Obtaining Better B-Spec Stats ??

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All this stuff (Orion ;)) is confusing me... and I don't get confused easily. )D

So, I am at 9741/100/97/96 (the C&B are roughly), what tracks (stubborn ones?) would have the points I need? What cars should I use/what are the best for picking up final points?
 
blue_sharky39
All this stuff (Orion ;)) is confusing me... and I don't get confused easily. )D

So, I am at 9741/100/97/96 (the C&B are roughly), what tracks (stubborn ones?) would have the points I need? What cars should I use/what are the best for picking up final points?
Unfortunately, the process for cleaning up points is the same as starting over from scratch. Starting over is probably quicker because then there is a method for checking lost points along the way. However, many people have had some success cleaning up lost point from games in progress.

I can't tell where your points are hiding, but many people find a lot of points using the lowest class of veheicles. Tracks that are raced less frequently in event races tend to hide many points. Long tracks tend to hold points for low power cars, and high power cars often find points on short tracks. Unless you have detailed records of points earned from each race and what car was used, I can't be more specific.

You have plenty of points to win any race, and the B-spec driver won't get much better than he is already. Collecting all 10000 is a long, boring, and frustrating process. And because you don't have a chance to double check the points with hard milestone scores, there is a pretty good chance you will complete the "method" and still be a couple points short of the perfect score.

If you decide to make the attempt, the place to start is on SportWagon's B-spec reference thread. He provides links to the key messages that explain the JP method for collecting 10000 B-spec points - read every link. You can also scroll down a little for my reference post which contains links to addition information for collecting floating points, and non-standard cars and tunings.

https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/showthread.php?t=69405
 
Asked B spec to do what would be some 50 to 60 ASpec point races in the Japanese 90's events. Driving a R32 Skyline Bob could not catch a MX5.
Bob at 9973 still sucks.
 
FINALLY
the first B spec points for 5 months!!! i got from 9650 to 9659 by running the impreza prototype C1 on the twin ring Speedway!!!

yyyyAYYYYYYY

It means that there is HOPE
 
everyone in this thread thanks.
the information really helped and once i finish doing the nurb 5 more times with my fgt
(want different colors)
ill def try to get my b spec to 10k
hes almost at 8k
i only have like 40 a spec points :P
 
SUROKIA
now im at 9704/100/97/96
Best of luck on your collection, it looks good so far. Is everything going as expected? BTW, when collecting stray points, be very suspicious of tracks that provide between +6 and +11 points, they almost always hide additional points. Also, it's good to see someone trying the new tunings.
 
Hi, everyone! I also, have some problems with my b-spec points. Ićm using VW Lupo, Mazda Miata, Toyota RSC Rally Raid Car and Nissan 350 Z Concept LM Race Car. I've allready driven those cars on Nurburgring and Lupo on World Circuits and i have for now 4817/81/61/21. The thing i want to know is: Are there any difference when you drive all the tracks with Lupo first and when you finish all 58 of them, continue with Miata all 58 etc. Or is it better when you drive all cars first on Tsukuba, then all cars(in the above order) on Fuji Speedway 90's, then on Fuji Speedway 80's and so on... Which is the best and the fastest way to obtain b-spec points. Before i drove all of the World Circuits i had 4524/80/58/17. The points are accending a bit slow i believe. I don't know any more, it's confusing. Thank's in advance for your help.
 
Oh, and I forgott to ask, how much b-spec points are enough to win endurance races? My usual A-spec points are 10-50, i'm on 77% of the game and i have 9728 A spec points. Thank's!
 
You should be able to win most of the endurance races with the points you have if you use a powerful enough car. However, it shouldn't be too hard to boost your points up to the 8000 level.

You'd better start with a review of SportWagon's reference link page; you seem to be missing some of the basics.
https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/showthread.php?t=69405

You are not done with the Nurburgring tunings. There are 8 different cars/tunings that need to be covered to collect all 7000/100/70/70 floating points. Don't stop until all 8 tunings produce no more points, and the machine points are maxed at 100. Otherwise, stray floating points might confuse the data for the track point collection.

Your battle skill is really suffering; it should be even with the course skill. All races must be close or you won't collect as many battle points. On Nurburgring, set the difficulty for level -2, the pace at 1, and overtake off until after the second split (hairpin). Then leave overtake on and adjust the pace (or difficulty setting) as needed to win by less than 14 seconds - much less if possible. The idea is to slowly overtake the opposition 1 car at a time and make the final pass going down the last straight. Try to keep the sector arrow in front of your car as much as possible.

