I just got NFS Shift!!

  • Thread starter marmar
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There are some very nice cars in tier 1 and 2, actually, like the Audi's and some of the US cars. 👍

I would advise against setting the angle to 900 and reducing the wheel sensitivity to 50%, especially the two combined. It gives you a huge deadzone and steering becomes unresponsive. I've set it to 360 degrees and 100% and there is hardly a deadzone and the steering is very responsive. Keep the pedals at 50% though, they're rather touchy to start with. ;)

I sad it before and all those advices are probably well meant, but do not set your Steering Sensitivity at anything but 50%, it will destroy your steering in the long run.

Change your degrees, more less, change the wheel lock setting, change the steering lock in the tuning part (when available) to fine tine, but leave the steering linear.

Just for those that missed an earlier post, explanations of the settings.
A quick definition is provided below to help determine what's good to touch or best-left unaltered. Don't forget to use the DEFAULTS option if settings get tweaked too far.

Steering Deadzone - The smaller the value the smaller the deadzone. For steering wheels it is recommended to have this value at 0%. | NOTE: These next few deadzone settings for a gamepad are best-left unaltered.

Accelerator Deadzone - The basic description for all the deadzones are the same. For the initial range of motion no input is reported, and then starts when the end of he deadzone has been reached. On top of these additionl recommendations can be added.

Brake Deadzone - As above - For the initial range of motion no input is reported, and then starts when the end of he deadzone has been reached. On top of these additionl recommendations can be added.

Steering Sensitivity - This setting adjusts how sensitive the steering across the input span. With 50% sensitivity it is equally as sensitive at the beginning of the range as at the end of the range. This can make the steering feel twitchy on a game pad, thus it is recommended to have a lower sensitivy setting which makes the steering a bit less sensitive for small inputs. For a steering wheel it is recommended to have this setting at 50%.

Acceleration Sensitivity - Same as above, a value lower than 50% means the input is less sensitive in the beginning of the input span.

Braking Sensitivity - As defined above. If the default setting is not responsive enough (may well become car & performance specific), it's recommended to make slight adjustments & test.

Speed Steering Sensitivity - This setting reduces the sensitivity of steering at speed. A high value applies maximum effect to make the car stable to drive down straights with a gamepad. Lowering the value will make the car feel sensitive and twitchy at higher speeds. For a multiturn steering wheel it is recommended to set this value to 0%, for other wheels a value around 50% is recommended.

Inverse Shifting - Reverses the default controller shift buttons.

Camera Y Axis - Inverts the R-stick camera movement in game.

Wheel Lock - This determines how much of the available turn to turn lock to use for the steering wheel. On consoles this is set in degrees measured from lock to lock. On PC it is set as a percentage of the steerings wheels available lock. This can be fine tuned to suit the players preference, with less lock giving more sensitive steering, with too much lock the car will feel unresponsive.

FF Strength - Determines the strength of the force feedback effects, 0 means effects are muted, 10 gives the strongest effects.

Slowly getting the hang of the drifting and this is me winning the Spa event :dopey:
image

PC upload to NFS site, seams to be ok (not darkned atleast ;) )
 
Here's a link to control settings guide, especially useful for player with wheels.

http://www.needforspeed.com/web/nfs-na/blogs/need-for-speed-news/-/nfsblogs/116565

I've got a G25.

In a nutshell, set all dead zones to 0, all sensitivity to 50% (to keep all analog inputs linear), speed sensitive steering to 0, wheel angle to 900 (for G25 and similar wheels. Set FFB to taste. Mine's turned up to 10.

These settings give a very progressive feel to the pedal and wheel inputs. The cars feel less twitchy and the clutch take up is also more linear.

Thanks alot, made it alot better to play with wheel
 
I sad it before and all those advices are probably well meant, but do not set your Steering Sensitivity at anything but 50%, it will destroy your steering in the long run.
Steering sensitivity at 50% is too insensitive for me. I prefer 100. And I'm pretty sure there are plenty people who use completely different settings, some lower than 50, others higher. Just because it's recommended doesn't mean it's the only right setting for everybody. Don't be condescending like that. 👎
 
Does anyone know what the deal is with the clutch?

