Logitech G Pro Racing Wheel

Turboracer
Still searching for the right tuning with GT7.
Feeling slides and locking them in a drift seems to be pretty hard.
As if 1080 degrees is far too much. Might try 540 or 270.

GT7 defaults the GPRO to 900. Asseto pushes the correct/corresponding degrees for each car.
I now think that is actually essential for a correct corresponding look on screen and feel of car.
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Personally, I have the torque / sensitivity in GT7 maxed, and then just do the adjustment with the wheel.

There is a balance to be found between FFB Torque, and Dampener.

Too much torque vs dampener, and the wheel will whip immediately to the right angle to correct, this is helpful for drifting but is a little unrealistic outside of very specific car set-ups...

Too much dampener vs torque, and the wheel will not rotate quickly enough to correct, it'll rotate say at the speed of a G25 or something, which equally is unrealistic.

For me, some rough settings are say 6.5Nm ~ 30 dampener. 8.5Nm ~ 45 dampener (this is what I use mostly) and above that around 50 dampener.

I have the ingame vibration setting (hidden in a different menu you can't get to during a race) at 20 I think (which is low) but then have TF set at 100 on the wheel. This means you don't get any excessive 'hum' from engine noise but do get a hint of 'noise' which to me is like the road feel you get in a hydraulic steering system, but you get a nice amount of rumble strip vibration, which is particularly immersive in VR.

Finally, I also have the FFB Filter set at 15 (max!) because for me this tuned out that weird understeer vibration / wobble that seems baked into the game and to me is not remotely realistic.

I always run at 1080*.

EDIT:

Will also say, each time I connect the wheel to GT7, I run through and re-set all of these settings, because GT7 overrides them when it detects the wheel.

Oh and with that high FFB Filter setting, you get some FFB wobble that builds up over the play time that you have to restart the wheel to clear. Irritating, but not game breaking!
 
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Igano
I remember some wheels in the past could change the degrees on the fly ( I think it was Thrustmaster), is this possible for the G PRO? If not can you change the degrees in general or is it only defined by the game?
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That's exactly what the Angle setting on the OLED is for - on the fly adjustment. However, it's worth noting that most titles already do the work internally to adjust things so that you get 1:1 matching of in-game wheel with your actual wheel (which is generally what you want); you leave the wheel at its default max and the game does it for you. The Angle setting is only normally needed if you want to make the wheel more sensitive (or, in NFS Unbound's case, less sensitive as I found the default angle that it sets to be a bit too twitchy).

@Sturdy A quick note here on wheel settings vs. in-game settings. At the moment, GT7 is enforcing its own settings when the game starts up, so for Strength and TF Audio, whatever you have set on the wheel is not what's actually happening. That Vibration setting of 20 is what you're actually getting, not the 100 that's on the wheel - if you were to make a single value change on the wheel then that will take over and you'll notice it being much louder :-)

Dampener is not affected by this though.
 
LOGI_Rich
(load cell) you still appreciate the level of control that they offer
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As a matter of interest which elastomers do you use? Although not rig mounted my pedals are securely attached to a raised frame which is braced against a wall. As per your video recommendations to prevent wear I've swapped out the softer elastomers to the red and yellow ones (plus the harder small one). I'm finding that I'm having to dial down the brake force quite a bit to get a good press and better control on the pedal. I might swap back to the softer ones for a try.
It's probably because I'm so used to position based pedals. This might need more time to adjust to than the wheel itself.


A quick G Pro update. I had it last Friday but because the pedals were slightly delayed I've only just got everything running!

