Hot Wheels and Matchbox Customizing Thread

[Emmcee]

Mate if you had big hands like me, you'll find it hard to type correctly on a bloody iPhone, that has severe lag when replying.

 

[Avalonbug]

I know the problem, haha. And I'm only in highschool. Oh lord.

 

[Emmcee]

Made for mini me fingers lol.

 

[Avalonbug]

Do you have the 6?

 

[Emmcee]

Nah the 5, due for upgrade in a few months, might get one then or even concidering a switch to the "dark side" Samsung.

 

[R5]

Nah the 5, due for upgrade in a few months, might get one then or even concidering a switch to the "dark side" Samsung.

Id say that Apple is the dark side. And that is biased, but that's only because I actually own both an iPad and iPhone. Switching to Samsung later this year.

Nah the 5, due for upgrade in a few months, might get one then or even concidering a switch to the "dark side" Samsung.

Id say that Apple is the dark side. And that is biased, but that's only because I actually own both an iPad and iPhone. Switching to Samsung later this year.

Here's a second one I'm making. The M3 wasn't doing it for me.

The one thing I plan on improving from the last container I made is to have the base snap into place, hold, and be able to come apart easily. Biggest problem with these projects is that I have to find cars whose rear axle width is wide enough to fit the keys, and figuring out a way for the base to hold onto the body easily. I was thinking of magnets, but I'll have to look up whether that will hurt my phone or not, because they go in the same pocket.


Another really cool thing I did was shave down my keys and didn't have to split any axle apart.

How did I miss this? That's pretty damn great

 

[cfun]

Absolutly, forces you to grow up, even if your not ready. Plus you become a victim of government propaganda.

I'm a strong believer of the theory that: Getting old is mandatory, growing up is optional.

 

[Emmcee]

I'm a strong believer of the theory that: Getting old is mandatory, growing up is optional.

Well said mate, couldn't agree more.

 

[AOS-]

Time to get more inspiration. By inspiration, I mean finding new reasons to level up your game, not "copy" what you just saw.

http://www.kyoshocatalogs.com/custom-kyosho.html

 

[Cano]

Time to get more inspiration. By inspiration, I mean finding new reasons to level up your game, not "copy" what you just saw.

http://www.kyoshocatalogs.com/custom-kyosho.html

Welcome to two years ago or so. I'd really like to have means to print in white.

EDIT: Now that I think abotu it, I wishI had the money to customize Kyoshos/Aoshimas and stuff.

 

[AOS-]

You do. Just stop buying so many Hot Wheels.

 

[cfun]

Quick question - has anyone used JammyDog micro masking tape? I'm wanting to do a set of stripes with a thin seperation between them. Had thought about masking off, then applying maskol (latex) to form the center seperator, and then masking as usual the outside edges, but wonder if micro masking tape would be an easier solution.

Thoughts?

 

[CodeRedR51]

GreenLight fox body Mustangs with Hot Wheels premium rollers:

Not bad.

 

[yabiggoose]

@R1600Turbo were they an easy fit?

They look great.

 

[CodeRedR51]

@R1600Turbo were they an easy fit?

They look great.

Not mine, stole the pic off HWC.

 

[CodeRedR51]

Double post because awesome.

http://www.speedhunters.com/2014/10...l&utm_source=facebook.com&utm_campaign=buffer

 

[Cano]

Double post because awesome.

http://www.speedhunters.com/2014/10...l&utm_source=facebook.com&utm_campaign=buffer

some of those are pretty awesome. Too much rust for my taste, but that Malco GTO is bad-ass.

 

[cfun]

Just wanting to check something, when detailing a car you've painted, do you do the details then clear coat it, or clear coat the paint and then detail (+another clear?)

Ta!

 

[AOS-]

Depends on what sorts of details I'm adding. If it's meant ot have a gloss look, then I'll do the clear after. Otherwise, I do all body paint, and do the details last.

 

[cfun]

Thanks @AOS-, and what paint do you use? I've used Tamiya acrylics for the body and will be using the 'Klear' Floor polish for the clear coat, but the paints I have in the colours for detailing are Enamal. If I detail, then clear is the enamel going to react with the Klear? Or should I just go and buy some more acrylics in the colours for detailing?

Here are a couple of WIP's that are requiring the details...


