Honda Fan Club - under new management
- Thread starter THE ED3
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- 5,833
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The back seats in a Prelude are good for nothing except legless midgets with no necks. I've been in my backseat once, for about 5 minutes, and that was almost 4 years ago.
- 5,428
- Midship_Express
This is why I take backseat out. 👍
- 8,480
- P_Balance
I need some answers, and I'm having trouble finding them.
I'm thinking to swap a B16 into my 99 civic eventually, most likely a couple years down the road, but, all the swaps and stuff I'm seeing, mostly the one's that come with some kind of "install kit" which comes with engine mounts and such, I'm seeing that they say things like, "will fit 96-98"
Other parts, such as flywheels say things like "96-01 civic (exept 99 and SI)"
What's different about my car? And which b16 do I need in order to just bolt it up and go?
EDIT: I realize they will all need some work, but why is my car an exception when it still has the same d16 engine as the other cars?
I'm thinking to swap a B16 into my 99 civic eventually, most likely a couple years down the road, but, all the swaps and stuff I'm seeing, mostly the one's that come with some kind of "install kit" which comes with engine mounts and such, I'm seeing that they say things like, "will fit 96-98"
Other parts, such as flywheels say things like "96-01 civic (exept 99 and SI)"
What's different about my car? And which b16 do I need in order to just bolt it up and go?
EDIT: I realize they will all need some work, but why is my car an exception when it still has the same d16 engine as the other cars?
- 5,428
- Midship_Express
For parts such as flywheels and such they will be for the original engine so if you but a B series into your car you will need parts from a 99-00 SI rather than a 99-00 EX/LX/DX/CX because those all came with D series.
Being a 99 model the car is obd-2. For it to be a more direct and possibly more legal swap you'll need one from a 99-00 civic SI. If your local laws do not require that you use an engine newer than your car then you can go with an engine from an integra, a del sol vtec or an sir-2. Obd-1 is more ideal than obd-2 anyway. Being a 99 model it will also have a hydro operated clutch so unless you want to buy the extra hydro to cable conversion kit you'll want a hydro tranny. Those are found in 94+ integras, 99-00 SI and the del sol vtec. As far as mount kits I don't know what to tell you there I'm unsure of why a 96-98 kit is different from a 99-00.
Being a 99 model the car is obd-2. For it to be a more direct and possibly more legal swap you'll need one from a 99-00 civic SI. If your local laws do not require that you use an engine newer than your car then you can go with an engine from an integra, a del sol vtec or an sir-2. Obd-1 is more ideal than obd-2 anyway. Being a 99 model it will also have a hydro operated clutch so unless you want to buy the extra hydro to cable conversion kit you'll want a hydro tranny. Those are found in 94+ integras, 99-00 SI and the del sol vtec. As far as mount kits I don't know what to tell you there I'm unsure of why a 96-98 kit is different from a 99-00.
- 8,480
- P_Balance
I mean when I was looking up flywheels for the d16 engine, they said 96-01 (except 99 and si) I understand the SI has a B16, but why can't I get the same flywheel as the other d16's?
SO basically for the most hassle free install job I should find a 99-01 Si engine?
EDIT: So if I don't get an Si engine, then the next easiest thing would be a B16A Gen-2 OBD1 w/ hydraulic clutch, and preferrebly LSD.
What kind of LSD is it though, if it's a viscous LSD, then I'll just skip that. Viscous LSDs suck.
- 5,428
- Midship_Express
I'm know next to nothing about obd-2 honestly so I can't really say what is best other than swapping to obd-1.
About the flywheel, a lot of times adds in parts catalogs are written by people that don't actually know wtf they are talking about. I dunno if this is the case but it often times is.
On a side note, I found a new top speed today. When I first got my car it wouldn't push past about 115-118. Today it was able to find 125. I was very happy to see this.
About the flywheel, a lot of times adds in parts catalogs are written by people that don't actually know wtf they are talking about. I dunno if this is the case but it often times is.
On a side note, I found a new top speed today. When I first got my car it wouldn't push past about 115-118. Today it was able to find 125. I was very happy to see this.
- 5,833
- Right behind you
- SRV2NV
Thats usually the case when shopping on Ebay aswell, so if you plan on doing any online shopping, make sure they have an exchange policy in case you order the wrong part.
