Hot Wheels and Matchbox Customizing Thread

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You know what you can do, Jason? Copy that livery onto other American cars. That's be a cool idea. Kinda.
 
Anyway, I got this green polishing compound and it ain't polishing my plastic. I dipped the felt tip and ran the dremel in there and all it did was smear the surface. Maybe I need to buff it after I'm guessing. Anybody got a clue?

What sort of polishing compound is it?
It could be too rough for the plastic.
 
Wow that Camaro is very very clean. Good job. I love the sway bar! Wow! Good job on the side exit exhaust I know that wasn't easy. I don't post too much on here because of all the rules and standard but there are some very talented people here. This is the clear I use
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Clear for car. Ah. 👍 I might have to consider getting that too. Acrylic clear just ain't doing it.

What sort of polishing compound is it?
It could be too rough for the plastic.

It don't say. It came with a dremel accessory kit by Mastercraft. Before you ask, I didn't buy it. I use a lot of dad's tools :lol:

Maybe it sat for too long? It's green and crumbles.
 
Okey question guys, but I just got through printing some decals on decal paper. If I got it right, am I supposed to wait for ink to dry then apply the bonder spray?
 
It's dry by now, add a clear layer of protective what-you-got. We just use clear paint, unsure what you're speaking of.
 
It don't say. It came with a dremel accessory kit by Mastercraft. Before you ask, I didn't buy it. I use a lot of dad's tools :lol:

Maybe it sat for too long? It's green and crumbles.

I have that too and never really found a use of it. Throw it in the bin and get some good model car polish or as a very good alternative just regular car polish seems to work great.
 
regular car polish works great.

Yup.

Also, when detailing, if you mess up, grab a biiiiit of polish a toothpick and "erase" the offending paint, it'll go away easily and with the toothpick you have good control over what you're deleting. Tip courtesy of Ahmed and widely used by me because horrible pulse.
 
Yup.

Also, when detailing, if you mess up, grab a biiiiit of polish a toothpick and "erase" the offending paint, it'll go away easily and with the toothpick you have good control over what you're deleting. Tip courtesy of Ahmed and widely used by me because horrible pulse.

Yes that works fine for me, Its very simple and you never damage the paint, It also works fine to get rid of those horrible hotwheels tampos
 
I will, and I might as well wax my car while I'm at it.
It should be the other way around. :lol:
 
If I haven't already been meaning to wax my car in the last two weeks to begin with, you'd probably be right. :lol:
 
It's dry by now, add a clear layer of protective what-you-got. We just use clear paint, unsure what you're speaking of.
Im using this. Im currently working a Combat Medic and it is nearly done, just got to apply the decals. ;)


Got the decals sprayed with the bonder spray. Now the instructions say for me to dip it in clear water for no more than 5 seconds and then set it on a paper towel so the adhesive backing softens.

My questions is, does it have to be cold or warm water and how long does it take for the adhesive backing to soften? (It doesn't tell)
 
Im using this. Im currently working a Combat Medic and it is nearly done, just got to apply the decals. ;)


Got the decals sprayed with the bonder spray. Now the instructions say for me to dip it in clear water for no more than 5 seconds and then set it on a paper towel so the adhesive backing softens.

My questions is, does it have to be cold or warm water and how long does it take for the adhesive backing to soften? (It doesn't tell)


Dont put them in a paper towel. Leave them in the water (at ambient temperature, it doesn't matter) until they literally separate from the backing and start floating all by themselves. Then grab them crefully with a toothpick and place them. If you missplace them and they're starting to dry, simply grab a droplet of water with your finger and rub it over it. The water will get under it and it'll move again.
 
Got the decals sprayed with the bonder spray. Now the instructions say for me to dip it in clear water for no more than 5 seconds and then set it on a paper towel so the adhesive backing softens.

Should get Expert-film Decals next time. They wrote all the instructions.

Use tweezers if you can because it'll make your life easier unless you got super long fingernails. Decals are tricky and sticky. Don't use warm water because the ink is going to dissolve. Ice cold doesn't help anything. Room temperature is just right.

Dip it in water, wiggle it gently a few times. Give if a few seconds for the water to permeate the back paper. Wiggling helps separate the decal from the backing. I'm right-handed so I've got the tweezers in my right hand. What I do is put down the tweezers, and try to break the decal free from the backing with my left index and thumb by tugging it out. Once it does, I pull the decal outward just a bit, enough so that the back paper is completely exposed on the right side. Then I grab that end with the tweezers and get ready to lay the decal on. Position the car however way is most comfortable for you to lay the decal down. If you're putting down decals on the side, put the car on its side so that surface is facing up. What to do next is to find the desired location, with your left finger/thumb, hold the decal down on the side that's exposed, and then pull the back-paper out from underneath. Reposition as necessary.

Other tips: Wet the surface with a bit of water so the decal can slide around easily when you're correcting its position. You can do this by simply dabbing the spot with your finger.

Another thing is to not touch it once you're done with it. Let it sit on its own for about 5 minutes. I accidentally peeled off a decal on the right door panel of the Espirit when I was working on the left side.

Once you're done, clear coat that with 3 to 4 layers.
 
During a late-night Street Fighter session, I finished a quick wheelswap previously on queue.

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Yeah you bet I slammed that baby to the floor.


Okay not really but I did lower it to the point where I had to shave down the chassis's underside. Would've kept going but the rear tires were already bottoming out. Ground clearance is about 2mm.



Real pics tomorrow.
 
Thanks for the info on the decals guys! 👍 Pretty easy to do. 👍 However when I printed the decals on decal paper, it came out kind of "cracked", the ink bonded just fine but there were cracks when it printed. Is this normal?

Love that Mustang McZachen! :) 👍 very nice! ;) Is it just me, but does it look like the body is leaning on one side?
 
Uck, I can't see tyhe pics of your '55 Andy. I'll check it out at home. As for the Mustang, awesome 👍 I want one to do precisely that myself.

EDIT:

Thanks for the info on the decals guys! 👍 Pretty easy to do. 👍 However when I printed the decals on decal paper, it came out kind of "cracked", the ink bonded just fine but there were cracks when it printed. Is this normal?

Not normal. Try to print in a laser printer next time.
 
Thanks for the info on the decals guys! 👍 Pretty easy to do. 👍 However when I printed the decals on decal paper, it came out kind of "cracked", the ink bonded just fine but there were cracks when it printed. Is this normal?

Bad finish. Jason had a similar issue as well. I never did though.

Did it start producing that look after you put it in water or when you let it sit after application? It's also possible that you may have stretched the decal when correcting its position. Stretching can happen if it's starting to dry and you're still trying to reposition it. I screwed up my first dragon decal like that.
 
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