All the "manual" clutch seems to do is allow a quick start and stall the car after a big off. It seems to make no difference at all whether you use it to whilst shifting, and heel-toe just does not work for me. How is it supposed to work with paddle shift cars? I cannot make it stack up.

MP is a total joke. Consequence of being *rewarded* for poor driving I guess (contact, pushing, spinning out etc.). You cannot even create a "sim" type private room! Expect contact at every corner or with every pass :-/
 
Does anyone know what the deal is with the clutch?
If you set it to manual and you shift without using the clutch, there is supposed to be a delay in shifting as punishment. I also heard that it's not a very big punishment. ;)
 
Okay this game was very fun in the beginning but now it's just annoying. There seems to be a lag with DFP and this game on the PC. Anyone experience this as well? It's very unresponsive, if there's not fix for it I think i'm gonna play with the keyboard instead. Oh and drifting is impossible in this game.
 
After I drove the Porsche GT2 I will never drive a Tier 1/2 car again. Just my preference.
The Tier 3 cars are very nice indeed, they appear to be much better balanced. So far, I have tried the R8 and the Z06 and they are both amazing. 👍 Still, I like the RS4 and the Shelby GT500 too.
 
Something of a personal question...

Perhaps it's my eyes and how much I hate...that's not the point here - anyone notice that retarded ass "Crip" decal? :odd:

That's just all kinds of what the 🤬.
 
Steering sensitivity at 50% is too insensitive for me. I prefer 100. And I'm pretty sure there are plenty people who use completely different settings, some lower than 50, others higher. Just because it's recommended doesn't mean it's the only right setting for everybody. Don't be condescending like that. 👎


That not what I meant NLxAROSA, if it came across like that sorry.

I have been playing gMotor based engines long enough to know, that you really should not alter that setting. Just think of it as an graphic, were x-as is your steering input & y-as how it is translated in game.

50% is linear, meaning 10% on x-as = 10% on y-as 50 = 50, 100=100 --> aka thew hite line
100%, you get a graph that almost start parallel to the y-as in the beginning and flattens out at the top. 20% steering input x-as = 60/70% steering in game y-as. And there is hardly any difference between let’s say 60 and 85 ---> red line
0% is the “mirror” of the red line, starts of along the x-as and steep in the end.

r0oaci.jpg


It is extremely hard to get used to it and to be very precise. So I’m just trying to explain why you should not use it and try to get used to the other setting. It might feel like a quick fix, but it will not make it easier for you in the long term ;)
 
I'm sick of this game constantly freezing and lagging. It's as if developers are releasing games as completed when they're actually in an almost beta stage because they know they can fix it up with DLC. At least I hope there will be some to fix up all the million problems.

Are you using FW 3.01 on PS3?
 
That not what I meant NLxAROSA, if it came across like that sorry.
No offense was taken. Thanks for the explanation and graph. 👍

BTW, I actually lowered it to 75% after some more testing. Still, at 50%, I find the cars 'float' too much as steering is rather unresponsive (to me anyway). Then again, I'm still exploring the settings, so I still might adjust it a bit down (or back up) in the future. ;)
 
That not what I meant NLxAROSA, if it came across like that sorry.

I have been playing gMotor based engines long enough to know, that you really should not alter that setting. Just think of it as an graphic, were x-as is your steering input & y-as how it is translated in game.

50% is linear, meaning 10% on x-as = 10% on y-as 50 = 50, 100=100 --> aka thew hite line
100%, you get a graph that almost start parallel to the y-as in the beginning and flattens out at the top. 20% steering input x-as = 60/70% steering in game y-as. And there is hardly any difference between let’s say 60 and 85 ---> red line
0% is the “mirror” of the red line, starts of along the x-as and steep in the end.

r0oaci.jpg


It is extremely hard to get used to it and to be very precise. So I’m just trying to explain why you should not use it and try to get used to the other setting. It might feel like a quick fix, but it will not make it easier for you in the long term ;)


Interesting. But I'm having a hard time visualizing what is being pointed out there. Can someone explain from a different angle?
 
