Logitech G Pro Racing Wheel

Still no Trueforce after WRC patch. Is this just never going to be on Xbox now? After F1 23, Forza and WRC (which has Trueforce on PC and PS5) I'm starting to believe it's just not going to be on any more Xbox games. I don't expect it to be in every game, but if the game features it on other platforms it's a pretty major feature missing fro Xbox.
 
@Jumboboy Okay at this point (and don't take this the wrong way) we have to check what your experience/expectations of Trueforce are, because other than the known issue of it not working if the Vibration is set to 130 or higher (it's in Polyphony's known issues list) there's no issue with Trueforce.

Obvious examples are the rumble strips and tyre scrub when pushing too hard through a corner, but also the track surface and engine note. If you adjust the TF Audio down to 0 once in the car and then increase it to 100 do you notice any difference at all?

The other question is whether you've tested it in other titles - ACC, EA WRC, Dirt Rally 2.0, GRID etc. - to see if it's still functioning there?


@waral It's better to make a choice as to which dampener you're using - game or wheel - because if you have too much dampener applied then it can create unwanted responses/feelings in the wheel. As for dampener to torque relativity yes, you could keep it proportional, but it really is down to feel so start with the proportional adjustment and then tweak from there.
Okay, first on Dirt 2 nothing.
Then tried G923 mode there was TureForce.
Then after reversed it to normal there are TrueForce on Dirt 2 now.
Hope has raised.
Then on GT7 still nothing.
Put it in G923 nothing.
Back again and still nothing on GT7
 
@remjohn I can't speak for developers but unless they've outright said that they won't support Trueforce on Xbox (as is the case with F1 23) the book is not necessarily closed.

@Jumboboy That's... confusing. I assume you've tried every USB port on the PS5?
 
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@remjohn I can't speak for developers but unless they've outright said that they won't support Trueforce on Xbox (as is the case with F1 23) the book is not necessarily closed.

@Jumboboy That's... confusing. I assume you've tried every USB port on the PS5?
Have just tried the second port on the back first it though it was a G923 and went bananas with oscillation and max torque.
Then after restart of the base it's the same as before.
 
One game with non-functioning Trueforce does not indicate a faulty wheel. The slight oddness with the unplug/replug could be any number of things, especially if you were actually in-game at the time that you did it.

I’m going to have to recommend that you wait for Polyphony to patch GT7 and then see what the behaviour is. For additional troubleshooting you could download the GRID (2019) demo from the PSN store and see if Trueforce is working in that. I forgot to mention F1 23 in that game list above as well, so if you have that then that’s another title to test.
 
One game with non-functioning Trueforce does not indicate a faulty wheel. The slight oddness with the unplug/replug could be any number of things, especially if you were actually in-game at the time that you did it.

I’m going to have to recommend that you wait for Polyphony to patch GT7 and then see what the behaviour is. For additional troubleshooting you could download the GRID (2019) demo from the PSN store and see if Trueforce is working in that. I forgot to mention F1 23 in that game list above as well, so if you have that then that’s another title to test.
Is there any movement on PD's side that youre aware of?
 
Hi guys, new in the forum but long time reader.
I have read a lot about the cracking noises of the Logitech Wheel. I have decided to record my wheel.
What do you think about these ones? Should I send it back under the warranty?
I bought it in June, only 87 hours of use.
My old Logitech G29 sounded much better.






 
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Hi guys, new in the forum but long time reader.
I have read a lot about the cracking noises of the Logitech Wheel. I have decided to record my wheel.
What do you think about these ones? Should I send it under the warranty?
I bought it in June, only 87 hours of use.
My old Logitech G29 sounded much better.







Definitely not normal, mine is completely silent.
 
Hi @Danallstars.
It's difficult to tell the direction of the noise from the videos, but that sounds more like the wheel (or the quick release) than the base. Is it silent when turning the wheel with the base is turned off?
 
Definitely not normal, mine is completely silent.

@rAtey Thanks for the info. What are your Torque and Strength settings?


