Hot Wheels and Matchbox Customizing Thread
- Thread starter CodeRedR51
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CodeRedR51
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Might just go with a nice medium metallic blue.
CodeRedR51
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Nope, but blue came to mind when Cano mentioned it. My initial idea was to use a color I already have so I didn't have to waste money on paint, but all I have are red, yellow, black, white & gray.
Cano
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If I may be permitted a word. I think the Titan would be a far more accurate modern version of the Nissan Hardbody. Granted, doing one of those involves recreating virtually half the truck (as k me, I'm in the middle of one right now) but it would be much more fitting.
CodeRedR51
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Hardbody is actually the Nissan Frontier, but I wanted to go further back than that so I chose the 620.
Cano
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make a custom, extended cab 620, then :0
CodeRedR51
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I'm already making the Titan normal height with a custom chassis setup, that's enough fabrication on this project.
Cano
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Make the Titan a single cab then, lol.
CodeRedR51
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Negative, truck does not exist.
Cano
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Even better, phantom body! 👍
CodeRedR51
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No.
AOS-
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I'll be working on those Astons soon. But first, let me show you a Stealthy.
Wheelswapped and lowered. It's much more aggressive looking. Th finish is dull and all. My airbrush replacement parts have arrived, but I'll have to wait until next Spring to bust out an airbrush for Tamiya's flat black and clear. That should eliminate all the troubles with the finish.
I can't wait for that. The photos will be even darker. Despite how a darker photo is even harder to make out, the car at least won't look gray.
Wheelswapped and lowered. It's much more aggressive looking. Th finish is dull and all. My airbrush replacement parts have arrived, but I'll have to wait until next Spring to bust out an airbrush for Tamiya's flat black and clear. That should eliminate all the troubles with the finish.
I can't wait for that. The photos will be even darker. Despite how a darker photo is even harder to make out, the car at least won't look gray.
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@Emmcee That has happened to me once or twice before. What I do is take a VERY thin paint brush, and gently re-paint the areas where it chipped. Doing it that way usually makes it look as though nothing happened. But if you didn't go into a whole lot of work, I would just repaint it.
Also: Does anyone have any loose Tomica or Majorrete cars/bodies they might want to sell me? Of course cheap-ish, but if so please message me. Thanks!
Also: Does anyone have any loose Tomica or Majorrete cars/bodies they might want to sell me? Of course cheap-ish, but if so please message me. Thanks!
Cano
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This. if you just re-shot it with a solid color, I say strip the thing off and repaint. This happened to me a while ago but the car that fell from my hands was my red Shelby-Toyota 2000GT race car we did a year ago for the Convention's contest (we did two of each color so each of us could keep the set of two, my red one was the one that fell, Ahmed's is on the picture), complete with livery, so stripping it off was out of the question as quite a lot of work had gone into tampoeing it. So I just patched it up with Tamiya white. It came out pretty well, so I'm leaving it as is. But if it's just a solid color, I'd indeed repaint. Been there done that several times.
AOS-
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That one little strip of white paint laid over the red tampo to create a thin bordering red stripe.... 👍 👍
How much time did you guys put into that one?
Lowered the front, but left the rear. This helps create a lower ground clearance in the front,
which it desperately needed adjustments on.
If I ever go through with an Enzo or FXX, I'll definitely have to get into modifying the fender wells.
How much time did you guys put into that one?
Lowered the front, but left the rear. This helps create a lower ground clearance in the front,
which it desperately needed adjustments on.
If I ever go through with an Enzo or FXX, I'll definitely have to get into modifying the fender wells.
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- 907
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Very very nice.
Thanks for the advice. It's just a flat color on a bluebird wagon and it was a task in itself to detail the front end as I have a mission of a time always painting round headlights of a black background. So the front end itself has loads of work and patience put in it. Here's the car here: this is why I don't want to repaint, the finish of gloss purple was flawless until it fell if the shelf.