I think what he is trying to say is that if your steering sensitivty is set to 100% then you cant turn the wheel a small amount. If you put 25% steering input you feel about 75% of the potential amount of actual steering angle... it isnt linear.

the graph- bottom of graph is steering input, left side is actual amount of the cars wheels being turned. So, lets say the graph is 4inches wide- go over 1in from the feft (25%) and go up, you see it shows about 75% of the cars potential wheel angle is already used. Thus, you cant turn the wheel a small amount.

Hope that helps a little. I dont agree, or disagree, I am just trying to clarify.
 
hi i rented the game out today, and all seems excellent other than the brakes on the g25 feel wierd, the moment i press them a significant amount my cars brakes lock and it slides. any ideas? i understand i have to adjust the brake sensitivity, but whats a good value? as i want the whole steering settings as close to gt5p as possible.

any helps appreciated thanks.
 
Many run 0 % sensitivity on the brake. You are seldom on full brake and it´s not there you need the precision. Better to have more precision below 50 % braking instead if you are trailbraking. It also helps if you like so many have brake pedals with very little resistance. It´s quite hard to feel how much you depress them so having 0 % helps there.

If you have really stiff brakes I would stay with 50 % though.

Otherwise they did certainly fail a bit with the wheel support. It amazes me that there seem to be impossible to make a console game with perfectly linear steering for wheels.

I am running quite extreme settings. 30 % turning lock and 900 degrees. It get a bit unresponsive. for London and tight courses I may choose the 540 preset on my GT 3 RS for the lower tier cars anyway. The zonda is twitchy even at those settings!

Normally I run with more responsive controls in my racing sims but this just give me way more control over my 4-wheel drifting and I just run smoother with much better lines, hit more apexes etc whereas at 540 it´s so sensitive I tend to use to much wheel input and loose grip due to not being smooth enough.
 
I think what he is trying to say is that if your steering sensitivty is set to 100% then you cant turn the wheel a small amount. If you put 25% steering input you feel about 75% of the potential amount of actual steering angle... it isnt linear.

the graph- bottom of graph is steering input, left side is actual amount of the cars wheels being turned. So, lets say the graph is 4inches wide- go over 1in from the feft (25%) and go up, you see it shows about 75% of the cars potential wheel angle is already used. Thus, you cant turn the wheel a small amount.

Hope that helps a little. I dont agree, or disagree, I am just trying to clarify.

I think I get it. I get the concept but I'm a visual personal and am trying to understand the concept visually so it really sinks in.

I'm going to play with some settings tonight. The post above this about the 0% settings also makes alot of sense.
 
OK, pictue turning the wheel a 1/8 turn, but you get the response of a 1/2 turn. Rough numbers, but that is essentially what happens, but it is not linear, meaning the ratio is always changing. So, when you just turn the wheel real quick you dont really know what is gonna happen, unless you are really use to the settings. This is Markao POV, not mine (but I kinda think he is right after I put sensitivity to %70 and it was jetting all over the place unpredictably, lol)

As I said somewhere earlier, Id prefer the wheel to have no settings and just work right (like GT)
 
Well finaly got it today(PS3 version), hit it for a solid 6 hours on pro mode AI on hard all assists off using the DF-GT. Currently on Tier 2 driver level 12 with 36 stars precision driver. 2 cars, escort cosworth and the old nisan GTR.
First thing I thought was.....oh no this is bad......then slowly I got my head around the game and now it's a classic, took about 5 hours to get to that point though LOL

I won't pour over every aspect as that's been done to death over the past few days (and much apriciated it was) I'll just point out a few of my own opinions and findings. First up...this isn't GT5, It's not even trying to be! It's carved a niche in the market all for itself, that of a "racing sim" it's what grid should have been if it had sim physics! Now this isn't a bad thing, it's not ment as a derogitory comment! It's actualy a very very good thing, it aims to imerse the player in the feeling of a race, not of imersing a player in the feeling of driving a car. The difference I would say is GT5p = SOCOM NFSS = COD4 It isn't an arcade racer it's definatly a sim it just focuses on racing rather than focusing on the cars.