On other tracks the no passing rule isn't as firm; try to wait 13 seconds before passing, but don't worry too much if this doesn't work out - especially on short tracks. The difficulty setting doesn't appear to influence the points; a pace of -6 or less will probably be needed for the short tracks.

When you finish the Nurburgring tunings, the most points that can earned on a single track is +14. But this is rare and only occurs when the course and battle fractions resolve on the same race. Each of the 58 B-spec tracks holds 12 and 27/29 points. So usually +13 points are earned, but every 14 tracks or so only +12 is earned - this is normal.
 
Tizhu
Oh, and I forgott to ask, how much b-spec points are enough to win endurance races? My usual A-spec points are 10-50, i'm on 77% of the game and i have 9728 A spec points. Thank's!

I would say anything above 6000, but it's really dependant on the car you choose to race with and, I guess, the nature of the race (for instance, Circuit de la Sarthe I & II are challenging at minimum, due to the 'drive-into-the-wall-like-a-retarded-idiot' glitch). If you choose a car that far outclasses the competition, well, you could get through without any B-Spec points.

FormulaGT

EDIT: Your exaplanation, is a lot better than mine Orion! Oh, My stats are 98/86/86 - 8665 (i think), but I can't seem to get any more points for machine skill. Any tips?
 
The machine points occasionally get stuck if don't follow the JP method from scratch, I have no idea why. The normal cars fail to produce the expected points, and it's difficult to tell where they should be. The solution is to try different cars. This used to be a random process, but recently the classes have been better defined for many cars.

You could try the Nike and Prowler in photo or practice mode around the Ring - this trick has worked in the past. Or, try the cars from the Alternate Tunings or Alternate Collection Methods from the link below. My guess is that you are missing points from the A-1 through B-2 sub-classes. The machine points from the C-1 through D-2 sub-class don't get stuck quite as often.

https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/showthread.php?p=2158833#post2158833
 
OK, I've decided to try and obtain 10,000 for proper this time.

I'm currently at 9780/100/97/97.

Somewhat bizarrely, Fisco 2005 + RSC Rally Raid = 18 pts... (well, that's what I got from it)
 
blue_sharky39
OK, I've decided to try and obtain 10,000 for proper this time.

I'm currently at 9780/100/97/97.

Somewhat bizarrely, Fisco 2005 + RSC Rally Raid = 18 pts... (well, that's what I got from it)
Fuji's are great tracks for floating points. I had an easy time on Fuji '90s collecting B-2 points with a Ginnetta. I suspect that you wriggled loose a few stubborn floating battle points with a particularly good race. There are only 12 and 27/29th track points on each track, anything more than +14 must be earned from floating points.
 
Hopefully I won't get stuck on 9998 then :)

I also find that obtaining points is easier if you set opposition cars onto +2 or +3, that way you can have B-spec on pace 3-4, and it also ensures better battles (helps with battle points, I presume)
 
The thing that matters with battle points is winning by a slim margin, but a close second is usually good enough. It doesn't matter if the opposition was set at +2, +3, or -10. Nor does it matter (for course battle points anyway) what the pace is set to.
 
Hey everyone, I'm just about finished with the B-1 class (I'm using the original tunings recommended by the JP author) in collecting the floating points on Nurburgring. I have the following stats: 2241/37/23/22. I've done 3 or 4 cups with the Miata 1800 RS+supercharger, on difficulties from -4 to -1. Still haven't gotten those last 8 B-spec skill pts. Any suggestions?
 
Did you meet the A-1 (598/12/6/5) and A-2 (1335/25/14/13) milestones without and problems?

When the usual cars don't provide the expected points, try an alternate car or tuning. I've tested a max HP setting for the Miata, and an alternate car and tuning (SiR-II) for B-1. The JP author has also tested many of the prize cars for their B-spec sub-class. Check the post below for more information on maximizing floating points and alternate tunings.

https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/showthread.php?p=2158833#post2158833


Alternate B-1 Cars/Tunings tested by Orion_SR

Miata 1800 RS, S1 tires, 304HP
Honda Civic SiR-II (EG) '91 (258HP, Racing Hard (R2)
Honda Civic SiR-II (EG) '95 (262HP, Racing Hard (R2)

JP Tested B-1 Prize Cars
Honda NSX-R Concept '01 (513)
Mercury Cougar XR-7 '67 (512)
Suzuki GSX-R/4 '01 (512)
Chevrolet Chevelle SS 454 '70 (509)
Shelby Mustang GT 350R '65 (509)
Chevrolet Silverado SST Concept '02 (507)
Dodge Charger Super Bee 426 Hemi '71 (507)
 
I met the previous milestones just as predicted. It took me about 5 or 6 races for each of them though. I was wondering if my Miata needing a Rigidity Refresher could've been the problem (haven't purchased it yet to check). But it wouldn't make sense unless it was Machine points that I was missing. Anyhow, I'll try those alternate tunings. That's probably what I need to do.
 
