Patch 2.0 - All Platforms

Somebody on thr SMS forums had the same problem but they fixed by changing the profiler on a fanatec. Not sure which one but it changing profiler 1 to 2 or maybe it was 2 to 1 . I dont have Fanatec so i didnt pay much attention.

I have no idea how to do that. Do you remember what thread it was in?
 
VBR
Well, after patch 2.0 my wheel doesn't work at all. So, I tried recalibrating it only to find that the game now thinks my Fanatec GT2 is a Turbo S! It won't calibrate the wheel properly & it won't even recognise any inputs from my pedals at all. Two months of trying to play this game is making me feel like giving up now, enough is enough.

SMS has given me the best experience ever of interacting with a game developer. However, Project CARS has been the single worst gaming experience of my whole life.


:(

Did you go back into your assignments and map your pedals? I've had it lose my wheel assignments several times, at first I think it's not working but when I realize I have to reassign everything it suddenly works again. Bit of a pain, but I bet if you go back to your assignments tab you can get it all sorted.
 
Did you go back into your assignments and map your pedals? I've had it lose my wheel assignments several times, at first I think it's not working but when I realize I have to reassign everything it suddenly works again. Bit of a pain, but I bet if you go back to your assignments tab you can get it all sorted.

How do I map assignments?
 
VBR
How do I map assignments?

I'm presuming it's the same on PS4 as on PC...........in the same screen where you choose your wheel and calibrate your FFB there is a tab on the top-right called "edit assignments" and from there you map which button/control you want to what you want it to do. There will be an option for "throttle" and "brake", click it and then press the pedal you want to be assigned to that control. You'll probably have to do it with your wheel too, click "steering" and then move your wheel all the way to one direction until it recognizes the input.

VBR
Thanks for trying to help, but that's a completely different issue. My wheel is calibrating fine when I turn it on. However, I can't calibrate the pedals in the wheel menu as it's showing the menu for the Turbo S wheel & I have a Fanatec GT2 wheel.

You should be able to click left or right until it highlights your particular wheel (again, presuming it's the same on PS4 as on PC).
 
I'm presuming it's the same on PS4 as on PC...........in the same screen where you choose your wheel and calibrate your FFB there is a tab on the top-right called "edit assignments" and from there you map which button/control you want to what you want it to do. There will be an option for "throttle" and "brake", click it and then press the pedal you want to be assigned to that control. You'll probably have to do it with your wheel too, click "steering" and then move your wheel all the way to one direction until it recognizes the input.



You should be able to click left or right until it highlights your particular wheel (again, presuming it's the same on PS4 as on PC).

Thanks for the detailed information Brandon, I'll give it a go & report back.


EDIT: Doesn't help at all. Like I said, I have a Fanatec GT2 but the menu is showing up as a Turbo S, none of my pedals are working & I can't calibrate them as no inputs are registering. When I tried using the assignments it registered my throttle as a brake & my brake didn't even register as anything.



UPDATE: Been doing some trouble shooting today, & here's what I found;


Tried GT2 & G25 pedals in another game, pedals still weren't working. So not a Project CARS problem, but an issue with the wheel. Fixed the issue in Project CARS by going to track, pausing the game, then unplugging the pedals & plugging them back in.

Can now calibrate the pedals, but the game is still showing the turbo S menu instead of the GT2 menu, so that's still a weird problem.

Calibrated the wheel, but realised I had to hold until the read out said 900 degrees instead of trying to hold it at a 90 degree angle as the game suggests.

The wheel was off center again after the update, & I had to set it back to center again (see wheel manual).


Thought I'd post this in case any GT2 wheel owners get similar issues.


👍
 
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That's what I did earlier but then my wheel started playing up, the buttons stopped responding.
yes i can confirm, you can no more activate the game with the controller and then move to the wheel. at least with the t300 the wheel will not be workin
Bet you have master scale at 50 or so. My t300 is fine and was since day 1... I never updated its firmware but not sure if it matters. Have you tried resetting your wheel settings and reinput them? What settings do you use?
you have to update the firmware! it really improves cooling and so on. really don't miss the update.
 
however good news so far, game is working way better. rainy races now are really good and tyres type matters for you and for the AI. AI is faster overall and way cleaner. I had probably the best qualyfing experience in a game right now with the gt3 round at watkins glen under the storm. really amazing.

Also steering wheel (t300 here) improved a lot.

happy with the update right now.
 
Right for those with T300 reducing the tire force is supposed to fix the centre spring issue, Set at 30 then start to move up until suits.
to be honest it's too low as a value, i have tire force at 100 and feels almost perfect... however it doesn't bother me at all. again to be honest i read here of this issue and noticed it in the game at release date, if it was for me it was fine from the begininng. But i'm not an hardcore gamer, works very well, it's enough for me.
 
I wish I had my wheel.. - it is so weird that a lot of people are saying the centering spring is improved and then others say it is exactly the same. - Ian telling them to lower tire force to fix the issue is sad as, that controls all forces. It should be very obvious. When you stop and turn the wheel all the way in one direction then creep forward (and I mean very slow like 2mph).. it should slowly and naturally straiten out no mater how high or low the force is set. - higher force should not equal the wheel straitening out faster - it should depend on traction and the car's wheel/tire diameter. A higher force just means if you resist the wheel turning it fights you more.