Thanks for the advice. It's just a flat color on a bluebird wagon and it was a task in itself to detail the front end as I have a mission of a time always painting round headlights of a black background. So the front end itself has loads of work and patience put in it. Here's the car here: this is why I don't want to repaint, the finish of gloss purple was flawless until it fell if the shelf.
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Cano
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It's not white paint, it's the tampo itself. It was cut outside of that thin red line. In fact, the thin red line extended well into the door and up to the door handle, but when we applied the tampos one broke, and we decided to cut the others to make them all the same.
As for time, these weren't thaaaat complicated, I designed the tampos so they were as easy to apply as possible. These cars had only 5 tampos each, the entire hood, the entire sides (meaning that the decals on the sides are not individual tampos, but one big clear tampo, see picture bellow), the rear color trim and the Toyota logo on the hatch.
As well as simplifyng the tampoeing process, this also makes the tampo's cut lines less noticeable than if they were separated elements, something we learned when we made the Nova Gasser, which has separate tampos for each element and the cut lines are way evident.
The most complicated tampoeing we've done so far are the Martini Porsches. Those were an absolute pain in the entire body to do.
Also, the freaking Ferrari looks good in flat black 👍
I like the color and the white wheels combo 👍
- 907
- Australia
It's not white paint, it's the tampo itself. It was cut outside of that thin red line. In fact, the thin red line extended well into the door and up to the door handle, but when we applied the tampos one broke, and we decided to cut the others to make them all the same.
As for time, these weren't thaaaat complicated, I designed the tampos so they were as easy to apply as possible. These cars had only 5 tampos each, the entire hood, the entire sides (meaning that the decals on the sides are not individual tampos, but one big clear tampo, see picture bellow), the rear color trim and the Toyota logo on the hatch.
As well as simplifyng the tampoeing process, this also makes the tampo's cut lines less noticeable than if they were separated elements, something we learned when we made the Nova Gasser, which has separate tampos for each element and the cut lines are way evident.
The most complicated tampoeing we've done so far are the Martini Porsches. Those were an absolute pain in the entire body to do.
Also, the freaking Ferrari looks good in flat black 👍
I like the color and the white wheels combo 👍
Yeah I thought the dark gloss purple would work well with the white trim wheels. Thanks, see why I don't want to repaint it again?
Cano
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First of all, they would have to be in clear paper, as that's way thinner than white paper and "turns" better, adapts better to the surface. The only example of this I could provide with my experience would be the tampos for the panel-painted gassers. In the gold one the side tampos are one large tampo containing all the elements (rear quarters, doors, front fenders) and the top and trunk are separate elemnts (the license plates are3 white-paper tampos).
While in the gray car each of the elements on the sides were cut and applied individually. We did this car first and found it to be too complicated, so in the gold car we tried the full-side-tampo thing and worked well because it's mainly a flat surface, with only the top of the fenders being curved surfaces.
These cars are bulbous enough to make tampo-placing a bit challenging as in some surfaces the tampo may not "turn" well and a small space 'tween the tampo and the body of the car is left, and that may lead to "bites" inb the tampo when the clear is applied. Other thing we've found is that after placing a tampo, a quick and light spray of rattle can matte clear will make the tampo "settle" and stick better to the body.
As for the white paper thing I was saying earlier, the blue one I did for this year's convention is a perfect example of how the white paper is way more harder to work with, specially in curved surfaces where it won't turn as well as the clear paper due to it's thickness... and well, you'll always be able to see the white outline of the paper, which is a big letdown when using it.
In the end, the design of the tampo is what will determine if it "grabs" the body well. We learned this when doing the Porsches, I designed the tail-light stipe completely horizontal, but when we tested it, we found that when it turned, it curved upwards, so we had to change the tampo itself in order to conform to the body. That one came out more or less well; alas, the pointy decal of the Martini livery that you can see in the picture was originally designed to conform to the shape of the wheelwell and reach all the way to where the fender flare ends, but I could never make it work properly so we settled with this as, in the end, it doesn't look too bad and we ran out of time to enter them in the contest. But making that transition to flat-design-surface to curved-applying-surface has been the hardest part, and one I've not mastered yet, when designing complex stuff like the Porsches.
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