Logitech G Pro Racing Wheel

Hi, maybe I am experiencing a new clicking issue with the G Pro Wheel. When I start up the wheel it makes al distinct click sound. When i shut it down it makes a double click sound. It almost sounds like the clicking sound of a computer mouse. During driving I have no issues, just the sound at start up and shut down. My engineering brain thinks that the sound is generated by an electric switch.

It is a different sound that sometimes comes from the QR.

Does anyone has experienced the same sound and any idea to a solution?
 
Constantm
Hi, maybe I am experiencing a new clicking issue with the G Pro Wheel. When I start up the wheel it makes al distinct click sound. When i shut it down it makes a double click sound. It almost sounds like the clicking sound of a computer mouse. During driving I have no issues, just the sound at start up and shut down. My engineering brain thinks that the sound is generated by an electric switch.

It is a different sound that sometimes comes from the QR.

Does anyone has experienced the same sound and any idea to a solution?
Click to expand...
You have a LOGITECH G RACING ADAPTER connected?
 
Eegour
I thought i had read that. But i couldnt find it with the search. Thanks for the reminder. Freakin lame though. Maybe ill have to get the adapter and try the old hairband mod to my old shifter
Click to expand...
If you're not using your clutch you could map the dual clutch paddles to the clutch function using the OLED and then assign them to the handbrake in-game.
 
LOGI_Rich
If you're not using your clutch you could map the dual clutch paddles to the clutch function using the OLED and then assign them to the handbrake in-game.
Click to expand...
Ooohhh thats a clever work around. Thanks Rich. Gonna try that right meow.


Update:
That works great, waayy better than button or pedal. Not as good mind you as a combo H / sequential modular shifter/ handbrake. Modular so you could mount shifter and handbrake as one, or separately, kinda like the pedals eh Rich?
 
Last edited:
Hello,

New Logitech Pro Wheel owner, please could someone recommend the best assists in game to use and wheel settings both in game and on the wheel. I'm using the wheel usually around 5NM to get used to it, also using manual gears.

Thanks in advance.
 
Spikecast
Hello,

New Logitech Pro Wheel owner, please could someone recommend the best assists in game to use and wheel settings both in game and on the wheel. I'm using the wheel usually around 5NM to get used to it, also using manual gears.

Thanks in advance.
Click to expand...
Base: 100
Damper: 30
FFB Filter: 5-10
TF Audio: 100
Wheel Angle: 1080

In-game:
FFB Strenght: 6-7
Sensitivity: 1
TF Audio: 35

Work for me quite nicely for almost all of the car classes / tires.
 
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smeemi
New gt7 update has ruined the feedback even more, can barely feel it now. Wtf are they doing.
Click to expand...
Check that You don´t have the gt7 vibration over 125.
 

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Constantm
125 is a lot! Doesn’t Logitech advice 35 for this setting? I personally prefer 75 as it adds to the immersion in VR.
Click to expand...
150 adds more than 75. 😉 I drive also in vr, and have 5 bass-shakers in the rig. Amps maxed out. There aint anything better than drive an old legendary car around nordschleife with maximum vibrations all over. The old cars just have so incredible engine and chassis vibrations.
 
LOGI_Rich
Have you tried with lower values? Do you definitely have TF Audio set at anything other than 0 on the wheel? Are you runing the latest firmware for the wheel?
Click to expand...
Yes to all of them I used to have TF on 30 but nothing also if I bump it up to 100 still nothing. Checked firmware yesterday all up to date.
 
I sold the steering wheel today, and after the sale, I had contact with the buyer. He called me and asked how to increase the power. I provided him with the recommended settings, explained the difference between the type of car, the tires used, etc. I also mentioned that the game developer intentionally reduced the steering wheel's power.

Half an hour later, I received an SMS saying that it was bothering him, and he finally managed to unlock the full 11 Nm power by simply changing the difficulty level in the game from beginner to intermediate.

Could someone check it on their end and confirm if it works?
 
I'm playing on intermediate lvl since the GT7 was released. If it's true it was recently added and I haven't payed attention to that.

