Here's my video showing why I say the tires are broken. I did an out lap then 2 laps conserving tires and then 2 laps pushing the tires.
All of my temperatures are in Fahrenheit. The track was 87 degrees with overcast. My biggest complaint is still the tires are too sensitive to load. This is fairly obvious watching the video. Going through the carousel the tires went up an average of 17 degrees from entry to exit when conserving them. When pushing the went up an average of 25 degrees. That's 25 degrees in one corner. That will put them at 260+ the more laps you do at that pace. That is the root of the problem right there. The tires are very sensible temperatures throughout the lap until you get to the middle of sector 2. Then they skyrocket for the rest of the lap. One thing about Road America is the right hand turns are mostly stop and go with low lateral loads while the left hand turns are high lateral load turns. This means the left side tires will always be hotter. However if you pause the video on the finish line on the second lap of each test you will see the right front is almost identical in both conserving and pushing yet the left front is 12 degrees hotter when pushing. Let's also not forget we were told by SMS softs on GT3 cars should last for a full fuel load. That isn't going to happen when your tires are over 240 when not even pushing. In real life they can run some 45 minutes plus, while still pushing the car. We're talking about cars that run 24 hour endurance races that can't even push on a soft tire for one lap now with out hitting 260 degrees on a track that's bellow 90 degrees.
Here's my setup if anyone wants to perform the same test with the same format.
View attachment 482155
Brakes 100 58 75
Mapping 5
Differential 30 63 40
Radiator 1
Transmission 3.61
Weight 52.5
Fuel 25
Thanks for the video, but yeah that set up isn't helping you. Obviously you didn't realise the front camber, and as it's broken, all it does is slow you down, and put more heat into the tyres when they're loaded up, which explains your much higher front temps than rears.
If you were getting that much more front temp than rear, I'd say you were scrubbing the fronts, but seeing that camber level, and as we can't see your steering input, I'll give you the benefit of the doubt, as it looks like you're driving smoothly in the laps where you're trying to be conservative.
One thing I did notice though, was in your conservative laps, your inputs looked smoother (again, can't tell about the steering input, but the car's attitude suggested smooth), but you were sustaining almost identical peak loads to your harder laps. When I was testing, I noticed I could be silky smooth, but putting too much lateral load on the tyres would still heat them up, especially if those loads were sustained in long corners. I was purposely allowing a little bit of room for the tyres, and not running the fronts close to the grip limit. Opening up the steering angle a bit, and only going slightly slower to allow it, was losing me less than a second per lap, but doing so allowed my temps to drop over the course of a lap by 10C, so keeping them level would allow even less conservation.
As for your set up, obviously you know where the camber should be, but also try increasing your rake angle, as this will give you a more positive front end in slow to medium corners, and will aid downforce. The added rake will mean you won't need those 2 degrees of negative toe on the front. Toe only gives you more initial turn in, which I hate, because right after that extra initial turn in, you will start scrubbing the fronts if you're not careful, as it gives you the impression of more front grip than you actually have. So use other settings to get a stronger front end, and get rid of the toe, as it will also add to your temps even if you're not scrubbing.
I also read this interesting post on the official forum:
"I get the impression from a lot of people that as soon as they come out of the pits, they just start driving hard like they did prior to patch 6.0. Beforehand, there was no preparation of the tyres for quali laps, and people were just going quickly as soon as they drive out the pits because the grip is already there and heat was never an issue. Nicholas Hamilton posted a fantastic post on WMD2 a while back (I'd like to quote it and put it in here for people to read if that's allowed?), but basically he was saying how fragile a brand new set of tyres are, and require heat cycles and care for the first couple of laps to build up towards a flying lap once the tyres and brakes are properly bedded in. Something we didn't need to do until now. I've half tested it with taking the outlap very easy, and then going harder on lap 2 and hoping to get the bast qualy lap on my 3rd or 4th lap of a run. Even from that I found the temperatures to be more manageable and don't increase quite as quickly. Obviously it still requires car and smooth inputs on the actual lap, but the pace and grip is better than if driving out the box and going from the off. The later just seems to flash heat the rubber, which is only going to make things worse if it's constantly happening with scrubbing and the tyres not having time to recover and cool down effectively. Basically you end up starting with good grip, flash heat, less grip, more steering lock, more scrubbing, more flash heat, further less grip, more steering lock and more scrubbing, which basically just goes on and on, snowballing producing poor lap times and very hot tyres. Take it easier on the first few laps, and then slowly build up the pace and the gentle progression of heat in the tyre will bed them in nicely giving you the grip and more stable temperatures you need. In the words of Nicholas Hamilton in that post: 'Allow the tyre to BRING you the time, instead of you trying to DRIVE for the time.'"