Keef
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No PB, I'm not giving you my B16A2 and transmission. No.
But why do you desire a B16? I know I'm being a hypocrite because I can't afford to build a B18, but I personally would save money longer to be able to afford the more powerful engine. My Del Sol isn't that quick.
By the way, we learned a new bit of information about the One Dollar CRX. It's an Si. We thought it was a base model, since it has the D15B2 and no Si stickers anywhere. I was told by a Honda guru buddy that if it has a sunroof (it does), and a tach (again, it does) it's probably an Si. I wasn't sure if I believed him, but he also told me Si models had rear disc brakes. That's one thing we hadn't payed any attention to. Later that night we found it does have discs, so lo and behold, it's an Si.
Our theory is that the original D16Y8 died, and the original owner--the cheap bastard he is--replaced it with an inexpensive, crappy, slow D15B2. What a loser.
Speaking of engines, do you guys think a D16Y8 with 100,000 miles for $300 is a steal or a death trap? The price is like OMG! but the miles are like O. M. G.
But why do you desire a B16? I know I'm being a hypocrite because I can't afford to build a B18, but I personally would save money longer to be able to afford the more powerful engine. My Del Sol isn't that quick.
By the way, we learned a new bit of information about the One Dollar CRX. It's an Si. We thought it was a base model, since it has the D15B2 and no Si stickers anywhere. I was told by a Honda guru buddy that if it has a sunroof (it does), and a tach (again, it does) it's probably an Si. I wasn't sure if I believed him, but he also told me Si models had rear disc brakes. That's one thing we hadn't payed any attention to. Later that night we found it does have discs, so lo and behold, it's an Si.
Our theory is that the original D16Y8 died, and the original owner--the cheap bastard he is--replaced it with an inexpensive, crappy, slow D15B2. What a loser.
Speaking of engines, do you guys think a D16Y8 with 100,000 miles for $300 is a steal or a death trap? The price is like OMG! but the miles are like O. M. G.
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- Midship_Express
The easiest way to tell what model it is is by the vin. The ED8 is a base/hf crx. If its not an ED8 then yes its an SI. Having a tach means nothing as some DXs had them as I have seen. Other tell tell things are that the SI was only ever sold with a manual. A sun roof would may have been offered on an auto DX so that alone means nothing.
The correct engine to find in a crx SI would be a D16A6. I'm not sure why anyone would bother swapping to DPFI from MPFI even if they were putting a D15B2 in as it would be easier to swap the intake manifold onto the D15B2 and go.
That is an ok price for such an engine. If it really does have just 100k on it then I'd say its actually a bit low. The D16Y8 is the engine found in the 96+ EX btw.
The correct engine to find in a crx SI would be a D16A6. I'm not sure why anyone would bother swapping to DPFI from MPFI even if they were putting a D15B2 in as it would be easier to swap the intake manifold onto the D15B2 and go.
That is an ok price for such an engine. If it really does have just 100k on it then I'd say its actually a bit low. The D16Y8 is the engine found in the 96+ EX btw.
Keef
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Okay, I wasn't sure what engine the CRX Si had, but I knew it was a D16 with SOHC VTEC. Thanks for the info. I'll look at the VIN soon just to make sure.
At the moment the D15B2 has 190,000 miles on it and burns oil profusely. We could get in there and replace the oil rings, but we haven't decided if the engine is worth saving since its so old and weak. We have yet to go inspect the D16Y8, and though it only makes about 125 hp it seems a bargain for the price. We could easily do a basic buildup for a mild turbo, then the thing would be quicker than my Sol.
By the way, the guy says he's already converted the D16Y8 from OBD2 to OBD0. We aren't sure why, or what else he's done to the engine, and that's why we want to go inspect it thoroughly.
At the moment the D15B2 has 190,000 miles on it and burns oil profusely. We could get in there and replace the oil rings, but we haven't decided if the engine is worth saving since its so old and weak. We have yet to go inspect the D16Y8, and though it only makes about 125 hp it seems a bargain for the price. We could easily do a basic buildup for a mild turbo, then the thing would be quicker than my Sol.
By the way, the guy says he's already converted the D16Y8 from OBD2 to OBD0. We aren't sure why, or what else he's done to the engine, and that's why we want to go inspect it thoroughly.
