the kit will tell you how to do this But if you need I will tell you my way (Use a paint bush to wipe it all over the first mold base.
Cover it as this is where the next layer will go.
There are two way to make the back mold and I will talk you through it. the first and EZ way is to make a post in the back like the Lowrider model wheel. or keep the one that is on the original wheel. to keep the stock or Original Wheel mount just go on and mix up your next batch after you have added some more legos to raise the hight of the box for the next batch and pour in.

If you want to do it my way. After you have pulled the laytex out. Now you need to rub on the Mold Release that's in you kit the kit will tell you how to do this But if you need I will tell you my way (Use a paint bush to wipe it all over the first mold base.
Cover it as this is where the next layer will go.
Now use a small dab on you finger and touch the wheel mount on the inside of the wheel and get your Aluminium tubing or styrene for the post. If you have enuff laytex to hold the tubing up let it dry.
Once it's dry pour in the next batch and let dry.
Mold-MakerPart28.jpg

5. Once the next layer of RTV rubber is dry it should look like this.
Mold-MakerPart29.jpg


6. now pull apart the two mold and remove the tube and wheel.
Mold-MakerPart28.jpg

Mold-MakerPart210.jpg

Ok your done with the mold next is the casting.
 
(Ok I hope I don't get the GTP Host mad for posting back to back.)


PART TWO

Wheel Casting Tutorial
1. From you Alumilite kit get out you long jars of A.B. Resin and you mixing sticks and cups. Reed the sirections for the amount you my need (I used 1/4 FL.OZ. or each)
Mold-MakerPart211.jpg

2. Get out your tooth picks!!!!!!
Mold-MakerPart212.jpg

3. (Important) when your mixing the clear with the brown or goldin resin it will start to heat up dont keep mixing as it will cure in your hand and my bern you. you need to test it out first to learn how long to mix and when to pour.
Ok now that you have it mix and pour in the goldin resin.
Mold-MakerPart213.jpg

4. now quick use your tooth pick to work out as mini bubbles as you can and put on the top or sec. layer.
Mold-MakerPart214.jpg

if you made you mold like my mold it will look like this.
Mold-MakerPart215.jpg


Most of the bubbles will be pressed out the top hole.
if you made you mold the othere way you need to cut some "V" Groovs from the wheel to to out side edge for the resin to run out. (Some times the resin will run out all the side if you used a lot)
5. Now that you have the resin in the mold let it dry you can pull in out after a short time Once the resin it dry it should look like this.(get something to cut this tab or cap off)
Mold-MakerPart216.jpg

Mold-MakerPart217.jpg

6. Work or wiggle the rubber apart and you should have a part or wheel that looks like this.
Mold-MakerPart218.jpg

Mold-MakerPart219.jpg

Now the Wheels I use where the Super Advan Racing Ver. 2 from the Hype silvia drift kit.
ADVAN19.jpg

I know you want to know what hapond to the outer wheel for that all you have to do is make a one part mold (Remember) all you need is to put some laytex on the bottem to hold it to the surface in you lego box. Now when it comes time to pour in the resin you need to do one wheel at a timeuse a tooth pick to hold or make a gap in the ring shape and pour with the othere handand quick try to work out any bubbles. (This is if you have and outer ring to do.
Here some more wheel I did.
Mold-MakerPart220.jpg

ResinWheels.jpg

Need_Wheels8.jpg

Here's a two part wheel for a 4x4 truck.
VRWWheelsRevell4x4wheels3.jpg


The frounts
VRWWheelsRevell4x4wheels4.jpg


The rears
VRWWheelsRevell4x4wheels5.jpg
 
Have you considered writing articles for scale model car magazines? That work is fantastic!

As for double-posting, you would still be on painting the body if you waited for someone to reply.
 
So true So true! I would be happy to write for any model mag if I could catch some ones ear. LOL At SAM (Scale Auto Mag.) there is a contest to write an article for the mag but with one catch all the one that don't win become the "Property" of the mag and can be used if the mag want's to use them. see the draw back for me. Oh and they don't have to let any one know who cam up with the article. That's the one's that lose. If I write I want the recognition for my work even if I don't get payed for all of them.
 
I had to take time off from this build to do a model I have had on hold for some time it's a Military Model of the M2A2 Bradley. If any of you wanto see it I will post the finished model. To day is photo day at my house for my models.
 
Mister R34, thanks for that tutorial - fantastic.

Looking forward to seeing the pace car. :)
 
Ok you all I'll be back soon as I'm at the end on one of my biggest ever projects The move car of Corvette Summer (Stingray).
stingray-car_shots2.jpg

Twin-stingrays_Projects33.jpg


Once it's done I will be only one this project till it's done.
 
Looks good so far, got any pics of the engine and interior, cant see much form that pic but from what i can see they look pretty good!
 
What's that kit's make? Did it come with some wiring or are you doing it all yourself from add-ons?
 

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