- 5
- United Kingdom
G29 feels dead now..no vibration of road through wheel..they've fcked it.
Logitech G Pro Racing Wheel
- Thread starter timekiller001
- 4,249 comments
- 604,305 views
- 1
- United Kingdom
I've been getting the exact same thing!Has anyone had issues with the G Pro disconnecting mid-race since the last update? I had it happen a few months back and updating the firmware seemed to fix it, but it's now back. Everything on PC works fine using the same USB cable, but now anywhere from a minute to 10-15 mins in to a session the wheel + pedals will disconnect and the on unit display does the three dot cycling like it's starting up.
Power cycling the wheel will bring it back, but within a few minutes it will disconnect again. No amount of PS5 reboots / unplugging seems to fix it.
Switched to PC and did an hour of AC without issues, back to PS5 and it disconnected within 5 minutes doing one of the weekly races.
Edit: found this thread, maybe this is my issue? Will test:
Front USB port on PS5 is only USB 2.0, rear is 3.0 and I’ve been using the front port for the wheel.
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Weird, for the last year and a half i have exclusively used the front usb-a with a 3 meter extension for the g-pro. Never had so much as a hiccup. I wonder if it transfers enough data to matter. Maybe just different ps5 production runs/ supplier parts.
- 124
- United States
I have also been using the front port, since my rear ports are in use for other devices and the front is more accessible for switching the wheel between the PS5 and PC. No signal issues except for losing FFB the one time I mentioned above, however the steering etc still worked fine so I dont think its a USB issue.
- 6
- United States
- Kamikazebeats
Pro wheel plugged into the back of my PS5, PS pulse elite headset adapter plugged into the front, and psvr2 via USB c plugged into the front as well. No issues here.
I love the new physics and the 1.49 update especially on the pro wheel, but still missing that True Force clunk from drive changes etc. If they put that back the way it was prior, it would be sublime.
To all the people stating that it feels better, you may be correct but for the people who had their True Force settings turned up slightly (a bit more than slightly in my case) we're missing the best part of this $1,000 plus wheel.
Side note: True Force is so good that fanatec had to come out with their new "full force" but it's hasn't come out on any Sim game yet for them to use. Womp womp
I love the new physics and the 1.49 update especially on the pro wheel, but still missing that True Force clunk from drive changes etc. If they put that back the way it was prior, it would be sublime.
To all the people stating that it feels better, you may be correct but for the people who had their True Force settings turned up slightly (a bit more than slightly in my case) we're missing the best part of this $1,000 plus wheel.
Side note: True Force is so good that fanatec had to come out with their new "full force" but it's hasn't come out on any Sim game yet for them to use. Womp womp
- 17
- United States
So I was playing around on Daytona tri-oval today and noticed something concerning. As I went through turns 1-2, my tires dipped down and touched the yellow line. Pre-update, this would shoot some pretty strong feedback into my wheel. Now, there was zero effect on the FFB. I did it again more extremely in subsequent turns and it was the same result (see the gif below).
I'm hoping some other people can test this and see if they experience the same thing as this is a pretty massive loss in feedback. If it's just me, then I have some troubleshooting to do!
EDIT: Adding my settings below
LOGI PRO SETTINGS
Strength 7.3
TF Audio 100
FFB Filter 11
Dampener 20
GT7 SETTINGS
FFB Max Torque 10
FFB Sensitivity 7
Vibration Strength 150
Controller Steering Sensitivity 5
I'm hoping some other people can test this and see if they experience the same thing as this is a pretty massive loss in feedback. If it's just me, then I have some troubleshooting to do!
EDIT: Adding my settings below
LOGI PRO SETTINGS
Strength 7.3
TF Audio 100
FFB Filter 11
Dampener 20
GT7 SETTINGS
FFB Max Torque 10
FFB Sensitivity 7
Vibration Strength 150
Controller Steering Sensitivity 5
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Hi guys. I was busy over the last couple of weeks and just dialed in today with all the new updates and changes. Still have my wheel set to the settings prior to the new patch. Can someone please share the latest settings for both, ingame and the wheel?