- 5,428
- Midship_Express
if he converted it to obd0 if was intending to put it into an EF however you will need an RPM switch for vtec. Obd1 is better but takes a bit more wiring on the chassis that some people like.
The engine in your crx isn't vtec if its a stock D15B2. Check the engine code located on the block. Open the hood and while looking at the engine from the front of the car look to the left of the header. There will be a flat spot slightly angled up about an inch by an inch. That is where the code is stamped.
If its a D15B2 it is a 1.5l sohc non-vtec. If its a D16A6 which is what was in the SI it is a sohc 1.6l. The differences are the intake manifold, throttle body, intake, cam and ports.
The D15B2 is rated at 92hp. The D16A6 is rated at 106hp. The D16Y8 is rated at 128hp. The D16Z6 which was found in the 92-95 civic EX/SI is rated at 125hp.
The D series are pretty good motors.
The engine in your crx isn't vtec if its a stock D15B2. Check the engine code located on the block. Open the hood and while looking at the engine from the front of the car look to the left of the header. There will be a flat spot slightly angled up about an inch by an inch. That is where the code is stamped.
If its a D15B2 it is a 1.5l sohc non-vtec. If its a D16A6 which is what was in the SI it is a sohc 1.6l. The differences are the intake manifold, throttle body, intake, cam and ports.
The D15B2 is rated at 92hp. The D16A6 is rated at 106hp. The D16Y8 is rated at 128hp. The D16Z6 which was found in the 92-95 civic EX/SI is rated at 125hp.
The D series are pretty good motors.
- 8,480
- P_Balance
I only want a little over 200hp. Getting a B16 means cheaper and more room to build. If I get an B18, all I need is some itbs and a full exhuast, and I have 200hp. Not much fun IMO. With the B16, I need more tuning to get to 200hp, and because of that, I'll learn more about engines along the way.
Mainly just a learning experience, along with saving some fuel money along the way.
EDIT: How about you buy a B18, and sell me your b16 for 1500. That way you only need another 1500 for the B18. My friend saved up that much in a couple months at his part time, $6.50 an hour job, and he pays for his own insurance and gas. I think you can handle that much.
:tup:
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Hell no! What kind of B18 are you talking about, anyway? B18A/B, B18C1 (GS-R), B18C5 (ITR)? Unless you're considering an ITR engine, doing that won't get you 200hp. Are you talking about whp or bhp, too? Because 200whp out of a B16A is nigh on impossible, unless you're willing to spend 15k on it.
ITB's by themselves give no more power, they just get you better throttle response, just like gravy by itself doesn't give you a hot chicken sandwich, you need all the other ingredients. We're talking higher compression pistons, forged rods, then you have to make sure the block will be strong enough, so that means custom sleeves, then it's time for some better cams, sturdier valvetrain, porting and polishing, bigger injectors, an ECU capable of supporting all that stuff, then a header and exhaust, not to mention finding fuel that's got enough octane to make sure the engine doesn't self destruct... ITB's are highly overrated for street use anyway, you're better off with just an intake and a bigger throttle body. It's not as easy as it seems, there's actually a lot of work to do. Just sticking an exhaust, header and intake won't give you 20hp... this isn't Gran Turismo, it's real life.
Keef
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I'm positive it's a D15B2 in there now. And we've already had the valve cover off to see how grimy it was, and it's surprisingly clean. No buildup at all, even on the inside of the valve cover. There's a bit of valve lash which we'll fix soon once my buddy remembers to bring his feeler gauge and have a fiddle with it. Also, there's a misfire in either the number 2 or 3 cylinder. It's the second over from the belts.
It's also nice to know that the D16Y8 we could buy makes more power than the stock Si motor! My cuz will probably buy it right away once he hears that.
- 8,480
- P_Balance
In "real life" the Spoon headers on a Integra give almost 20hp. With a high flow cat and a full catback exhaust, your looking at another 10hp at least. A good intake with some kind of power chamber also gives another 5hp or so.
If Honda can get 7hp from torquing the bolts on the b18 head, freeing up power isn't that hard.
If you mean to tell me a high quality full exhaust system mated with a bigger intake manifold and a high quality intake won't get you a measly 20whp, the parts you've had experiences with are really bad quality.