Hi @Danallstars.
It's difficult to tell the direction of the noise from the videos, but that sounds more like the wheel (or the quick release) than the base. Is it silent when turning the wheel with the base is turned off?
Hi! @IfAndOr yes, I will say it is silence when the base is turned off. Just the normal friction sound of the wheel and the base.
 
These are two examples of the wheel and the base disconnected.
In one of them, it is the base on but without the wheel engage.
The second one is everything turned off.




 
These are two examples of the wheel and the base disconnected.

It could well be the spring inside the quick release that's making that sound as it turns.

Try this: remove the wheel and place it face down. Inside the QR you'll see an internal sleeve, using a couple of fingers on either side press this down. The external black collar with move outwards and you'll see the ball bearings pop out*. Rotate the black collar around half a turn. You should see the spring underneath rotate at the same time. Push the black collar fully back towards the wheel to reset it, and fit the wheel back on the base. Check to see if the noise has changed. Actually gone hopefully.
(Another trick is to rotate the coller while using a flat bladed screwdriver to stop the spring turning with it. They end up in different positions that way)

Probably not recommend by Rich, but I put a little synthetic grease around where the spring rotates. This seems to have helped. Ideally there should be a shim between the spring and the metal of the wheel.

*Not literally pop out of the wheel, just move outwards a little. 😉
 
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Hi guys, new in the forum but long time reader.
I have read a lot about the cracking noises of the Logitech Wheel. I have decided to record my wheel.
What do you think about these ones? Should I send it back under the warranty?
I bought it in June, only 87 hours of use.
My old Logitech G29 sounded much better.







I had that exact issue and posted videos on here too a few months back - do an RMA and get it replaced - its faulty for sure. I did try all sort of fixes before I did my RMA but to no avail thus got a replacement.
 
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It could well be the spring inside the quick release that's making that sound as it turns.

Try this: remove the wheel and place it face down. Inside the QR you'll see an internal sleeve, using a couple of fingers on either side press this down. The external black collar with move outwards and you'll see the ball bearings pop out*. Rotate the black collar around half a turn. You should see the spring underneath rotate at the same time. Push the black collar fully back towards the wheel to reset it, and fit the wheel back on the base. Check to see if the noise has changed. Actually gone hopefully.
(Another trick is to rotate the coller while using a flat bladed screwdriver to stop the spring turning with it. They end up in different positions that way)

Probably not recommend by Rich, but I put a little synthetic grease around where the spring rotates. This seems to have helped. Ideally there should be a shim between the spring and the metal of the wheel.

*Not literally pop out of the wheel, just move outwards a little. 😉
Thanks for the input. I will take a look into the wheel but don't want to touch anything just to not break the warranty.
Hope @LOGI_Rich can clarify me a little bit about the procedure.
I had that exact issue and posted videos on here too a few months back - do an RMA and get it replaced - its faulty for sure. I did try all sort of fixes before I did my RMA but to no avail thus got a replacement.
Hi @bokspeed , I just opened a ticket, this is what I received " t seems that you have been misrouted for you have contacted Logitech Sales Support. What I will do is transfer your ticket to Logitech Technical support for you to be assisted further and they will be contacting you through email. Kindly do wait for the next email response from our Logitech Technical representative within 24-48 business hours."

To make it work without that much cracking noises, I have to lower the Strength of the wheel down to 3NM or so. :(
 
There's nothing warranty-breaking in what @IfAndOr suggested - it's just adjusting the relative alignment of the spring and the QR collar - definitely worth a try. Also, to further isolate where it's coming from, if you turn the wheel to the hard stop with the wheel off and then keep turning against that hard stop (not excessively - just enough to apply some opposing force to the direction you're turning) do you still hear the noise? If you do then it could be from within the wheel rim itself.
 
It could well be the spring inside the quick release that's making that sound as it turns.

Try this: remove the wheel and place it face down. Inside the QR you'll see an internal sleeve, using a couple of fingers on either side press this down. The external black collar with move outwards and you'll see the ball bearings pop out*. Rotate the black collar around half a turn. A
@IfAndOr I tried that and it seems it improved a little bit. Now the cracking are softer than before. Still there but less noisy for now.

