Lotus GTPlanet Elise 111R Championship - Series Champion: Wiifreak

  • Thread starter Müle
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bumping works well and is all good fun in the miatas... but in these cars it always feels totally silly to me. And with how light and mid-engined they are it also can make the rear pretty light and unpredictable with lag.
 
i was bump-drafting with gtp_johny for the majority of the race at la sarthe. it definitely improved our lap times significantly and we were gaining significant amounts of time per sector at la sarthe when we werent spinning each other out. i think the important things to keep in mind when you are bump-drafting with another car:

1. make sure you both want to bump draft
2. if you are the car behind, only bump draft the car in front of you on straightaways
3. do not bump the car in front of you when you are approaching a turn or braking point
4. if you are the car behind, just follow behind safely thru the corners, making sure not to bump the car in front of you during the turn or the exit
5. resume bump-drafting on the next straightaway

follow my 5 step program and you will have success in your racing life and your personal life.
 
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It sounds like you're talking about bump passing, more than bump drafting. Obviously, the two are completely different situations.

As I'm sure you know, to bump pass is to bump the car in front immediately before or during a corner to upset its balance, decrease its speed, and create a passing opportunity. This is not allowed in Mule's series and I highly doubt anyone was doing this, deliberately or otherwise.

Bump drafting, as Mule show has shown above, is to bump the car in front on a straight, which has the effect of allowing both cars to travel faster. From my experience doing this - including at La Sarthe - the drivers that frequent this type of series are careful to cease bumping and back off long before the corner turn in point.

That being said, I don't think you should bump someone who doesn't welcome it, even on a straight.


The voice of reason. Thanks so much for posting this Nastra, wish you could run with us 👍.

Thing is, it's very simple guys. It's very freaking simple.

We're trying to race in GT5 to the best of our abilities. We run with limited damage and we've figured out that we can bumpdraft so we use it. and get good at it, to be faster.

Racing purists: GT5 isn't the best sim to get clean racing in. In fact I'm pretty freaking amazed we're able to do it to the level we are. It's twitchy glitchy and inconsistent but we do the best we can with what we have.

I think we just needed to find more of a base to touch ground with for all of us to understand each other before the Le Mans race.

I didn't get near EERS bumper because he stated clearly before the race that he wouldn't accept bumping so I thought, " Cool, well he's gonna be left behind so whatever"

So we raced he stayed up front, we all slingshot around him (which is MUCH more unrealistic and dangerous) and we'd tried to bump each other but he stayed tucked behind us in the draft. So even though he wasn't bump drafting he was still fine in reaping the benefits to go fast. which is exactly why we bump draft in the first place.

Make sense!? AHHHH
 
we all slingshot around him (which is MUCH more unrealistic and dangerous)

I've heard mule say that before as well and I just don't agree. The draft in GT5 is unrealistic yes... but that actually makes it even safer to leap-frog on straights that are as massive as the Mulsanne.
I think you guys confuse every car with a spec miata.
 
I've heard mule say that before as well and I just don't agree. The draft in GT5 is unrealistic yes... but that actually makes it even safer to leap-frog on straights that are as massive as the Mulsanne.
I think you guys confuse every car with a spec miata.

The reasoning behind it's simple though. Slingshotting is very dangerous particularly in groups. If you had raced with them you would see what I mean (video coming soon btw) It even happened to me very early on in the third lap of my four. It was Nepali, EERS and I and I was coming up quick on EERS and tried to sling around him to get up front. Nepali was ahead and to the right of EERS had a good amount of space between him. I tried to go through with my boost of speed and he moved over ever so slightly to the left. I bumped him and bounced in between the two cars like a ping pong and almost lost it.

If was able to bump EERS it would've been easy, both of us would've gotten ahead of Nep with out needing to move anywhere but straight.

If it's just two cars together then "leap-frogging" is pretty hard to mess up but if the person bump drafting knows how to do it then it's just as safe.