EDIT: Have you not seen thousands of various articles in magazines where they slap an intake on a car and then put pics of the dyno sheets showing a 5hp increase? You make it sound impossible, which it isn't.
- 5,428
- Midship_Express
- 25,140
- Somewhere.
You can make a dyno say anything, you know... it's a machine, after all.
Now. Let's say you decide to run something like a Skunk2 ProSeries manifold, coupled to a 3" intake (say, J's or PasswordJDM whalepenis style), SMSP/Hytech/Whicheveristhehotonethesedays header, 2.5" exhaust from the header to the muffler, with as little bends as possible to make sure there's no bottleneck... Let's forget the DC Sports/Ebay junk, because those are well, junk. I'm quite confident you will get 20whp from those mods. I'm also quite confident you'll get pulled over pretty much every single day because of how noisy the thing will be, and I'm also quite confident we're looking at around 2000$ in parts alone, if not more. A set of TWM 2000Series ITB's run 2k alone, and you haven't started with the bottom end nor the head, and the thing isn't tuned either.
I don't think it's worth spending what you paid for the car, on top of the price of the engine swap, just to gain 20hp...
If you feel like spending that kind of money, go with forced induction... Which is what I'm doing this summer.
- 8,480
- P_Balance
So I guess all magazines just lie for the heck of it, and love to give people false dreams. I understand the manufacturer might post a fake number, but otherwise there is nothing to gain.
That's quite a big difference from the 15k you said before...-Fred-
If you think about it that way, you end up like the ricers who buy cheap parts because "it's not worth spending more money when you can get it cheaper."-Fred-
Which is a really "American" (no offense) attitude towards tuning, the "Eh, just slap a turbo on it" attitude, I'm sure you know what I'm talking about, judging how much turboed AE86's, Civics, and Integras there is here.-Fred-
It's just that I'd rather have a high revving, responsive DOHC v-tec engine than a 300hp turbocharged FF car. I don't know why you don't, considering you had an S2000 for a while.
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For anyone interested...
Import Alliance meet 2007
Nashville, TN
United States' largest Import car gathering. No domestics will be permitted on the premises.
Import Alliance meet 2007
Nashville, TN
United States' largest Import car gathering. No domestics will be permitted on the premises.
- 7,965
That's nice.
Sorry if I don't seem to understand why you posted. It seems rather irrelevant.
- 20,145
- Australia
- VIPERGTS01
Just that I notice most of these import shows are full of Honda's in the US and thats the opposite to import shows over here, an observation, you don't like it... tuff.
Not to mention this is a Honda thread... and I was on the topic of Honda's.
- 7,965
Well, that may be because we get a rather large quantity of Honda's over here. Couldn't tell you, because I really don't know the reason. I just don't see how it matters. They're great cars, and to the people that like them, they're fun to work on.
Keef
Premium
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- Dayton, OH
- GTP_KeefRacer
- GTP Keef
I believe I've made a few mistakes in my diagnosis of the CRX's problems. The first mistake I made was neglecting to check the engine number.
Anyway, after soem engine confusion, some VIN number confusion, and finding out that there are 8 CARFAX reports for the damn thing, every problem has been solved.
Right engine (D16A6), right VIN (ED9), right car (1990 Honda Civic CRX Si). Man, the drama I had caused. And I thought we had a Frankenmobile...
But I think my cuz is digging the idea of buying the Y8. The guy who has it is a big Honda guru, and he said he'd even show us how to intall it, or just do it himself. Usually a gain of 22 engine hp for $300 is a good deal, expecially when it opens windows to lots more hp.
Anyway, after soem engine confusion, some VIN number confusion, and finding out that there are 8 CARFAX reports for the damn thing, every problem has been solved.
Right engine (D16A6), right VIN (ED9), right car (1990 Honda Civic CRX Si). Man, the drama I had caused. And I thought we had a Frankenmobile...
But I think my cuz is digging the idea of buying the Y8. The guy who has it is a big Honda guru, and he said he'd even show us how to intall it, or just do it himself. Usually a gain of 22 engine hp for $300 is a good deal, expecially when it opens windows to lots more hp.
- 5,428
- Midship_Express
The D16A6 is a good motor. If it wasn't burning oil I'd suggest keeping it.