Is Logitech updating them regularly on their website? https://support.logi.com/hc/en-ca/articles/8358055253271-In-Game-Settings-for-Pro-Wheels
Actually it would be helpful if there was anything written about latest changes and game version.
Also, bought my wheel more than 10 months ago. Never updated the firmware. Would that be a problem?
Is Logitech updating them regularly on their website? https://support.logi.com/hc/en-ca/articles/8358055253271-In-Game-Settings-for-Pro-Wheels
Actually it would be helpful if there was anything written about latest changes and game version.
Also, bought my wheel more than 10 months ago. Never updated the firmware. Would that be a problem?
- 405
- Houston, TX
- TheOneDonJuan
I have no idea how anyone feels this way. Like....I can't wrap my mind around how anyone thinks this feels better. It's like having sex with a woman raw for a year and then being forced to wear two condoms and a surgical glove. That's what it feels like to me.
It isn't even remotely close to the same feel. Sweeping turns do feel a bit better. The actual "feel" and connection to the car feel substantially worse.
Cannot agree more. Like I wrote a comment above. I came back after a couple weeks where I had no time to race.
Couldn’t even finish the weekly races. Such a mess. Feels completely different and random. Crazy oszillation in some cars. No FFB in others. TF is absolute garbage at the moment.
That’s also why I was asking for updated settings, but I assume these won’t help much…
Couldn’t even finish the weekly races. Such a mess. Feels completely different and random. Crazy oszillation in some cars. No FFB in others. TF is absolute garbage at the moment.
That’s also why I was asking for updated settings, but I assume these won’t help much…
- 25
- Scotland
- Sprotacus
I've started following this thread for advice on settings after the 1.49 update and spent last night testing several different cars on Eiger Nordwand.
I started with @Sturdy settings as well as @LOGI_Rich advice to up the FFB to 150 which gave a good baseline.
@Sturdy Settings...
Race cars/race tires torque 4 sensitivity 3
Road cars sports tires T 5 S 3
Road cars comfort tires T6 S3.
I personally found these worked well generally but with the advised Logitech settings of FFB Filter of 8 and damper at 15 thought they were a bit too 'light' with some cars for my personal taste. Before the update I had the FFB Filter pretty low at times as well as the damper which was either low or off. So keeping the sensitivity at 3 I changed the torque to between a range of 4 too 7 but switched the damper off again and this for me this gave the most direct feel, feedback and strength combination.
In real life I own and drive an R53 MINI and a GR Yaris and last night was the first time I could say that both felt as close to the real deal as I've ever felt. I had a brilliant time trying everything from old classics like the Ferrari 250 SWB to the bonkers crazy Pikes Peak Suzuki. For consistency all the cars had sports softs on which I don't usually do as try and chase realism with comforts/sports hards etc.
The Suzuki was insane with Torque steer and a real handful but driving something like that would be crazy to drive in real life. So all things considered as frustrating as it has been having to go through the process of research and tweaking I'd say the new physics are really impressive as is the G Pro.
After spending years happily using the simplicity of a controller all the way back to GT's initial launch then upgrading during covid to a G923 and a wheel stand. My new set up of the G Pro with PSVR2 and my Playseat Trophy may have cost a small fortune and is more grief to get the most out of, but absolutely worth the hassle and cost when it all comes together like last night.
LOGI PRO SETTINGS
Strength 11
TF Audio 100
FFB Filter 8
Dampener OFF
GT7 SETTINGS
FFB Max Torque (Between 4-7 depending on Car/Tyres)
FFB Sensitivity 3
Vibration Strength 140
Controller Steering Sensitivity 5
My GT versions of my real cars. The plates are an in joke with the 27Racers guys I race with online
I started with @Sturdy settings as well as @LOGI_Rich advice to up the FFB to 150 which gave a good baseline.
@Sturdy Settings...
Race cars/race tires torque 4 sensitivity 3
Road cars sports tires T 5 S 3
Road cars comfort tires T6 S3.