Bought some micro masking tape and am really please with how these racing stripes came out. Considering they were eye-balled its close enough to centre.


Datsun pickup (was red)


Feedback welcome!

Thanks!

 

[Emmcee]

Dato ute looks sick in that canary yellow. What type of paint is it? I find it hard to find a yellow that goes on nice and even without requiring to many coats. Same with a red. It's like there is no body in the paint and when it dries I can sorta see through it if you know what I mean. By the time I get the desired color and look, it has gone on to thick.

 

[cfun]

Dato ute looks sick in that canary yellow. What type of paint is it? I find it hard to find a yellow that goes on nice and even without requiring to many coats. Same with a red. It's like there is no body in the paint and when it dries I can sorta see through it if you know what I mean. By the time I get the desired color and look, it has gone on to thick.

Thanks @Emmcee . I used Tamiya X-8 'Lemon Yellow' for that. Halfords white Primer with not a particularly thick coating for the base. It has a bit of 'orange peel' effect, but I think I can live with it as I'm still new to this. I didn't rub down the primer which I will try next time using an old tooth brush. I'm really pleased with the colour and finish though over all as I had read that the Tamiya gloss Red & Yellow were difficult to get down nicely. To be honest this was a bit of a rush job. All sprayed in one sitting with probably no more than 30 seconds between coats. Just for reference I mixed 1.5ml paint : 1ml IPA (I'm keeping notes on what I mix and what I paint so I can refer back to what works and what doesn't). I've still got some black pre-mixed that I'm going to paint the 'bed' with.

 

[Emmcee]

Spray gun? Iam only using the old spray can method. Strip paint. Primer and then spray color. I usually get an awesome finish but I can't find an actual brand that gives me a good finish with gloss red and yellow.

 

[cfun]

Yeh I'm just using a cheap dual action airbrush & compressor kit off eBay. I can imagine that the cans put out a lot of paint pretty quickly!

 

[Emmcee]

Ive got a pretty good technique going but it's mainly trial and error till you find specific brands that do the job better than others.

 

[cfun]

I've heard that some have better, more "professional" nozzles so could try finding one that sprays nice and keep the nozzle from that to try on one of the less desirable ones.

 

[Cano]

Ive got a pretty good technique going but it's mainly trial and error till you find specific brands that do the job better than others.

I've heard that some have better, more "professional" nozzles so could try finding one that sprays nice and keep the nozzle from that to try on one of the less desirable ones.

After all the chit-chatter about spray can paints, usually the ones designed from the get-go for the model-building market have a much better quality and "body", stick better, and have much better nozzles than cheapo Wal Mart spray cans. They cost a lot more but in the end it's worth it.

 

[cfun]

After all the chit-chatter about spray can paints, usually the ones designed from the get-go for the model-building market have a much better quality and "body", stick better, and have much better nozzles than cheapo Wal Mart spray cans. They cost a lot more but in the end it's worth it.

Model building specific, I have no doubt. My comment was aimed at the "full size" car paint cans. Going back a few years now, but I got some mixed paint up and they supplied it in a "professional" can, and the nozzle was clearly different from the generic spray nozzles you get on paint/airfreshener/bug killer etc.

 

[AOS-]

Thanks @AOS-, and what paint do you use? I've used Tamiya acrylics for the body and will be using the 'Klear' Floor polish for the clear coat, but the paints I have in the colours for detailing are Enamal. If I detail, then clear is the enamel going to react with the Klear? Or should I just go and buy some more acrylics in the colours for detailing?

I don't know about that Floor polish personally. What I do know is that I can't use an acrylic clear over an enamel finish. Experiment with what you got.

As for what paints I use. Often times it's acrylics or enamels. Other times, it's nail enamels and lacquers with thinner.

 

[cfun]

I don't know about that Floor polish personally. What I do know is that I can't use an acrylic clear over an enamel finish. Experiment with what you got.

As for what paints I use. Often times it's acrylics or enamels. Other times, it's nail enamels and lacquers with thinner.

I did some more searching this morning and generally what I found was if you cure the paint long enough then you can mix whatever you like. So now, its all about finding cure time! lol

Addition: Ok so I'm starting to do some details, and I've had 1 or 2 slips, so whats the best way of clearing these when the surface is already painted?

Edit: Had a busy weekend with the detailing and finally got the Sussex Police Monster Truck finished for my Son :-)