Dude?
I met the previous milestones just as predicted. It took me about 5 or 6 races for each of them though. I was wondering if my Miata needing a Rigidity Refresher could've been the problem (haven't purchased it yet to check). But it wouldn't make sense unless it was Machine points that I was missing. Anyhow, I'll try those alternate tunings. That's probably what I need to do.

Here are my experiences on the first 7051 points.

I used the JP cars also; Lupo, Miata 1800, RSC Rally Raid, and Nissan 350Z (Fairlady Z). I purchased my Miata new, however; I didn't go with the used one.

I started by doing five B-spec practice laps on the 'ring. I know now that wasn't at all necessary however it may have saved me a race. My rather naive thinking at the time was to give the B-spec driver a look at the track so to speak before jumping into the racing. Anyway, this netted me 370/11/5/0 points.

From there it took four family cup races with the Lupo to reach 598/12/6/5. I used difficulties of -3, -3, -2 and -1 and the margins of victory were 2.310, 2.555, 13.817 and 0.977 seconds.

Three races with Miata-A got me to 1335/25/14/13, all at difficulty -2, and margins of victory of 2.099, 1.488 and 1.159.

Three races with Miata B got me to 2249/37/23/22, all at difficulty -2, unfortunately I didn't record the margins of victory but they were all close.

Miata-C took nine races to reach 3326/50/35/33, the first three at -3 and the last six at -2 difficulty. Again, no times.

RSC-A, four races to 4416/62/46/44, all difficulty -2, no times.

RSC-B, six races to 5399/75/55/53, difficulties of -6, -6, -2, -2, -4, -4, no times.

350Z-A, four races to 6290/87/63/62, all at -6, no times.

350Z-B, two races to 7051/100/70/70, both at -6, no times.

And that adds up to 35 races, not the 34 I thought I'd run. Hmm, that (finally!) accounts for the extra game day I'd been wondering about. But I've digressed.

The strategy I evolved over the course of the races was to always start at pace 1 and overtake off, leaving it strictly alone until the second split, just after the first hairpin at Aremberg. I would then increase the pace, usually to 3, to close on the fifth place car. If there was a big gap between the leaders and the fifth place car I'd toggle overtake on until I passed, otherwise I just hung back trying to stay in its tail.

Often there would be two cars, a big gap, then one or two cars, perhaps another gap, then the backmarkers. If there was a gap between second and third I'd use the pace and overtake to move into third just at the start of the second lap or shortly thereafter. I'd use the pace to close on the leaders, getting right on their tail by somewhere just past the Caracciola Karussel. I'd then move into second place and get on the leader's tail somewhere around Schwalbenschwanz (or "kleiner Karussel"). With the Lupo and Miatas I'd hold off until near the end of the long straight to overtake, with the RSC and 350Z I'd turn overtake on at the beginning of the straight and sometimes even coming around Galgenkopf. The idea is to hold off as long as possible while still having enough time to successfully overtake so that you win the race by as little as possible. I was usually able to win by one or two seconds.

This is not a hard and fast procedure, rather a general guideline on how to conduct a race. After a few races you develop an intuition for when to change the pace, when and when not to overtake, and how to recover from an accidental or uncommanded overtake. Generally I found myself constantly adjusting the pace to try to control the position of the car.

Incidentally if you're unsure of the names of the various sections of the track and can't find a map with them marked, take a leisurely drive around the track in your favorite just-plain-drive-it car; the '68 Camaro and Jaguar E-type work for me. When you see one of those green signs with yellow lettering slow down or stop and read it. They all have the names of that particular section on them.

If I had to hazard a guess as to why it's taking you longer than you'd expected to collect the points, I'd say you're winning (or losing) by too much.

Good luck, hope this helps in some way.
 