The game / cars / driving experience feels different now in a better way. By meaning better I compare it with the rest of the Sims ACC, AC, rf2, ASM2. I'm not saying it's better than them but way more close. The car feels connected to the road and we are no longer drive on rollers/ ice.

To be honest at the begining my eyes were always on the display watching how much power I have in turns, now I don't care it's just enough to make me happy and I don't watch the display but the track enjoying the game.

The wheel is great and it's the best you can get if you what to race on PS5 so far.
 
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Jumboboy
Yes to all of them I used to have TF on 30 but nothing also if I bump it up to 100 still nothing. Checked firmware yesterday all up to date.
Click to expand...
And you've done all of the obvious? Quit the game, restarted the PS5, only turned the wheel on when you're on the profile select screen and then started the game again?
 
Trickbike36
My adapter makes the same sound.
Click to expand...
So as mine. Recently, I completely forgot about the adaptor and thought the sound was coming from the base when I was switching it on/off or switching it between PC/PS5 with my Hub.
 
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It's because there's a relay switch in there that manages the power switching between analog and digital - on startup it will switch a couple of times. It's the same sound that the turn indicator in older cars makes because they also used a relay switch.
 
LOGI_Rich
And you've done all of the obvious? Quit the game, restarted the PS5, only turned the wheel on when you're on the profile select screen and then started the game again?
Click to expand...
Yes have tried both connecting my wheel on startup of PS5 and in game. Restart of game nd console with no changes.
 
Hi @LOGI_Rich! I've just seen that the recommended settings for the Pro wheel have been updated and include F1 23 now, they feel much better already, thanks! I just have a couple of questions:

1. What is the exact relation between the in-game wheel damper and the wheelbase dampener option? I've noticed that you left the in-game damper at 1 as opposed to F1 22, that's why I'm asking.

2. I prefer to lower the in-game FFB strength a bit and I noticed that you suggest to lower the dampener when lowering the FFB strength. How exactly would recommend to do that? E.g. linearly, i.e. when I set the FFB strength from 100 to 60 then lower the dampener by the same relative amount from 15 to 9? I know that this is really personal preference, I was just wondering what would you suggest.

Thank you!
 
@Jumboboy Okay at this point (and don't take this the wrong way) we have to check what your experience/expectations of Trueforce are, because other than the known issue of it not working if the Vibration is set to 130 or higher (it's in Polyphony's known issues list) there's no issue with Trueforce.

Obvious examples are the rumble strips and tyre scrub when pushing too hard through a corner, but also the track surface and engine note. If you adjust the TF Audio down to 0 once in the car and then increase it to 100 do you notice any difference at all?

The other question is whether you've tested it in other titles - ACC, EA WRC, Dirt Rally 2.0, GRID etc. - to see if it's still functioning there?


@waral It's better to make a choice as to which dampener you're using - game or wheel - because if you have too much dampener applied then it can create unwanted responses/feelings in the wheel. As for dampener to torque relativity yes, you could keep it proportional, but it really is down to feel so start with the proportional adjustment and then tweak from there.
 
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LOGI_Rich
@Jumboboy Okay at this point (and don't take this the wrong way) we have to check what your experience/expectations of Trueforce are, because other than the known issue of it not working if the Vibration is set to 130 or higher (it's in Polyphony's known issues list) there's no issue with Trueforce.

Obvious examples are the rumble strips and tyre scrub when pushing too hard through a corner, but also the track surface and engine note. If you adjust the TF Audio down to 0 once in the car and then increase it to 100 do you notice any difference at all?

The other question is whether you've tested it in other titles - ACC, EA WRC, Dirt Rally 2.0, GRID etc. - to see if it's still functioning there?


@waral It's better to make a choice as to which dampener you're using - game or wheel - because if you have too much dampener applied then it can create unwanted responses/feelings in the wheel. As for dampener to torque relativity yes, you could keep it proportional, but it really is down to feel so start with the proportional adjustment and then tweak from there.
Click to expand...
I will try with Dirt 2, when I come home again.
I got the wheel about 6 months ago so have tried both with and without TrueForce. I think it's GT7 problem because the weekend before the last update I played around with the TrueForce and there where no problem detecting when it was 0 30 or 100
 

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