There's nothing warranty-breaking in what @IfAndOr suggested - it's just adjusting the relative alignment of the spring and the QR collar - definitely worth a try. Also, to further isolate where it's coming from, if you turn the wheel to the hard stop with the wheel off and then keep turning against that hard stop (not excessively - just enough to apply some opposing force to the direction you're turning) do you still hear the noise? If you do then it could be from within the wheel rim itself.
@LOGI_Rich Ok, thanks, as I wrote before, adjusting o "reseting" the alignment of the spring and the QR collar seems to improve a little the cracking noises. I also low the Strength to 6-8 NM.
Could be a spring alignment problem?


Torque is on 10nm on the wheel, 8/10 ingame giving me around 6nm in GT7. The other setting (can't remember the name) is on 100.



As you can(t) hear, mine is completely silent.

@rAtey Thanks for the video, that shows something completely different to mine.
 
I will take a look into the wheel but don't want to touch anything just to not break the warranty.
That's understandable. But as you've seen the method I mentioned is all external, there's no disassembly involved, so you're not touching anything that can't be easily accessed.

If it's improved it a little you could try that extra step I mentioned, stopping the spring rotating while turning the collar. That's if you haven't tried that already.
 
There's nothing warranty-breaking in what @IfAndOr suggested - it's just adjusting the relative alignment of the spring and the QR collar - definitely worth a try. Also, to further isolate where it's coming from, if you turn the wheel to the hard stop with the wheel off and then keep turning against that hard stop (not excessively - just enough to apply some opposing force to the direction you're turning) do you still hear the noise? If you do then it could be from within the wheel rim itself.
@LOGI_Rich I tried to turn the wheel to the stop end with the wheel off and keep against the hard stop but not any kind of cracking sounds or weird noises coming up from the wheel.

That's understandable. But as you've seen the method I mentioned is all external, there's no disassembly involved, so you're not touching anything that can't be easily accessed.

If it's improved it a little you could try that extra step I mentioned, stopping the spring rotating while turning the collar. That's if you haven't tried that already.

@IfAndOr No, I didn't.I will give a try with some grease or vaseline. It makes some sense that the noise could come from the spring forcing the collar when turning the wheel when some strength is applied to the wheel from the base.
 
Hello good morning

Yesterday I got my new and first dd steering wheel, it's a lot of new things I'm experimenting with, and I'm struggling to know which option does what apart from the torque.

I have configurador the steering wheel from ps5 I have not yet connected to the pc

Torque 11nm
FF audio 10
Dumper 0
Filter ff 11 I don't know what function this does.
The rest untouched

I'm playing a lot of wrc and I don't understand how the steering wheel can be so uncontrollable, I would like it to be more real but not so wild and some crazy stuff.

Could someone tell me what does it mean and what does each option do? So that I can drive as fast as possible in any car game.

I'm spanish and my english is bad, I use deelp

Translated with www.DeepL.com/Translator (free version)
 
Could someone tell me what does it mean and what does each option do?
Hi Chato.

Here is a link to the Logitech website that has a lot of useful information.

It's in English so using DeepL here is the translation.
Filtro de Force Feedback

Esto te permite ajustar una configuración de filtro que puede ayudar a reducir los efectos no deseados de los títulos del juego. Los valores más altos producirán una sensación de volante más suave, mientras que los valores más bajos crearán una experiencia más "cruda"; todo es cuestión de preferencia personal. El ajuste Auto suele crear la experiencia más ideal cuando se intenta ajustar el filtro a la velocidad a la que el título del juego actualiza su Force Feedback.

Amortiguador

Un volante de tracción directa puede ser increíblemente sensible, lo que puede hacer que algunos títulos den la sensación de que el volante se mueve demasiado rápido en respuesta a los efectos del juego. Añadir amortiguación ayudará a aliviar esto y también puede ayudar a recrear la sensación que obtienes en un coche real donde todos los componentes que contribuyen a la sensación que obtienes del volante (neumáticos, suspensión, etc.).

Lo ideal es ajustar el amortiguador lo más bajo posible para obtener la máxima respuesta del volante. Sin embargo, en algunos títulos notará que si suelta el volante mientras está en línea recta empezará a oscilar rápidamente a izquierda y derecha. Nuestra recomendación es que no sueltes el volante en ningún momento. Si lo sueltas y el volante empieza a oscilar, pausa el juego antes de intentar cogerlo para evitar lesiones.

