Hot Wheels and Matchbox Customizing Thread

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The paper's clear, so are you saying that I can just print it and stick it on? I'm pretty sure it's dry-apply, because it says nothing about water or anything.
 
Stickers are blah. Water slides, when wet become very loose and malleable, so it can shape itself along the contours of whatever surface you apply it to (though it has its limits).
 
Tutorial please?

so here it is.....

tools used:
hand drill
mini tubing cutter
countersink
assorted files
320grit sandpaper
single edge razor blade

materials used:
5/16" aluminum tubing
5/16" rubber grommet
super glue
Jada wheels

-cut tubing using tubing cutter to satisfied wheel width
-file and sand tubing edges to equal height then chamfer edge with countersink to create bevel/smooth outer lip
-chuck stock Jada wheels in drill using the wheel hub and spin while 'turning' down wheel with file - finish smoothing with sandpaper. you will have to check the fitment of the turned down wheels to the ID of the tubing periodically.
-super glue the wheels to the rims making sure the desired 'deep dish' look is acquired
-use razor blade to cut rubber grommets to match wheel as close as can be and mount to wheels
-chuck 'new' wheels in drill and begin 'turning' down the tires with files/sandpaper; don't forget to sand edges for beveled look on tires




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The chucks on both my drills retract when I want to open up its diameter, so I haven't been able to find a way to grip HW wheels yet still.
 
The chucks on both my drills retract when I want to open up its diameter, so I haven't been able to find a way to grip HW wheels yet still.
Is your drill keyless chuck? On the HW wheels, you may have to Dremel out the 4 'ribs' that support the rear hub
 
I believe it's a keyless chuck. That's the opposite of what drill presses have, correct?

Before removing the ribs, the space between the tire and the spindle is too narrow for the chuck to grab hold of anything. Maybe not most wheels, but I can't do it on 5SP wheels.
 
I believe it's a keyless chuck. That's the opposite of what drill presses have, correct?

Before removing the ribs, the space between the tire and the spindle is too narrow for the chuck to grab hold of anything. Maybe not most wheels, but I can't do it on 5SP wheels.
I don't know whether this would work, but maybe consider super gluing the spindle of an unwanted wheel to the back of the spindle, of the wheel you want to work on (you may need to flatten the rounded spindle first with a file to have more contact area).. You'd probably need to insert a long bit of axle pin during the gluing just to center/align both wheels, but make sure the axle is removed before the glue drys (otherwise it may seep and bond to the wheel you're working on).
I don't know whether the glue and contact patch, would hold up to the rotational forces of the drill, but i think it's worth a try.. Oh, and once the wheels finished, just simply slice the wheels apart with a sharp Stanley blade/or craft knife. 👍
 
I don't know whether this would work, but maybe consider super gluing the spindle of an unwanted wheel to the back of the spindle, of the wheel you want to work on (you may need to flatten the rounded spindle first with a file to have more contact area).. You'd probably need to insert a long bit of axle pin during the gluing just to center/align both wheels, but make sure the axle is removed before the glue drys (otherwise it may seep and bond to the wheel you're working on).
I don't know whether the glue and contact patch, would hold up to the rotational forces of the drill, but i think it's worth a try.. Oh, and once the wheels finished, just simply slice the wheels apart with a sharp Stanley blade/or craft knife. 👍
that may work but as you said the spin speed and force of the file/sandpaper will make the joint questionable.

as for the chuck, are you using a 3/8" or 1/2" keyless chuck? the hubs are ~4mm in diameter. you have to be sure to use a 3/8" drill...1/2 is just too big.
 
Well, here is what I have so far, I'm going to print out some plates for it and maybe something to fix the front end. Any thoughts? And yes I know I used the different sized Hot Wheels wheels but I think it looks nice on this particular model.
bmw 1m purp.jpg
bmw 1m purp 2.jpg
 
that may work but as you said the spin speed and force of the file/sandpaper will make the joint questionable.
I figured that might be the case. Alternatively, what about slicing off both spindles so they're flush to the back of the tyre/wheel, and then gluing the back edges of the tyres/wheels back to back? (obviously not gluing the centre, but still using the axle for alignment, and then just slicing the wheels apart when finished.)

[EDIT]

@Avalonbug

I think the purple suits it, iv'e seen a few BMW M3's in that purple. 👍

If you're going with smaller wheels on your M1, it would look better with a drop, though.
 
2 questions:

1. How should I go about adding "some further detail" to the lamps?
2. How can I lower the front of the BMW but not the back? Or how can I lower the car in general?
 
2 questions:


2. How can I lower the front of the BMW but not the back? Or how can I lower the car in general?
I would be able to give you some advice, because i plan on lowering my M1, as well, but i'm not at home currently. So i can't see exactly what needs to be done.
 
2 questions:

1. How should I go about adding "some further detail" to the lamps?
2. How can I lower the front of the BMW but not the back? Or how can I lower the car in general?

1) Thin paintbrush, toothpick, paint. What did you do to get the circular markings on the headlamps?

2) How do you make a 4-legged table shorter? You chop down its legs. How do you make only one side lower? Chop only 2 legs.
 
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1) I used a tooth pick and went and made it smoother with a Sharpie pen. And I also mean like in what ways should it be improved on?
2) I want to make the body at an angle so there's not as much of a wheel gap in the front. Should I cut out part of the interior?

Sorry for all of the questions
 
1) I used a tooth pick and went and made it smoother with a Sharpie pen. And I also mean like in what ways should it be improved on?
2) I want to make the body at an angle so there's not as much of a wheel gap in the front. Should I cut out part of the interior?

So you put down black paint and refined it into circles a marker? Can't say I've heard of such a technique.

1) If you're looking to improve it, ideally, you're going to want to make it look as realistic as possible. Up to you what you want to do, but would you personally want to settle at the base layer like this:

%5BWS%5D%2BBMW%2BM3%2BGT2%2B(white)_1.jpg


Or would you rather go the extra mile and add in other stuff like this:

%5BWS%5D%2BHonda%2BCivic%2Bhiphop_2.jpg


Again, it's your call, but I think the extra effort pays off. What you can do is look up pics of the 1M and try to create an impression of the lamp socket's contents with whatever you have.

For that Civic, I used silver as the base layer, and distinguished the different parts with black lines which double up as the negative space in a lamp.


2) Bang on the money. Cutting at the interior is exactly what I do to lower cars. 👍
 
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I took one apart but put AW wheels on it. (premium wheels on a non-premium car) Thinking about getting another one of these:

AW64011_SetA-5.jpg


And putting some nice Greenlight wheels on it like so:

gl_036_70gtojudge_2009.jpg
 
Well, if the axle's too thick, you can shave down the slots on the base and/or interior.

If the wheels are fixed to the axles and the axle's length is too long, you can cut it down and use tubing. If you don't have the tubing, you can cut the axle in two, shorten each half and glue them to the base. The wheels won't roll, but it's not going on a race track.

If the wheels you want happen to be too big, then you're SOL. :lol:
 
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