Physics thread

  • Thread starter LVracerGT
  • 1,459 comments
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McKiernan
Thank you man. To be fair @@Ridox2JZGTE did share his info with me via PM. I was curious what the thinking was behind why the info wasn't shared here for everyone though.
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Probably because he does not have Project CARS and he cant personally put to test these setups.
 
super_gt
Probably because he does not have Project CARS and he cant personally put to test these setups.
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Yes, I only have a few hours play time and didn't even managed to save a tune but I did get to drive the FQ400 and 1M stock setup. The Pcars 1M and FQ400 setup that I posted on the Pcars setup site are basically blind tune with straight adaptation of real life alignment and tire pressure, while spring + ARB are the closest value possible in pcars. The FQ400 rear ARB ( OEM Evo X rear ARB is higher/stiffer than max value in pcars, Eibach made even stiffer aftermarket part ), front + rear spring are lower but quite close in pcars, while the front spring rate of 1M also not possible, among few other things like FQ400 caster being locked which is way too high as the real Evo X has non adjustable caster at about 4+ degrees. So hopefully, they will drive decent but don't expect them to be race winner or lap time champ :lol: The FQ400 final drive really bogs the car as it should have 4.687 final for a 5 speed, which will give it much better acceleration than the 6 speed final it has now at 4.062.

The Sport Auto alignment should work in pcars - may need some fine tuning on damper as spring rate is a bit lower on front + rear, the measured alignment of the test car did work in real as it was driven by Horst Von Saurma at Nordschelife and Hockenheim. Hope the pcars extra weight at 1610kg vs real car at 1513kg/full tank when tested by Sport Auto will not give too much side effects :P
 
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Simfan David
Thanks. I'll watch the video now. I really want to understand tuning properly. But the more I learn, tuning is the ability to tune to your driving style. So ones tune might not work for you. Thanks for the reply bro.:gtpflag:
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These videos helped me. I had no clue in GT6... probably because PD created screwy tune setup/UI. In pCARS, I can tune each car to my style.

https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/thre...se-studies-and-part-3f-now-live.327780/unread

And this:
image.jpg


Edit: not my graph. Creator posted it on SMS forum.
 
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Simfan David
Thanks. I've actually taken what I've learned today and shaved a second+ today on a track were racing next week. I'm starting to get a feel for this. Thanks for the graph. Going to print this out and display it next to my rig. Yall rock!!
:cheers: :gtpflag:
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What are you driving at Brands next weekend?
 
OooAhh Cantona
These videos helped me. I had no clue in GT6... probably because PD created screwy tune setup/UI. In pCARS, I can tune each car to my style.

https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/thre...se-studies-and-part-3f-now-live.327780/unread

And this:
View attachment 404768

Edit: not my graph. Creator posted it on SMS forum.
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Good info. Only thing I would add to that is that I'd use aero to tune for balance on high speed corners, and suspension and tire adjustments for medium to low speed corners for the most part.
 
Johnnypenso
Good info. Only thing I would add to that is that I'd use aero to tune for balance on high speed corners, and suspension and tire adjustments for medium to low speed corners for the most part.
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Makes since! Haven't thought of it that way.
 
bleeder
There's no mention of limited slip adjustments on this graph and tweaking those settings is just as important IMO.
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Good point! Slip and brake bias are two of the settings I check first. Not my chart. I actually use it as a last resort to make adjustments I may have missed.
 
More tire questions.

I've been doing a lot of wet races lately with GT3 cars recently and the tire temps are very strange to say the least. As we know intermediate or full wets are a much softer compound than slicks so they need to run lower temps so they don't degrade after one lap. If you use wet tires on a dry track in pCars they overheat and you lose grip. However when using inters or wets in the rain the game starts them at 212 Fahrenheit. I've always known wet tires to max out temps at around 180 before they start to overheat. What's even stranger is that the soft GT3 slicks reach the heat ceiling at around 235 before they turn red. Wets go to around 245 then they turn red. Based on these temps you would think the wet tires are completely overheating and falling apart but they actually last around 20 laps before they go off, it is very noticeable when they go off. Tire temps also drop some 60-70 degrees when they are worn out, I don't know why they drop off either. So my question is are these temperature readings false on the HUD or is there something else going on within the tire model or the physics. Or are these tires just programmed to run those temperatures?

