Logitech G Pro Racing Wheel

OK, I PMed @3diamondS because I literally had no clue what he was talking about when he wrote "turn up the TQ on the Drivehub".
Once he explained it to me I went ahead and gave a shot.
I actually was redoing my Licenses trying to get all golds. I was stuck on the test with the Toyota Tundra on the Dirt Track and didn't notice much difference after the new settings and I said to myself "oh well we'll just have to wait for another patch".
Until I went ahead to the next test with the NSX R. All I can say is HOLLY Mother Of GOD sorry @LOGI_Rich but that is no Placebo affect!! I can assure you that the tires, wheel and pavement are communicating and it's definitely a night and day difference.. In Game FFB Max TQ set to 5, FFB S to 1 like @LOGI_Rich said and the Drivehub FFB set to 2 green left lights.

Please people give it to a try and you will enjoy the game again... Thanks again @3diamondS
 
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aisenprovenco
OK, I PMed @3diamondS because I literally had no clue what he was talking about when he wrote "turn up the TQ on the Drivehub".
Once he explained it to me I went ahead and gave a shot.
I actually was redoing my Licenses trying to get get all golds. I was stuck on the test with the Toyota Tundra on the Dirt Track and didn't notice much difference after the new settings and I said to myself "oh well we'll just have to wait for another patch".
Until I went ahead to the next test with the NSX R. All I can say is HOLLY Mother Of GOD sorry @LOGI_Rich but that is no Placebo affect!! I can assure you that the tires, wheel and pavement are communicating and it's definitely a night and day difference.. In Game FFB Max TQ set to 5, FFB S to 1 like @LOGI_Rich said and the Drivehub FFB set to 2 green left lights.

Please people give it to a try and you will enjoy the game again... Thanks again @3diamondS
Click to expand...
I'm happy that it worked out! I even tried it with in-game torque set to 8 and Drivehub to +2 and it felt great. The TF felt clean and pronounced but not buzzy.
 
The only person who can clear this up is @Podger who may be able to clarify whether they’re boosting both the kinaesthetic and vibrotactile gains with the overdrive.

In lieu of that there’s an easy test. Set the max torque to 1 and the vibration at 20. Test it and feel (there should be very little going on). Now run Drivehub with all five lights on and see if the vibrotactile effects are louder as well as the kinaesthetic stuff that we definitely know is boosted.
 
The drivehub has no impact on Trueforce that I could notice. @Podger confirmed this for me.

I tested it with 2 bars as well as all 5. The only difference I could feel was in FFB strength.
 
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So we raced gr1/VGT cars (which I don't normally drive) tonight in my casual league, and the straight line oscillation was like i've never experienced before, especially under braking from high speed, probably suspension fully compressed. Normally with gr3 cars it's only a problem if I let go of the wheel on a straight which is easy to prevent, but this time the wheel was shaking my grip loose as I was braking.

I did not have time to experiment but I'm guessing the only real solution will be to reduce the torque from 11/10 as I have it now, more dampener may help too but not idea and never fully fixed the problem when I had it in other games. Unfortunate as the settings that I have feel great in road cars. it would be nice to have one setting that works on all types of cars in the game but it seems like unless PD make more changes the solution may be to set up separate race car/road car profiles on the wheel. I heard someone mention that they put something about the G pro in the known issues list but when I checked the site I did not see it mentioned.
 
For anyone considering buying a Logitech G Pro wheel specifically for GT7:

The wheel was a solid 10 (IMHO) before update 1.49, the trueforce was excellent and gave a true immersive feeling combined with VR.

After update 1.49 the trueforce output was reduced combined with some changes in the game’s FFB, the wheel is now a 6/10 as the trueforce is less pronounced and as a user you’re not able to get it back to the levels before.

Not worth the extra 1000$ over a basic wheel at the moment, and it shows as there are a lot of complaints of hardcore G Pro users here.

It’s just a shame overall, hoping there will be a patch/fix soon…
 
aisenprovenco
OK, I PMed @3diamondS because I literally had no clue what he was talking about when he wrote "turn up the TQ on the Drivehub".
Once he explained it to me I went ahead and gave a shot.
I actually was redoing my Licenses trying to get all golds. I was stuck on the test with the Toyota Tundra on the Dirt Track and didn't notice much difference after the new settings and I said to myself "oh well we'll just have to wait for another patch".
Until I went ahead to the next test with the NSX R. All I can say is HOLLY Mother Of GOD sorry @LOGI_Rich but that is no Placebo affect!! I can assure you that the tires, wheel and pavement are communicating and it's definitely a night and day difference.. In Game FFB Max TQ set to 5, FFB S to 1 like @LOGI_Rich said and the Drivehub FFB set to 2 green left lights.