I've swapped my clutch and brake pedals around as per this picture. I find it much more comfortable for longer stints, plus I can apply more pressure on that brake.
IMG_20230223_163232_262~2.jpg

I left foot brake and I don't use the clutch all that often (I've no shifter) but it can be useful on starts. Although I do now have paddles of course.
(One thing @LOGI_Rich. You could do with a longer cable on the brake to achieve better customisation. The current cable length slightly limits positioning)

Games I've tried so far.
Project Cars 2, the game I run my leagues in and I'm very used to - okay but not a great improvement over my G29. There's a lot of oscillation, even just standing stationary! I need to spend more time with this to try and get that feeling better. Probably much more dampener needed - although that will dull the rest of the feedback.
Project Cars 3 - you'd think this would be the same but this is actually the opposite and it's really very good, and I think that's because it supports Trueforce. The upgraded feedback combined with the added audio effects really shine. This will become a favourite.
ACC and Dirt 2 to try. I haven't got GT7, although I may give it a go sometime.

Overall I'm quite impressed so far. I've got to start working out a bit so that I can turn the Nm up and press the brake. 😀
If I can get PC2 sorted out that'll be a bonus.
 
LOGI_Rich
@Sturdy A quick note here on wheel settings vs. in-game settings. At the moment, GT7 is enforcing its own settings when the game starts up, so for Strength and TF Audio, whatever you have set on the wheel is not what's actually happening. That Vibration setting of 20 is what you're actually getting, not the 100 that's on the wheel - if you were to make a single value change on the wheel then that will take over and you'll notice it being much louder :-)

Dampener is not affected by this though.
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@LOGI_Rich thanks for confirming, I did feel that GT7 was enforcing some settings when it detects the wheel (i.e. if I power cycle the wheel, once I hit PS logo and register it, GT7 applies its settings) and so it's just part of my routine currently to register the wheel and then cycle through the strength, audio and angle settings to set it back to how I actually want it!

One thing that reminds me of, adjusting the wheel settings with the thumb wheel and button is very responsive and accurate. Using the thumb wheel in GT7 to adjust the MFD is... neither of those things :lol:

Obviously that's a PD / GT7 thing as your hardware clearly works well, just curious if this has been picked up by others?
 
I must be doing something wrong. Tested the recommended settings. Fiddled around with other users settings.
Did my own tuning. Nothing feels real with GT7. No feel for drifts/slides. It is just impossible to do some realistic counter steering.
When you lose it it's just gone and no feedback whatsoever.
Actually GT7 Forcefeedback with GPRO en PSVR could be great.
The lack of feel and a certain "latency" of the GT7 GPRO combination / calibration makes things "off" for me.
I'll do the recommended settings once more. Could this be the FF implementation of GT7?
I remember having a real blast sliding, correcting and feeling the car with:

  • PC2+Fanatec CSL Elite on pc with ocolus
  • Driveclub + Thrustmaster on ps4 tvmode

The GPRO is quality for sure.
The feel with GT7 is just far from realistic once the car goes in to a slide or weight transfer..
Or..did the GT7 1.29 update screwup the FF implementation again?
 
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@IfAndOr At a desk I use the softer small foam piece, with the large foam and red elastomer. On a rig it's the hard small foam piece with red and brown. It will take a bit of time to get truly used to the difference with a load cell, but you should quickly realise that it's so much easier to consistently apply the same level of pressure to achieve a specific amount of braking than it was to hit the same amount of pedal travel with a movement-based system. But don't conflate the feel of the pedal with the brake force setting. Change the feel of the pedal to something that feels right to you and then dial the brake force setting in.

@Sturdy Yes, Polyphony have worked on it as it was originally not usable at all (you would just get min and max adjustment of settings with it being very hard to get anything inbetween). It could possibly do with some further tweaking so we'll mention it to them.

@Turboracer There's no changes that I'm aware of in the new patch; I was catching slides just fine yesterday whilst racing against Sophy. Try using the in-game settings that I've recommended on the site. Having the vibration at 35 works for me to make sure I can feel the tyre scrub without it overwhelming everything else. Remember that if you then go and change anything on the wheel then those settings on the wheel will apply instead!
 
Thanks @LOGI_Rich.
I think I need to make sure I do it in the right order. Will go back to your recommended settings.
So boot up PS5 -> Power on GPRO -> Boot up GT7 -> Change settings on wheel to override GT7 pushed settings.
->Race!
 
