Logitech G Pro Racing Wheel

[ViperJon]

I suspect there will be a new base soon. The old base is called the “DD11” now on the store, which I think is different than previously. I’m really disappointed in my purchase, I wish I had gone for a fuller ecosystem from the start. The wheel is nice but the software isn’t great, compared to others, plus there’s no rims, no shifters (that aren’t toys), and no handbrakes. If I could get away with it, I’d buy a different wheel and pedals today and sell these but the area I live in is hard to sell this kind of gear.

NO, the DD11 is the PC base ONLY, no wheel or pedals. Same base. The fact that they are selling the base and the wheel as separate items is a good sign of things to come IMO.

PRO Racing DD11 Base - Sim Racing Accessories | Logitech G

Shop PRO Racing Base. Features Direct Drive and TRUEFORCE feedback technology, 11 Nm of force, low-latency response, and more

www.logitechg.com

 

[Mateusz90]

Two months after I sold my wheel and I see people are still complaining about the same things as I did.

I've bought a webcam from Logitech for work three months ago. It is good for me, but this review perfectly describes Logitech's approach towards customers:



Watch it and think about your wheel, thing about G25 -> ... -> G923 line for example.

 

[hawkeyez]

Two months after I sold my wheel and I see people are still complaining about the same things as I did.

I've bought a webcam from Logitech for work three months ago. It is good for me, but this review perfectly describes Logitech's approach towards customers:



Watch it and think about your wheel, thing about G25 -> ... -> G923 line for example.

Biggest pet peeve of mine is false advertising. I remember when video games started just showing cutscenes instead of actual gameplay. They still do it. Not exactly false advertising but they purposely make it so your mind fills in the gaps. I do think they should tell G29 and G923 owners or potential buyers. It’s gonna rattle! Haha

 

[Supercededman]

WHEEL
-strength 11.0Nm
-TF Audio 100
-FFB 2
-Dampener 4

GT7
-vibration function 50
-Force Feedback Max Torque 8
-Force Feedback Sensitivity 10

Thats for Comfort tires and Sport tires. Depending on the car, I have a second profile with the Strength at 9.1Nm and the FFB at 7 and the Dampener at 11. That’s for racing tires and some sports soft as the wheel gets uncomfortably heavy for me. But some racing tire cars are fine.
Hope that helps.

Trueforce at 100? I tried this (default?) setting, and it was horrible, IMO, and that of quite a few other YTube reviewers I have watched. Do your vibration settings negate this to a degree? (50 in GT7).

 

[ViperJon]

It is good for me, but this review perfectly describes Logitech's approach towards customers:

Then you should try Fanatec's customer service. Logitech's will seem stellar. I made an inquiry to Fanatec on 12/8 and got a generic response yesterday. Imagine having a warranty issue.

 

[Met Entso]

Then you should try Fanatec's customer service. Logitech's will seem stellar. I made an inquiry to Fanatec on 12/8 and got a generic response yesterday. Imagine having a warranty issue.

This is also true. Me returning the DD Pro was a nightmare.

 

[hawkeyez]

Trueforce at 100? I tried this (default?) setting, and it was horrible, IMO, and that of quite a few other YTube reviewers I have watched. Do your vibration settings negate this to a degree? (50 in GT7).

Pretty sure the Logitech website says wheel TF100, in game 35.

Interestingly they say in game torque at 10 and sensitivity at 1. Maybe I’ll try that. But it’s all personal preference anyway. I’ve seen guys cranking up their G923 to 8 and 10 in game… somebody should really tell them, that wheel can’t handle that, it’s gonna make a lot of noise and it’s just going to clip in the corners anyway. But that’s personal preference at work.

Part of the reason for reducing my FFB filter and Dampener and cranking up in game sensitivity was to try and be able to feel when the car is losing traction sooner. I don’t think it’s really helping. Polyphony Digital has to sort that one out on their end and I hope they do because that’s one factor that’s holding them back from being considered a “real sim”. They updated the physics so the wheel didn’t go heavy anymore when your front tires were slipping and the cars had overall less traction. So they’re getting closer. They just need to sort out that buffer range from grip to slip. There’s not a lot of room for error in that range. I’m exaggerating, but at times, this game feels like you’re either gripping or you’re spinning out if you push it.