Please people give it to a try and you will enjoy the game again... Thanks again @3diamondS
Click to expand...

This sounds great, but I really don't fancy paying out for a £90 piece of hardware just to make the GT7/GPro combo go back to performing as it did before this update. Absolutely gutted about this.
 
Pzynen
For anyone considering buying a Logitech G Pro wheel specifically for GT7:

The wheel was a solid 10 (IMHO) before update 1.49, the trueforce was excellent and gave a true immersive feeling combined with VR.

After update 1.49 the trueforce output was reduced combined with some changes in the game’s FFB, the wheel is now a 6/10 as the trueforce is less pronounced and as a user you’re not able to get it back to the levels before.

Not worth the extra 1000$ over a basic wheel at the moment, and it shows as there are a lot of complaints of hardcore G Pro users here.

It’s just a shame overall, hoping there will be a patch/fix soon…
Click to expand...
I won't get into an argument about wheel-ratings and feel, because that's entirely personal. However, I am interested to learn where you can find a DD wheel with 11nm for €400?
 
Excession
This sounds great, but I really don't fancy paying out for a £90 piece of hardware just to make the GT7/GPro combo go back to performing as it did before this update. Absolutely gutted about this.
Click to expand...
I personally bought so I can use a H pattern shifter.
I didn't have a clue that it had any kind of effect on anything else.
But definitely understand your point
 
LOGI_Rich
@Abelardor Max Torque value is definitely something you're going to want to play with, depending on which cars you're driving.

Gr.1 cars are now incredibly wobbly with centre oscillation in the wheel if you try and run at 10. Even at 5 you're still getting oscillation but it's at least manageable.
Gr.3... you can get away with it at 10 as it's definitely not as extreme as Gr.1.

As soon as you drop to anything non-Gr then 10 is fine, often with zero oscillations, and at that point you can also consider raising the FFB Sensitivity if you want to make the steering feel sharper.

@Pzynen I can't make any representation as to how quickly/if PD will respond to your feedback, I'm afraid.
Click to expand...
Hello,

I’ve adapted your recommended settings and still get crazy oscillating in GR1 and Vision cars. I tested several like RedBull Concept and Tomahawk on Route X and it truly made me think the wheel was going to rip out of my hands.
Could this be due to suspension settings and tire compounds? Both are still at stock settings. Feels like heavy braking a real car that has warped brake rotors and worn struts.
Changing FFBS between 1-10 didn’t change the oscillation very much.
As for the Trueforce, feels good to me but I also run Simhub with 5 Buttkickers so the wheel feedback changes haven’t really been felt.
 
Max Torque is the major setting that can really affect the oscillations. FFB Sensitivity just needs to be at 1 in order to reduce the ramp of the force curve around centre to try and help, but the torque is the major contributing factor. In the Mazda LM55 Vision or McLaren Vision I was running at 4 Max Torque yesterday and it was definitely manageable.
 
LOGI_Rich
Max Torque is the major setting that can really affect the oscillations. FFB Sensitivity just needs to be at 1 in order to reduce the ramp of the force curve around centre to try and help, but the torque is the major contributing factor. In the Mazda LM55 Vision or McLaren Vision I was running at 4 Max Torque yesterday and it was definitely manageable.
Click to expand...
Thanks for that reply! I’ll give reducing Torque a try later today. Use the power wisely is the new motto. That’s probably why PD had limited the Torque to begin with?
 
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LOGI_Rich
Max Torque is the major setting that can really affect the oscillations. FFB Sensitivity just needs to be at 1 in order to reduce the ramp of the force curve around centre to try and help, but the torque is the major contributing factor. In the Mazda LM55 Vision or McLaren Vision I was running at 4 Max Torque yesterday and it was definitely manageable.
Click to expand...
The problem with this approach is that the weight of the steering wheel at low speed will be rather small.
The difference in steering weight between low and high speed seems exaggerated with this update.
 
I tested gr1 cars again with the in game torque reduced to 5 from 10, it's interesting it certainly doesn't feel as strong but not as bad as I expected, maybe about the same as pre patch in terms of force. As Rich said adjusting the torque doesnt seem to reduce the true force, if anything it makes it stand out more. Unfortunately while it does make the oscillations more manageable, they are still pretty prominent and requires a lot more grip than I normally would use on straights. I did a bit of gr3 as well and didnt have much if any oscillations. I'll still have to test how road cars feel with the reduced torque, and see if using the wheel torque setting will allow me to easily switch between two profiles if necessary
 
Finally got gold today on a GT7 license test I've struggled with for a while, thanks to the updated physics. Sometimes there is no limit to how bad I suck.