Right dead zone.....I'm using the DF-GT with the settings prety much standard, theres been alot of talk about deadzones ranging from a few degrees to some which are so huge it's undrivable? Well I have got possibley a "deadzone" of 1 or 2 degrees which varies depending on the car I'm in but....it's not actualy a deadzone, more a FFB deadzone. the car still changes direction depending on your imput in this small "deadzone" you just dont get any FFB try it and see down a long straight, once you get used to it you can be very acurate with your steering and placing the car where you want it, it kind of highlights the speed down the straights more and makes you use really controled smooth inputs.

Ok bugs, had the "car no on grid marker properly and girl with flag standing in the back of the car" a couple of times and I had the "no volume at all" once, and thats all I've had.

Cars.....oh those cars! right love the tuning and the upgrade system and for those who have modded up a tiere 1 car to nith degree without the works package on it, you may find the cars a bit of a handful or bounces around alot....thats because a ford escort or the like really isn't desighned to carry 400bhp, you CAN tune these cars TOO FAR! and as a result your not going to be that competertive against a similary powered supercar. Use the works package if you want to make a silk purse out of a sows ear LOL

And just a quick one, nitrous, don't knock it. If F1 cars can have kerrs you can have nitrous, it's not hollywood but it will get you cleanly round a few cars during a race, but remember it's a trde off, you vehicles performance index goes up with nitrous and it's only actualy usable for 10 seconds (basic one) in a whole race which really isn't that long and it really only gives you a few mph more, it really isn't hollywood nos
.
Ok online, I've had a few races online now, hosted a few against Jambo at spa where we took out the cozzies and then hit nurenburgh, all good clean fun. I then went and tried some random online games and found myself in a few 8 player 6.0 performance limited races all of them were very smooth didn't see one instance of lag. OK the performance limit you'll find online wil inevitubley have you desighning cars to meet there constraints. This is excellent. You really need to work at this and I can see many many hours just getting a group of cars to fit into each group and of course you'll need at least 2 cars for each group, one for the open speed cuircuits and another for the tight technical ones.

Final word from me is this game is very very good, a classic if your will, it certainly puts NFS back on the map! Don't aproach it as a rival for GT5 or Forza 3, you'll be disapointed.....it's actualy THE NEW TOCA! But you really need to give it time as the physics are subtle, there very intricate but you need to adjust so you can get a feel for them which takes quite a long time, but when it dose click it's more than worth the effort!
 
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Well finaly got it today(PS3 version), hit it for a solid 6 hours on pro mode AI on hard all assists off using the DF-GT. Currently on Tier 2 driver level 12 with 36 stars precision driver. 2 cars, escort cosworth and the old nisan GTR.
First thing I thought was.....oh no this is bad......then slowly I got my head around the game and now it's a classic, took about 5 hours to get to that point though LOL

I won't pour over every aspect as that's been done to death over the past few days (and much apriciated it was) I'll just point out a few of my own opinions and findings. First up...this isn't GT5, It's not even trying to be! It's carved a niche in the market all for itself, that of a "racing sim" it's what grid should have been if it had sim physics! Now this isn't a bad thing, it's not ment as a derogitory comment! It's actualy a very very good thing, it aims to imerse the player in the feeling of a race, not of imersing a player in the feeling of driving a car. The difference I would say is GT5p = SOCOM NFSS = COD4 It isn't an arcade racer it's definatly a sim it just focuses on racing rather than focusing on the cars.

Right dead zone.....I'm using the DF-GT with the settings prety much standard, theres been alot of talk about deadzones ranging from a few degrees to some which are so huge it's undrivable? Well I have got possibley a "deadzone" of 1 or 2 degrees which varies depending on the car I'm in but....it's not actualy a deadzone, more a FFB deadzone. the car still changes direction depending on your imput in this small "deadzone" you just dont get any FFB try it and see down a long straight, once you get used to it you can be very acurate with your steering and placing the car where you want it, it kind of highlights the speed down the straights more and makes you use really controled smooth inputs.

