My T500RS "Even Stiffer" Brake Mod

  • Thread starter mrbasher
  • 305 comments
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Just wanted to post and show what you get if I send you the bushings and plate:

bushings.jpg


(The plate shown here is a little different than the one I was sending out. I liked this thickness of metal better, it was easier to machine.)

I have been using these for more than a year now.
I really love the way they changed the brake feeling and the mod helped me improve my lap times ... a lot !

But I'm still not completely happy with the stiffnes. It may be just me, but I would like a little more throw and a little bit softer feel.
I guess the new set (purple/orange) will be worth a try ?

Somebody changed from the original whites to the new combination ?

(I did try one white bushing, but did not like the feel)
 
I have been using these for more than a year now.
I really love the way they changed the brake feeling and the mod helped me improve my lap times ... a lot !

But I'm still not completely happy with the stiffnes. It may be just me, but I would like a little more throw and a little bit softer feel.
I guess the new set (purple/orange) will be worth a try ?

Somebody changed from the original whites to the new combination ?

(I did try one white bushing, but did not like the feel)

I thought the current purple/orange were stiffer than the original white ones that MrBasher had. Hopefully he can confirm. If a single white bush isn't giving you a longer throw and softer feel try and find out a lower durometer on RipTide's site.

edit - no I'm wrong I thought the white ones were 43a that was described like taffy :D
 
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The Khiro white bushings I was originally using are 73a durometer and the new Riptide ones are 60a and 70a. The 60's might give you what you're looking for. Many many people are using two 60's it seems.

If you're in the US an entire new kit is pretty cheap. Maybe I'll just give you a bit of a discount since your purchase once already ;) Email me through my site with your email and I'll get you set up.

Jon
 
I've had mine for a couple of weeks now, definitely worth it, even though you're not spending much in the first place!
 
The Khiro white bushings I was originally using are 73a durometer and the new Riptide ones are 60a and 70a. The 60's might give you what you're looking for. Many many people are using two 60's it seems.

If you're in the US an entire new kit is pretty cheap. Maybe I'll just give you a bit of a discount since your purchase once already ;) Email me through my site with your email and I'll get you set up.

Jon
I thought as much, guess it's time to try new ones.
Sadly I'm not in the US, still in Belgium (where these things are really difficult to find).
I will contact you soon, thanks Jon 👍

--------------------------------Edit: you got mail :D---------------------------
 
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I think this is a good place for this....

I have a customer that wanted some help with the installation of the foam piece which make sense given that I don't really explain it well in the instructions. So I decided to make a video. Unfortunately, I did so this evening after well... a few beers. :D Hey, I'm trying to wind down. Got a lot on my mind right now and been working hard all day. This is the result: (How to install a single bushing with the foam. Laugh if you like... I'm posting because it's funny and informative)



Oh, and the mark on my hand is just a scar from a burn.
 
By uploading that video to Youtube under the name "John G." and not your mrbasher channel is proof that you had been drinking. :P
 
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I've started with the 2 soft pieces and now probably 4 months later at 2 hard piece. I really like the progression you can get out of these ever without going to load cell...I didn't really like my AP Electrix setup I had on the G25 and this really fills that in between gap...
 
The Khiro white bushings I was originally using are 73a durometer and the new Riptide ones are 60a and 70a. The 60's might give you what you're looking for. Many many people are using two 60's it seems.

If you're in the US an entire new kit is pretty cheap. Maybe I'll just give you a bit of a discount since your purchase once already ;) Email me through my site with your email and I'll get you set up.

Jon
Kit well received. Will install tomorrow. Thanks Jon 👍
 
I think this is a good place for this....

I have a customer that wanted some help with the installation of the foam piece which make sense given that I don't really explain it well in the instructions. So I decided to make a video. Unfortunately, I did so this evening after well... a few beers. :D Hey, I'm trying to wind down. Got a lot on my mind right now and been working hard all day. This is the result: (How to install a single bushing with the foam. Laugh if you like... I'm posting because it's funny and informative)



Oh, and the mark on my hand is just a scar from a burn.


First of all this is a great mod, so thanks for developing a great idea! Even though I've had it for a while, this weekend was the time I've gotten time to install and test. Definitely eliminates the dead zone on the pedal and I'm averaging a good 10-15 MPH higher into corners.