…. and yes ViperJon regarding fanatic

I think I emailed Fanatec because I was a bit confused by their website (too many options) you have to assemble a bundle it seems. They never did reply. Every time I’d pick a bundle it would make me build it up again. I was like geez I just want to click on this one it says Gran Turismo and order it but then I have to choose each piece again. I was new to direct drive wheels and didn’t know what it all needed. They simply missed out on me buying a wheel because the website wasn’t allowing me to pick that DD Pro and simply add to cart. Lol. Went to Logitech, here it is, Playstation. Add to cart, grab the adapter for my G923 pedals. Ordered. Logitech for the win.

just checked out the website again, show all bundles, keeps bringing me to home page, finally found ready2race, could be wrong but I think that’s new and that’s what I was looking for. Had I found that I would have ordered one hahahaha

 

[donneratze]

Hi, what Type of RJ Cable is used with the Pro Pedals. I wanted to use a RJ11 Extension to use the Clutch Pedal as a handbrake. But with the Extension pluged in, no pedal input is recognized. Are there different types of RJ11 Cables?

 

[Skinny McLean]

Hi, what Type of RJ Cable is used with the Pro Pedals. I wanted to use a RJ11 Extension to use the Clutch Pedal as a handbrake. But with the Extension pluged in, no pedal input is recognized. Are there different types of RJ11 Cables?

I believe RJ cables come in both both straight-through and crossover configurations, just like serial and Ethernet cables. Logitech's pedal cable is most likely a straight-through.

 

[Met Entso]

Pretty sure the Logitech website says wheel TF100, in game 35.

Interestingly they say in game torque at 10 and sensitivity at 1. Maybe I’ll try that. But it’s all personal preference anyway. I’ve seen guys cranking up their G923 to 8 and 10 in game… somebody should really tell them, that wheel can’t handle that, it’s gonna make a lot of noise and it’s just going to clip in the corners anyway. But that’s personal preference at work.

Part of the reason for reducing my FFB filter and Dampener and cranking up in game sensitivity was to try and be able to feel when the car is losing traction sooner. I don’t think it’s really helping. Polyphony Digital has to sort that one out on their end and I hope they do because that’s one factor that’s holding them back from being considered a “real sim”. They updated the physics so the wheel didn’t go heavy anymore when your front tires were slipping and the cars had overall less traction. So they’re getting closer. They just need to sort out that buffer range from grip to slip. There’s not a lot of room for error in that range. I’m exaggerating, but at times, this game feels like you’re either gripping or you’re spinning out if you push it.

Yes 100 is the recommended setting for TF Audio. I lowered it to 90 to avoid the "skateboard wheel" feeling and it worked.

Also increased in game sensitivity to 10 for the races on wet track but not much difference... I remember a youtuber said that senstivity at 1 gave more detail than at 10, so it's anybody's guess.

 

[hawkeyez]

Yes 100 is the recommended setting for TF Audio. I lowered it to 90 to avoid the "skateboard wheel" feeling and it worked.

Also increased in game sensitivity to 10 for the races on wet track but not much difference... I remember a youtuber said that senstivity at 1 gave more detail than at 10, so it's anybody's guess.

Yeah I’ll have to mess around with GT7 sensitivity. I’ll give that trueforce down to 90 a try. What’s in game set for you?

 

[Met Entso]

Yeah I’ll have to mess around with GT7 sensitivity. I’ll give that trueforce down to 90 a try. What’s in game set for you?

Right now I have:

GAME
Force Feedback Max. Torque 10 (as recommended)
Force Feedback Sensitivity 10 (recommended 1)
Vibration Strength 35 (as recommended)

WHEEL
TF Audio 90 (recommended 100)
FFB Filter 8 (as recommended)
Dampener 15 (as recommended)

Works pretty well except on some "high-frequency" kerbs (where the pieces are smaller) when there's still some "skateboard wheel" feeling but overall giving good feelings and feedback.

 

[LOGI_Rich]

Just remember that whatever the in-game is set to is what's set when you first load into GT7 AND it acts as a cap for anything set on the wheel. So if Vibration is set to 50 then 100 TF Audio on the wheel will just be 50 - it won't push it past up to the 150 that it's possible to set using the in-game setting. The reason we recommend 100 for GT7 is to try and stop people from thinking that the wheel adjustments are making things too weak.

For example,

• TF Audio set to 50 on the OLED before you start the game
• Vibration set to 100 in-game

When you load GT7 then that 100 vibration setting will be active.