Ok bugs, had the "car no on grid marker properly and girl with flag standing in the back of the car" a couple of times and I had the "no volume at all" once, and thats all I've had.

Cars.....oh those cars! right love the tuning and the upgrade system and for those who have modded up a tiere 1 car to nith degree without the works package on it, you may find the cars a bit of a handful or bounces around alot....thats because a ford escort or the like really isn't desighned to carry 400bhp, you CAN tune these cars TOO FAR! and as a result your not going to be that competertive against a similary powered supercar. Use the works package if you want to make a silk purse out of a sows ear LOL

And just a quick one, nitrous, don't knock it. If F1 cars can have kerrs you can have nitrous, it's not hollywood but it will get you cleanly round a few cars during a race, but remember it's a trde off, you vehicles performance index goes up with nitrous and it's only actualy usable for 10 seconds (basic one) in a whole race which really isn't that long and it really only gives you a few mph more, it really isn't hollywood nos
.
Ok online, I've had a few races online now, hosted a few against Jambo at spa where we took out the cozzies and then hit nurenburgh, all good clean fun. I then went and tried some random online games and found myself in a few 8 player 6.0 performance limited races all of them were very smooth didn't see one instance of lag. OK the performance limit you'll find online wil inevitubley have you desighning cars to meet there constraints. This is excellent. You really need to work at this and I can see many many hours just getting a group of cars to fit into each group and of course you'll need at least 2 cars for each group, one for the open speed cuircuits and another for the tight technical ones.

Final word from me is this game is very very good, a classic if your will, it certainly puts NFS back on the map! Don't aproach it as a rival for GT5 or Forza 3, you'll be disapointed.....it's actualy THE NEW TOCA! But you really need to give it time as the physics are subtle, there very intricate but you need to adjust so you can get a feel for them which takes quite a long time, but when it dose click it's more than worth the effort!

Well said 👍
 
I don't know if anyone else has posted this or not, but like many, some of my cars--after being equipped with stage 2 and 3 upgrades (and some without) were bouncing like crazy :grumpy: I love the physics in this game, but this was really excessive, "can't keep the car on the track" bouncing.

Well, I've been messing around with the settings, and it seems like maximizing all the rebound settings eliminates most of this bouncing :) Not all of it, but you can at least keep it on the track. Now this is just with the GT3RS Porsche at Road America, but I'm guessing it will work for most other cars as well. I know this doesn't sound right, as maximizing the rebound would seem to make it worse :confused: but it worked for me. I got so frustrated with the bouncing, I just stopped working on levelling up and sat here for the past 1.5 hours and have been tinkering around. Some of you tuners out there (NLxAROSA, etc.) try this out and see what you think 👍 I suck at tuning, so maybe you can improve on this.
 
I don't know if anyone else has posted this or not, but like many, some of my cars--after being equipped with stage 2 and 3 upgrades (and some without) were bouncing like crazy :grumpy: I love the physics in this game, but this was really excessive, "can't keep the car on the track" bouncing.

Well, I've been messing around with the settings, and it seems like maximizing all the rebound settings eliminates most of this bouncing :) Not all of it, but you can at least keep it on the track. Now this is just with the GT3RS Porsche at Road America, but I'm guessing it will work for most other cars as well. I know this doesn't sound right, as maximizing the rebound would seem to make it worse :confused: but it worked for me. I got so frustrated with the bouncing, I just stopped working on levelling up and sat here for the past 1.5 hours and have been tinkering around. Some of you tuners out there (NLxAROSA, etc.) try this out and see what you think 👍 I suck at tuning, so maybe you can improve on this.

Yes, the bouncing is ridiculously stupid!!!

I'm sure it's been posted within the 9 pages of this thread, but what the frack is wrong with the online component??!! Why are there no "rooms"? It's always random and there never a list of rooms to chose from. Online is this game stinks as bad as a chili fart and is why I will NOT buy it.
 
I don't know if anyone else has posted this or not, but like many, some of my cars--after being equipped with stage 2 and 3 upgrades (and some without) were bouncing like crazy :grumpy: I love the physics in this game, but this was really excessive, "can't keep the car on the track" bouncing.