Also what about wet pressures? Usually you run a little less in the rain depending on how wet it is. Or if it's really wet sometimes a little more to prevent aqua planning. For this discussion let's use light rain with intermediates tires. The pressures don't seem to have a big affect on temperature.

Any comments or thoughts?
 
ozwheels
More tire questions.

I've been doing a lot of wet races lately with GT3 cars recently and the tire temps are very strange to say the least. As we know intermediate or full wets are a much softer compound than slicks so they need to run lower temps so they don't degrade after one lap. If you use wet tires on a dry track in pCars they overheat and you lose grip. However when using inters or wets in the rain the game starts them at 212 Fahrenheit. I've always known wet tires to max out temps at around 180 before they start to overheat. What's even stranger is that the soft GT3 slicks reach the heat ceiling at around 235 before they turn red. Wets go to around 245 then they turn red. Based on these temps you would think the wet tires are completely overheating and falling apart but they actually last around 20 laps before they go off, it is very noticeable when they go off. Tire temps also drop some 60-70 degrees when they are worn out, I don't know why they drop off either. So my question is are these temperature readings false on the HUD or is there something else going on within the tire model or the physics. Or are these tires just programmed to run those temperatures?

Also what about wet pressures? Usually you run a little less in the rain depending on how wet it is. Or if it's really wet sometimes a little more to prevent aqua planning. For this discussion let's use light rain with intermediates tires. The pressures don't seem to have a big affect on temperature.

Any comments or thoughts?
Click to expand...
Hay OZ i know you put a lot of time in this tire and tuning and if you go to the Pcars web site there are some devs that will either answer or test thoughts . There is a hole thread on tires about 18 pages and the tire devs answer and talk about

Lots of good reading with help from the search button
 
diesel97
Hay OZ i know you put a lot of time in this tire and tuning and if you go to the Pcars web site there are some devs that will either answer or test thoughts . There is a hole thread on tires about 18 pages and the tire devs answer and talk about

Lots of good reading with help from the search button
Click to expand...
Do you happen to know the thread name? I did a quick search on the official forums but didn't see anything about wet tire temps.
 
ozwheels
More tire questions.

I've been doing a lot of wet races lately with GT3 cars recently and the tire temps are very strange to say the least. As we know intermediate or full wets are a much softer compound than slicks so they need to run lower temps so they don't degrade after one lap. If you use wet tires on a dry track in pCars they overheat and you lose grip. However when using inters or wets in the rain the game starts them at 212 Fahrenheit. I've always known wet tires to max out temps at around 180 before they start to overheat. What's even stranger is that the soft GT3 slicks reach the heat ceiling at around 235 before they turn red. Wets go to around 245 then they turn red. Based on these temps you would think the wet tires are completely overheating and falling apart but they actually last around 20 laps before they go off, it is very noticeable when they go off. Tire temps also drop some 60-70 degrees when they are worn out, I don't know why they drop off either. So my question is are these temperature readings false on the HUD or is there something else going on within the tire model or the physics. Or are these tires just programmed to run those temperatures?

Also what about wet pressures? Usually you run a little less in the rain depending on how wet it is. Or if it's really wet sometimes a little more to prevent aqua planning. For this discussion let's use light rain with intermediates tires. The pressures don't seem to have a big affect on temperature.

Any comments or thoughts?
Click to expand...

"Thanks For the test
smile.png
.
The rain tires are pretty sensitive to pressures for heating. To cool those rears down in the wet on the R8 Ultra, add 3lbs or so to them. In general you'll need to add some air pressure to the wets from your dry settings. Not always across the board, but at least one end of the car (whichever is running hot). The carcass is a bit more forgiving than the slicks, so flexes more." (http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/showthread.php?27185-GOOD-INFO-INSIDE!-tyre-wear/page32)

- Doug Arnao

I've seen wets run okay in the 70 degrees C range, so I think they have a much larger operating range than the dry tires.
 
TexasTyme214
"Thanks For the test
smile.png
.
The rain tires are pretty sensitive to pressures for heating. To cool those rears down in the wet on the R8 Ultra, add 3lbs or so to them. In general you'll need to add some air pressure to the wets from your dry settings. Not always across the board, but at least one end of the car (whichever is running hot). The carcass is a bit more forgiving than the slicks, so flexes more." (http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/showthread.php?27185-GOOD-INFO-INSIDE!-tyre-wear/page32)

- Doug Arnao

I've seen wets run okay in the 70 degrees C range, so I think they have a much larger operating range than the dry tires.
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Thanks and thanks in advance for my future questions.
 