If you make a single digit adjustment to TF Audio on the wheel from, say, 50 to 51, then it will immediately cut the vibration to 51, which some people will clearly think is wrong.

 

[hawkeyez]

Just remember that whatever the in-game is set to is what's set when you first load into GT7 AND it acts as a cap for anything set on the wheel. So if Vibration is set to 50 then 100 TF Audio on the wheel will just be 50 - it won't push it past up to the 150 that it's possible to set using the in-game setting. The reason we recommend 100 for GT7 is to try and stop people from thinking that the wheel adjustments are making things too weak.

For example,

• TF Audio set to 50 on the OLED before you start the game
• Vibration set to 100 in-game

When you load GT7 then that 100 vibration setting will be active.

If you make a single digit adjustment to TF Audio on the wheel from, say, 50 to 51, then it will immediately cut the vibration to 51, which some people will clearly think is wrong.

Did I read that wrong? I thought the wheel recommended setting was 100 and in game was 35?

I can’t say I speak for all but I from day one I just assumed you had in game settings and you had wheel settings.

Game settings = Master
Wheel settings = Slave

What got confusing was when you could make a 0.1 adjustment to strength on the wheel and suddenly have way more torque or heaviness in the wheel. That was like what is happening?! But I think that’s been fixed or changed now.

So in my mind I set vibration to 50 in game. I don’t want anymore than 50 at peak, so my wheel is set at 100 to accept all of that 50… on the fly if I want a bit less than 50 I can just reduce on the wheel from 100 down to whatever and that peak of 50 in game now becomes a percentage of whatever I set on my wheel. Like if I set TF on wheel to 75, I’m now getting 75% of that max 50 I had the game set to. I thought that was the reasoning behind having the wheel set to 100 and then adjusting the game to where you like it.

Anyway I just do it this way to be consistent.

PS5>GT7>SIMHUB>SHAKERS>GPRO. Then I race.

I only change profiles on the wheel when I get in a car with race tires and it’s way too heavy. I assumed, when I changed back to profile 1 for comfort and sport tires the wheel would feel the same as it did, before I switched to Profile 2.

 

[lazybasstard]

Strange problem with a brand new Logitech G PRO wheel + pedals. On my first connection it upgraded the firmware and ran fine, I played some AC on the PC and GT7 on my PS5. Today when I tried to connect to my PC it won't show up in GHUB or Device manager. I tried preinstalling GHUB, changed ports, cables, checked the power supply and nothing helped. When connected to the front USB 2.0 ports on my PC, Windows gives me a message that USB device is not recognised. On USB 3.0 ports it says nothing. Tried it on my PS5 and the problem is the same - when I select PS5/PC on the OLED display it starts loading and shuts down after awhile. The thing is when there is no microUSB inserted the wheel detects that and give me a message to plug it in - so I think it's not a hardware problem with the microUSB port. Tried contacting Logitech support, but they didn't help me a bit. Please can somebody help me, I don't want to return it and wait another month + for a replacement.

 

[Met Entso]

Did I read that wrong? I thought the wheel recommended setting was 100 and in game was 35?

I can’t say I speak for all but I from day one I just assumed you had in game settings and you had wheel settings.

Game settings = Master
Wheel settings = Slave

What got confusing was when you could make a 0.1 adjustment to strength on the wheel and suddenly have way more torque or heaviness in the wheel. That was like what is happening?! But I think that’s been fixed or changed now.

So in my mind I set vibration to 50 in game. I don’t want anymore than 50 at peak, so my wheel is set at 100 to accept all of that 50… on the fly if I want a bit less than 50 I can just reduce on the wheel from 100 down to whatever and that peak of 50 in game now becomes a percentage of whatever I set on my wheel. Like if I set TF on wheel to 75, I’m now getting 75% of that max 50 I had the game set to. I thought that was the reasoning behind having the wheel set to 100 and then adjusting the game to where you like it.

Anyway I just do it this way to be consistent.

PS5>GT7>SIMHUB>SHAKERS>GPRO. Then I race.

I only change profiles on the wheel when I get in a car with race tires and it’s way too heavy. I assumed, when I changed back to profile 1 for comfort and sport tires the wheel would feel the same as it did, before I switched to Profile 2.

I dont know how it works, but everytime I start the game I have to pause the race and change the wheel strength setting by -0.1 or +0.1 to have the setting that I want.

 

[hawkeyez]

I dont know how it works, but everytime I start the game I have to pause the race and change the wheel strength setting by -0.1 or +0.1 to have the setting that I want.

