Hot Wheels and Matchbox Customizing Thread

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Here's a VW Caddy custom I did, just a simple repaint and detail. I like the way it turned out though. I have a Charger in the works which I'll post later.
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Here is some of the detailing I've done. Thoughts on how I can improve?

Some sort of Dodge Pickup (Headlights, indicators, bumper holes and grill, tail lights, wing mirrors, 'Lightyear' Wheels, chassis details, interior stripes to match exterior, steering wheel removed to be reattached straight and Dashboard)

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Honda NSX Racer (Headlights, bonnet vents, tail lights, fuel filler, exhausts, air vent)

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The Lemon Yellow Datsun Pickup (Head lights and silver surround, tail lights, wing mirrors, DATSUN sign on bed door, bed door locks, Wheel arch screws, yellow harnesses and silver buckles, yellow steering wheel and gear knob, chassis details)

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Hi guys im new to the customising world I found this mustang recently and recon I need to just do a wheel change and touch up the paint but need help as to how to touch uo the paint thanks.
 

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Is this what you call a restoration?

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Had the first editions Land Rover come in all beaten up and I wanted to take a stab at replicating that metalflake green.

So I kept the body aside, painted a different casting with nail polish, kept the original windshield, interior and base. I only got my hands on a set of better condition sawblade wheels just now.
 
that Bat thing WINS. I'm looking at this and still can't figure out where they got the parts from.

Yes, given the fantasy profile of the guest designer, Ahmed and I were betting on it to win because it was incredibly well crafted and had a great concept. If I remember correctly from what the builder told us, the parts all came from 100% Batman sets and the ship is from a 1:43-esque Batman series HW did a while ago.
 
It's not difficult depending on the quality of decal paper you use. I suggest you start with laser printing because they don't require varnish protection.
I imagine it's easy, perhaps I need to consider finding new methods of applying decals. Cano recommended laser printing to me a while back but unfortunately the only laser printer I know isn't in color. :crazy:
 
Noooooooo, go to Office Depot and have them printed there! That's what we do. A buck will net you a top quality tampo.
Oh I thought you where suggesting getting a laser jet printer, my bad.

Thanks for the info, I will consider that for sure! 👍 Pity the Office Depot in my area closed. Are there any other places that do this and do they print in white ink?
 
White ink is not conventional stuff, so no. You can also print at Staples, or if you are able to get access to it from someone older, Costco.
 
do they print in white ink?

White printing requires a special type of printer called Alps, which was made in Japan and discontinued several years ago, and the supplies of white ink is very limited... or a full-on industrial printer that costs about 40k. That is why getting white clear tampos is very, very difficult
 
That's almost spot on, Andy 👍

Anyway, aftear bearing with life for almost two weeks, we were finally able to post the coverage fo the most extreme class at the convention's contest. Clickety-click for Wild:

http://www.customdiecastmexico.com/2014/10/concurso-de-customs-7a-convencion-hw_22.html
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So much awesome there. :drool:


Resprayed my 'Niscort' with a lighter shade of orange (Tamiya TS12). I was going to lay down some white first but decided i wanted something in-between the two shades. The coverage/opacity of lighter orange over darker orange was actually quite good. (hopefully post a pic tomorrow).
 
I got the bulbs and the switch for it many months ago, back when I had under ten cars to do rather than the current 20 or so, but I've lost motivation to finish, let alone start.
 
Niscort respray:




It may look like there's no real difference from the previous pics i shared of this, but the last pics i shared were colour adjusted and shot under yellow light. These were shot in mid-day/early evening natural light, and have not been colour adjusted in photoshop. It's not quite the orange i was trying to achieve, but i feel it's close enough to the 'Ford Sebring Red' i was trying to capture, plus before adding the extra coats, i wet sanded the existing paint and now with the new coats it has more of a glossy finish.

All that remains now is some detailing (paint the interior and grill black, add a new rollcage) and finally add some decals, before adding a coat of clear.

[EDIT] Just realised i didn't push the window piece up into the roof, it actually fits better than it appears in the pics^.
 
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To be honest, it could be a lot cleaner. Thing is it's hard to see the imperfections before final paint, especially when using white primer. Maybe a light coat of grey or even red oxide colour primer, before the white primer would have worked better.

Having said that, i'm still fairly pleased with how it's turned out.
Also, sanding with finer grit helps keep it smooth. 👍

*Sanding sticks, i find work the best*
 
Can I post some of my retailer buffs now?

Retailer Buffs: Improvements made to enhance existing releases. I wanted a fancier term for my blog, but in no way am I claiming any rights or patents on such a name.

Let's start.

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source: cobratoys.com


While looking to grab a few more items in one of my previous orders, I picked up this Superfast '57 Fleetwood solely for the purpose of lowering it. Here it is.

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Because of casting restrictions, I wasn't able to lower it much. There's probably at most a 2mm drop. Would've been nice to get it as low as the '57 T-Bird, a car I don't have photos of yet.
 
Because I couldn't sell them, they became RBEs:

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Not very happy with how this looks, but I think that has to do with the casting itself for the most part. It used to have chrome red-lipped black PR5s. Now it's GYblack5SPs. From the side it looks okay, but the stubby axle width always kills lasting appeal with this car.

I will admit I've got some retailer buffs that are pretty lackluster, but it's already made now. :crazy:



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Wheels swapped, lights, grills, coloured base, exhaust tip, the 3 rivets on each side.
 
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