Thanks Orion_SR! That alternate tuning for B-1 (I used the Miata of course, since I already had it) class worked and helped me finish up that class. Now, onto B-2...
 
So thanks to several people around here I managed start at 0 and get to the 10,000 point without too much trouble at all. Just had one point that I had to go back and find which ended up being the Miata +supercharger at Super Speedway.

TAB-spec100.jpg


I attached my Excel file I used for tracking of everything if anyone is interested. The color coding is just when I had a track car combo that I repeated.
 

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TornadoAlley
So thanks to several people around here I managed start at 0 and get to the 10,000 point without too much trouble at all. Just had one point that I had to go back and find which ended up being the Miata +supercharger at Super Speedway.

I attached my Excel file I used for tracking of everything if anyone is interested. The color coding is just when I had a track car combo that I repeated.

Nice work TornadoAlley. I reviewed your spreadsheet records and wanted to make a few points on the data. The first warning that a fraction was missing was when you failed to reach the 8500 milestone half way through the sweeps. I always recommend repeating the tracks between milestones to clean up missing points. Fortunately nothing else was dropped in the higher classes because it would be difficult to know where to search.

Nice scores, BTW. Especially race #11, the second B-1 race. Earning +39 is a great score, that must have been a very good race.

When I openned the spreadsheet I got a warning message because of a macro. You might want to consider reposting your data without the macro to avoid alarming people. Or, consider including a .csv file in the zipped archive.
 
Orion_SR
When I openned the spreadsheet I got a warning message because of a macro. You might want to consider reposting your data without the macro to avoid alarming people. Or, consider including a .csv file in the zipped archive.

Thanks for the comments Orion. I use macros here and there and forget to remove them when I upload the spreadsheets. I went ahead and edited the attachment to remove the macros.

I forgot to check for points at each checkpoint :ouch: and did get lucky that the point I missed as fairly easy to find.
 
Just started my quest to max out my B-Spec drivers skills, wanted a break from trying to max out A-Spec points and having to fill in my own little A-Spec point Excell checklist.

Now I realise how annoying that automatic gear side of things is (considering, unlike us, the computer won't hit max revs in each gear so end's up going slower overally..)


Start -------------------------- 8495 97/86/78
A-1 Lupo, the Ring, family cup -- 8641 99/87/80
A-2 MX-5, the Ring, family cup -- 8643 99/87/80
B-1 MX-5, the Ring, family cup -- 8656 99/87/80
B-2 MX-5 ---------=--------- -- 8676 99/87/81
C-1 RSC, ---------=--------- -- 8676 99/87/81
C-2 RSC, ----------=-------- -- 8676 99/87/81
D-1 350Z, ----------=------- -- 8676 99/87/81
D-2 350Z, ----------=------- -- 8676 99/87/81


Then I went onto the last 3,000

A - Lupo, 2 tracks - 8686 99/87/81
--------- 4 tracks - 8690 99/87/81
--------- 5 tracks - 8703 99/87/81

But then got the advice to max out Machine Skill first

A-2 MX-5, Fuji 80s, family cup ---- 8712 99/87/82
C-1 RSC, Fuji 80s, family cup ------ 8716 99/87/82
A-1 Lupo, Fuji 90s, family cup ----- 8721 99/87/82
A-1 Lupo, Fuji 2005, family cup - -- 8738 99/87/82
A-1 Lupo, Fuji 2005 GT, family cup - 8751 99/87/82
B-1.5 MX-5, Fuji '05, family cup ---- 8752 99/87/82 (tuned somewhere between B1 and B2)
B-1.5 MX-5, Fuji '05 GT, family cup - 8763 99/87/83 (tuned somewhere between B1 and B2)
B-3 MX-5, Fuji '05, family cup ------ 8765 99/87/83 (yes I made one up, tuned to the max)
C-1 RSC, Fuji 05, family cup -------- 8766 99/87/83
C-1 RSC, Fuji 05 GT, family cup ---- 8779 99/88/83 (getting everywhere but that last M point lol)
C-2 RSC, Fuji 05, family cup ------- 8782 99/88/83
 
Congratulations, TornadoAlley, nice job! I'd agree that doing it from scratch isn't particularly difficult once you get the hang of it, but it is incredibly tedious.

Spike, you're definitely missing a floating point or two if your machine skill is less than 100. If Nurburgring doesn't appear to be yielding anything more then try all eight cars on one of the Fuji tracks, which are also also known to be fairly generous with floating points. Then go on to the sweeps. Good luck with it.
 
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