- I may not be completely correct in my explanation with how FFB works in games but I know before patch 2.0 it was not right in project cars.
 
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I've got the tyre force on my T300RS at 65. The centring is quite strong but a big improvement on how it was before.

I agree with those saying the patch simply turned down the tyre force. IB gave the problem away a few days ago when saying some wheels had the centre spring 'baked' on. Reckon Thrustmaster wheels are those with the problem, or at least one of them.
 
I've got the tyre force on my T300RS at 65. The centring is quite strong but a big improvement on how it was before.

I agree with those saying the patch simply turned down the tyre force. IB gave the problem away a few days ago when saying some wheels had the centre spring 'baked' on. Reckon Thrustmaster wheels are those with the problem, or at least one of them.

Here's a video i took right after the PCars vid, It's Driveclub centering itself........



It's defo not a Thrustmaster problem.
 
@UkHardcore23 Your video of Drive Club looks more natural, and your latest video with TF at 32 shows the result of the issue well.

Even with the spring like that in pCARS I still really enjoyed the game .. it is just a bit frustrating knowing some of the FFB is being used on an unnatural centering force.
 
Here's a video i took right after the PCars vid, It's Driveclub centering itself........



It's defo not a Thrustmaster problem.
It's probable that the centre spring force is different in the driver protocols between the games so it is still likely a TM problem, but not with the wheel obviously, with the drivers. SMS might need to ask for a driver update but it depends on if they recognize how annoying the issue is and that suggesting turning down tire force is a poor comprimise compared to fixing the issue. It should really be completely adjustable within the game if possible.
 
I haven't really played the game since 1.3, but the game is more broken than when I first played it (Fanatec GT3 on PC)! Ian Bell said "We didn't change the 1.3 system. We removed user reported bugs only.", but it's more like they are passing the bugs around between different users. Some people report bugs being fixed, and others, like me, begin experiencing these bugs with new updates.

My FFB is really screwed up (with limited time to play I could only see myself playing with these settings for weeks to get something good), assignments constantly get reset, sound dropout (once, reset race and it worked), tunes getting reset, etc... It takes me several attempts to get all the settings correct, minus FFB, every time I boot up the came because some settings get reset menu to menu. There's probably a correct pattern. The big thing though is FFB. It has made the game unplayable to me. I can still drive but it isn't fun playing a sim with a wheel that acts nothing like it would in real life. Aside from the lack of time to tune the wheel, I could only see a future update messing things up again.

Hopefully some day the game will be good for everyone.
 
The 2.0 patch have downloaded on my ps4 and they did do some changes to the ai and the force feedback. I did notice a issue when I was driving the mclaren p1 around Bathurst and the issue is when I drive it out of the pits, the wheel would move like it is on a seesaw and the force feedback be lighter then normal but the car still go straight. My only guess is the tires is too cold to be driven fast since it only happens in a straight line.
 
not very happy, first thing that happened was he sickening low speed rumble in the steering the and white FFB line appeared on the screen. Happened with two cars in a row.
 
Ok set the tire force to 32 and it makes no difference to the centre spring issue



Arrrrrrrrrggggggggggghhhhhhhh


Compared to the video you posted pre-patch, there's a marked improvement I'd say. The wheel returns steadily, rather than violently and no longer rocks side to side.


 
Does this problem affect cars when you're actually driving?

It can be felt. Whether it's a problem, seems to depend on the individual.

When too strong, the wheel can snap back after tight turns. It can have the effect of exaggerating grip in some circumstances, making it difficult to take a line and it also makes it more challenging to tune by feel.

Much better on all counts post patch - in my opinion.
 
VBR
Thanks for the detailed information Brandon, I'll give it a go & report back.


EDIT: Doesn't help at all. Like I said, I have a Fanatec GT2 but the menu is showing up as a Turbo S, none of my pedals are working & I can't calibrate them as no inputs are registering. When I tried using the assignments it registered my throttle as a brake & my brake didn't even register as anything.



UPDATE: Been doing some trouble shooting today, & here's what I found;


Tried GT2 & G25 pedals in another game, pedals still weren't working. So not a Project CARS problem, but an issue with the wheel. Fixed the issue in Project CARS by going to track, pausing the game, then unplugging the pedals & plugging them back in.

Can now calibrate the pedals, but the game is still showing the turbo S menu instead of the GT2 menu, so that's still a weird problem.

Calibrated the wheel, but realised I had to hold until the read out said 900 degrees instead of trying to hold it at a 90 degree angle as the game suggests.

The wheel was off center again after the update, & I had to set it back to center again (see wheel manual).


Thought I'd post this in case any GT2 wheel owners get similar issues.


👍

Can you not change which wheel you're using in the settings screen? On the PC you can scroll through all the available wheel options until you find the one you're using. When I put on my F1 rim I go there and scroll over to T300 + F1 rim, when I put the standard rim back on I scroll over to T300. It may be different on the PS4, I don't know.
 
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