I personally found these worked well generally but with the advised Logitech settings of FFB Filter of 8 and damper at 15 thought they were a bit too 'light' with some cars for my personal taste. Before the update I had the FFB Filter pretty low at times as well as the damper which was either low or off. So keeping the sensitivity at 3 I changed the torque to between a range of 4 too 7 but switched the damper off again and this for me this gave the most direct feel, feedback and strength combination.
In real life I own and drive an R53 MINI and a GR Yaris and last night was the first time I could say that both felt as close to the real deal as I've ever felt. I had a brilliant time trying everything from old classics like the Ferrari 250 SWB to the bonkers crazy Pikes Peak Suzuki. For consistency all the cars had sports softs on which I don't usually do as try and chase realism with comforts/sports hards etc.
The Suzuki was insane with Torque steer and a real handful but driving something like that would be crazy to drive in real life. So all things considered as frustrating as it has been having to go through the process of research and tweaking I'd say the new physics are really impressive as is the G Pro.
After spending years happily using the simplicity of a controller all the way back to GT's initial launch then upgrading during covid to a G923 and a wheel stand. My new set up of the G Pro with PSVR2 and my Playseat Trophy may have cost a small fortune and is more grief to get the most out of, but absolutely worth the hassle and cost when it all comes together like last night.
LOGI PRO SETTINGS
Strength 11
TF Audio 100
FFB Filter 8
Dampener OFF
GT7 SETTINGS
FFB Max Torque (Between 4-7 depending on Car/Tyres)
FFB Sensitivity 3
Vibration Strength 140
Controller Steering Sensitivity 5
My GT versions of my real cars. The plates are an in joke with the 27Racers guys I race with online
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I've started following this thread for advice on settings after the 1.49 update and spent last night testing several different cars on Eiger Nordwand.
I started with @Sturdy settings as well as @LOGI_Rich advice to up the FFB to 150 which gave a good baseline.
@Sturdy Settings...
Race cars/race tires torque 4 sensitivity 3
Road cars sports tires T 5 S 3
Road cars comfort tires T6 S3.
I personally found these worked well generally but with the advised Logitech settings of FFB Filter of 8 and damper at 15 thought they were a bit too 'light' with some cars for my personal taste. Before the update I had the FFB Filter pretty low at times as well as the damper which was either low or off. So keeping the sensitivity at 3 I changed the torque to between a range of 4 too 7 but switched the damper off again and this for me this gave the most direct feel, feedback and strength combination.
In real life I own and drive an R53 MINI and a GR Yaris and last night was the first time I could say that both felt as close to the real deal as I've ever felt. I had a brilliant time trying everything from old classics like the Ferrari 250 SWB to the bonkers crazy Pikes Peak Suzuki. For consistency all the cars had sports softs on which I don't usually do as try and chase realism with comforts/sports hards etc.
The Suzuki was insane with Torque steer and a real handful but driving something like that would be crazy to drive in real life. So all things considered as frustrating as it has been having to go through the process of research and tweaking I'd say the new physics are really impressive as is the G Pro.
After spending years happily using the simplicity of a controller all the way back to GT's initial launch then upgrading during covid to a G923 and a wheel stand. My new set up of the G Pro with PSVR2 and my Playseat Trophy may have cost a small fortune and is more grief to get the most out of, but absolutely worth the hassle and cost when it all comes together like last night.
My GT versions of my real cars. The plates are an in joke with the 27Racers guys I race with online
View attachment 1379534
Could you perhaps share your full settings list, on the wheel as in GT7? Thanks a bunch!
Thanks @Sprotacus will try them this evening.
- 4
- Netherlands
That is good to hear! I have the same setup and haven't been able to play for a few weeks, so am anxious to find out how 1.49/1.50 play now... Will try your settings out in a few days. Thanks for sharing!I've started following this thread for advice on settings after the 1.49 update and spent last night testing several different cars on Eiger Nordwand.
I started with @Sturdy settings as well as @LOGI_Rich advice to up the FFB to 150 which gave a good baseline.