Excellent! :D The road car tires got an overhaul in 2.5, so that's also on consoles now with 3.0. Should make them feel 'a bit' more lively. :D
 
I don't know why but the cars seem harder to turn now. They don't corner as easy as they used to in 2.0 and I'm finding that I am now running off at the corner exit. I'm using a DS4 by the way.
 
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When I drive this car with front Masculin All Weather and rear Masculin Street-Medium tires the car is more tail
happy(more oversteer)than when I drive with front Masculin Street-Medium and rear Masculin All Weather tires,which is very strange :odd:
I did not test other cars.
If I understand correctly the Masculin Street-Medium have more grip than Masculin All Weather?
 
ukfan758
I don't know why but the cars seem harder to turn now. They don't corner as hard as they used to in 2.0 and I'm finding that I am now running off at the corner exit. I'm using a DS4 by the way.
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Same here. SMS did update the tire physics for road cars. Good update IMO. Immersion went up another level for me.
 
It seems as if there is something like a camber "glitch" in the game. I remember some people already discussing this in this thread but I might want to bring the issue up again as it is not fixed yet.

So what I found out is that using as little camber as possible, respectively running with the most positive camber will always bring you the best lap times. I discovered it while racing a RWD P30 LMP1 on Nürburgring GP.

Best lap time with stock camber settings (-2.4° front, -2.0° rear): 1:41.5
Best lap time with adjusted camber settings (0.0° front, 0.0° rear): 1:41.0

As you can see, there is a gain of 0.5 seconds solely due to unrealistic camber settings.

Talking about car handling: The car doesn't feel worse with the adjusted camber settings during corners. It feels different, in some way more solide and planted, but definitely not worse, maybe even better. Additionally, the speed on the straights is increased.

So with at least the same behaviour in corners and more straight line speed a better lap time is only logical - but not simply not realistic.

Are the devs even aware of this issue? I have seen practically nothing about this camber glitch on the official forum. The only discussion I read was somewhere here in this thread which is very surprising because you can actually make up a lot of time with just minor adjustments.
 
The camber thing has been brought up a few times that I have seen on the official forum but the conversation never gets much interest.

Your finding 0.5 second for a 1:40ish lap is similar to my experience. Must say though, I've described the handling as 'darty' elsewhere. Just don't feel the cornering is as natural with no and next to no camber. (Some cars can't make 0 front and rear)

I'm sure the devs must be aware of it. The TTers often mention no camber when discussing their set ups and devs often dip into those threads. It's not made the known issues thread so perhaps it's not seen as a glitch.
 
Telstar
It seems as if there is something like a camber "glitch" in the game. I remember some people already discussing this in this thread but I might want to bring the issue up again as it is not fixed yet.

So what I found out is that using as little camber as possible, respectively running with the most positive camber will always bring you the best lap times. I discovered it while racing a RWD P30 LMP1 on Nürburgring GP.

Best lap time with stock camber settings (-2.4° front, -2.0° rear): 1:41.5
Best lap time with adjusted camber settings (0.0° front, 0.0° rear): 1:41.0

As you can see, there is a gain of 0.5 seconds solely due to unrealistic camber settings.

Talking about car handling: The car doesn't feel worse with the adjusted camber settings during corners. It feels different, in some way more solide and planted, but definitely not worse, maybe even better. Additionally, the speed on the straights is increased.

So with at least the same behaviour in corners and more straight line speed a better lap time is only logical - but not simply not realistic.

Are the devs even aware of this issue? I have seen practically nothing about this camber glitch on the official forum. The only discussion I read was somewhere here in this thread which is very surprising because you can actually make up a lot of time with just minor adjustments.
Click to expand...
I started the original question on this thread about camber and what I know is it's not a bug it's just how the GT/LMP tires are designed. I run 1.5 f 0.0 r on most tracks. Camber does work as it should in the corners and on the straights actually, but what you might have noticed is that rear camber has a BIG impact on straight line speed. More than a realistic effect. It's how the tires were designed for GT/LMP. They favor more contact patch over more camber thrust, especially on the straights.
 

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