In WSGTC we run with heavy damage as well as Legend of the streets so I definitely know how to race with out BD.
 
So for clarity: "Bump drafting is safer in a pack" That I can agree with. And that's why NASCAR does it.

But two cars working together in a pass + re-pass leap-frog without the added variables of trying to overtake other cars while doing it... I find it safer than bumping when we're in something this close to a proper race car.

The miatas are a totally different scenario... they don't get enough tow from even the unrealistic draft to make anything but bump-draft a possibility.
 
Sorry, not my championship but i want to say something about this bump-no bump. I think only one problem is the track. With this long straight parts and so many slipstreaming it is not racing serious. If you not race track with big straights you have no problem i think. This is a very bad track for racing GT5. Serious drivers never drive it with slow car like lotus. Again sorry, have fun.👍
 
Sorry, not my championship but i want to say something about this bump-no bump. I think only one problem is the track. With this long straight parts and so many slipstreaming it is not racing serious. If you not race track with big straights you have no problem i think. This is a very bad track for racing GT5. Serious drivers never drive it with slow car like lotus. Again sorry, have fun.👍

So because I chose to have a "big race" at a famous track, it discredits the entire championship as "not serious?"

:facepalm:

Can we move on already, ffs? I wanted to have a great series, full of fast, clean drivers, but after one race, a couple of people go out and ruin it. Continuing to harp on it when I'm trying to move on and get to the next race is doing nothing but risk losing any credibility it has left.

We'll let Wardez post his video, as that *should* put to rest any doubt over what happened. After that, we're done. No more talking about it.

I'm here to have fun. This isn't fun.

Trial Mountain should be fun. Lets talk about that.
 
MÜLE_9242;5654812
I'm here to have fun. This isn't fun.

Trial Mountain should be fun. Lets talk about that.

w3rd 👍

tuning my car: 1472-6118-4259-7712-7917

done... 1'23.616

This is addictive... forgot how much fun this track can be with a car that will eat it up. Going well here is a nice blast of cocaine.
 
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MÜLE_9242;5654812
I'm here to have fun. This isn't fun.

Trial Mountain should be fun. Lets talk about that.
Lets. :)

trialmountain3kr.jpg


T1-3: These should be taken flat out with fresh tires. However, my adjustments has made the car very, very tight entering T1 and I have to play with the throttle a bit on entry. Unfortunately, efforts to make the car better through here make me worse elsewhere. On old tires, the risk of crashing at T3 is very high if you miss your marks even a little bit through T1-2.

T4: I'm letting the car coast on bit on entry. The fronts get mad at me if I'm too aggressive on entry. The bump near the exit point is annoying but not particularly problematic until the tires are very old.

T5: My entry is very inconsistent. Need to work on it.

T6-7: I try to use as much track as possible. I sometimes end up going a bit wide off 7 but that hasn't really hurt me.

T8: Car feels fine here even on old tires. Car pushes a bit on exit but I've only nicked the wall once or twice.

T9: Tricky exit as the car's tail tends to step out. The adjustments I did made it much better but it comes back hard on old tires.

T12: Very easy to go wide here but I found it easier to manage if I start braking and turning lightly before the hump exiting T11.

T13: Again like T9, the car can step out here. The adjustments has made it mostly a non-issue throughout the run.

T14-15: The only time I lifted was the last two laps of a 20 lap stint I did and that was precautionary.


Based on the few runs I've done, the car stays pretty consistent running mid to high 1:44s until Lap 10. The car stays in the 1:45 range until Lap 12-14 and then the car is a handful to drive after that.
 
Where I was saying you were losing time was turns 9 & 12. Especially 12, coast into the apex and stay above 70mph. I don't think you're entering it fast enough.
With my current setup, I can't enter T9 aggressively or I'll definitely lose the rear end on exit. With T12, I pretty much coast it in there but I'm hit or miss there.