However, the G Pro wheel feels even better since the update. I may still buy the DD extreme if full force is ever activated and they get the firmware issues sorted, but I give the G Pro a 5 Star rating.
 
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notarjy
see if using the wheel torque setting will allow me to easily switch between two profiles if necessary
Click to expand...
It will. Leave the in-game settings at maximum (Max Torque 10, Vibration 150) then in the onboard profiles of the wheel have one for Gr.1 with the Strength set to 5Nm (or whatever you prefer) and another with the Strength set to 11Nm (or, again, whatever you prefer) and then you can switch between them when you change cars. The only setting we can't cover with the onboard wheel memory is the FFB Sensitivity setting in the game.
 
LOGI_Rich
The only setting we can't cover with the onboard wheel memory is the FFB Sensitivity setting in the game.
Click to expand...
Apologies in advance as I'm sure it's been gone over before, but from memory you recommend FFB Sensitivity be set to 1, is that right?

Are you able to articulate for a smooth brained individual such as myself, how the difference between 1 and 10 manifests itself in terms of feel etc.?

I have historically had it set to 1 the whole time, FFB 10, and tinkered with the wheel settings prior to 1.49, albeit with torque on 11Nm too. Now that we have full strength, these maxed out settings are crazy for cars on slicks, so I've settled on an FFB strength in game of 6 as a fair balance between really nice feeling Comfort tyres, good grippy feeling Sports tyres (but a little over the top), and then slightly excessive slicks.

As part of this though, I ended up putting the FFB Sensitivity to 10, and found that to me it just gave a little more resistance / feel off centre which I liked, to sort of compensate for the loss of FFB Strength by turning down to 6.

I assume I'm just wrongly associating 'resistance' with 'feel', but am curious if you have a slightly more enlightening explanation of the impact FFB Sensitivity has, as PD's scrolling text explanation doesn't really convince me...!

Thanks for your support as always :)
 
I don't know specifically, but based on testing and PD's text, my understanding is that it's essentially changing the slope/ramp of the force curve. Lower FFB sensitivity is a lower gradient curve which with the result that things feel less immediate; higher sensitivity increase the slope of that curve so it hits peak much quicker. With non-Gr.1 cars you can certainly increase the sensitivity if you like, but as soon as you introduce the high downforce cars where the oscillations are already troublesome at 1 sensitivity, if you increase to 10 then it's going to shake like crazy.
 
@Sturdy
Try logitech rec settings on wheel and in game...
Race cars/race tires torque 4 sensitivity 3
Road cars sports tires T 5 S 3
Road cars comfort tires T6 S3.

I've used sensitivity at 10 since March but settled on 3 while testing the new physics. It reduced the oscillations on the straights while still giving me a decent amount of weight around center. Sensitivity on 1 felt very loose and vague around center and corner entry, especially with road cars. It ended up feeling overall better than sensitivity on 10 for me, and I wanted to like 10 more lol. It also ended up giving me the best lap times on both Road and race cars.

Try it out.
 
Sturdy
Apologies in advance as I'm sure it's been gone over before, but from memory you recommend FFB Sensitivity be set to 1, is that right?

Are you able to articulate for a smooth brained individual such as myself, how the difference between 1 and 10 manifests itself in terms of feel etc.?

I have historically had it set to 1 the whole time, FFB 10, and tinkered with the wheel settings prior to 1.49, albeit with torque on 11Nm too. Now that we have full strength, these maxed out settings are crazy for cars on slicks, so I've settled on an FFB strength in game of 6 as a fair balance between really nice feeling Comfort tyres, good grippy feeling Sports tyres (but a little over the top), and then slightly excessive slicks.

As part of this though, I ended up putting the FFB Sensitivity to 10, and found that to me it just gave a little more resistance / feel off centre which I liked, to sort of compensate for the loss of FFB Strength by turning down to 6.

I assume I'm just wrongly associating 'resistance' with 'feel', but am curious if you have a slightly more enlightening explanation of the impact FFB Sensitivity has, as PD's scrolling text explanation doesn't really convince me...!

Thanks for your support as always :)
Click to expand...
You can think about in-game FFB sensitivity as a in game damper slider. It pretty much does the same, when you use the wheel base damper setting and turn it down to zero, for example in ACC on Console, I get the same feeling.