I’m going to try that tonight (if I remember) I wonder if changing profiles does the same or if you actually have to change within the profile. I adapted a set it and leave it. No idea what Nm the wheel is producing I just wanted consistency so adapted my boot up procedure. If the wheel is weak it’s weak. It feels alright on everything but race cars with racing soft. Even racing hard tires I can get by on.

 

[LOGI_Rich]

@hawkeyez i was just using 50 as an example.

@Met Entso the alternative to that is to just set the in game strength where you want it and that way it’ll be like that every time.

 

[LOGI_Rich]

@lazybasstard did you already try removing the wheel from the base and reattaching it firmly? Also from power on state, pressing and holding the power button for 10 seconds. Wait 30 seconds then power on.

Oh and you mentioned changing cables, did you try the one for the pedals on the wheel?

 

[lazybasstard]

@LOGI_Rich Yes, just tried that again. Also tried with every microUSB cable i have from Logitech (Keyboards, mouse and headsets) and they all do the same. The message from the usb 2.0 ports disturbs me : "USB device not recognized. The last USB device connected to this computer malfunctioned." I really hope it is not a hardware problem. Checked the microUSB port and it seems fine, it's brand new so there is no dust or anything on it. Checked the power supply and it gives 48.2 V, which I think is OK.

 

[Met Entso]

@hawkeyez i was just using 50 as an example.

@Met Entso the alternative to that is to just set the in game strength where you want it and that way it’ll be like that every time.

Yes I did that and it worked but didn't feel the same, and the wheel setting is more precise.

Also, in this case why have a strength setting in the wheel?

 

[Supercededman]

Yes I did that and it worked but didn't feel the same, and the wheel setting is more precise.

Also, in this case why have a strength setting in the wheel?

I can imagine that having strength on wheel as default, with separate settings for each game, makes sense.

My partner is a small woman. We have different strength settings for her GT7 profile.

 

[Met Entso]

I can imagine that having strength on wheel as default, with separate settings for each game, makes sense.

My partner is a small woman. We have different strength settings for her GT7 profile.

But the wheel default is never used if the game overrides it every time with the profile setting in the game.

 

[Supercededman]

But the wheel default is never used if the game overrides it every time with the profile setting in the game.

I leave wheel strength at 11, and ur right, PD have nerfed that, so I have separate GT7 profiles for me and my partner

I still can adjust either on wheel or in-game when playing ACC occasionally.

 

[LOGI_Rich]

@LOGI_Rich Yes, just tried that again. Also tried with every microUSB cable i have from Logitech (Keyboards, mouse and headsets) and they all do the same. The message from the usb 2.0 ports disturbs me : "USB device not recognized. The last USB device connected to this computer malfunctioned." I really hope it is not a hardware problem. Checked the microUSB port and it seems fine, it's brand new so there is no dust or anything on it. Checked the power supply and it gives 48.2 V, which I think is OK.

It does sound like there's something wrong with the unit, I'm afraid. Support will be able to arrange an exchange.

 

[lazybasstard]

@LOGI_Rich I tried contacting support by chat, but they keep rotating agents until some tells me to wait for another and thats it. Should I write them by email?

 

[LOGI_Rich]

Let me know your ticket number and I can escalate for you.

One other thing to try: disconnect the power lead from the power supply and leave it for a good 15 minutes. Then reconnect and try again to see if it does anything different.

 

[ViperJon]

Decided to take the plunge on the bundle at the Logitech website store just to find the pedals are out of stock! Bummer…

In stock now.

 

[lazybasstard]

@LOGI_Rich My Ticket Number : 12365978. The wheel is unplugged and disconnected all day. Today I saw something strange. When connected to some of my USB ports and I start Scan for new hardware in Device Manager the wheel is recognised as Logitech_LGVirHid01 (with an yellow exclamation mark for missing driver) in Other Devices. Tried updating and uninstalling the driver
without success. Tried again with a friends PC and the problem is the same. Maybe the firmware update messed something inside? Can I start manual firmware update or something?

 

[LOGI_Rich]

No, the firmware went on fine - you were able to play with it immediately afterwards. Something else has clearly gone wrong, but difficult to say where. I've escalated your ticket with support for you. Just to be clear though - you said the wheel was unplugged, but that could just mean the USB so, double checking: you do mean you unplugged the power supply from the wall socket, right?