Audio TF

Ajusta la ganancia de los efectos vibrotáctiles enviados al volante en los títulos que utilizan Trueforce. Por lo general, se recomienda ajustarlo a un nivel que permita señales sutiles en lugar de abrumar la experiencia general.

Traducción realizada con la versión gratuita del traductor www.DeepL.com/Translator


I'd think you might need some damper added to make the wheel more controllable. Below are Logi Rich's recommended starting settings for WRC
Screenshot_2023-11-10-12-37-53-127.jpg


Wheel
Strength: 11Nm
FFB Filter: 8
Dampener: 15
Angle: 1080 (remember to calibrate in-game)
 
Hi All,

I own the Logitech G pro wheel since October 2022 and in June 2023 the D pad (on the top left of the wheel) started getting less responsive. Left, up and right were working properly but down was not responsive, I needed to put really hard pressure until it reacted on the screen. So I created a warranty ticket and got a replacement wheel. Now 4/5 months further exactly the same problem occurs again. It's again the down D pad which is not responsive.

The funny thing is that I'm really careful with all my products and don't use that D pad on the wheel that much. I always take the controller to navigate which I found more easier. So, I really don't understand why this occurs for the second time again. Anyone having the same issue?

The wheel is mounted to the official Logitech Playseat trophy chair. The power is always plugged in and it is situated in my bedroom. So, no damp room or whatsoever. Latest software is installed.

@LOGI_Rich Do you have any idea why this can occur two times in both cases after approx. half a year?

Thanks!

Regards,
Umit
 
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unless they've outright said that they won't support Trueforce on Xbox (as is the case with F1 23) the book is not necessarily closed
Did F1 '23 abandon us? After a brief TF appearance on Xbox they won't re-add it? Was just testing this free weekend to see if it had been fixed yet assuming it must be but couldn't see it. Won't be buying that then.

Doesn't fill me with hope for WRC.
 
Well, I've been testing certain configurations, both as those that you have passed me and those that I have been testing myself.

These are my settings

FFB: on
Torque: between 40 and 50
Wheel friction: 30
Type friction: 25
Suspension: 25 or 30
Type slip: 20 or 25
Engine: 5
Collision: 5
Soft lock: 100
Steering center: off

All settins trueforce in 10 or 15

This setting seems to me lighter even when running on asphalt, you feel the inertias of the car more or less real.

On the steering wheel I have

Torque: 11nm
Tf audio 10
Ffb filter: 11
Dumper: off
Rotation: 1080º Rotation: 1080º

Please let me know how it goes and your impressions if you use my settings.
I noticed that if you set the ffb to more than 50% in the game, it feels too heavy and hard to drive, I refuse to think it is a realistic feeling.

My settings are as close to a real car as you can get.

Settings for EA sport WRC 23


Translated with www.DeepL.com/Translator (free version)
 
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I just got myself a g pro.

Like it a lot. But I have a question. I play GT7.

The feedback feels really nice but I’d like it to be a bit stiffer when starting to turn the wheel. Now it goes from very soft, almost wobbly, to really stiff when cornering harder. Is there a setting that governs at what resistance the turning starts at?
 
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Did F1 '23 abandon us? After a brief TF appearance on Xbox they won't re-add it? Was just testing this free weekend to see if it had been fixed yet assuming it must be but couldn't see it. Won't be buying that then.

Doesn't fill me with hope for WRC.
I think Trueforce is dead on Xbox. Doesn't seem anyone is adding it now.
 
I think Trueforce is dead on Xbox. Doesn't seem anyone is adding it now.
It seems that way....
No doubt a sour taste in the mouths for those who own the Xbox wheel.
But hey folks dont worry, all that money you spent on the wheel, support *might come, err maybe, just wait and see and be happy...

Drive To Win!



*F1 related promo but come on, did you not see it was the PS wheel version.