Actually at the moment whilst GT7 is overriding settings, you might prefer to just adjust the in-game settings because then they'll still be the same when you next boot the game up. Changing the Dampener on the wheel shouldn't cause the wheel settings to override the game settings, so you can still tune that if you need to.
 
LOGI_Rich
But don't conflate the feel of the pedal with the brake force setting. Change the feel of the pedal to something that feels right to you and then dial the brake force setting in.
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Gotcha. So with my desk mount but with securely braced pedals the yellow and red should be about right. I'll persevere. 👍

As usual, thanks for your continued help on this thread.


One thing I forgot to add. There should be a label on the pedal set saying, in big letters, "Don't forgot to plug in the USB cable before bolting the pedals down to their base. Idiot!" It might have saved a "Ah!" moment has I held on to the cable followed by a lot of muttering. 🙂
 
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@LOGI_Rich, are you sure it's 100% GT overriding settings with that in game vibration setup?

As I say, I re-set the wheel settings every time so arguably my wheel settings have overriden what GT7 is doing.

My TF Audio is at 100, so you'd imagine I'd get comical engine vibration and so on and so forth, but this simply isn't the case. I found setting the in game vibration setting is almost like what level of TrueForce 'effects' are produced from the game, and then the TF Audio setting on the wheel is the strength / amplitude of those settings.

At 20 - 25, I get almost none of the engine vibration, which is what I wanted, but still get the rumble strip feedback. Changing the TF Audio setting on the wheel I still don't get any strong engine vibration, but can turn down the strength of the rumble vibration for example.

Whereas if I set in game vibration at 75, the wheel is vibrating away like a lunatic with engine vibration etc., and the TF Audio setting on the wheel again just adjusts the strength of these existing vibrations.

I was quite systematic trying the different in game vibration settings, 100 was ridiculous, 0 there was nothing, so I started from 0 and worked up, trying TF Audio on the wheel from 0 - 50 - 100 each time to try and understand what the settings did, I think there's more happening with the vibration setting than just GT overriding the wheel until you tweak TF Audio and then that overrides...

@Turboracer there's got to be something in the settings if you're not able to catch slides or feel the car rotating etc. VR makes it all the easier, but even pancake there is so much information coming from the wheel about the front wheels and the rotation of the rear.

My guess would be the Force Feedback settings in GT7 are at 1 / 1 as this makes it feel very empty in feedback and with no strength even if the wheel is at 11Nm.
 
LOGI_Rich
Actually at the moment whilst GT7 is overriding settings, you might prefer to just adjust the in-game settings because then they'll still be the same when you next boot the game up.
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Which in-game settings are you referring to, Rich? Torque and FF?

Sturdy
I have the ingame vibration setting (hidden in a different menu you can't get to during a race) at 20 I think
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Where in GT7 menu do you do this?

LOGI_Rich
@Sturdy A quick note here on wheel settings vs. in-game settings. At the moment, GT7 is enforcing its own settings when the game starts up, so for Strength and TF Audio, whatever you have set on the wheel is not what's actually happening. That Vibration setting of 20 is what you're actually getting, not the 100 that's on the wheel - if you were to make a single value change on the wheel then that will take over and you'll notice it being much louder :-)
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Where in GT7 do I find iun game settings for strength and TF audio? Or are these just the usual torque and FF settings, being called by other names?

Today when I booted up, I had a godawful vibration. I had adjusted the Playseat and thought that was the cause. Eventually I played with the wheel settings and realised that as soon as I adjusted the TF audio the problem went away. I guess this is what you're referring to above? GT7 had automatically overridden by profile settings and it needed me to make a small adjustment to make my profile settings once agaion active. If this is true, then which GT7 setting would it have been that over-rode my TF audio setting of 35?
 
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@Sturdy Ah yes, you're right. It looks like they have changed this in the 1.29 update because when I was testing this exact scenario last week, it definitely was acting like I described. As things are now, the in-game settings are setting the upper limit with the wheel settings then acting as a slider within those limits, as you say.