@Sturdy Settings...
Race cars/race tires torque 4 sensitivity 3
Road cars sports tires T 5 S 3
Road cars comfort tires T6 S3.
I personally found these worked well generally but with the advised Logitech settings of FFB Filter of 8 and damper at 15 thought they were a bit too 'light' with some cars for my personal taste. Before the update I had the FFB Filter pretty low at times as well as the damper which was either low or off. So keeping the sensitivity at 3 I changed the torque to between a range of 4 too 7 but switched the damper off again and this for me this gave the most direct feel, feedback and strength combination.
In real life I own and drive an R53 MINI and a GR Yaris and last night was the first time I could say that both felt as close to the real deal as I've ever felt. I had a brilliant time trying everything from old classics like the Ferrari 250 SWB to the bonkers crazy Pikes Peak Suzuki. For consistency all the cars had sports softs on which I don't usually do as try and chase realism with comforts/sports hards etc.
The Suzuki was insane with Torque steer and a real handful but driving something like that would be crazy to drive in real life. So all things considered as frustrating as it has been having to go through the process of research and tweaking I'd say the new physics are really impressive as is the G Pro.
After spending years happily using the simplicity of a controller all the way back to GT's initial launch then upgrading during covid to a G923 and a wheel stand. My new set up of the G Pro with PSVR2 and my Playseat Trophy may have cost a small fortune and is more grief to get the most out of, but absolutely worth the hassle and cost when it all comes together like last night.
LOGI PRO SETTINGS
Strength 11
TF Audio 100
FFB Filter 8
Dampener OFF
GT7 SETTINGS
FFB Max Torque (Between 4-7 depending on Car/Tyres)
FFB Sensitivity 3
Vibration Strength 140
Controller Steering Sensitivity 5
My GT versions of my real cars. The plates are an in joke with the 27Racers guys I race with online
View attachment 1379534
Last edited:
- 4,973
- Hillsdale
- Oshawa-Joe
I've started following this thread for advice on settings after the 1.49 update and spent last night testing several different cars on Eiger Nordwand.
I started with @Sturdy settings as well as @LOGI_Rich advice to up the FFB to 150 which gave a good baseline.
@Sturdy Settings...
Race cars/race tires torque 4 sensitivity 3
Road cars sports tires T 5 S 3
Road cars comfort tires T6 S3.
I personally found these worked well generally but with the advised Logitech settings of FFB Filter of 8 and damper at 15 thought they were a bit too 'light' with some cars for my personal taste. Before the update I had the FFB Filter pretty low at times as well as the damper which was either low or off. So keeping the sensitivity at 3 I changed the torque to between a range of 4 too 7 but switched the damper off again and this for me this gave the most direct feel, feedback and strength combination.
In real life I own and drive an R53 MINI and a GR Yaris and last night was the first time I could say that both felt as close to the real deal as I've ever felt. I had a brilliant time trying everything from old classics like the Ferrari 250 SWB to the bonkers crazy Pikes Peak Suzuki. For consistency all the cars had sports softs on which I don't usually do as try and chase realism with comforts/sports hards etc.
The Suzuki was insane with Torque steer and a real handful but driving something like that would be crazy to drive in real life. So all things considered as frustrating as it has been having to go through the process of research and tweaking I'd say the new physics are really impressive as is the G Pro.
After spending years happily using the simplicity of a controller all the way back to GT's initial launch then upgrading during covid to a G923 and a wheel stand. My new set up of the G Pro with PSVR2 and my Playseat Trophy may have cost a small fortune and is more grief to get the most out of, but absolutely worth the hassle and cost when it all comes together like last night.
LOGI PRO SETTINGS
Strength 11
TF Audio 100
FFB Filter 8
Dampener OFF
GT7 SETTINGS
FFB Max Torque (Between 4-7 depending on Car/Tyres)
FFB Sensitivity 3
Vibration Strength 140
Controller Steering Sensitivity 5
My GT versions of my real cars. The plates are an in joke with the 27Racers guys I race with online
View attachment 1379534
Those are my exact settings on wheel and game. Changed damper to off recently. 100% feels the best for me.