I think I'm pretty much done with adjustments. Feels like whatever time I can gain at the start I'll lose when the tires get old. My mindset is to only do one stop so I need to get the car to work for me for 20 laps.
 
MÜLE_9242;5654812
So because I chose to have a "big race" at a famous track, it discredits the entire championship as "not serious?"

I didn't want say this but ok, maybe bad english. Only this track is bad, other tracks are very good for championship.
 
With my current setup, I can't enter T9 aggressively or I'll definitely lose the rear end on exit. With T12, I pretty much coast it in there but I'm hit or miss there.

I think I'm pretty much done with adjustments. Feels like whatever time I can gain at the start I'll lose when the tires get old. My mindset is to only do one stop so I need to get the car to work for me for 20 laps.

Turn 9 is the best passing spot... you might want to fix that or your going to have trouble on race day; unless you're planning on doing all your passing in the pits. (Hauling ass on this track is too much fun so I doubt I'll have the patience for a 1 stop.)
 
Hey Gents, so what are the fast laps for this combo so far?

I really would love to do this combo, as it's a very "Driver Itensive" Course. Good Fun.

Is there any specific reason for the 4:30PM Sunday race times? That time is wicked tough to make if you have sort of "during the day" sunday plans. Any way we could push back the time to later in the evening? I could probably make it if that's the case, not sure if anyone is in the same boat as me? Would be much better and allow me to participate in just about every race for the rest of the season... Anyway, let me know-

Cheers,
 
Turn 9 is the best passing spot... you might want to fix that or your going to have trouble on race day; unless you're planning on doing all your passing in the pits. (Hauling ass on this track is too much fun so I doubt I'll have the patience for a 1 stop.)
I understand but I haven't been able to find the right setup for that corner. Don't think I'll find it by Sunday so a one-stopper seems to be my only option.
 
4:30 allows the Europeans to join in. It was also what people voted for.


Also, I looked up on Amazon, and a DFGT + 21" monitor + adapters for hooking it up to the PS3 are just under $400. :(

I'd have been able to get that by now if the dumb yarn factory didn't suck.
 
Hey Gents, so what are the fast laps for this combo so far?

I really would love to do this combo, as it's a very "Driver Itensive" Course. Good Fun.

Is there any specific reason for the 4:30PM Sunday race times? That time is wicked tough to make if you have sort of "during the day" sunday plans. Any way we could push back the time to later in the evening? I could probably make it if that's the case, not sure if anyone is in the same boat as me? Would be much better and allow me to participate in just about every race for the rest of the season... Anyway, let me know-

Cheers,

The race starts are so notoriously off-schedule anyway I'd be fine with pushing it later as long as we can actually start on time. Being all ready to race at 4:30 and not actually getting on track for 30-60 min causes more trouble than planning to start later.

oh, 1'23.* is what you should be shooting for for quali pace. I did a 1'23.6 yesterday and I think NepalII said he was able to get 1'23.5 before. So I expect the front row to be in the 23's and bubble around 1'25.5.
I figure a consistent 1'24.low is a good race pace.


I understand but I haven't been able to find the right setup for that corner. Don't think I'll find it by Sunday so a one-stopper seems to be my only option.

when I get home from work I'm going to post my car setup. you might be able to use that to blend some more stability into your tune.

Specifically for turn 9, I noticed that (at least with my springing) it's all about rear camber. Rear camber @ 1.2 and lower I lose rear grip in turn 9 and can't hold it at the 80-85 mph I need for fast times. And if I bump it up over 1.8 I get bad understeer in turns 4,7,8,9. 1.4-1.6 was the sweet spot.
 
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Gotcha RE: the time. Too bad! But I understand the reasoning behind the time.

Still ok if I participate in qualifying? Will be a lot of fun to do, yet won't stop someone from getting in to the race (assuming I make top 14.)

Let me know, Thx-

Nick
 
MÜLE_9242;5658358
4:30 allows the Europeans to join in. It was also what people voted for.