@CustomX Strength on the wheel is equivalent to the Max Torque option in the pause menu when you're on the track. TF Audio on the wheel is the equivalent of the Vibration setting in-game. To access that one you'll need to go to the option menu at the top left when you're on the World Map. Go to the controllers tab once you've opened the options and then select the Vibration option. Change the vibration level there down to 35 and things get a lot more reasonable (and won't get overridden next time you start GT7).
 
Nice to have this forum and Rich involved. So as of 1.29:

Angle is set by gt7 at 1080 and will override Gpro setting. Even though Gpro shows 900 degrees.

Torque is set by gt7 setting (1-10) and will override nm setting in gpro

Vibration/Rumble setting (main menu)in gt7 is master limit. Gpro 0-100 tf audio will be finetune of rumble setting

Damper is Gpro setting and will remain unaffected by gt7 once tuned on wheel.

Ff filter is GPro setting and will remain unaffected by gt7 once tuned on wheel.

So basically set GT7 settings once how you like it. Set Gpro settings once how you like it.

And all is good to play without the need for re-tuning every time you play.

Correct?

Thanks champs👊
Hopefully will be drifting as a pro soon in vr:)
 
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Turboracer
Nice to have this forum and Rich involved. So as of 1.29:

Angle is set by gt7 at 1080 and will override Gpro setting. Even though Gpro shows 900 degrees.

Torque is set by gt7 setting (1-10) and will override nm setting in gpro

Vibration/Rumble setting (main menu)in gt7 is master limit. Gpro 0-100 tf audio will be finetune of rumble setting

Damper is Gpro setting and will remain unaffected by gt7 once tuned on wheel.

Ff filter is GPro setting and will remain unaffected by gt7 once tuned on wheel.

So basically set GT7 settings once how you like it. Set Gpro settings once how you like it.

And all is good to play without the need for re-tuning every time you play.

Correct?

Thanks champs👊
Hopefully will be drifting as a pro soon in vr:)
Click to expand...
Screenshotted this, hopefully you nailed it on exactly how it works.
 
Anybody have the mounting bolt spacing for the Logitech G Pro Wheel?

I tried to find it online but the manual just shows the bolt size. I figured while I wait for the wheel to be delivered I can get my rig setup in the meantime. I just have my G923 clamp mounted to my homemade rig, I want to bolt the G Pro down. I just need a template but can’t find one.

Nevermind finally found it.

 
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Here’s a quick review. Bought the adapter to run the G923 pedals. Not recognizing them. Nothing in the display on the wheel. It’s like the pedals don’t exist.
 
Rich, i ended up doing what you recommended for the Playseat Challenge. Bought the mount plate closer to driver to enable use of 3 bolts. Adjusted the Challenge’s driving position. You’re right it can be adjusted by loosening the wide straps and putting the driver further from wheel. It felt ok at first and actually felt fine while driving but unfortunately I’ve got quite a bit of lower back pain after driving like this for a few hours. Do you have similar issues with your Challenge? Any adjustment tips?
 
The only other thing you can try is to adjust the straps for the edge of the seat that sits under your thighs and the strap that controls the overall depth of the seat.
 
LOGI_Rich
@hawkeyez Have you updated the firmware of the wheel? There’s also an update for the adapter, although that’s less essential, but the wheel must be updated in order for the adapter to work.
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A friend suggested maybe it needs an update, I was dreading that because my laptop is from 2009 and it’s garbage, and I was right, took me two hours to finally install G hub and update lol
 
Turboracer
Just did a few races with the recommended settings. Very nice. Really happy with it now. Psvr2 really tops it of. Love it.
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Can you post the recommended settings? For GT7.

Controller Sensitivity ______
Controller Vibration _____
FFB Torque ______
FFB Sensitivity ______

and the wheel settings…. I did find a chart on I think the Logitech website that I can use or go bye.
 
InThaHouse
@LOGI_Rich is it normal for accelerator to have left to rigth movement, it is especially when I modulate accelerator I notice it.
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I notice this for both my throttle and brake, not much but enough slight left right movement that I double checked that they are mounted to the pedal board tight, and they are.
 

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