- 6
- Australia
I'm honestly perplexed to how people are running GT7 with no damper? Since the new 1.49 update, I get oscillations even with my force feedback sensitivity down at 1 or 3. I have to use damper to smooth out the oscillations. I have max torque at 5 in game and wheel 11nm.
Vision cars are undriveable unless i bring the max torque down to around 3.
GT3 cars are somewhat controllable but must use damper - are you not getting wheel oscillations with no damper???
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- 4,973
- Hillsdale
- Oshawa-Joe
Just a touch when driving race cars Gr3 and up, but only if I take my hands off the wheel. I normally drive with both hands tho. I run cars spec, no tune. Maybe tuning is the issue ? I have no idea.
I use torque 4 for race cars. 5 doesn't work for me. I'll try some VGT cars tomorrow and see how they feel.
I use torque 4 for race cars. 5 doesn't work for me. I'll try some VGT cars tomorrow and see how they feel.
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- 6
- Australia
Let me know - 100% VGT cars are barley driveble without damper.
- 1,259
- Melbourne
- Nicky-Boy_7
@LOGI_Rich incredible news mate:
I only drive once a week at most (when my buddy comes 'round) so the unit sat untouched under its sheet until last night. When I fired it up I realised the stick was working again.
Not just working, but better than ever before. Zero "stuttery" data / current streams; you can hold it in any direction and the connection is 100%-solid.
Also, it feels more-dampened now - no clickiness. Feels more-pro.
Somehow, the magic spray totally did the job but it wasn't instant. As I said, it was a week's break so for all I know it might've been OK from day 3 onwards. I actually tried to jiggle it on day 2 'cause I was in disbelief that it could suddenly seize up like that but no dice so I figured it was kaput.
Anywho, thank you for your time if you saw my posts earlier and go you good thing Logitech!
- 47
- United States
Rich....I have no less than three quick students I'm asking this question for. Sony/PDs refusal to recognize second paddles is now creating an issue I need to resolve...or take action....like not approving STEM funding/support.
The issue is bigger than I initially thought...but handicapped students with leg issues are being unfairly impacted with this. Two of these students actually have g29/923 equipment they can no longer use. Their parents would buy the DD if the paddles were supported.
If there is a solution on the horizon...this fall in Germany at the show....then great. If not, I'm not sure GT7 is a viable platform scholastically
- 53
- Australia
What is the issue with the paddles? I have used them before in GT7 as brake and accelerator with lineal hand inputs with no issues (BTW had an injured ankle so could not use foot controls at that time). Has a recent update changed that?
- 47
- United States
As far as I know GT7 doesn't recognize them
Hey all. Have had logitech pro for a month now. Overall decent kit, but I have few problems with it if anyone can help. I play on Ps5 and have newest firmware.
1. There's often ticking at the back of the base after use. I've seen that's been discussed before here, but mine isn't as loud or vibrate the wheel. It's somehow related to the dampener setting, so I've turned it off. Is that normal and nothing to be worried about?
2. Circle button has already went iffy. Not a responsive clicky like the others. Bit Sticky.
3. Switching between games is glitchy. I go between ACC, F1 and GT7. ACC Trueforce goes crazy until I turn it down and then back up. F1 no FFb. GT7 doesn't recognise wheel input. When that happens I have to turn the wheel off and on again.
Any tips is much appreciated!
1. There's often ticking at the back of the base after use. I've seen that's been discussed before here, but mine isn't as loud or vibrate the wheel. It's somehow related to the dampener setting, so I've turned it off. Is that normal and nothing to be worried about?
2. Circle button has already went iffy. Not a responsive clicky like the others. Bit Sticky.
3. Switching between games is glitchy. I go between ACC, F1 and GT7. ACC Trueforce goes crazy until I turn it down and then back up. F1 no FFb. GT7 doesn't recognise wheel input. When that happens I have to turn the wheel off and on again.
Any tips is much appreciated!