Oscillations are crazy with FFB sensitivity to 1 and FFB Strength to 5, when on RM slicks and in a Gr.1 car. Some may like it, but it's not how real cars supposed to behave.
 
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@LOGI_Rich Thanks for taking the time to offer ongoing advice and support with the G Pro , much appreciated. With so many inputs to deal with that can change how we experience the wheel, it is brilliant to have some solid advice on settings and how they can affect the feel/performance.

I updated the wheel after seeing the true force effect all but disappear but your advised vibration strength increase etc sorted this out and just messed around with the other settings to suit. All good again👍

However the only setting that I haven't seen mentioned in the thread is the Controller Steering Sensitivity. I've used this at 5 since watching a video that appeared to demonstrate that you only have 1:1 responsiveness at that setting. The advice was that moving away from 5 introduced a steering lag effect that would get progressively worse the higher or lower you went with your setting. They demonstrated this with some example videos and between that and increasing the FFB sensitivity to 10 made a big difference for me personally with the G923 at the time. What is your take on this setting?

This is the video here that demonstrates the above in some detail...
Best FFB Settings GT7 Tutorial
 
LOGI_Rich
@Tommy moon it’s a variety. Usual suspects are:

McLaren Vision GT
Mazda LM55 Vision GT
VW GTi Vision GT
Ford Mustang GT
Ford Focus Gr.B Rally
Porsche 911
Mini Cooper S
Eunos Roadster

But there are others.

@ArthurMorgan patch notes can be found on the download page for G HUB. https://support.logi.com/hc/en-gb/articles/360025298133-Logitech-G-HUB

Pasted here for you:

PRO Racing Wheel (Ver: 133.6.106)
-Addresses occasional max torque event when USB traffic becomes constrained on TRUEFORCE titles
-Fix for Left Clutch paddle not working when it is the only control assigned as clutch
-Adds support for future peripherals.
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Rich this update is the one from earlier this month....not another post GT7 1.49 correct?
 
rAtey
I won't get into an argument about wheel-ratings and feel, because that's entirely personal. However, I am interested to learn where you can find a DD wheel with 11nm for €400?
Click to expand...
Endor (fanatech) just claimed insolvency and the bookkeeping on their corporate site is suspect to say the least. Logitech is solid, ecosystem looks like it's moving forward later this year. Slow approach seams warranted and prudent given recent events.
 
@Sprotacus I remain unconvinced, I'm afraid. Until we get a 100% confirmation from Polyphony that it's also affecting steering wheels I certainly wasn't able to discern a difference in the steering output. I believe it's applying a non-linear curve to the steering axis for a controller, but I couldn't detect the same being applied to the wheel - the same angle of steering resulted in the same turning circle for the car, regardless of the setting. Maybe I'll take another look at this but I'm about to go on vacation so I've a tonne of other stuff to get through.

@Tommy moon Yes, that's the one - there's been no other firmware updates.
 
Oshawa-Joe
@Sturdy
Try logitech rec settings on wheel and in game...
Race cars/race tires torque 4 sensitivity 3
Road cars sports tires T 5 S 3
Road cars comfort tires T6 S3.

I've used sensitivity at 10 since March but settled on 3 while testing the new physics. It reduced the oscillations on the straights while still giving me a decent amount of weight around center. Sensitivity on 1 felt very loose and vague around center and corner entry, especially with road cars. It ended up feeling overall better than sensitivity on 10 for me, and I wanted to like 10 more lol. It also ended up giving me the best lap times on both Road and race cars.

Try it out.
Click to expand...
This is near perfect! Thanks!
 
LOGI_Rich
@Sprotacus I remain unconvinced, I'm afraid. Until we get a 100% confirmation from Polyphony that it's also affecting steering wheels I certainly wasn't able to discern a difference in the steering output. I believe it's applying a non-linear curve to the steering axis for a controller, but I couldn't detect the same being applied to the wheel - the same angle of steering resulted in the same turning circle for the car, regardless of the setting. Maybe I'll take another look at this but I'm about to go on vacation so I've a tonne of other stuff to get through.
Click to expand...
Yeah, it regularly pops up that Steering Sensitivity has something to say when you are on a wheel. First time I tried it out, I was convinced it was doing something, but I am more prone to thinking it is placebo. In the youtube video that was linked, the creator goes all the way in demonstrating that it does something, and everybody in the comments are cheering, but it still looks like a very good placebo effect to me. It would be awesome if you (@LOGI_Rich ) could get a confirmation from PD so we can put this to rest.
(But I will leave mine at 5, just in case…😁)
 

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