Also, I looked up on Amazon, and a DFGT + 21" monitor + adapters for hooking it up to the PS3 are just under $400. :(

I'd have been able to get that by now if the dumb yarn factory didn't suck.

you shouldn't need any "adapters". Lots of monitors on the market will take an HDMI. Or there are also these things called small LCD televisions which make great playstation monitors (most will also take DVI to run a PC).

$400 sounds too steep IMO.
You should be able to get a small (~24") 1080p LCD TV or monitor with HDMI input for ~$200 and a DFGT IIRC is only a $99 item.
 
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Regarding the start time of the races, I know that I probably won't make the Grand Finale on August 21. I have an MBA conference at 2:30 which is scheduled to last approximately two hours. So any championship hopes for me are negated since the final race cannot be dropped.
 
forget that. We should be allowed to drop the finale. Also tbh I don't know how I feel about people getting extra points for Sarthe... I know it's really petty to mention it now especially since I d/c'ed but I was thinking about here in my dental chair under the influence of drugs and was like, "blblblunununnnnnn, whaa? Man it's not like you get extra points for winning the 24 hours of Le Mans right? herpppp"

I dunno
 
you shouldn't need any "adapters". Lots of monitors on the market will take an HDMI. Or there are also these things called small LCD televisions which make great playstation monitors (most will also take DVI to run a PC).

$400 sounds too steep IMO.
You should be able to get a small (~24") 1080p LCD TV or monitor with HDMI input for ~$200 and a DFGT IIRC is only a $99 item.

Mind you this is also in Canadian dollars, so things will be more expensive (even though our money has been around the same as yours for a while now).

http://www.amazon.ca/gp/offer-listing/B0015HYPOO/ref=dp_olp_new?ie=UTF8&qid=1311889309&sr=8-1&condition=new

There is a used one that's cheaper, but I don't know if I can trust a used one or not.

The adapters are just 5 bucks each, lol. One of which is an RCA to 3.5mm adapter so I can plug directly into my ipod docker, which has the best sound quality out of anything in the house.

I also don't have an HDMI cable, which is the reason for getting the HDMI to DVI cable.



Forced: I don't see why not, really.

Brosif and wardez: The reason for saying you can't drop the last race was so for when the last race came by, there were no doubts as to what the championship race is (who needs to finish where, etc.). We're probably going to add a race before Nurburgring anyway.

The extra points for Sarthe were to help add to the "big race" feel of it. First I've seen some criticize that, to be honest. :/
 
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Specifically for turn 9, I noticed that (at least with my springing) it's all about rear camber. Rear camber @ 1.2 and lower I lose rear grip in turn 9 and can't hold it at the 80-85 mph I need for fast times. And if I bump it up over 1.8 I get bad understeer in turns 4,7,8,9. 1.4-1.6 was the sweet spot.
Idea!!!

I went back and looked at my camber settings. Way, way too high. Went down to I believe a 1.1/1.6 and did another run in the Lounge. Finally saw a few high 1:23s on my screen. On one run, I had the perfect lap going and it looked like a 1:23.4 was within sight but I botched T13 losing about .3 seconds.

There is a side effect to my changes, though. The car is undrivable after 15 laps so any hopes of doing only one stop is pretty much done for.
 
Hey Doc are you still going to post your tune? Please please please. LOL

:lol: I was typing it while you posted. ;P


Aero: 20F 45R

Transmission:
1 - 3.465
2 - 2.490
3 - 1.890
4 - 1.480
5 - 1.210
6 - 1.035
F 4.510

LSD:
10
40
20

Ride Height: -21F -16R
Spring: 7.5F 12.4R
Extension: 6F 10R
Compression 5F 8R
Roll Bars: 7F 5R
Camber: 0.6F 1.6R
Toe: -0.04F +0.02R

Brake: 6F 4R
 
Also, I would like to ask a question. What is this I read that the suspention settings are backwards. I.E. front is rear and rear is front. Any truth to that?
 
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