Hot Wheels and Matchbox Customizing Thread

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I usually use the cutting part on needle nose pliers and hold everything in a small snack bag. Its certainly not the best, but its the best I can do, and it gets the job done.
 
Anyone else here just abandon their customs they start working on? Well, that's just what I did with my Mustang. I added in all the headlights, rear lights, etc. Everything went well until the wheels. I thought it was smart to alter the already fine wheels. I tried many different wheel colors and couldn't pick one that worked. At this point, there was no going back. So I just said "screw it I'm done."
 
Anyone else here just abandon their customs they start working on? Well, that's just what I did with my Mustang. I added in all the headlights, rear lights, etc. Everything went well until the wheels. I thought it was smart to alter the already fine wheels. I tried many different wheel colors and couldn't pick one that worked. At this point, there was no going back. So I just said "screw it I'm done."
I have quite a lot. To the point where I might just be better off either stopping completely or only do detail jobs. Then again, that's more due to a lack of time and getting caught up in other stuff.
 
For cutting hot wheels axles? Wire snips work fine for me, I just hold them under a towel so nothing goes flying anywhere.

Problem is, those are not Hot Wheels or Matchbox axles, those are one of those "solid tube" axles which are a little bit thicker and a deal more resistant to cutting by wire snips. I think it's time to get a dremel, damnit xD
 
Use something like this:

7663759-11.jpg


instead of this:

wire_cutter_large.jpg




Just beware the axles get snapped in half and shot in opposite directions from each other. Cover that up with your free hand so you don't lose your stuff. I usually cover the top half that's pointing up and have the bottom half pointing down on my work table.
 
Use something like this:

7663759-11.jpg


instead of this:

wire_cutter_large.jpg




Just beware the axles get snapped in half and shot in opposite directions from each other. Cover that up with your free hand so you don't lose your stuff. I usually cover the top half that's pointing up and have the bottom half pointing down on my work table.
Yeah, those are dikes/side cutters
I still use my dremel mostly but I have used my dikes at times
 
I would think a pair of cutters are a better option because they won't wear as quick as a cutting disc, don't require electrical power, and it takes as much time to cut the axle with the cutters as it does to just set up your rotary tool.
 
I just use the circle bit of a smallish pair of old pliers. Never had any problems at all with any thickness of axle, plus i like the satisfying "click!" it makes. :D
 
So, I FINALLy managed to get my hands on some decal paper... some Testors clear paper. What I was hoping someone could answer is:

A) What programs do you guys use for making designs? Would Adobe Illustrator and Elements work?
B) How would I be able to make shapes of the car's doors, bonnet, etc?

(Btw I'm hoping to use this on a BMW 1M, in case that helps)

Thanks!
 
So, I FINALLy managed to get my hands on some decal paper... some Testors clear paper. What I was hoping someone could answer is:

A) What programs do you guys use for making designs? Would Adobe Illustrator and Elements work?
B) How would I be able to make shapes of the car's doors, bonnet, etc?

(Btw I'm hoping to use this on a BMW 1M, in case that helps)

Thanks!
Ai will work, definitely. You can make print documents of any size and it'll most likely come out clear (printer depending) because vector drawing.
 
That looks amazing @vballcoach. 👍 I'm kind of curious to see what'd look like with a slightly extended window visor/roof overhang.

I lost count filling the third box.
I know what you mean.. well kind of. Iv'e got about a shoebox full of unfinished/work in progress customs.

Haven't done anything in a while but did a quick wheel swap earlier.

(1) Swapped out the existing Matchbox wheels on the BMW, and changed them for slightly smaller MB wheels, it still needs a ride height drop though.

(2) Used the MB wheels from the BMW on this RealToy Toyota Soarer, i think they suit it quite well.

(3) Swapped the wheels on the Guisval Jag XJ12c (the Guisval axles were bent). Not sure whether they suit it (i quite like the originals), but it allowed me to sort out the suspension a bit (bit more springy now). I placed my custom (WIP) TLV Porsche 911 next to it, to show some scale (they're not exact but i think they're pretty close).

(4) Forgot i'd stripped this MB F40 a good while back. I'm either going to restore it or modify it (Liberty Walk style bodykit maybe).. either way, i'm going to be attempting a mesh rear engine grill, don't know whether it will work, but i'm going to try it anyway. Also stole the wheels from my RWB RealToy Porsche 993, as a think they work way better on the Ferrari.

Pic:


 
one wheel finished. rubber grommet on left is what I used. really came out fine.

Dang that looks smashing. I second the tutorial request @R1600Turbo made.

So, I FINALLy managed to get my hands on some decal paper... some Testors clear paper.

First of all: for deskjet printer or ffor laser printer?

(4) Forgot i'd stripped this MB F40 a good while back. I'm either going to restore it or modify it (Liberty Walk style bodykit maybe).. either way, i'm going to be attempting a mesh rear engine grill, don't know whether it will work, but i'm going to try it anyway. Also stole the wheels from my RWB RealToy Porsche 993, as a think they work way better on the Ferrari.

That's gonna look pretty damn bad ass.


Also, people, new post in Custom Diecast México, this is such a strange thing, but somehow it works incredibly well:

http://www.customdiecastmexico.com/2015/02/hot-wheels-twin-flow.html
15811110214_c52d3cdc50_o.jpg
 

[USER=7376]@R1600Turbo
Spray a clear coat on the paper directly or the car with the prints already on it?[/USER]
I think he means on the sheet of decals, before being applied to the car. There's something called 'Micro-sol' (i think) that does a similar job of strengthening the decal sheet. I imagine spraying clear on the car once the decals are applied helps seal the whole thing too. So i would have thought it be wise to do both. 👍
 
@R1600Turbo Spray a clear coat on the paper directly or the car with the prints already on it?
When printing decals with an inkjet based printer, you have to spray a clear coat over them so when you put them in water to separate the decal from the paper the ink won't run. It's best to do a bunch of prints on regular paper first so you can align and size the decals correctly. Since the decal sheets are so big, try to make it so they print in a corner of the sheet so you don't waste any.
 
Unless you're working with transparency, I would cut out the decals before printing. Check out what happend to these decals I made:

882393_10151857896189097_1916995121_o.jpg


It's white decal paper with a dark blue background printed on it. I sprayed the working sheet before cutting out each individual piece. Dipped in water and watched the dissolve at the fringes.

I reckon if you cut them out first, you can at least get the clear coat stuck to the sides too.
 
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