Well, I've been messing around with the settings, and it seems like maximizing all the rebound settings eliminates most of this bouncing :) Not all of it, but you can at least keep it on the track. Now this is just with the GT3RS Porsche at Road America, but I'm guessing it will work for most other cars as well. I know this doesn't sound right, as maximizing the rebound would seem to make it worse :confused: but it worked for me. I got so frustrated with the bouncing, I just stopped working on levelling up and sat here for the past 1.5 hours and have been tinkering around. Some of you tuners out there (NLxAROSA, etc.) try this out and see what you think 👍 I suck at tuning, so maybe you can improve on this.

Carl- my man love is growing more and more for you, lol. I bet you noticed me playing for like 10min, then I put GT5P in for about 2min and then I quit... i couldnt go around 1 turn today without bouncing into a wall! I was about to give my PS3 a "Randy Savage leg drop" I was so annoyed with the bouncing. My feelings for this game are one of a bi-polar teenager- I LOVE it, now I want to KILL it. anyways, thanks for the tip, even though it doesnt make any sense!
 
Hmm... looks like plenty of little problems with this game. Hopefully they will sort them out over time. Gives some insight as to why it takes forever to get GT5 out. I haven't tried online yet, but will be disappointed if it doesn't work well.
 
You might try this for more stock to lightly tuned "road" cars:

This set is giving me good rotation and feel of a road car

720 degrees rotation

steering d-zone: 0%

accel/brake d-zone: 2% for both

steering sens. : 50%

acell/brake sens. : 50% and 45% respectively

speed sens. steering: 0%

turning steering lock (in tuning) set to the middle marker (28-32) more or less


Still working on it though.
__________________

thanks, I'll try to see how it feel:tup:
 
Hmm... looks like plenty of little problems with this game. Hopefully they will sort them out over time. Gives some insight as to why it takes forever to get GT5 out. I haven't tried online yet, but will be disappointed if it doesn't work well.

Online is absolutely random unless you use the friends list function. No matter what you do, there is no list of rooms. Doesn't matter if it's ranked or unranked, it's all frickin random!!! I have never played an online game that sucked as bad as this! What the frack were they thinking!?

If they would make the online "normal", and fixed the bouncing, audio drops while in bumper cam, frame rate drops, then I will most likely buy it.
 
I might rent this when it gets to 3 days hire, but I don't think I buy it. By the imput from here it's a bit here and there. Typical NFS.
 
I don't know if anyone else has posted this or not, but like many, some of my cars--after being equipped with stage 2 and 3 upgrades (and some without) were bouncing like crazy :grumpy: I love the physics in this game, but this was really excessive, "can't keep the car on the track" bouncing.

Well, I've been messing around with the settings, and it seems like maximizing all the rebound settings eliminates most of this bouncing :) Not all of it, but you can at least keep it on the track. Now this is just with the GT3RS Porsche at Road America, but I'm guessing it will work for most other cars as well. I know this doesn't sound right, as maximizing the rebound would seem to make it worse :confused: but it worked for me. I got so frustrated with the bouncing, I just stopped working on levelling up and sat here for the past 1.5 hours and have been tinkering around. Some of you tuners out there (NLxAROSA, etc.) try this out and see what you think 👍 I suck at tuning, so maybe you can improve on this.


Obviously it's the suspension upgrades and you sort of expect it when you add a better (more flexible) suspension to a weight reduced chassis. What I find is that including the Sway Bars, I'd keep most of the spring settings especially rebounds on the stiffer sides. Unlike GT5P, where the suspension seems almost non-existence (eg. the big jump at Eiger), SHIFT may err on the side of exeggeration but it's there. Once you upgrade some of the cars (that allows it) to full Works, the suspension becomes better behaved.
 
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I have not been able to get my S2000 to Works yet, bought an R35 V-spec instead. From what you guys are saying; you go from a normal car, add on Stage 1 parts, notice the car has better all around performance, and then go for the gusto and throw on Stages 2 & 3 that turn the car into a hunk of high speed rubber, then adding the works package brings the car back to what would be "normal" handling ;)


Watching the Motegi Indy 300...
 
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