Honda Fan Club - under new management

  • Thread starter THE ED3
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But if you read the maths I did above you will see that the difference between the stock and current wheels is only 0.6%, not 5.7%. (did you even read my post at all except the end part?)

Remember when Skip figured out 5.7% size increase he did not know the aspect ratio of the 185's so he assumed it being the same as the 175's, I asked for the sizes and it wasn't the same.

Dont worry about keef, he drives a del sol. :crazy:

:sly: lol.
 
But if you read the maths I did above you will see that the difference between the stock and current wheels is only 0.6%, not 5.7%. (did you even read my post at all except the end part?)

Remember when Skip figured out 5.7% size increase he did not know the aspect ratio of the 185's so he assumed it being the same as the 175's, I asked for the sizes and it wasn't the same.

So, we both know what we're talking about, but something is still wrong. I think the problem is this: If Time Attack would have had the same diameter tires on now as he did before we would have never had this quarrel. Let's get him!
 
Hey, 131 isn't that much faster than 125, but I can get there a bit quicker than you can...:lol: Besides, I'm only poking fun at Jordan from Ohio. As in I'm from Ohio but he's from Kentuckeh.
 
If we had a weirdo accent you would. But we don't. People from North Carolina like to say Ahia, but that's because they're Appalachian American.
 
So, we both know what we're talking about, but something is still wrong. I think the problem is this: If Time Attack would have had the same diameter tires on now as he did before we would have never had this quarrel. Let's get him!

Whatever the reason for the speed difference (like I said maybe his speedo needs recalibration) in theory the total wheel diameter is only 0.6% difference.
 
Ahh why didn't you say so, you must have added a VTEC sticker.... or NOS Sticker which is it. or maybe painted some engine parts?


:P
 
Maybe V-TECH KICKED IN YO. Or maybe you drank one of those NOS energy drinks before driving. Did you put any octane booster in the thing? I know the NOS racing formula at least makes my car gargle and pop more. The can is like 5 points for 16 gallons, but I only have 12. On top of that, I only fill my tank halfway. That's some JDM Lightweight Power right there.
 
Eighty-seven, eh? Well, try what my buddy did with his old Geo Metro: Crank the timing to about 21 degrees advanced. That'll fix 'er up. That little 60 hp 1 liter was seriously making more like 80 when we ran it like that. Of course, it didn't even last 10,000 miles until the engine burned up. The spark plugs where white like cocaine. That and a few other unforunate problems at unfortunate times (we nearly got stranded in North Carolina, and yes, we drove the thing to North Carolina) meant the end of the engine. It was officially dead.

But who cares if it died, because it was cheap and it'd run with 120 hp Saturn sedans and Dodge Neons. The little thing was a killer!
 
Time Attack - Maybe you had the windows up this time, and with the colder weather, added some hp that way. Then, along with the different wheels, you were able to hit those speeds.

Mclaren Man - Nice! What springs did you end up going with?
 
I came across some lovells (aussie made) for a good price, $200AU. Other preludes like mine have them and it makes the car sit nice and level at about 30-35mm (1.5") lower. Just waiting on a friend of mine to let me borrow his spring compressors.
 
Did you get new shocks with the springs? I've seen quite a few cars who's stock dampers are too soft for the aftermarket springs and the car just bounces and jolts all over the place. I refused to buy only springs for my old car, and it was a freaking Cavalier!
 
Some springs you can get away with keeping your stock stocks/struts depending on the bound/rebound of the springs. For example, going with an Eibach Pro kit will allow you to keep the stock shocks, but going to the Sportline (only a half inch more in drop in some cases) will not. Also depends on the application as your old Cavalier is not going to have the same stock suspension setup as a Prelude of the same year.
 
Every little bit of money you spend puts you that much farther away from real quality coilovers.

explain to me why I need coilovers for driving to and from work with the occasional run through the local hills? even if I pay another $500-600 for dampers I will still be about $1200 ahead then buying a set of coilovers. So basically they're to stiff and expensive for my needs. Plus my current suspension setup is pretty well coilovers any way, just non adjustable which I dont need anyway its not like Im lapping the nurburgring or anything.

sussyout.jpg
 
explain to me why I need coilovers for driving to and from work with the occasional run through the local hills?
Right after you explain to me why you need lowering springs and struts for driving to and from work with the occasional run through the local hills.

Just seems like a waste of money IMO. Each to his own I guess.
 
Because I want better handling when I do go through the hills, but dont want to get thrown around on the crappy roads we have in oz when im driving daily. seriously coilovers for my car would be $2k+ (the only brand thats available for my car is hotbits) with new shockers and springs I can get it all done for well under $1K with results that tailor more to my needs. Spending the most isnt always the best case.

And as for a waste of money? im saving money by not getting coilovers dude. . . .
 
Because I want better handling when I do go through the hills, but dont want to get thrown around on the crappy roads we have in oz when im driving daily. seriously coilovers for my car would be $2k+ (the only brand thats available for my car is hotbits) with new shockers and springs I can get it all done for well under $1K with results that tailor more to my needs. Spending the most isnt always the best case.

And as for a waste of money? im saving money by not getting coilovers dude. . . .
That doesn't say why you need them, its just why you want them, so either way, you don't need springs, and you don't need coilovers.

As for saving money, might as well cut your springs, that way you can save even MORE money.

Here's how I see it. If you can buy a Ferarri for 10k or another crappy car for 5k, are you going to say you saved 5k if you buy the crappy one? Not really. It depends on what you are getting out of it. If you spend under 1k you end up with springs and struts, but if you spend over 2k, you end up with a race quality coilover that will last and perform a lot better, your car will also become a lot better, and you can fully adjust it to your needs. You can buy softer springs. So which one is better then?

I drove for an hour or so in a car with 10kg front springs and 8kg rear. That's very stiff, but just because it was a high quality suspension, it didn't feel very stiff or bumpy at all.

What about something like a cheap bodykit. Sure, you might have saved a couple hundred bucks, but you end up with exactly that, a cheap bodykit.


Basically, you get what you pay for, and there's no way around that.

EDIT: In the end, I'm sure you will have a car that became a lot more fun to drive, but I'm just really against taking the cheap route when it comes to tuning cars.
 
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