Another example that makes a mockery of the "Fail Force" situation

Great job by the marketing team in producing this video, with key employees. Yet all their scripted taglines, the details and storytelling. So impressive but tell me. How many new titles in the last year for Xbox have been properly supported with True Force?



Logitech, what a mess....
With better title support and more control of "individual effects" on AAA titles, this could have been so, so much better.
Money has a way of talking, and Logitech is not a small company, if it was in developers intere$t then we would see better support, as money matters to companies.

This is what annoys me the most we get told here its just down to developers decisions. So is it nothing to do with money then, or potentially exclusive deals/arrangements being put in place with studios/developers with manufacturers?

Even from PC/PS5 perspective, I have seen nothing much, in a year with major racing titles released, that shows me or encourages me I made a great purchase or that I should hold on to this wheel. Did we see any major improvements for the product regards GT7 in updates or other titles seeing improvements?

I expect a lot of people will be watching with interest to see how Fanatec compete with their new hardware. They at least have said support is on-going for GT7 on PS5, i-racing and I think ACC to be amongst their first titles to be supported.


Thoughts / Future Perspective ?
It seems, all Fanatec, have to do is offer a similar experience to TF and have more developers support their brand/product$$$. Based on, if thats what is required/happening. The GT PRO could likely be defeated as Fanatec also have the benefits with additional rims and accessories. We will soon also see if the new Fanatec wheel supports its full 15Nmn with GT7 and possibly before any update (if it happens at all) for the GT Pro. I am not so sure, this issue with the GT PRO is just a "safety related factor" or potentially linked with competition with companies and agreements put in place favouring a particular brand/product?

"Since it was founded in 1997, Fanatec has made numerous innovations in sim racing technology, including popularizing belt-driven force feedback, introducing load cell sensors and contactless magnetic sensors on mass-market pedals, and launching the first direct drive system for the PlayStation®4 system. Furthering its expertise through partnerships with leading car manufacturers and international racing series, Fanatec has become an integral part of modern motorsports. In 2021, the company announced plans to develop racing peripherals with cutting-edge force feedback technology through a partnership with Gran Turismo."

With respect, I'm not convinced a Logitech employee is going to tell us the "whole story" or put himself in a position that discourages sales for the company he works for. However what we have is a situation that isn't fully satisfying and if a poll was made I would expect most owners of this wheel to be in some ways let down or a little disappointed. Other much smaller companies can also release multiple hardware products in a year or so. Therefore, I dont accept that Logitech has needed so long to at least offer 1 or 2 more rim options. Yet we still do not even have any confirmation that a rally or formula based rim is in the works and that is rather lackluster on Logitechs part.

Several DD wheels perform well, or have wheel rim options, So is their much point buying a Logitech PRO wheel with a specific feature, even if that is an exclusive feature, if that company does not manage to get developers to support it in AAA titles for the supported platforms. With a competitor, soon looking to do similar, well I wonder how things will pan out in the upcoming months and year....

Forza Motorsport 8 / Late?
I also found it mind blowing that the new Forza Motorsport did not come with True Force support. As surely if any title you would want your hardware to support on Xbox/PC would have been this one? What we don't know, is if an agreement could not have been reached with Logitech. Is it related in any way, regards Fanatec who have had a history of working with T10 Microsoft in the past.

Well who knows, but just speculation on my part that FM8 was going to release before Fanatec or even Logitech would of had a product ready? Does it make sense, if two competitor brands will have similar exciting "force/haptic" wheel products/technologies that one of them would want/have something in the works related to Forza? We also know this title will be updated/kept active like GT7 for some period of time.

Wishful thinking perhaps but maybe I need to just cut down the caffine...
 
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hello all,

First time sim racer here. I bought the new Logitech G Pro Racing wheel and pedals set and hook it up to my playstation 5 and trying to play Gran Turismo 7 using the wheels. But I find controlling and manuvering the cars is much harder using the Logitech G Pro Racing wheel compare to using playstation 5 controller. The car just does not seem to turn into corner with good response using the wheel. The problem becomes even more obvious for rally racing cars on dirt roads. What wheel settings are guys using to get the more accurate turning feel using Logitech G Pro Racing wheel? Can anyone share your settings? Thank you!
 
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