When using a single bushing would it be advantages to center it and put foam on both sides?
 
Major thread necro here but... I have a serious question.

I had a customer tell me that the holes on the plate were not far enough apart. (it was true, he showed me photos) This is the first I had heard of this, but I wanted to ask and see if anyone else had this issue recently? His wheel was a GT6 branded one. If this is the case, I need to widen the holes up a little. Please respond if you had this issue or if you own a GT6 wheel (and the mod) and did not notice this.

Thanks!
 
I have ordered this mod, waiting for it to arrive :)

I have a question about the calibration issue tough. Do i have to calibrate the pedals both in the Windows driver and inside Iracing at every boot of the computer?
 
I have ordered this mod, waiting for it to arrive :)

I have a question about the calibration issue tough. Do i have to calibrate the pedals both in the Windows driver and inside Iracing at every boot of the computer?

You only have to calibrate once in iRacing and you never need to calibrate in Windows calibration.

The "pressing hard on the pedal" bit does need to be done once each time your wheel powers up, after it finishes it's calibration (wheel spinning)
 
Major thread necro here but... I have a serious question.

I had a customer tell me that the holes on the plate were not far enough apart. (it was true, he showed me photos) This is the first I had heard of this, but I wanted to ask and see if anyone else had this issue recently? His wheel was a GT6 branded one. If this is the case, I need to widen the holes up a little. Please respond if you had this issue or if you own a GT6 wheel (and the mod) and did not notice this.

Thanks!

My new t500 pedals should arrive today, I'll let you know of anything that doesn't fit buddy 👍

Jerome
 
You only have to calibrate once in iRacing and you never need to calibrate in Windows calibration.

The "pressing hard on the pedal" bit does need to be done once each time your wheel powers up, after it finishes it's calibration (wheel spinning)

Thanks Basher!

I got the package today, the mod is installed and im learning to drive with it as we speak. Thanks for quick delivery!
 
Installed the basher mod without any issues and I didn't think the stock brake pedal was too bad, the basher mod made it great. However, I don't think the T500RS pedals will suit my needs. I can't use pedals with the base plate in front of the pedals, d'oh!


Jerome
 
Installed the basher mod without any issues and I didn't think the stock brake pedal was too bad, the basher mod made it great. However, I don't think the T500RS pedals will suit my needs. I can't use pedals with the base plate in front of the pedals, d'oh!


Jerome
Turn them around, you can...
 
LOL, when it rains it pours, brake is now sticking, so something is prob. up with the pots...
...then I discovered one of my 60A durometer bushings had also busted in half.

BustedBushing.jpg
 
I did not think this was even possible. You must have done some intense braking :)

That's what is so strange about it, I don't exert much pressure on the brake pedal because I am 0 ABS driver.
I have always been 0 ABS since getting the pedals back in GT5, and having done this mod.

The only time the brake really gets a good solid pump is when I calibrate them.
0 ABS braking requires delicate light tapping instead of mashing the brake.
Mashing the brake with 0 ABS in GT5/GT6 = instant wheel lock.

I am thinking in might have been chemical reaction to cleaner or lubricant...
...or perhaps recent extreme temp fluctuation we had caused them to get brittle.
There is dark line where it separated that's not really visible in the pic.
 
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That's what is so strange about it, I don't exert much pressure on the brake pedal because I am 0 ABS driver.
I have always been 0 ABS since getting the pedals back in GT5, and having done this mod.

The only time the brake really gets a good solid pump is when I calibrate them.
0 ABS braking requires delicate light tapping instead of mashing the brake.
Mashing the brake with 0 ABS in GT5/GT6 = instant wheel lock.

I am thinking in might have been chemical reaction to cleaner or lubricant...
...or perhaps recent extreme temp fluctuation we had caused them to get brittle.
There is dark line where it separated that's not really visible in the pic.
How did you place them ?
1, 2, horizontally, vertically ?
If you have only one, they seem to "wander around" while applying te brake. That could cause a "mechanical" break (I read somewhere).
But as you say, if you are a 0 ABS driver, you don't have to apply much pressure.

I did that for a while driving my Audi R8 LMS Phoenix around the ring (a lot), but since I'm working on doing that with ALL my cars, I switched back to ABS1, since every car reacts different under braking. [end off - topic]
 
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